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Member Since: Dec 11, 2001
Last Visit: May 5, 2007
Contact Robert Stetler


Point Rank: # 9,809
Total Points: 24
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Robert Stetler been climbing?










Contributions


All 19 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11-)
By: Robert Stetler When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: I onsighted this route last year. My strategy was simple. I sprayed to my climbing partner that I had onsighted this route a week earlier and Jimmy Dunn was watching so I sprayed to him, too. With all that hype, it's near impossible to fall. After the onsight, I fell every time I attempted it for a year. This is one of the best pitches anywhere, including the valley. If you can't climb this, jug it. You need to get on this climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: Robert Stetler When: Feb 22, 2005

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Comments: Last I checked the "anchor" had one horrible bolt and 3 good stoppers. It can be rapped off.

I urge those who aspire to do the second pitch to try to fire it ground up, a standard rope is long enough and it feels wonderful to try. I disagree with setting belays anywhere but at the very end of a rope or at a nataral stance, neither of these cases are true with the bishop.

It's a big bad long one pitch climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Robert Stetler When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: I wonder why it's so rarely climbed?

Fun route, I plan to redpoint it once I have healed.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: Robert Stetler When: Jul 8, 2003

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Comments: I've got a question about Greyrocks, a so I'll post this question here. There is a really hard OW somewhere in Greyrocks. Apparently it is not on the rock proper but near it somewhere. I don't think it is too tall. I hear it is a [Luebben] 5.12, I have no idea on the name. I'd really love to hit that thang, is there anyone out there with route location (no climbing beta please, ignorance is bliss), I just want to find it. My email is angrywetsuit@hotmail.com Thanks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Robert Stetler When: Nov 2, 2002

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Comments: The crack is getting wider. It gets done more than my belayers sister. Anyway I think the rating is historical. It is unbelievably locker now but probably not so when this crack was more virgin. Once it becomes Incredible Fist Stack Crack it probably will have shorter lines.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface
By: Robert Stetler When: Dec 20, 2001

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Comments: As I remember it starts in fingers, it is really balancy up the start, it then goes to really good tight hands for a way (#2 friends) then it gets a little wider and gets easier. There is some cool stemming up top, not necesary but a good break. My wuss partner John, flopped all over it. This is a really good route that utterly fails to suck.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Robert Stetler When: Dec 20, 2001

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Comments: So when the route is sustained red or yellow camalots for 100 ft........you place your red at 30ft, and maybe a yellow at 70 ft so that you can bounce if you fudge it and miss your clip? Sounds like a plan to me. where do I sign up? I mean I would much rather not spend the money on those pesky little things that save my life because I'm not all about climbing but rather all about telling people how studly I am at climbing.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Fantasia (5.9)
By: Robert Stetler When: Dec 11, 2001

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Comments: Totally agree on the #7!!!!! This is another one of those famous routes credited to my earlier stage of learning to climb. I watched my friend Kevin suffer and bleed on this with nothing bigger as far as cams than a #3.5 camalot and no big bros. I think we had a set of curved hexes. But once you're in the crack your in. there's no escape.....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Robert Stetler When: Dec 11, 2001

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Comments: This was my first lead back when I didn't have a clue what I was doing (not like I do now either) and I had almost nothing for gear. So what does one do when he has no gear? Climb on my friend. I placed maybe three pieces on P1 and about 4 on P2. It's almost impossible to fall off this route so it doesn't really matter. I think it's just great fun.