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Location: UT : Glen Canyon : The Cheesebox (Easy 5th)
By: RoadTripRyan When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tristan:
I think you used my route description. ( www.ajroadtrips.com/go/t/utah/cedar-mesa/thecheesebox ) You seem to be doing a lot of the trips from my site these days.
It was traditionally rated 5.5 in the Desert Rock guidebook I have. Could definitely be soloed, but the rock is poor. A few pieces seem prudent for moderate leaders. I know of at least 2 groups that went to the base without gear, and backed off.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Encore (5.7)
By: RoadTripRyan When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the roof, there is also a bolted line up the arete on the left. Anyone know what's it's called? Felt about 5.7 as well.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: RoadTripRyan When: Sep 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this route September 17-2007. Wild exposure on the last pitch. If you have a 70M rope, you can rap the route with that instead of taking 2-60M's. 1 set of cams, 1 set of nuts, and some trad draws is the rack we used. My more detailed trip report is here
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Assembly Hall Peak : Heavy Metal (5.10 C0)
By: RoadTripRyan When: Jul 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Write-up, with some pictures, is also available at-
www.ajroadtrips.com/go/trips/san-rafael-swell/assemblyhall.h>>>
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Pierced Nipple : Piercing The Nipple (5.12c A0-1)
By: RoadTripRyan When: May 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of rivet hangers, or wire nuts are useful. 2 or 3 of the bolts were missing hangers.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : The Maze District : Cleopatra's Chair : Regular Route (5.6 A0)
By: RoadTripRyan When: Apr 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an interesting climb. Disappointedly, we could not find a summit register. It would be interesting to see how often the route is climbed.
For gear, I placed a #2 Robot Cam in the first pitch before the traverse out of the hand crack, and used a couple of medium cams to setup a belay. That was it for the route. The slot pitch is easy and secure, and the crux section up high doesn't have any placements.
I avoided the shoulder stand crux move with a wide stem, and tricky balance... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Sunshine Wall Routes : Tezcatlipoca (5.7)
By: RoadTripRyan When: Dec 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I did this, I placed a #4 Camalot at the top of the crack, a couple of TCU's in a horizontal crack below the drilled piton, then a quickdraw for the piton.
Fun tower. Great setting.
-RoadtripRyan
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