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Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...


Member Since: Feb 2, 2009
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,342
Total Points: 138
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob Gordon been climbing?










Contributions


All 553 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 43 | Posts 329 | Stars 108 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : B1 Boulder : Pink Floyd (V4)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sure you are describing ELP not Pink Floyd. Pink Floyd is further right and rarely done.

ELP is done often and there is even a very very hard low start though not sure it has gone since it broke. Starts matched on the undercling by Mona Lisa graffiti. Undercling is still fragile.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Boulder 1 : Three Pigs (V0)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Yes. The "No Pigs" holds are all still there though the start holds are worn down. And you avoid the top pinscar as well. It's not V3 though. Much harder.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Miniholland
By: Rob Gordon When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Great spot, but the gnats were out in force on a hot day. Lots of options for training if you're a beginner to intermediate. Good place to take a fairly new climber.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point
By: Rob Gordon When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Purplepineapple: I don't toprope too often, so I'm not familiar with the boy scout wall area, but it's my opinion that the bees should be kept wherever the boyscouts are climbing.

Maybe you should post under your real name if you are going to be proposing a big change like this. And only a few of the old timers actually belong to this site. Go to Boulder 1 on Tuesday and Thursday nights and ask everyone with grey hair what they think. I for one am not for glueing holds. I'm also not for messi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Premature Egg Baby (V8)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Norman Montes. The kid's coach from Rockreation Santa Monica.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Octopus's Garden (V3)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: What's the problem that starts here and traverses left up the arÍte?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Premature Egg Baby (V8)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Norm sent this today.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Canyon Boulders : Pan Cake (V4)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Was working this again the other day with some newer climbers. The sit start is V1 tops. With the mantle being the crux.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point
By: Rob Gordon When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: My buddy Callum and I shot a bunch of climbs on our Flip and iPhone this winter. Thought you guys might get a laugh or two out of it. It's not the quality filmmaking Cole's documentary will surely be. Facebook cause of music rights.

facebook.com/video/video.php?v...


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Sculpture's Crack Wall : Sculpture's Crack Traverse (V1)
By: Rob Gordon When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: The best version of the traverse IMO goes from the sit on the right through the bulge to the last hold before the tree, then back right and down into the sit again. I keep falling/slipping on the last move back into the sit, but I reckon it's probably 5.12ish.

The whole thing is pretty beta intensive and pumpy, so it's hard to rate. Don't matter much though. It's a great problem whatever the rating.

Urban Rock by Chris Owen is a pretty accurate guidebook except for a few notable breaks this ... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Boulder Opposite Pyramid
By: Rob Gordon When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: About 15 yards uphill there is a threesome of boulders with what looks to be a pretty cherry prow in the middle. Unfortunately there is a lot of vegetation underneath... If anyone chopped it out I wouldn't say anything. JK... Sort of.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Boulder Opposite Pyramid : Face Opposite Pyramid (V1-2)
By: Rob Gordon When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: Couple things... Possibly/Probably not a new route since the boulder is right on the trail and someone went through the effort to put two bolts on top. They probably went ahead and climbed the only two obvious lines.

I would also say the face is more of a gem, but in all fairness I didn't top this one out cause I was by myself and those rocks underneath and grainy foot smears weren't inspiring with how pumped I was at the time.

And for anyone looking for the boulder, it doesn't actually ha... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Photo
By: Rob Gordon When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: Cool pic. Want to get up there this summer.


Location: Rob Gordon : Stoney : Photo
By: Rob Gordon When: Mar 7, 2011

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Comments: If you do, you can count on the problems feeling brand new. We've had a lot of breakage this year with the rains and colder weather.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Canyon Boulders : Scorpion (V3)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: Okay. I actually think it's a better problem now. Needs to be cleaned. But the new beta is pretty wicked. Used a crimp out high right. V3 I think...


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Turlock : Crowd Pleaser (V2)
By: Rob Gordon When: Dec 11, 2010

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Comments: Resent today. Footwork is a bit more technical. Could use a brush. The knob has to be crowned and liebacked more. Maybe gets V3 now. Delicate.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Turlock : Crowd Pleaser (V2)
By: Rob Gordon When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: I noticed that yesterday too Tristan. Not only did a hold break... I'm pretty sure it's the bomber foot you rock over on. Whoever broke it probably took a good fall. I think the right hand knob looks like it might have lost a bit too.

On the bright side it's a whole new problem to send!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Photo
By: Rob Gordon When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: I'd be interested to hear what happened if someone gets the full story.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: Rob Gordon When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Can someone post a topo maybe? The descriptions leave something to be desired... (would be nice if the problems were grouped by boulder or all had a picture). Thanks dudes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Smooth Criminal (V6)
By: Rob Gordon When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Haven't linked the whole thing yet (gassed on the upper easy portion 3 times after working the start for a couple hours in a miserably cold wind), but I think V6 is by no means a soft rating. That being said, V7 seems high for something I was able to work in one session. I found a heel toe to work better for me than a toe hook. Can't wait to get back to SB and send this wicked problem.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Canyon Boulders : Scrambled Eggs (V3)
By: Rob Gordon When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: Checked it out today. I stuck with the original line and used the broken flake as an intermediate to get my right foot up on the good foot under the start hold. Pretty cool move and I would say it is consistent with the grade. May even be a better line than before.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Sculpture's Crack Wall : Sculpture's Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Rob Gordon When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: There was a time when practicing aid and trad techniques at Stoney may have made sense. However I believe that time has passed. One of the main reasons cams and stoppers were invented was to minimize the impact on the rock.

Stoney deserves respect. Don't let the graffiti and trash fool you into thinking it's just some crappy training crag in the valley. We are lucky to have so many awesome problems so close to home.

I'm perfectly okay with being called a jerk if it helps keep Stoney from c... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Road Side Rock : Photo
By: Rob Gordon When: Feb 1, 2010

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Comments: Sweet. I just couldn't imagine Bachar would miss that line - it being so close to the road. Looks like his sort of thing. Can't wait to get on it at some point if I ever actually buy a rope... does the TR protect the overhung section or is it basically a boulder problem till the face? Any luck on Daniel Day Lewis?

Let us know about the documentary. Sounds cool.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Hot Tuna Buttress : Photo
By: Rob Gordon When: Feb 1, 2010

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Comments: Rick, from what I gather on your profile, your time might be better spent learning to climb than being an asshole. Chris is just trying to keep information on the site accurate. You should thank him for his valuable work on the book. Without it, I would never have found such classics as the Cave problem, Corn, or Pocket Traverse.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Eat Out More Often (aka Pow... : Standard Route (V2)
By: Rob Gordon When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: Looks like there is a pretty tough sit start that goes on this problem.


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