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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Tango Towers : Crawford's Corner (5.10+ PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 1/2" SS ASCA bolts w/ links were installed on the top of the second pitch.
This route is adventurous and the rock quality is questionable at times on the 2nd pitch... Use caution! I believe the story was erased on here, but a couple local climbers had some serious rockfall w/ a cut rope.
1st pitch: This was the most obvious line to get to the base of the climb w/ the least amount of crunchy rock. We tried to make it a lil less bushy, but it's still bushy. Climb 4th class shenanigans until y... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Cold Front (5.12b)
By: Rob Fielding When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like a good line, lets see some pics!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has recently been replaced. Another classic Urisote route which has lost sight because of the old quarter inch bolts. The two 11 corners are fantastic, exposed, and technical on excellent rock.
When I spoke with Joanne, she was adamant about 1 to 1 replacement referring to this route as "her baby." Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time or will power to replace every bolt on this route. We did our best to choose the bolts that were not able to protect w/ natural gear first.
This ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor has been restored a top of pitch 2. A 1/2" SS 5 piece ASCA bolt was installed near the previous bolt which had came out. The old hole was patched. We weren't able to get the wedged nut out, but it is somewhat hidden. Enjoy!
Also, there is now a optional rap descent off of Time's Up (Anchors replaced) if The Nightcrawler is a little busy. The route can easily be rapped with a 70m and possibly even a 60m. I'd stay on belay while traversing over to the times up anchors.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: AST,
I agree that the first pitch is probably not 11c compared to some other routes at RR. All routes are very subjective on one's own style, I actually thought the upper section was a little soft. In any matter, i'm glad you enjoyed the route as much as I did!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : All You Can Eat (5.10d)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first two pitches are incredible! I'd recommend linking the two pitches together for one spectacular pitch. Also, on the second pitch i'd belay at the first set of anchors you come across because the rock deteriorates near the top.
I thought the variation to the right was at the same grade as the original 5.10c/d. The variation takes at least a #6 or maybe a big bro near the start, but liebacking up to the #3 section felt secure. Jump on this thing!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Jupiter II (5.11c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Tim! I attempted the second pitch a few times and just couldn't make that transition into the corner. A very bouldery/intricate section. The corner looks amazing.
The first pitch can be rapped w 70 w a 10 feet of easy 5th class downclimbing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was his "reach" until I saw his mustache flapping like a bird... Cheater!
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should have brought my boots. Every step was "squish squish." Lol
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route, great day. Like others have said, the start is very well protected w/ modern gear (c3's, tcu's). A great lead for the beginning 10+ climber as the crux protects very well w/ gear and everything else is 5.8/9 climbing. Get on it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^^^
That's pretty funny! Perfect explanation for the approach, didn't want to sound like a baby, but I thought the exact same thing!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a good pitch!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd compare the 5.8+ to the Venturi effect or a eldo 5.6. :)
Single Rack to 5" w/ doubles in 1,2,3 and rp's should do you well. The overall rock quality is great except for the last pitch, but it's bolted so not a huge deal.
The 5.8+ pitch protects well w/ smaller gear... Black alien, RP's, or Ball nuts seem to do well. Felt more technical than burly.
Most Herbst routes feel one grade harder than your average RR moderate... It's all about which FA'er put up the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : Desert Solitude (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seriously, that looks MmMmMmMm good.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We replaced those bolts last season 1 to 1, but didn't have time to remove the last one... Will b heading back to finish that as well as first pitch of ds of t. Cheers!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, you a baller!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Blood on the Tracks (5.9)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jumped on this thing yesterday, was excited to climb it ever since ya'll posted it up. I thought the route route was enjoyable, adventurous, stout, and bold. It's committing nature is was really brought me in, all natural belays. Retreat from any point would be somewhat difficult unless you want to leave gear. Far from a classic, but something a local in the area might want to jump on. I think the route will get better as it cleans up, but still is very fragile in a lot of areas.
As far as a ra... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot less like Red Rock and a lot more like Indian Creek.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Line.
1st pitch: A little runout, but on very easy terrain. Bring some extra gear for the anchor: 1-4"
2nd pitch: Climb on the left side on good, but fragile holds to the 1st smc bolt (5.9ish w/ no gear, but great feet), continue up the bulge clipping the next few bolts and placing some gear if you feel like it (0.3"-0.5" & 1" right above bolt), once past the initial 4-5 bolts, you're in the clear as long as you can withstand the pump. Save a 1" for the top after passing the last bolt an... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route 3, maybe 4 times? It never gets old...
This route and nightcrawler compete for my favorite "well protected" 10 in the park. Like people have said above, #3's are key, i'd bring 3-4.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing/rock on this route are phenomenal.
Primarily 5.10 climbing, w/ a few moves of 5.11 that could be easily a0'd. Good one to push the grade on... It would be nice to have another anchor on top of pitch 4, we ended up just rapping off the last bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rack: double to 2. Single to 3, 4, 5.
2nd pitch: step slightly left and up the face w intermittent crack systems. Stay in right facing corner aiming for the slot. This pitch is 180ft. Belay next to tree n then traverse down to anchors once Ya bring your partner up.
Doubles are a excellent choice for reducing rope drag on p4
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbagged. I'd give it a solid 5.10+. Amazing route!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! First pitch is pretty burly, and I was just following it. The bolts need replacement on the first pitch so be very careful. Bring some small gear including rps.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Rob Fielding When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For Spring/Summer, the first 4 pitches don't get shaded until afternoon, maybe a little earlier.
Finally topped out on the route, wouldn't recommend the entire route for hotter Vegas days, you'll be baking in the sun on all the pitches and wishing you were in an ice bath.
The route is worth while to the top, lots of great pitches, you won't be dissapointed, the final 2 pitches have some shatty rock, you might want to stay roped up. As of 06/12, the South Pine Creek descent is very well cairned... more >>
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