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Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas


Point Rank: # 890
Total Points: 775
Last Year: 173
Last 30 Days: 6
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1044 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 112 | Page Improvements | Comments 146 | Posts 355 | Stars 240 | Ratings 184
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : All Washed Up (5.11d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: While Uncle Ho was being developed, this route had a lot of touch up done to it. I didn't try the route in its original form, but I think this route can be a new area classic for being in the 5.11 range. Sections of this route can be done in various ways depending on your height or how you want to climb it. Route has a good pump factor to it. You can set up TR on this route but doing Uncle Ho, and you can also continue up this route to the anchors of Uncle Ho for additional fun climbing.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: after doing this route multiple times, I think it goes at 10a. I feel like there is only really 1 distinct crux on this route and it doesn't go any harder than moves on whammy or par up with crux move on flexercise. If you want to count in the length of the route along with the pump, the route has enough no hands rest before any real "10a" climbing begins.

oh and the hand jam! don't miss out on the hand jam!


Location: Jan Tarculas : Clark Mountain : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: I believe so


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Sweet Surrender (5.12b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Crux is only a couple moves like what steve said, but I feel like individual crux move is harder then crux on other 12as at the quarry like megalomania/raging raptor


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I highly recommend following John Wilder's rap beta. We attempted to link the last two raps (top of pitch two to the ground) and made it down safely BUT did get out rope stuck. Took us 2 hours combined trying to pull it down. My partner ended up hooking himself back on one strand while i gave him a firemans belay and he had to climb all the wayback up to top of pitch two.

sooooooo

RAP from top of pitch two to top of pitch one then to the ground. Don't combined. There are a lot of stuck ropes ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday, such a good route, anchors still in good place. Route takes smaller gear, can place a #3 at top before the anchors but not really needed. The slab start made the route so much better


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : No Calculators Allowed (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Felt like 95% of this route was easier then 5.9 to the right (Count your fingers) with only one hard section up top. Possible a 5.9+ compared to right ski track


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ranger J.B. (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: little heady half way up this short route


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I dont think this is pg13 or R rated at all. Protects well, did not need any ball nuts or slinging a chicken head to move to the right crack after the first ledge. I was able to place a nut on a shallow crack down low before the main part of the crack starts...think knee/ankle level when standing on the ledge


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Blue Sun (5.10-) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: more like cup hands up


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: Crack is way to big for #2s. Mostly 3.5 camalots down low to #3s up top and plugged one #4 in the middle where it looks like its a jug about 10 feet after where the steep section ends


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I believe I plugged in 4 #3s 1 #2s and 1 #4. The number #2 protected midway up the crack for me where it obviously gets slightly thinner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyne Crack Simulator (5.11-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I suck at .75 C4 so I give this 5.11- Harder than Pente which is classic 5.11 for me


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Short and Stupid (5.8+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: would be a lot more fun if it was longer


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wounded Knee (5.11-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: Guide book did not call for any #4 C4 so when I got to the crux I had to retreat because I was to scared to pull it without protection. Went back and got the crux easy after plugging in a protection piece


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Survival of the Fittest (5.12b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: very top section (routes old crux) is definitely harder compared to when I got the red point on it. Someone broke up loose holds up top making the crux harder and maybe height dependent. When I made the move on TR I was almost completely horizontal and doing a reachy move to past the crux...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I will probably add this beta to create a new route here on MP since it seems to be a different finish than what is posted here.

I believe we did the first 3 pitches of Consolation then finished on Consolation Direct 5.10a/b in 4 long pitches using a 70m rope. Rope stretcher so bring 12-13 slings and doubles in .5-3 with set of nuts.

Pitch 1: Did the 5.8 start on The Constellation as per what was recommended here by other climbers. Climb the slab/crack to right of the slab for good gear place... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Lead the whole route on gear except clipping the last two bolts since there was no placement to be had. such a good climb. sucks that it was bolted (especially the bottom section). good hand jams with good .75 for first piece


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Trundle Trophy (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route after not being on it after months. Top crux and bottom crux totally different. The huge boulder size rock (think hood of a car) was trundled off before the hidden jug was knocked off. Totally changes the moves but I think stays at the same grade of 10c. I think the route is a lot better with added moves to middle of the route and before the anchors.

10c


Location: David prsn : . : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: sick shot


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Agony Arch (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: soooo good! I worked this route with my friend Ben aka Jesus. First attempt I lead up to the offwidth section and got to tired to finished. We tagged team the route and he finished the rest of the route. Next day he lead it all the way and I TRed it with one fall at the 2nd wide section. We used a #5 on this route but 2 #4 C4 would be good at the offwidth where it starts slanting left.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: did this route again after top roping the classic 3rd pitch over a year ago. route still feels easy to me. We did whodunit earlier in the morning and had plenty of sun left. 5.9 on that route felt way harder then any move on the 10a 3rd pitch of this route. dont need big gear either or plenty of it. I placed my first piece about 20-25 feet up on after easy climbing on flakes. Can place a bomber nut then just small cams. I think i put like 5-6 pieces on the route. Just move and dont pump your sel... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: can be done in 4 pitches. Followed Colin Parker's Beta with 70 meter rope. Extend everything on pitch two during the chimney to prevent heinous rope drag


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Welcome to Little Baldy (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: 3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.

Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.

I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the sl... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Just did route this past Sunday and I have to say has to be my favorite multipitch route in red rocks so far even though I failed leading pitch 4.

We brought TCU blue to red and single 0.4-#6 C4s. There are two bolts on pitch 5 that protect the parts of the wider stuff so doubles for the offwidth aren't necessary. I also placed two small nuts on pitch 2 I believe. Having a #5 on pitch 4 does help but not necessary. After a few more moves you can place something, but just a little ru... more >>


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