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Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tre...


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas


Point Rank: # 930
Total Points: 689
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 4
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 987 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 97 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 346 | Stars 227 | Ratings 176
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Short and Stupid (5.8+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: would be a lot more fun if it was longer


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wounded Knee (5.11-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: Guide book did not call for any #4 C4 so when I got to the crux I had to retreat because I was to scared to pull it without protection. Went back and got the crux easy after plugging in a protection piece


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Survival of the Fittest (5.12b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: very top section (routes old crux) is definitely harder compared to when I got the red point on it. Someone broke up loose holds up top making the crux harder and maybe height dependent. When I made the move on TR I was almost completely horizontal and doing a reachy move to past the crux...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I will probably add this beta to create a new route here on MP since it seems to be a different finish than what is posted here.

I believe we did the first 3 pitches of Consolation then finished on Consolation Direct 5.10a/b in 4 long pitches using a 70m rope. Rope stretcher so bring 12-13 slings and doubles in .5-3 with set of nuts.

Pitch 1: Did the 5.8 start on The Constellation as per what was recommended here by other climbers. Climb the slab/crack to right of the slab for good gear place... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Lead the whole route on gear except clipping the last two bolts since there was no placement to be had. such a good climb. sucks that it was bolted (especially the bottom section). good hand jams with good .75 for first piece


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Trundle Trophy (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route after not being on it after months. Top crux and bottom crux totally different. The huge boulder size rock (think hood of a car) was trundled off before the hidden jug was knocked off. Totally changes the moves but I think stays at the same grade of 10c. I think the route is a lot better with added moves to middle of the route and before the anchors.

10c


Location: David prsn : . : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: sick shot


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Agony Arch (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: soooo good! I worked this route with my friend Ben aka Jesus. First attempt I lead up to the offwidth section and got to tired to finished. We tagged team the route and he finished the rest of the route. Next day he lead it all the way and I TRed it with one fall at the 2nd wide section. We used a #5 on this route but 2 #4 C4 would be good at the offwidth where it starts slanting left.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: did this route again after top roping the classic 3rd pitch over a year ago. route still feels easy to me. We did whodunit earlier in the morning and had plenty of sun left. 5.9 on that route felt way harder then any move on the 10a 3rd pitch of this route. dont need big gear either or plenty of it. I placed my first piece about 20-25 feet up on after easy climbing on flakes. Can place a bomber nut then just small cams. I think i put like 5-6 pieces on the route. Just move and dont pump your sel... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: can be done in 4 pitches. Followed Colin Parker's Beta with 70 meter rope. Extend everything on pitch two during the chimney to prevent heinous rope drag


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Welcome to Little Baldy (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: 3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.

Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.

I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the sl... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Just did route this past Sunday and I have to say has to be my favorite multipitch route in red rocks so far even though I failed leading pitch 4.

We brought TCU blue to red and single 0.4-#6 C4s. There are two bolts on pitch 5 that protect the parts of the wider stuff so doubles for the offwidth aren't necessary. I also placed two small nuts on pitch 2 I believe. Having a #5 on pitch 4 does help but not necessary. After a few more moves you can place something, but just a little ru... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Topped out the route this past Saturday April 13 and rapped Power Failure anchors with two 60m ropes. Be very careful rapping down cause there is A LOT of loose rock up there above power failure.

rack only consisted of draws, no gear was placed.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Out on a Limb (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: 5.10bish with A0 for the first bolt. I'm 5'6 and I can see the move going if I was over 6 foot tall and can reach the left hand side pull and step on the skirt


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: 70 meter raps ok. Rope tip ends about 3-4 feet above the ground


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: takes 2 good medium nut placements before the crux/moving into the crack/actually climbing of the route. Before that is just scrambling


Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: I've never seen so many anchors on a wall without rap rings. Is there a reason why at this wall? My partner and I rapped from the top down but had to maneuver from one belay station to another using scattered anchors with rap rings and using bail biners we found on rap anchors/belay stations without them...

Baby face was a prime example. You can climb the first pitch and get to a belay station with rap rings, but you climb another 10 feet up to belay for the 2nd pitch on 3 bolts without rings/c... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : Baby Face (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: I felt like pitch 2 was a lot more difficult than pitch 3. Route info didn't mention that pitch 2 is pretty slabby half way through.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Thanks. I didn't even notice it walking away from the quarry till I turned around halway to the car...it was actually lightly raining at this time


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Fungus folks (5.11a/b R)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: Hats off to anyone that bags this on Lead. This would be a really sketch lead as 1st piece of Pro I can see be placed is about 25ft of the ground on 5.10 moves with slick sections prior


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : No Laughing Matter (5.10-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route yesterday. Route eats nuts and I probably placed 4 cams and rest nuts. Don't let the read on hollow flakes scare you away. Good route to do when it's cold out along with other routes on this wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bush Pilots (5.10a R)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: Friend lead this route and I followed. Bottom crux was protected with a yellow TCU then a #2 C4. You can placed the 1st piece, lower down then clip it from a good stance


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. Totally worth doing when its really cold out. My friend that's 5.9 did it with no problem. You don't need to be 5'10 with long arms to get the crux static. I'm about 5'6 and was about an inch from getting the right crimp static. I did find a mono right above the crux where everyone seems to do a layback/sidepull and then dyno for the jug straight up. It's easy breezy afterwards


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Topless Twins (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: I used mainly nuts on this route and I think a .75 and #1 ?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route with Ben Quinones(met him here on MP) on Thursday and boy was it freaking cold. Our hands were numb the entire way up. It was totally worth it though because we were the only climbers on the entire tower and the entire canyon!

Route can be definitely done/rapped with a 70 meter rope and you definitely do not need a double rack and for sure not a #4. Leave those two 60's at home or back in the car and that extra gear! We probably used half a rack, set of nuts and 15 dra... more >>


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