Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Sep 20, 2003
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Rob Eison


Point Rank: # 2,179
Total Points: 233
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Rob Eison been climbing?










Contributions


All (121) | Routes (10) | Areas | Photos (22) | Comments (23) | Posts (28) | Stars (26) | Ratings (12)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Goin' The Distance (5.12d)
By: Rob Eison When: Aug 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: And coming from Matt Lloyd, that is a HUGE deterrent!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: Rob Eison When: Dec 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Guilty as charged on all counts! I succumbed to the brainwashing as well. I bet Russ is still grumbling about the foot chip...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: Oct 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent points of course. Those risks should be obvious even for the not-so-seasoned and I certainly agree. The unfortunate reality at Primo is that, for the 3 years since I moved back to Denver, draws have been a fairly permanent fixture on Sucking, Public Solitude, Ahine, Primeval, even Flying Cowboys. The New River Wall suffers simlarly. I don't know when the paradigm shifted, but this wasn't the case when I first started climbing here a decade ago. Sucking now has Climbtech steel permadraw... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: Oct 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It's been going on since the spring and at least one person's been caught by Jay Samuelson already. Although I'm not generally an advocate of permadraws all over crags, this is getting ridiculous. If you leave any draws on the first 2 bolts on any of these routes, expect them to be pilfered in a week. I've accidentally forgotten to pull mine off the lower part of Shine when I've been in a hurry and a week later...Gone!

If there's a consensus in the community to permadraw the classics here, I'l... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Star Wall : Slim Pickens (5.12c)
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting. I climbed up there for 5-6 years with some longtime locals and everybody had it wrong I guess. Even the Carville guide has it wrong then.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the clarifications guys. Was Harrison's FA on gear or TR? I didn't think to ask him when I met him up there a few years back. Pretty amazing if it was on gear because it's really heady and quite runout at the beginning and after the crux. I knew Josh had led it on gear around the same time as Nico but I'd forgotten his last name when I posted this. Sorry Josh.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Grim Aura (5.13+)
By: Rob Eison When: May 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work, Matt! Haven't heard anyone else send this after the crux hold broke. I agree it probably warrants 14a now. I'm not sure I could do it now without the tooth. What remains doesn't really qualify as a hold and the alternative moves require an impressive wingspan, unfortunately one of my deficiencies. Congrats!


Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Jailhouse Rock : Jailbait (5.13c)
By: Rob Eison When: May 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The thermos, the anvil, the ice cream cone...Too many to keep straight! I was gonna post Slammer as well but I think I've managed to scare everyone off it with my epic failures. Finally put it away this season thank god! Cheers!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: May 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Interposse Wiledrunner?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: May 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely has been discussed. Just one additional bolt and you have 2 new variations. I like the sound of Interstellar Impossible personally....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Right on, Jay. Best 5.13 in the canyon and possibly in the Front Range. Love, NOT like, this route!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Believe me, the pleasure is all mine!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Interstellar Overdrive (5.13d)
By: Rob Eison When: Feb 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: When Jay and I last worked on the first half of M.I. in the fall, it was starting to clean up nicely. I think ultimately the rock quality will be better than I.O., and we should be able to avoid any of the reinforcement you see on the latter. I think the first half of M.I. probably climbs at mid to hard 5.13 and involves some temp-dependent sloper cruxes. Would you agree, Jay?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Rob Eison When: Dec 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A truly inspiring line with devious and powerful sequences so far, guys. It's gonna be a labor of love seducing this one....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The upper rope sheath on the tyrolean has frayed and needs to be replaced. The lower rope is still intact, so the tyrolean is still functional, but it has become much more difficult to pull across because of the tattered sheath. I have plenty of cord to donate but not really the time to replace it right now. Any takers?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Problem Child (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work, Kevin. I was certain you would put it away when I saw you on it Saturday. Hey Jay, I also saw Steve Damboise send it in the spring in impressive fashion on his second attempt, so looks like Problem Child is beginning to get some of the punishment it deserves!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Apocalypse '91 (5.13b)
By: Rob Eison When: Jul 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The low crux between the 5th and 6th bolts isn't too bad once you commit to the high right knee bar. The technical crux was definitely the last 10 feet of climbing right before the extension anchors. 2 left knee scums on the upper third of the route before this last push help to bleed it back. Skip the first anchors entirely as it's otherwise well-protected around that section and the first anchor clip is awkwardly positioned and energy-sapping. Incredible route and hard for the grade with the e... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c)
By: Rob Eison When: Jun 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I predict this will be the new king line of Clear Creek. Time to start training, people, because this one has holds and will go down! The Front Range is lucky to have your vision and motivation for putting up new routes. A beautiful line, Jay!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Grim Aura (5.13+)
By: Rob Eison When: Jun 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Now that I'm quite intimate with this brilliant climb, here's a more thorough description: shoot up to the third bolt on Primeval, then traverse left to the slanting jug on Shine, clipping 3 bolts along the way including the high long draw. Do the V7, core-dependent first crux of Shine, then up and a little left to the good crimp flake and clip above. Blow off the next draw only 3 feet above this tenuous rest(not worth the effort), take a deep breath and coil up for the tricky V8, length-depende... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Quartz Sports (5.12b)
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Right there with you, Monty. Did this again yesterday for the first time in 8 years and had forgotten what a brilliant, cerebral line this is. Needs patience, precision, then a burst of power at the end.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Crystallize (5.12c)
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I thought I would give this a go today but was quite disappointed with the poor quality of climbing. Perhaps it just doesn't get enough traffic to clean up well, but through the first 3 bolts was an unpleasant exercise in avoiding chossy, flaky, cookie crumbs, potato chips, and potentially fragile plates. Staying right as described by Richard meant trusting sketchy blocks and hoping for the best, going left and tackling the parallel seams from the 3rd to the 5th bolts was actually an interesting... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Play (5.13c)
By: Rob Eison When: Mar 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I did both Public Solitude and Squeeze Play just over a year ago, and I nearly sent Public Play in one day's effort yesterday. I'm certainly no stronger this year due to a succession of irritating injuries.
Public Solitude took me the longest, but I think all three of these routes are equivalent in difficulty at 13b. 4th and 5th clips are a little sporty as you move right through the Public Solitude crux into Squeeze Play but stable when you commit to the moves.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Mayhem Cove
By: Rob Eison When: Sep 20, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Curious about Cajun Hell at Mayhem Cove. I've started working the second pitch, what I think is the 5.12c Drinkin White Lightnin'. It looks like it runs along a thin diagonal seam left of the hanging belay on the headwall above the cave but there's also a line straight up and/or up to the right. Anybody got info or beta tips?