Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Yosemite Valley..


Member Since: Dec 28, 2005
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Rob Kepley


Point Rank: # 542
Total Points: 1,148
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
181 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob Kepley been climbing?










Contributions


All 911 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 184 | Page Improvements | Comments 163 | Posts 356 | Stars 112 | Ratings 90
Page 7 of 7.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Inner Space (5.11b X)
By: Rob Kepley When: Jul 2, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Back on this one again today with Joe. I was on the sharp end this time. I found myself with another case of "pastemouth" similar to last weekend on JV. Good thing you're pulling the crux with great gear near by. This climb is delicate and balancy is spots way out on marginal pro. Classic hairshow! Oh, I think the loose hold is gone.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Jules Verne (5.11b/c R)
By: Rob Kepley When: Jun 25, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: As for the legendary pitch, just take a deep breath and believe....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Rob Kepley When: Jun 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this amazing odyssey again yesterday with my bud Skip. However, this time we didn't use the standard approach up to Spectacle Lakes like most do. Instead, we continued around Ypsilon Lake in a "clockwise fashion" until you reach a talus field. Once here just follow the gully up and aim for the saddle above on the ridge. I think this way is quicker and a more direct access to the Blitzen Ridge.

We chose to climb around all four Aces on their left sides. Yes, there were some sketchy... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Rob Kepley When: Jun 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This one's a total classic. I've looked up in awe at this route for a few years now wondering if I would ever reach the level to climb it. Joe's comment above is right on. Power and ballet... I think the crux can be done in two different ways. You basically just have to figure out how to get your feet up on the narrow slippery sloped ramp from the good stance. I also agree that the fixed copperhead is just unnecessary tat. Four stars!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Rob Kepley When: Jun 15, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Trust me, about everyone uses the good edge at the lip of the top roof. Man I know I did. It's quite desperate up there.

I once linked up all three pitches together as one pitch. I called it the "Ultimate Linkup". Stanton "pumphouse" Peterson belayed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: Rob Kepley When: Jun 4, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this amazing route again yesterday. One of the best pitches in Boulder Canyon. Too bad it's not longer. Just make sure you protect the crux move before committing to it. A small BD micro nut works well in the lefthand seam and if you climb up high enough you can put in a really good #1 Camalot before executing the crux move. Four star quality!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Inner Space (5.11b X)
By: Rob Kepley When: May 28, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I followed this climb with my friend Joe yesterday. We were doing the "spice tour". What an incredible pitch! I agree with the other comments that it is BOLD, but not death defying. Yes, there are some huge runouts, but on moderate rock. Leaving the belay and traversing over to the pin on NW corner is probably the spookiest section. Besides the bolt at the start, there is no pro for quite a ways. The runout below the crux would be very spicy on the sharp end, and yes, the loose hold is st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Spice Tour (5.11 R)
By: Rob Kepley When: May 27, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: An outstanding link-up! Climbed this today with my bro Joe. I got Interceptor and Saturnalia, he sent Inner Space. Interceptor is such a classic pitch. Just keep it together, the run-out is not too bad. I followed Inner Space after this. This is one fantastic journey up the Bastille. It wasn't quite as desperate as I thought it would be. All the really big run-outs are on moderate rock. I think the spookiest part on lead would be getting over to the top of the Northwest Corner. There i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Rob Kepley When: May 26, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Just got back from Eldo this morning and climbed this route. What an outstanding pitch! Interceptor epitomizes Eldo climbing. Once you get out of the crack just keep your head in "check" until you can drape a sling over the flake. The moves are all there, just spicey. Three stars for sure. I would recommend this pitch to anyone who climbs this grade at Eldo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Three Old Farts Young at He... (5.10 R)
By: Rob Kepley When: May 7, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this yesterday with my friend Joe to reach Psycho Pigeon. We did it in two pitches. I felt it went pretty smooth doing it this way. The first pitch has some pretty long runouts, standard eldo fare. The last pitch was climbing over really cool huecos with sparse pro. I highly recommend this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Rob Kepley When: May 7, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I got on this one with my friend Joe yesterday. We climbed Three Old Farts to reach the upper ramp. This is an excellent way to reach Psycho Pigeon. Like Steve says, Psycho Pigeon is a neglected semi-classic. I thought the climbing was good and requires good route finding skills. There wasn't any chalk up there to help you find the way. It's totally worth more accents that it obviously doesn't get.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : First Strike (5.11c)
By: Rob Kepley When: Feb 27, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, I climbed this route over the weekend and I think the new guide gives it an 11b rating. I thought it felt a bit hard for the grade and tricky too. I agree on the two stars it gets also. Probably worth doing once.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Cosmic Thing (5.12b)
By: Rob Kepley When: Feb 26, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I got on this route today and I really liked it. I felt that the crux was in the section when your right hand is on the arete down near the bottom half. I had to do a pretty big lunge up to a good pocket with my left hand while pinching with my right. After this section the holds get better but the route gets a lot more overhung. Very pumpy finish! I would give it a solid 12a. Great route.


Page 7 of 7.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7