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Mother #1 on the Nautilus at Vedauwoo. Rob is calm on this happy offwidth


Member Since: May 2, 2002
Last Visit: 54 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 1,152
Total Points: 544
Last Year: 30
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 297 | Routes 22 | Areas 1 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 147 | Stars 34 | Ratings 12

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Space Oddity (a.k.a. Signif... (5.12a)
By: rob.calm When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: Frank Dusl did the first ascent on August 15, 1990. No doubt in my mind. I belayed him.

rob.calm


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: rob.calm When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Vowel Movement, 5.9.

rob.calm


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Right Parallel Space (5.5)
By: rob.calm When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: The two old bolts have been replaced. Thanks to Matt Clark and the American Safe Climbers Association.

Rob.calm


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: rob.calm When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: Upper Devil's Playground has generally been interpreted to mean the area above Muscle and Fitness. For many years the crag at the end of Rt. 700N has been called “Limbo Rock” (if anyone knows of other names for this crag, please post). This crag is in Upper Devils Playground but does not constitute the entire area. I first visited Limbo in August 1995. It had been climbed on at that time since two bolted routes (OBR in the photograph of Tunnel Vision) were in place on the crag’s pro... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Midsummer Wall : The Shortest Night (5.9)
By: rob.calm When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: In view of Tom's posting, I've changed the FA information.
rob.calm


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Hard to Believe (5.10)
By: rob.calm When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Handsome: I’m glad you climbed Hard to Believe. As far as I know, you may have done the first ascent. In June of 1996, I attempted the climb assuming it was 10b as I had been told. In those days, I felt I could have gotten up any one-pitch 11a even if it involved some hanging. However, I got nowhere. Afterwards, I asked some strong climbers to try it. They said they would, but never got around to it. In Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, I gave it a tentative 10d rating (it sure wasn’t 10b) and thought ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Taco Filling (5.6)
By: rob.calm When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Hello Cor. Thanks for the posting as this is a nice route and adds to the sequence of moderate cracks on north side of John's Tower. Jim Brink and I climbed this route in July 2005 and rated it 5.6. We assumed it had been climbed before, but I haven't been able to find anyone who has climbed it earlier. We gave it a name, but I like your name better. The neat sequence is now Taco, Becker, Big House, Funhouse.
There are 4 parallel cracks to the left of a buttress at the right end of the wall. Ta... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress : Nun Buttress (5.8)
By: rob.calm When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: For decades, as I’ve climbed at Lumpy Ridge, I’ve looked at the silhouette of Nun Buttress dominating the southwest skyline and thought that’s a must-do route (see photo). Somehow, I didn’t get to climb it. The years rolled on, and I was 79 at the beginning of this summer (2010). Climbing 5.8 was OK, but the approach appeared challenging at my age. I decided if I was ever going to climb it, I’d better get it done this summer. I found a willing partner, Timt... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: rob.calm When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the information, Justin. I contacted John Hennings, and, in fact, he and his mother climbed the “Shortest Night” in 2001 and they have may toproped “What Fools”.

Rob.calm


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : Bachelor Party (5.10a)
By: rob.calm When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: The name “Bachelor Party” has already been used for a route at Vedauwoo. The route is at Valley Massif. The first ascent of this route was done by Michael Friedrichs in 1995 and can be found in a guidebook published in 2004:
Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming

Since this is a sport based on trust, and there is no evidence to contradict mdavis’ assertion of ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso Direct (5.8)
By: rob.calm When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: Another alternate for P2 is Roofed Out, which makes for a nice 2-pitch climb. Another comment on gear. One can climb up to the R of the roof getting high enough to set 0.5 Camalot in a horizontal crack that is on the L. Either finish the route from there (~5.9) or downclimb after setting the protection and climb up the L side of the roof (the usual way).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Lemmings (5.8)
By: rob.calm When: Mar 23, 2010

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Comments: There's a perfect #0.5 Camalot placement inside the crack on the left. I found a #4 Camalot didn't fit well (too small). If you want more protection than the #0.5, then bring along a #5 Camalot. Added 20 March 2011. A #2 Bigbro is better than a #5 Camalot and can even be used on the first pitch. The first roof of the 2nd pitch can be climbed from the L or to the R. An advantage coming in from the L is being able to clip the piton on West Overhang. Use a double... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Roofed Out (5.7 R)
By: rob.calm When: Mar 25, 2009

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Comments: I've found this to be a fun climb and a useful alternative in a variety of situations, e.g., an alternate 2nd pitch for Tigger keeping one away from the crowds on Wind Ridge, a 2nd pitch for Calypso Direct, and an honorable exit in case the 2nd pitch of Tagger proves a bit much.

Climb about 2/3 the way up the dihedral on the 2nd pitch of Tagger. Set some protection. Downclimb a bit and then head up and right to the overhanging roof as you pick your way along the slab. (A fall here and it's int... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Boat Rock : La Nave de los Locos (5.10c) : Photo
By: rob.calm When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Ship of Fools


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens
By: rob.calm When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: On 31 August 2007, I set a rappel station with sling and rappel ring, between "Rooster Tail" and "Cackle Crack". The good aspects are that it avoids the downclimb and trail on the east side and it cannot be used for toproping. However, the setting is not optimal as there is a more secure-looking placement about 10 ft. higher. However, we were getting out as fast as we could because of lightning. Indeed a climber rappeling from above Thimbleberry Jam at that time was shocked by electric current (... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: rob.calm When: Oct 24, 2006

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Comments: A good anchor can be setup on top by slinging one of the big, stable boulders with your climbing rope (or cordelette if so inclined). Near the top as the crack flares, there are good smears outside the flare for the L foot.

rob.calm


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.8)
By: rob.calm When: Sep 20, 2006

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Comments: Mike Duncan and I climbed the route yesterday. We added a new rappel station. First, we rappelled to the east off the slings around the big block. Then we used the rappel station at the bottom of this first rappel to rappel south (not east!) into the bushy gully (Don’t stop at an old intermediate station with ratty slings in this gully, but continue to a level stance. Then we traversed L (west) for about 15 feet on the Bookmark face, where we a fashioned a rappel station around some large flakes... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: rob.calm When: Feb 6, 2006

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Comments: «I was looking for Solar Collector a few weeks ago and [couldn't] find it. Did someone misplace the rock? Any help would be appreciated for the directionally challenged!»

«Hey Chris- The Solar Collector is a bit of a pain to find, super easy to miss while walking down the trail. If [you're walking] from the parking area below Ed's just walk past Holy Saturday, past the Land of the Rising Moon which will be up high on the right. After passing these just keep an eye out on the left side of the tr... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: rob.calm When: Jun 17, 2005

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Comments: "Yea I just picked up a copy of Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo by Heel and Toe and I noticed there was no info on rappel anchors like how far a rap is or even where they are. Does anybody know where to find out this info?"

Dear Anonymous Coward: Rappel stations are indicated by the symbol "R" in the graphics . There are dozens of them in the book! For almost all rappels, a 50m rope will suffice although a 60 m rope is required on some of the more recent rappel stations. When there is an issue with ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: rob.calm When: Oct 14, 2004

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Comments: Two guidebooks are now available for this area.

Kelman, Robert B., Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming: Climbs of the Eastern Medicine Bow National Forest, Heel and Toe Publishers, Fort Collins, 2004.

Orenczak, Zach, Fat Crack Country: Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo, Extremeangles, Laramie, 2003.

Both are available at local climbing stores/booksellers and on the web.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Rush Buick (5.7)
By: rob.calm When: Sep 15, 2004

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Comments: I climbed the route today and the slings were gone from the horn that's been used for about 20 years to rappel. Maybe just as well as the structual integrity of the horn seems [questionable]. As far I can figure, this leaves 2 ways to get off. Climb to the rappel bolts on Heart of Gold on the left (second rappel station further down). It's troublesome getting to the bolts. The second way down is to do an easy pitch to the top and then scramble to the very north end of the ridge. Makes for a long... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : The Unsaid (5.9)
By: rob.calm When: May 22, 2002

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Comments: I found the crux piece of protection to be a .75 Camalot placed low in the roof while leaning to the right off the huecos on the left wall. This protects moving up on the wall and re-entering the crack. How hard is the route if one stays in the crack all the way and avoids the left wall?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: rob.calm When: May 16, 2002

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Comments: The route goes fine with a 50 m rope (I first climbed it with a 45 m rope_no problem). I enjoy doing it as 2 pitches_better communication, no rope drag. The first belay stance is at the bolts just below the beginning of the upper dihedral. When rappelling with a single rope from the top, use these lower bolts as the second stance. Also, just before passing the roof at the start, there is a hole in the rock that can be easily slung for secure protection.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: rob.calm When: May 2, 2002

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Comments: Hi: This is an advertisement I placed in the current issue of _Rock & Ice._ Speaks for itself.

Information sought for new edition Heel and Toe - Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo, Wyoming. New routes, first ascent data, corrections, comments are solicited. Replies: Rob Kelman, 1312 Robertson St., Ft. Collins CO 80524; rkelman@hotmail.com; (970)482-0974 .

TIA for any comments, queries, kvetches.

Cheers,

RobKelman.calm 2 May 2002 10:13MDT (-6 UMT)