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Member Since: Jun 14, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 10,649
Total Points: 20
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob M been climbing?










Contributions


All 90 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 47 | Stars 22 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Reach for the Sky (5.10b)
By: Rob M When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: DEFINITELY reachy for shorter climbers. I thought it was really fun though. Absolutely have a spotter on that first clip.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Pistol Pete (5.10a)
By: Rob M When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: I think I'd put it at 10b, but I was pretty tired at that point. It was a bit heady since I'd never been on it, but man what a fun, fun route. I'd rate it as one of the best mid 10s, but Ricochet is pretty darn fun too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : The Last Stand (5.12a)
By: Rob M When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Some help folks: "90 plus rap" on the I can do it with a 60m rope and a bit of stretch, or 90 plus as in I'll be a few feet off the ground?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Six-Gun by My Side (5.10a)
By: Rob M When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Really enjoyed this route. Couple of good technical moves around second bolt. A little spicy first time, dials in quickly though on repeat.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Party in the Desert (5.10b)
By: Rob M When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Start is very polished and IMHO a 10c move, maybe d, at least with my towering 5'9" frame. A longer reach could probably get a better hand and smear the feet.

No longer a 10b folks. Will try the sidepull next time and re-evaluate.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: Rob M When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: Is it possible to get to the pinnicles right now with a high clearance two wheel vehicle?
Mid 50s tomorrow, thinking of giving it a shot....


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : ... : Knightline (5.10)
By: Rob M When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Block at roof is marked as loose with chalk X. Looks dicey....


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Only Outlaws Have Guns (5.9+)
By: Rob M When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: The flake here is VERY FLEXY. BE CAREFUL so you don't send part of it down on the belayer.

You can pinch it from below, palm out, and pull DOWN directly on it just enough to make the move. Much less stress on it than pulling outward.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Rob M When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: No worries RTM. Partly on me. I could have topped and walked off-just wasn't familiar enough with it. Classic Josh-got in my head a bit.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Burning Man (5.9)
By: Rob M When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Felt more like a low .8


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Rob M When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: The new JT guide by Miramontes has it listed as 100 feet. I thought that didn't look right, and it's not. I'd have to look at the guide again to see if there was other beta, because I only glanced at it after borrowing it from a nearby party.

That said, I got 15 feet above the last piece and yelled down to ask if I had passed the halfway mark and find that it had. I looked up and the anchors were nowhere in sight.

Down-climbed and bailed. Use a 70 or bring two ropes.

Stopped by Coyote C... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Flexercise (5.10b)
By: Rob M When: Mar 31, 2012

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Comments: Fun, fun route. Pumpy at end. Moves are not that hard. Rating is more for a sustained, pumpy finish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Sexy Grandma (5.8+)
By: Rob M When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: Lots of fun. Stem first part-don't get sucked into trying to get into crack on low section. I used a piece before first bolt since it is a long fall if you go to either side of the belay.
This is teh crux, imo.

Run out after last bolt, but really easy after that too. I put in a piece a few feet before the anchor as a feel good move.

It helps to remember to retrieve said piece so you don't have to lead it again when you are tired at the end of the day. Really smooth move.

Definitely 5.9 on... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area : Wonderstuff (5.10c)
By: Rob M When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: Pretty fun route... I'd give it a low 10c... don't get suckered to the right when you get the the short dihedral near the top...


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area : Whammy (5.10a)
By: Rob M When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: I thought it was pretty fun. Take 3 or so slings to extend some of the draws. You'll see them.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d)
By: Rob M When: Jan 26, 2012

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Comments: Awesome route-crux to me is last move.... a little pumpy at end, but not too much. a couple of good rests...


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Planet of the Apes Wall
By: Rob M When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: Beginners will pump out immediately and then get frustrated. Take them to Point Dume. Therenis some stuff on stumbling blocks that would be better for them, but then they have to make the creek traverse without falling in....


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume
By: Rob M When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: I was there today. I saw one chopped anchor but it was an old one I think. At least one lower one one was hammered down. It needed to be. DO NOT lead on these unless you have a death wish. There is a rock you can sling on the right. This is a great place for scenery and to take inexperienced climbers, but limited obviously in numbers of routes and higher grade stuff. Head to Echo or Malibu Creek for that-not far from there. Take very long slings if you decide to go to Dume..


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Shoot at Will (5.8)
By: Rob M When: Jul 29, 2010

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Comments: True--looks hard from bottom like a lot of the Pinnicles routes, but then the flakes and crimpers tend to be more forgiving once you're on them.

This is a SUPER fun route, and it is in the shade more than Claimjumper.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Claim Jumper (5.10a)
By: Rob M When: Jun 14, 2010

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Comments: I think it feels like a solid 10b. The crux is next to last bolt from top; do it fresh--it's long and winds back and forth. I'm sure its much easier once its dialed in a couple of times.