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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should have brought my boots. Every step was "squish squish." Lol
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route, great day. Like others have said, the start is very well protected w/ modern gear (c3's, tcu's). A great lead for the beginning 10+ climber as the crux protects very well w/ gear and everything else is 5.8/9 climbing. Get on it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^^^
That's pretty funny! Perfect explanation for the approach, didn't want to sound like a baby, but I thought the exact same thing!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a good pitch!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd compare the 5.8+ to the Venturi effect or a eldo 5.6. :)
Single Rack to 5" w/ doubles in 1,2,3 and rp's should do you well. The overall rock quality is great except for the last pitch, but it's bolted so not a huge deal.
The 5.8+ pitch protects well w/ smaller gear... Black alien, RP's, or Ball nuts seem to do well. Felt more technical than burly.
Most Herbst routes feel one grade harder than your average RR moderate... It's all about which FA'er put up the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : Desert Solitude (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seriously, that looks MmMmMmMm good.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We replaced those bolts last season 1 to 1, but didn't have time to remove the last one... Will b heading back to finish that as well as first pitch of ds of t. Cheers!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, you a baller!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Blood on the Tracks (5.9)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jumped on this thing yesterday, was excited to climb it ever since ya'll posted it up. I thought the route route was enjoyable, adventurous, stout, and bold. It's committing nature is was really brought me in, all natural belays. Retreat from any point would be somewhat difficult unless you want to leave gear. Far from a classic, but something a local in the area might want to jump on. I think the route will get better as it cleans up, but still is very fragile in a lot of areas.
As far as a ra... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot less like Red Rock and a lot more like Indian Creek.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Line.
1st pitch: A little runout, but on very easy terrain. Bring some extra gear for the anchor: 1-4"
2nd pitch: Climb on the left side on good, but fragile holds to the 1st smc bolt (5.9ish w/ no gear, but great feet), continue up the bulge clipping the next few bolts and placing some gear if you feel like it (0.3"-0.5" & 1" right above bolt), once past the initial 4-5 bolts, you're in the clear as long as you can withstand the pump. Save a 1" for the top after passing the last bolt an... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route 3, maybe 4 times? It never gets old...
This route and nightcrawler compete for my favorite "well protected" 10 in the park. Like people have said above, #3's are key, i'd bring 3-4.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing/rock on this route are phenomenal.
Primarily 5.10 climbing, w/ a few moves of 5.11 that could be easily a0'd. Good one to push the grade on... It would be nice to have another anchor on top of pitch 4, we ended up just rapping off the last bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rack: double to 2. Single to 3, 4, 5.
2nd pitch: step slightly left and up the face w intermittent crack systems. Stay in right facing corner aiming for the slot. This pitch is 180ft. Belay next to tree n then traverse down to anchors once Ya bring your partner up.
Doubles are a excellent choice for reducing rope drag on p4
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbagged. I'd give it a solid 5.10+. Amazing route!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! First pitch is pretty burly, and I was just following it. The bolts need replacement on the first pitch so be very careful. Bring some small gear including rps.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Rob Fielding When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For Spring/Summer, the first 4 pitches don't get shaded until afternoon, maybe a little earlier.
Finally topped out on the route, wouldn't recommend the entire route for hotter Vegas days, you'll be baking in the sun on all the pitches and wishing you were in an ice bath.
The route is worth while to the top, lots of great pitches, you won't be dissapointed, the final 2 pitches have some shatty rock, you might want to stay roped up. As of 06/12, the South Pine Creek descent is very well cairned... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Rob Fielding When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have to agree w/ Peter.
Phenomenal route for the grade. Did pitches 1-10. The climb is very well protected w/ lots of variable climbing. Half ropes are a great option as there is a bit of wandering on the route, especially on pitch 4.
We brought single rack to 4", with doubles from 0.5-2" and were comfortable.
Like many others have said, w/ modern technology it would be great to see some of the bolts dissipate, but I don't think it takes away from the climb.
Have fun!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : Red Skies (5.11+ PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: May 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Always enjoyable to see the old school climbers tearing it up back in the day. Ground up, bold, and Beautiful. Not to be taken lightly.
The first bolt is 30-40 feet up. Marginal gear to that point. RP's and a 0.5-1" in a flaring crack that might hold. The moves getting to the 1st bolt are in the 11- range.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, go jump on this thing! It's not a classic, comparing other 10's in Red Rocks w/ amazing rock consistently through like the nightcrawler or triassic sands, but it's a worth while climb. 3rd pitch is 4 stars.
There is some not so great rock in a few sections of the climb, like others have said on pitches two and four, but it's only a few short patches.
I can't imagine calling this 5.10+, even for RR standards. The crux is short, well protected, and fun. I did a mixture of face climb... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Cactus Connection (5.11b)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That line looks rad, nice work!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: These routes on challenger wall were put up by the local hardmen in the 80's looking to make a statement. Bold/stout routes. Ground up w/ strict ethics and minimal bolts.
1st and 2nd pitches are well protected, but hard.
3rd and 4th pitches are head ups, and harder than the grades suggest. I thought the orginal line on the 4th pitch was the hardest and the 3rd pitch roof pull the most heads up pitch for the day. If you blow the roof, you'll probably bust your ankles...
For a rack i'd suggest ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route.
I thought the approach was awesome w/ pretty scenic views, but definately not 1hr 10 minutes, try 90min to 2 hrs. And I just recently did the approach to res arete in 80 minutes.
1st pitch - 8 bolts, No gear needed.
2nd pitch- Sustained and awesome. Bring the rack. Don't forget the RP's, thought that it was pretty heads up. After clipping the last bolt on the pitch, you traverse left into a a crack/flake system, maybe I was to far above the bolt, but it was definately an awkward... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great. We combined it w/ Res for an easier way to top out on Wilson. The approach as of 3/27 is very well cairened, it would be hard to get lost. They're every 10 ft.
This route goes fast, especially if you bring a 70m. Combine pitches 1&2, 4&5, 9&10, 11&12. The guidebook is conservative w/ the rope lengths, we combined 4&5 w/ 20 ft left.
Crux pitches are 1 & 2, after that it's pretty smooth sailing. The 1st pitch has a heinous quarter incher that needs replacement. Pitches 9-12... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Oak Creek Canyon : Coltrane (5.9 R)
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this route was great, reminds me of a tuolumne style slab climb w/ some pretty spaced bolts. Be prepared for a long hike out for the first time, as the approach is confusing.
For a rack, i'd suggest single rack to 2", an efficient party could go w/ much less, the emphasis is really on bringing the smaller gear to supplement the bolts on the first two pitches.... ya don't need much. I'd also suggest bringing half/double ropes for the last pitch.
The 1st pitch is the crux, after clipping... more >>
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