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Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 891
Total Points: 787
Last Year: 126
Last 30 Days: 11
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1068 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 114 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts 357 | Stars 250 | Ratings 193
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Sphinx Crack (5.13b) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: This is an awesome photo.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: WOW. hardman of the past


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Photo (Copy)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: If you build a belay about 15 ft up higher than this location you can make it to the very top with a 70m rope (barely reaches)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: @Kevin No...People's been climbing there for over a year now


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: double rack .4-3 with nut (save at least 1 #2 for anchor up top if not belaying from tree

Using a 70 meter I didn't belay from the shaded tree way in the back on the top of the pitch. I built a belay halfway from the edge to the tree so I can go back and hear my partner (wife). Crack needs .5-2 for anchor


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: start early or really late in the afternoon

we were first on the route at 9am 6/5/14 and by the time I was leading the 3rd pitch, there was about 4 parties waiting on the huge belay ledge.

Saw a smart couple sleep in and started their day late when we got to the base. They figured starting late in the afternoon was just as smart.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: 1st try at the offwidth at top facing right, couldn't move. 2nd try I faced left and it seemed easier.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: I brought three #3s and three #4s and used them all. I had to walk my last 4 also


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: that would be pretty epic if this was free solo'ed


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Also good spot to belay right before the crux so you can get a good view of your climber


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Did this route same day after super pooper. I thought they were about the same difficulty. At least the pitch 2 of this route


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10a/b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Just did this route yesterday and here are my comments.

double rack from .5-3 with #4 and set of TCUs, small set of nuts to protect the crux 10a/b move (I placed a purple TCU instead). LOTS OF SLINGS

We did the entire route in 4 pitches using a 60 meter rope starting at the base of the Trough

Pitch 1:
Start directly at the beginning of The Trough, climb about 30-40 feet of the route until you can start traversing left, towards the Vampire. Past the 1st large tree with slings and keep tr... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Hueco Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: haha you pirate going for booty


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Agree with Ryan. Sometimes our cove is covered in trash and stinky rotting kelp


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I've heard about pretty good sloppers at stoney


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Did this route a few more times since last post. Definitely lead this route on gear, it's so much more fun that way. It's also way more committing on the "lie back" section on the face on gear instead of clipping the bolts on the far right of it. Bring runners to extend the bottom pieces. Save 2-3 draws for the last section + your anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : More Than One Way (5.11-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: used a 3.5 and a #4 on this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: book says #1s and #2s but I placed at least 3 #3 C4s. #4 can be used also at the very top on easy slab before the anchors


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: i thought the roof was pretty easy. the crux for me was the very last section getting to the next anchors


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: I'd just pray really really hard that it doesn't walk.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: hey that's me


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: did this route up to pitch 8 on 3/13/14 and had to bail do to time constraints and not really feeling the route.

So now you can bail from top of pitch 8 to the ground because we left 4 bail biners and taped the gates closed. During the rap we only had to sling 1 extra tree and all other raps had slings BUT missing rings. Not sure if people took the rings or left biners and those got stolen. Hopefully people leave these behind for future parties that need to bail.

that being said this route w... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I just did this route on Saturday 3/15/14\, 5 stars out of 4. Each pitch was classic. Favorite pitch was pulling the roof. I suck at offwidth and every comment about it being easy was very true. There's a fixed cam inside that pitch, but make sure to keep a #4 with you after pulling the roof. I walked mine the entire way up and a 3.5 along with it. Save a #2 for the roof itself. I had to down climb because I used both of them lower down.

If I knew I would've have brought a pair of ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Feltonian Physics (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: I did this route yesterday. pulling the last moved required a #2 C4 I believe. I didn't use a nut or hex, but I did put a #3 c4 up top to prevent my rope from sliding into the crack to bring up my follower.

#4 c4 does help on the traverse to the right at the very end


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: followed nelson day up this route. this was hard


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