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Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 916
Total Points: 711
Last Year: 143
Last 30 Days: 25
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1001 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 101 | Page Improvements | Comments 136 | Posts 350 | Stars 230 | Ratings 177
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Hueco Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: haha you pirate going for booty


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Agree with Ryan. Sometimes our cove is covered in trash and stinky rotting kelp


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I've heard about pretty good sloppers at stoney


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Did this route a few more times since last post. Definitely lead this route on gear, it's so much more fun that way. It's also way more committing on the "lie back" section on the face on gear instead of clipping the bolts on the far right of it. Bring runners to extend the bottom pieces. Save 2-3 draws for the last section + your anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : More Than One Way (5.11-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: used a 3.5 and a #4 on this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: book says #1s and #2s but I placed at least 3 #3 C4s. #4 can be used also at the very top on easy slab before the anchors


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: i thought the roof was pretty easy. the crux for me was the very last section getting to the next anchors


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: I'd just pray really really hard that it doesn't walk.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: hey that's me


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: did this route up to pitch 8 on 3/13/14 and had to bail do to time constraints and not really feeling the route.

So now you can bail from top of pitch 8 to the ground because we left 4 bail biners and taped the gates closed. During the rap we only had to sling 1 extra tree and all other raps had slings BUT missing rings. Not sure if people took the rings or left biners and those got stolen. Hopefully people leave these behind for future parties that need to bail.

that being said this route w... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I just did this route on Saturday 3/15/14\, 5 stars out of 4. Each pitch was classic. Favorite pitch was pulling the roof. I suck at offwidth and every comment about it being easy was very true. There's a fixed cam inside that pitch, but make sure to keep a #4 with you after pulling the roof. I walked mine the entire way up and a 3.5 along with it. Save a #2 for the roof itself. I had to down climb because I used both of them lower down.

If I knew I would've have brought a pair of ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Feltonian Physics (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: I did this route yesterday. pulling the last moved required a #2 C4 I believe. I didn't use a nut or hex, but I did put a #3 c4 up top to prevent my rope from sliding into the crack to bring up my follower.

#4 c4 does help on the traverse to the right at the very end


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: followed nelson day up this route. this was hard


Location: Hamik Mukelyan : Yours truly : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: I knew it got ice up there, but never actually saw photos untill this one. Awesome shot. What route is this (when not frozen?)


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : All Washed Up (5.11d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: While Uncle Ho was being developed, this route had a lot of touch up done to it. I didn't try the route in its original form, but I think this route can be a new area classic for being in the 5.11 range. Sections of this route can be done in various ways depending on your height or how you want to climb it. Route has a good pump factor to it. You can set up TR on this route but doing Uncle Ho, and you can also continue up this route to the anchors of Uncle Ho for additional fun climbing.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: after doing this route multiple times, I think it goes at 10a. I feel like there is only really 1 distinct crux on this route and it doesn't go any harder than moves on whammy or par up with crux move on flexercise. If you want to count in the length of the route along with the pump, the route has enough no hands rest before any real "10a" climbing begins.

oh and the hand jam! don't miss out on the hand jam!


Location: Jan Tarculas : Clark Mountain : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: I believe so


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Sweet Surrender (5.12b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Crux is only a couple moves like what steve said, but I feel like individual crux move is harder then crux on other 12as at the quarry like megalomania/raging raptor


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I highly recommend following John Wilder's rap beta. We attempted to link the last two raps (top of pitch two to the ground) and made it down safely BUT did get out rope stuck. Took us 2 hours combined trying to pull it down. My partner ended up hooking himself back on one strand while i gave him a firemans belay and he had to climb all the wayback up to top of pitch two.

sooooooo

RAP from top of pitch two to top of pitch one then to the ground. Don't combined. There are a lot of stuck ropes ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday, such a good route, anchors still in good place. Route takes smaller gear, can place a #3 at top before the anchors but not really needed. The slab start made the route so much better


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : No Calculators Allowed (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Felt like 95% of this route was easier then 5.9 to the right (Count your fingers) with only one hard section up top. Possible a 5.9+ compared to right ski track


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ranger J.B. (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: little heady half way up this short route


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I dont think this is pg13 or R rated at all. Protects well, did not need any ball nuts or slinging a chicken head to move to the right crack after the first ledge. I was able to place a nut on a shallow crack down low before the main part of the crack starts...think knee/ankle level when standing on the ledge


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Blue Sun (5.10-) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: more like cup hands up


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: Crack is way to big for #2s. Mostly 3.5 camalots down low to #3s up top and plugged one #4 in the middle where it looks like its a jug about 10 feet after where the steep section ends


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