Contributed Comments |
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Art (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard to walk past the perfect warmup...
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Open Boat Whalers (5.10a/b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: [Is it even that tall? ]
You heard it from the man himself, folks. Stitch it up!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : North America Wall (5.8 C3)
By: Rob Dillon When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route's reputation for loose rock is a bit behind the times. You can find it, but the only time I felt like there was loose stuff of consequence was when we were dragging our bags across the bottom of the Cyclops' Eye with a party 1500' below. The adventuresome feel comes more from the wandering line and frequent switching between free and aid climbing amidst the vast architecture of the North America feature. And from the detritus of 40+ years of ascents- there's some funky old stuff up... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this picture has been taken from the Random House Online Dictionary entry for "Classic".
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Ruth Gorge Suddenly Sprouts Trees"
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That mountain looks so sheer. Where are the grips?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Incredible Butt Crack (5.12-) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Golly, how come nobody ever climbed THAT before?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Bircheff-Williams (5.11b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It doesn't have to be 'fun', to be fun, right?
What was truly not that great was watching Mama Bear introducing her cub to the joy of pack-raiding at the base as we sorted helplessly through our tangled rap lines. Probably best to hang your gear a few pieces up on the off chance you've ever kept food in there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, but think of the glory!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Bircheff-Williams (5.11b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11b: all-time sandbag.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Direct North Buttress (DNB) (5.10b)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consider climbing the North Buttress (using George's excellent description!) to familiarize yourself with the Kat Walk descent if you're at all uncertain of your ability to complete this route in daylight- that one goes a lot faster. With climbers above, I wouldn't hang out at the base of Middle Rock in the evening if you paid me...that sh#t is loose!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Ho Chi Minh Trail (5.10c)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That two-move sequence is scarcely 'trivial'!
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Location: SD : Bone Collector : Low Side : A certain slant of light : A certain slant of light (V0-1)
By: Rob Dillon When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Emily?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Whizz Domes : North Whizz Dome : Handbook (5.11a)
By: Rob Dillon When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really dug this one- definitely worth seeking out.
Perhaps the first ascentionists would be amenable to moving their (strangely placed mid-pitch) anchor to the top of the corner...it doesn't make any sense where it is, and the topout is nothing special.
Pro is abundant throughout the corner.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : The Yawn (5.9)
By: Rob Dillon When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bunch of big nuts would really keep your rack light and bomber on this routes' knobby, convergent flakes. Hardly any small ones, though.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End
By: Rob Dillon When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben, last time I saw you you was buck nekkid on toppa that thing!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: So at one time, someone's thoughts went something like
'boy, those 5 bolts look pretty sketchy...I better add a sixth."
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good from far....
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if that's ever been repeated....
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had the beta I got for this route included the possibility of bringing a #4 Camalot for this section, I would have found it much less memorable. As it was, the climbing was extremely stimulating, way over that last lonely piece.
Forget what I just said.
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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: [Cam, that's a very informative piece. I read it after I wrote the comments below, which would have been better informed had I read your words first. This page would be well served to have the relevant excerpts posted on the access section, and perhaps the whole piece down here in the comments]
I think that including questionable information 'for historical purposes' is a self-serving copout. Must everything be commemorated on the internet?
In my experience with climbing in off-limits areas... more >>
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Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Sifuentes Weber (5.9-)
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This bad-weather standby bears an uncanny resemblance to Hair City/West Butt of the Bastille, I kinda think.
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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about asking whether formations that are technically closed should be posted on the internet?
Those with the proper determination, experience, and contacts can get this beta elsewhere. The rest should probably climb somewhere else before they give us all a bad name.
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Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice description, Sirius. It's all true!
Regarding the approach: Any benefit gained from taking the ski lift is negated by the necessity of wobbling down through a lengthy boulder field to the Laguna Tomcek. Did this once and that was enough.
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