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Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Imagínate (5.10)
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed close enough for me.
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Climber Access Threatened a...
By: Rob Dillon When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I appreciate that people fought and died up there for a few days 140 years ago, but the present reality is that people who like to climb rocks have represented a high percentage of folks who visit Sunset for the past 25 years. When does their experience count for something in NPS World?
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Stone Wave (5.11a/b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would offer a different opinion. It took me a couple of years to sack up and press out that starting move, and I'm pretty sure I pulled up the rack after I stood up. This was not my first-ever .11a, so I felt safe in asserting that the move was harder than that. Of course, no move in the first 10 feet counts towards the route's grade, so call it what you like.
The rest is straightforward fingers.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Mar 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't get it, where's the line?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Mar 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yeah, the roof. I guess I must have blocked that part out. NTB since the gear is relatively trustworthy and close by, and great exposure. At least it's not a slimy, polished snowmelt-covered no-pro slab like what you do to get up to it.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Mar 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I 'bout dislocated my hip dragging a stem out there as far as I could manage, and then some. That undercling is too burly for the likes of me.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Indecent exposure (5.11c)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, what Coz said. Sooner or later I'll get back there and enjoy the work y'all did getting those in.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Shock Treatment (5.12+)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome. Thanks for all the work and letting us know about it!
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Cota Coca (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traffic of the less careful sort might actually make it dirtier...
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Restless Pedestrian (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The restless pedestrian in this case was Rob Robinson, who free-soloed the FA.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're chasing the shade, this is one of the T-Wall's few right-facing corners at the 5.10 grade.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : BLM Monticello Public Comme...
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.suwa.org/site/PageServer?pagename=work_monticellormp
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Weak Become Heroes (V10)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's your name, where you from, and what're you on?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : BLM Monticello Public Comme...
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: THIS IS IMPORTANT!
IT'S TIME TO INTRODUCE THE IDEA THAT MAYBE WE DON'T HAVE A GOD-GIVEN RIGHT TO RIP IT UP ON OUR TOYS ANYPLACE ONTHE PLANET.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Myth of the Spastics (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rob Dillon When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm curious if anyone else has ever climbed this thing. FA(?) Rob Dillon and Brandon Mack, late '90's. Watford didn't know of anyone who'd done it, at least.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Dirt Bag (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In some circles the name is actually a term of respect.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : A Tension Span (5.9)
By: Rob Dillon When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to be clear, A Tension Span begins on a right-facing, left-leaning ramp about 15' right of the corner which it eventually joins. The crack at the top tends to focus the otherwise distracted. Good training for the Fishers if you're looking to head out that way.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Squatter's Rites (5.10d)
By: Rob Dillon When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sort of a one-move wonder, but I squatted a long time at that move! Mostly easy climbing except for that roof. I'd give this one one star on the 3-star scale: worth doing, but not over and over again.
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : ... : The Best Route In Minnesota (5.11a)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually this is a Skinner route. Brady's is next door: the Half-Pipe Dream. Current status of fixed pro is unknown to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wait, the small cam...middle lobes up or down?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Closed Course (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go ahead and climb up to the old hex or whatever it was and take care of it. Thanks!
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Dinkus Dog (5.10-)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One time I was at the Glass and kept finding shiny bail gear with a particular marking- black electrical tape. At the belay 'brow on Dinkus Dog-a keyhole slot a couple feet wide that would take just about any nut on the rack in bomber fashion- the bailers had apparently rapped off a small TCU, crammed over in the pinched-off left corner of the eyebrow. It looked like an A3 placement at best. Next to this, of course, was the kind of no-brainer slot at which any gumby with half a brain could me... more >>
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : S. D. Modiano (5.9)
By: Rob Dillon When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's that name about, anyhow?
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Location: CO : New Hard Line on Mt Evans i...
By: Rob Dillon When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Back to Earth ascends a granite buttress down-valley from the Black Wall on Evans."
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Between The Sheets (5.11b) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Sep 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Next time make her lead it, she's harder than she lets on!
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