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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Capital Assets (aka Mantis ... (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dean Halfacre and I were the 'Never On Sunday' team, I think in 1990-something... the old guidebook will have to come out of deep storage to figure this out more exactly. Anybody heard from Dean lately? Anyhow I like the name Mantis best of all, it's a good one for stalking up a long series of mantles. And Capital Assets?...let's leave the money out of this.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : West Buttress (pitch 1&2) (5.10a)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well worth the walk, but you have to commit to this when you leave the road or else you'll just end up climbing the Sacherer Cracker again.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Unknown (5.9-)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brandon Mack and I climbed this in about 2001 or 2001, and I've done it a couple times since. I remember a kind of sporty move down low, before you get any gear, and then an easy romp to the top where one had to clamber through the dead pine. Jerry always brought great psyche and I'm sorry to hear of his passing. I hope I'm still sixty-one and having fun the way he did- a generous spirit and an inspiration to a lot of folks.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Peter Pan (5.9)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a classic excursion: giant features on a giant cliff, and once you leave the ground it feels like you're halfway up El Cap. Watch for pterodactyls and maybe bring a couple beers up to the Peter Pan ledge at the top.
As long as you're in the neighborhood, don't miss the first two pitches of the West Buttress- maybe the coolest .10a in the Valley.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Loggerhead Buttress : Loggerhead Ledge Route (5.7)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice in the warm season too.
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Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Objetivo Luna (5.10c)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Michel Piola, I believe. Puts the please-U in pleasure climbing!
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Wood Spirit (5.10b/c)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jesus.
You! out of the gene pool!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Resin Rose (5.11d)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: And a pair of those shoes.
Raise your hand if you remember these!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Linear Encounters (5.11a PG13)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or maybe people who can climb the hard part don't fall later where it's easier.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Transmitter Tower : Coax Trax (5.10c)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You people need to understand how it is around here...these are all we've got!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There oughta be a law! This picture is the height of irresponsibility and should be taken down. I sure hope that belayer is certified- can't see her card from this angle.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Desperate Straights (5.10a)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good choice if you show up early and climbing in the sun is too hot.
Also rarely crowded.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Spire Direct (5.8 C2)
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing on this route is extremely straightforward; in this, it is indeed suitable for the n00b. The logistics are another thing entirely, which is what sent the 3 guys from Wisconsin home with their laminated topos between their legs when we were up there.
The approach is burly and you might need a rest day by the time you get done with it. Water is a hassle unless you arrive while the little trickle at the base of the LA Chimney is flowing- springtime/post-rain only. Humping ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Ying-Yang (5.10d)
By: Rob Dillon When: Jul 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is the Yin, and the second the Yang.
I've only climbed the first. It's quite sustained and slick, pretty unrelenting really. Clean your shoes off before hopping on this one.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Pat Pinnacle (5.7)
By: Rob Dillon When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 3rd-class dirt gully is about like you imagined it. It works.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Pika Alliteration (5.8)
By: Rob Dillon When: Dec 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure if 'Illiteration' refers to wink-wink conscious misspelling or is accidental, but if you mean to refer to the 3 'J's of your names in the conventional sense the word you seek is 'alliteration.'
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Renegades of Funk (5.10)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI from the Closed Course entry:
Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13)
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "By today's standards"
I love it. By this do we mean 'don't put the time in to learn a technique, and then complain about the grade?'
Kids today, grumble, sniff.
The supertopo has way too much detail on the start of this route, and yet fails to include the myriad of variations on the topout. I think this is kinda cool, since it gives folks a reason to go and climb the route again and have a different experience.
The traditional onsight topout entails a lot of yelling back and forth a... more >>
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Location: CO : Walnut Brewery - Rocky Moun...
By: Rob Dillon When: Nov 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like that: I buy beer, RMR gets money. Folks should be on this like white on rice.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "You gonna eat that?"
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Sep 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude, wake up! The handcrack, I'm ready! Put me on!
(Uhhhhh)
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Location: J. Albers : Shuteye Ridge : Photo
By: Rob Dillon When: Sep 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Double Shot", aka "Welcome to Shuteye"
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Ribbon Falls Area : Gold Wall : The Silent Line (5.10 C1)
By: Rob Dillon When: Sep 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a 70, and jugs. Link 1 & 2, then leave jugs/aiders at the p2 anchor. Pick them up when you rap. The hanging belay is a crippler!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Malidea (5.11-)
By: Rob Dillon When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeez I'd love to, but I gotta wash the car...
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Groundhog Day (5.13a/b PG13)
By: Rob Dillon When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa. Nice job indeed there, Pops! 'Groundfall Day' is more like it....
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