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Member Since: Sep 20, 2003
Last Visit: Aug 17, 2014
Contact Rob Eison


Point Rank: # 2,265
Total Points: 238
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob Eison been climbing?










Contributions


All 130 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 30 | Stars 27 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : The VC
By: Rob Eison When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Coming up from Denver next week and looking for a partner at the VC Monday the 7th thru Wednesday the 9th. Pm me at rceisonmd@gmail if interested.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Rob Eison When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Tank and Elliott are correct in their grade assessment. The rest features to the right between bolts 9 and 11 lower the difficulty by at least a letter grade. The stem out right before the upper crux makes sense, but I'd be wary of the jugs being used below to the right between bolts 9 and 10. This is a surfboard size feature of dubious integrity, hollow and fractured in places with some flex on the lower right panel. Remember that Matt and Ted did not clean this band of rock, thus use it at you... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: A pile of quickdraws and a daisy chain have been under Hangman for the past few weeks. I have them now. So if they're yours, pm and me and describe them and I'll get them back to you.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Hangman (5.12b)
By: Rob Eison When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: A pile of quickdraws and a daisy chain have been under Hangman for the past few weeks. I have them now. So if they're yours, pm and me and describe them and I'll get them back to you.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Problem Child (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments:
  • *Bolt head and hanger came off the next to last bolt at some point this past week and needs to be replaced. This is the bolt that takes all the whippers from the upper crux. I left the quickdraw and hanger at the base of the climb as I won't be back to Primo for another week or so to fix it.



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Goin' The Distance (5.12d)
By: Rob Eison When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: And coming from Matt Lloyd, that is a HUGE deterrent!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: Rob Eison When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Guilty as charged on all counts! I succumbed to the brainwashing as well. I bet Russ is still grumbling about the foot chip...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: Excellent points of course. Those risks should be obvious even for the not-so-seasoned and I certainly agree. The unfortunate reality at Primo is that, for the 3 years since I moved back to Denver, draws have been a fairly permanent fixture on Sucking, Public Solitude, Ahine, Primeval, even Flying Cowboys. The New River Wall suffers simlarly. I don't know when the paradigm shifted, but this wasn't the case when I first started climbing here a decade ago. Sucking now has Climbtech steel permadraw... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: It's been going on since the spring and at least one person's been caught by Jay Samuelson already. Although I'm not generally an advocate of permadraws all over crags, this is getting ridiculous. If you leave any draws on the first 2 bolts on any of these routes, expect them to be pilfered in a week. I've accidentally forgotten to pull mine off the lower part of Shine when I've been in a hurry and a week later...Gone!

If there's a consensus in the community to permadraw the classics here, I'l... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Star Wall : Slim Pickens (5.12c)
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Interesting. I climbed up there for 5-6 years with some longtime locals and everybody had it wrong I guess. Even the Carville guide has it wrong then.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the clarifications guys. Was Harrison's FA on gear or TR? I didn't think to ask him when I met him up there a few years back. Pretty amazing if it was on gear because it's really heady and quite runout at the beginning and after the crux. I knew Josh had led it on gear around the same time as Nico but I'd forgotten his last name when I posted this. Sorry Josh.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Grim Aura (5.13+)
By: Rob Eison When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: Nice work, Matt! Haven't heard anyone else send this after the crux hold broke. I agree it probably warrants 14a now. I'm not sure I could do it now without the tooth. What remains doesn't really qualify as a hold and the alternative moves require an impressive wingspan, unfortunately one of my deficiencies. Congrats!


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Jailhouse Rock : Jailbait (5.13c)
By: Rob Eison When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: The thermos, the anvil, the ice cream cone...Too many to keep straight! I was gonna post Slammer as well but I think I've managed to scare everyone off it with my epic failures. Finally put it away this season thank god! Cheers!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Interposse Wiledrunner?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: Definitely has been discussed. Just one additional bolt and you have 2 new variations. I like the sound of Interstellar Impossible personally....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: Right on, Jay. Best 5.13 in the canyon and possibly in the Front Range. Love, NOT like, this route!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: Believe me, the pleasure is all mine!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Interstellar Overdrive (5.13d)
By: Rob Eison When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: When Jay and I last worked on the first half of M.I. in the fall, it was starting to clean up nicely. I think ultimately the rock quality will be better than I.O., and we should be able to avoid any of the reinforcement you see on the latter. I think the first half of M.I. probably climbs at mid to hard 5.13 and involves some temp-dependent sloper cruxes. Would you agree, Jay?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: A truly inspiring line with devious and powerful sequences so far, guys. It's gonna be a labor of love seducing this one....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: The upper rope sheath on the tyrolean has frayed and needs to be replaced. The lower rope is still intact, so the tyrolean is still functional, but it has become much more difficult to pull across because of the tattered sheath. I have plenty of cord to donate but not really the time to replace it right now. Any takers?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Problem Child (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: Nice work, Kevin. I was certain you would put it away when I saw you on it Saturday. Hey Jay, I also saw Steve Damboise send it in the spring in impressive fashion on his second attempt, so looks like Problem Child is beginning to get some of the punishment it deserves!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Apocalypse '91 (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: The low crux between the 5th and 6th bolts isn't too bad once you commit to the high right knee bar. The technical crux was definitely the last 10 feet of climbing right before the extension anchors. 2 left knee scums on the upper third of the route before this last push help to bleed it back. Skip the first anchors entirely as it's otherwise well-protected around that section and the first anchor clip is awkwardly positioned and energy-sapping. Incredible route and hard for the grade with the e... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c)
By: Rob Eison When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: I predict this will be the new king line of Clear Creek. Time to start training, people, because this one has holds and will go down! The Front Range is lucky to have your vision and motivation for putting up new routes. A beautiful line, Jay!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Grim Aura (5.13+)
By: Rob Eison When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Now that I'm quite intimate with this brilliant climb, here's a more thorough description: shoot up to the third bolt on Primeval, then traverse left to the slanting jug on Shine, clipping 3 bolts along the way including the high long draw. Do the V7, core-dependent first crux of Shine, then up and a little left to the good crimp flake and clip above. Blow off the next draw only 3 feet above this tenuous rest(not worth the effort), take a deep breath and coil up for the tricky V8, length-depende... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Quartz Sports (5.12b)
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: Right there with you, Monty. Did this again yesterday for the first time in 8 years and had forgotten what a brilliant, cerebral line this is. Needs patience, precision, then a burst of power at the end.


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