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Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 910
Total Points: 678
Last Year: 207
Last 30 Days: 15
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 946 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 96 | Page Improvments | Comments 128 | Posts 335 | Stars 215 | Ratings 165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: RNclimber When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: did this route up to pitch 8 on 3/13/14 and had to bail do to time constraints and not really feeling the route.

So now you can bail from top of pitch 8 to the ground because we left 4 bail biners and taped the gates closed. During the rap we only had to sling 1 extra tree and all other raps had slings BUT missing rings. Not sure if people took the rings or left biners and those got stolen. Hopefully people leave these behind for future parties that need to bail.

that being said this route w... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: RNclimber When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I just did this route on Saturday 3/15/14\, 5 stars out of 4. Each pitch was classic. Favorite pitch was pulling the roof. I suck at offwidth and every comment about it being easy was very true. There's a fixed cam inside that pitch, but make sure to keep a #4 with you after pulling the roof. I walked mine the entire way up and a 3.5 along with it. Save a #2 for the roof itself. I had to down climb because I used both of them lower down.

If I knew I would've have brought a pair of ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Feltonian Physics (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: I did this route yesterday. pulling the last moved required a #2 C4 I believe. I didn't use a nut or hex, but I did put a #3 c4 up top to prevent my rope from sliding into the crack to bring up my follower.

#4 c4 does help on the traverse to the right at the very end


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: followed nelson day up this route. this was hard


Location: Hamik Mukelyan : Yours truly : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: I knew it got ice up there, but never actually saw photos untill this one. Awesome shot. What route is this (when not frozen?)


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : All Washed Up (5.11d)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: While Uncle Ho was being developed, this route had a lot of touch up done to it. I didn't try the route in its original form, but I think this route can be a new area classic for being in the 5.11 range. Sections of this route can be done in various ways depending on your height or how you want to climb it. Route has a good pump factor to it. You can set up TR on this route but doing Uncle Ho, and you can also continue up this route to the anchors of Uncle Ho for additional fun climbing.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: after doing this route multiple times, I think it goes at 10a. I feel like there is only really 1 distinct crux on this route and it doesn't go any harder than moves on whammy or par up with crux move on flexercise. If you want to count in the length of the route along with the pump, the route has enough no hands rest before any real "10a" climbing begins.

oh and the hand jam! don't miss out on the hand jam!


Location: RNclimber : Clark Mountain : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: I believe so


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Sweet Surrender (5.12b)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Crux is only a couple moves like what steve said, but I feel like individual crux move is harder then crux on other 12as at the quarry like megalomania/raging raptor


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: RNclimber When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I highly recommend following John Wilder's rap beta. We attempted to link the last two raps (top of pitch two to the ground) and made it down safely BUT did get out rope stuck. Took us 2 hours combined trying to pull it down. My partner ended up hooking himself back on one strand while i gave him a firemans belay and he had to climb all the wayback up to top of pitch two.

sooooooo

RAP from top of pitch two to top of pitch one then to the ground. Don't combined. There are a lot of stuck ropes ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: RNclimber When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Jared: I climbed this Yesterday 11/22/13 and saw you red c4. It's pretty stuck. I tried a bit but it was getting really late and just left it there. It's going to take some elbow grease and a lot of persistence to get that one out...

On a side note. I did the same thing and left a blue c4 on the roof on pitch 5 (with my stuck carabiner). Same thing what jared said...doesn't hurt to ask, but I'll trade you back some $$ and beer for it.

-Jan


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday, such a good route, anchors still in good place. Route takes smaller gear, can place a #3 at top before the anchors but not really needed. The slab start made the route so much better


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : No Calculators Allowed (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Felt like 95% of this route was easier then 5.9 to the right (Count your fingers) with only one hard section up top. Possible a 5.9+ compared to right ski track


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ranger J.B. (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: little heady half way up this short route


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I dont think this is pg13 or R rated at all. Protects well, did not need any ball nuts or slinging a chicken head to move to the right crack after the first ledge. I was able to place a nut on a shallow crack down low before the main part of the crack starts...think knee/ankle level when standing on the ledge


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Blue Sun (5.10-) : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: more like cup hands up


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: Crack is way to big for #2s. Mostly 3.5 camalots down low to #3s up top and plugged one #4 in the middle where it looks like its a jug about 10 feet after where the steep section ends


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) (5.10)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I believe I plugged in 4 #3s 1 #2s and 1 #4. The number #2 protected midway up the crack for me where it obviously gets slightly thinner


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyne Crack Simulator (5.11-)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I suck at .75 C4 so I give this 5.11- Harder than Pente which is classic 5.11 for me


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Short and Stupid (5.8+)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: would be a lot more fun if it was longer


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wounded Knee (5.11-)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: Guide book did not call for any #4 C4 so when I got to the crux I had to retreat because I was to scared to pull it without protection. Went back and got the crux easy after plugging in a protection piece


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Survival of the Fittest (5.12b)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: very top section (routes old crux) is definitely harder compared to when I got the red point on it. Someone broke up loose holds up top making the crux harder and maybe height dependent. When I made the move on TR I was almost completely horizontal and doing a reachy move to past the crux...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I will probably add this beta to create a new route here on MP since it seems to be a different finish than what is posted here.

I believe we did the first 3 pitches of Consolation then finished on Consolation Direct 5.10a/b in 4 long pitches using a 70m rope. Rope stretcher so bring 12-13 slings and doubles in .5-3 with set of nuts.

Pitch 1: Did the 5.8 start on The Constellation as per what was recommended here by other climbers. Climb the slab/crack to right of the slab for good gear place... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: RNclimber When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Lead the whole route on gear except clipping the last two bolts since there was no placement to be had. such a good climb. sucks that it was bolted (especially the bottom section). good hand jams with good .75 for first piece


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Trundle Trophy (5.10d)
By: RNclimber When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route after not being on it after months. Top crux and bottom crux totally different. The huge boulder size rock (think hood of a car) was trundled off before the hidden jug was knocked off. Totally changes the moves but I think stays at the same grade of 10c. I think the route is a lot better with added moves to middle of the route and before the anchors.

10c


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