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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : ... : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jun 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went the same way this guy is probably doing. I placed a number 3 C4 right below him and proceded to go up and left, clipped a bolt on top of that small roof and continued traversing left to another ledge. I think going up after that bolt is 10a slab?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hope Chris D doesn't mind but I used his photo as an example of the line I did for this route...
My partner and I did this route on Saturday in 6 pitches vs the 7 pitches Chris D drew on his link.
s42.photobucket.com/albums/e310/mynameisjan/?action=view&cur>>>
Our line follows the first two pitches of the photo described then with slight variations. The first two pitches were pretty obvious to do via Wong Long climb. After the mummy pitch into the huge led... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Roof Area : Swank Nostalgia (5.12a)
By: RNclimber When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun movments. Extension can be broken down into sections which makes this a soft 12a. A no hands rest awaits after the anchor to nostalgia and a few more spots above. I've alway wanted to do this climb and finally did it yesterday with strong wind gust. A highly recommended route for 12a.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Light Within (5.10c)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FUN FUN FUN. A must do 5.10 climb at the Gorge
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : The Hulk (V6)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A hard right toe into the hueco is a must to do the right hand cross to the big boss hold
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Disco Inferno (5.11a)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st pitch is shared with towering inferno which was a 4 star classic climb. 2nd pitch 10d got really chossy half way through and difficult to get to anchors. Bolts scattered up and down after half way with flakes and holds falling off. Good lead for the brave, but just as scary following. Would be classic if it was cleaned up.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Don't Look Up (5.10b)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun warmup for the area. We did it in two pitches but doing it in one would have been more fun. Use long slings for rope drag.
Rappel down to a different set of anchors to the right of P2 anchors. Going to P2 anchors will be a little hard d/t angle of climb
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : White Lightning (5.7)
By: RNclimber When: Mar 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did dung fu "5.7", the flue "5.8", double cross "5.7+ - 5.8", and hands off "5.8" and I thought this was the hardest one of the bunch with the flue being the easiest. First 15ft was the crux for me and very greasy. We jokingly called it grease lightening after doing the climb.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - East Face : The Flue (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Mar 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did white lightening "5.7", double cross "5.7+ - 5.8", and hands off "5.8" and I thought this was the easiest one of the bunch with white lightening being the hardest.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Mass Production (5.9+)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is actually the 4th climb to the right and goes straight up to anchors. Guide book gives this a 10b and not a 5.9+. I agree with the guide book rating for the immediate area compared to the other routes.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Original Sin (5.11b)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: good holds with big powerful moves
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Roof Area : Delirious (5.11b)
By: RNclimber When: Dec 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pretty important right hand gaston(after a left hand crimp), which is also my favorite move in the entire climb, has broken off. I believe its after the 3rd or 4th bolt?
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hardest moves on this climb for me was clipping the bolt and slightly traversing left and up, then jug fest from there
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Flight of the Gumbie (5.9+)
By: RNclimber When: Sep 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: long and exposed. fun route
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Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Jailhouse Rock
By: RNclimber When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: can I ask how long the approach is?
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Ghetto Wall : Johnny Can't Lead (5.10d)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on.
p.s.
Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park
By: RNclimber When: Apr 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Words of advice for climbers here and everywhere else. PLEASE PLEASE put your own draws up top if you are planning on top roping. A lot of the anchors here are open shuts or fixed caribiners so it is VERY temping to just clip into them, get lowered down, and use them for TR for rest of your group. So PLEASE use your own quick draws to TR the climbs! Also please rappel as much as possible to also prevent wear on the anchors. THANKS!
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Ghetto Wall : Kathmandu (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with everyone else, crux is clipping the bolts. Steep climb with huge jugs. Make sure you don't slip before the 1st bolt or you will end up in water.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stone Wall : Haunted Hooks (5.10d)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't think the climbing is reachy at all. My girl at 5'1 foot lead it with no problem.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep
By: RNclimber When: Jan 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Getting there" information...My opinions...
I suggest taking the east approach. Even though it may take a bit longer, the west approach is a little hilly and becomes tiresome if carrying climbing gear, enough water and snacks for a full day of climbing at the crag (especially if its bright and sunny). East approach is mostly flat but with a bit of scrambling. It is also mostly shaded while the west approach gets direct sun until you reach the wash.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Claimjumpers Special (5.10d)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree, felt pretty easy for 10d or even 10c. The crux for me was clipping the anchors because they felt far from the good holds up top. Anchors are to far right from where the route ends.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry
By: RNclimber When: Jan 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for cleaning that choss around Choss Revolution Louie. I've been wanting to climb that route, but last time I was there some climbers were breaking off huge pieces of rocks on that route (I'm sure it was accidently and also purposeful on the obvious loose rocks). It felt to choss to climb seeing rock fleeing down to unexpected climbers. Thanks again for keeping it safe out there.
-Jan
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Get Carter Boulder : Seven Spanish Angels (aka T... (V6)
By: RNclimber When: Dec 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree to the comment above. Drove straight to this problem this passed Monday to try to send, but once the sun came over the horizon and started beaming on the holds, it just kept getting greasy and greasy. Hopefully I will get the send next visit.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Roof Area : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: RNclimber When: Dec 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best climbs I've done at the quarry
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Flesh and Blood (5.11b)
By: RNclimber When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Location states that there is 11b rating written on the route...Few weeks back someone crossed that out and blasted it with chalk and wrote a HUGE 11c on it...so just look for the obvious 11c, but 11b in my opinion...crux move was just as hard as Delirious 11b. Awesome climb
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