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Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 883
Total Points: 804
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 2
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1114 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 116 | Page Improvements | Comments 154 | Posts 384 | Stars 255 | Ratings 198
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Da... : Sunshine Daydream (aka Yo P... (V4)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: BETA ALERT

If you know how to hand jam this climb feels more like a V3. I was able to relax and chill half way up the problem and get really bomber hand jams in the horizontal and vertical crack midway up. Knee bar helps


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: Must have been a lot hard with all that tape on the hand


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: No need to pay $5 if you have a National Park Pass, just display on your dash


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I agree with doing this in 2 pitches.

With a 70M rope I set up my 1 belay after the wide crack ends on a good ledge. I believe I used a #3 and a #2 C4 + something else for belay, but many options up top. You don't need a #4 or anything wider for this route. Plenty of small gear for the mid section of this route. Midway up is a fix piton next to the wide crack. I traversed left right before that piton and didnt even clip it. I also didn't see the traversed unitl I saw a small c... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Hospital Corner (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route, one of the best 5.10s I've done.

I did this route 7/14/15, the route gets sun around 2pm. I rapped with the 70M and only had a few feet to spare from pitch 2 anchors to the bolted anchors for pitch 1. You can possibly get away with a 60 with a little bit of downclimbing but I'd be very very carefuly. I did see anchors on the right you can possible rap to with a 60meter like what the comment above said.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: just got back staying in the campgrounds. Fees increased to $26/night. I remember paying cheaper last year. Crazy how much it cost to sleep on the dirt nowadays


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Puppy Dome : Battle of the Bulge (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Not R rated like supertopo book suggest. Agree with Vit regarding first 20 ft. protects really well with TCUs. My first piece was a red TCU that was actually hard to get out on the rappel. 2nd piece was an orange TCU then after are finger to hand size placements.

I think a 5.8 leader doesn't need to think twice about this route. Good pin scars for holds and good feet while placing gear down low. Crux is at top pulling pass a bulge. No need to use knees, use that hand and toe jam.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Alcove : ... : Power Windows (V6)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments:



Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: did you guys bivy at the base or get an alpine start from the car/camp site


Location: Tyler Wick : profile : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: what route is this


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 14, 2015

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Comments: oops forgot to say "jk" those are actually my dogs. they're just passed out cause it's their 3rd day running around


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: why isnt the dog helping with the spot


Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: wow cool looking route


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: clark!


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Tangerine Dream Area
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: I 2nd Colin's comment


Location: Dave Holliday : Macro shots : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: this would look really rad on print with a good frame


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Lead this on 2/20/15.

Suggested rack:
doubles .4-#3 C4 with a few small pieces. I placed a .2 and .3 x4
I brought a rack of nuts and only really placed 1 just so I can say I used it. So if you don't want to bring extra gear I'd just leave it at home.

Have your cordalette slung into a quad before you start the climb. 4 pitches have bolted belays with the 5th pitch the only one needing an anchor. the scramble pitch can be combined with the last pitch to the top...I opted to do the last ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: KNEEELLSOOOOONNN. UUPPPP ROOOOPPPPEEEE


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Hauck A Loogie - Var (V3)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments: this deserve one <3. scary up top past the flake cause there was no chalk on any holds. also felt easier than the V2 variation


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Carrot Top (V3)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments: BETA SPOILER:

found it easier to shoot right hand up first for the pickle looking hold above the lip vs going high left for the crimp


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Cherry Bomb (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: TRed this last week and bolts are no longer button heads. Good lead if you get clean. I suck at slab so I failed misreably


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Battle of the Bulge (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: belayed my friend on this and C Miller is spot on. Easily can break an ankle if you fall after pulling the roof and not being able to clip next bolt. Also left ankle can easily get stuck behind rope d/t movement of passing bolt at the crux move. be careful leading this thing


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Heart of the Sun (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Great lead for beginner climber


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : China Doll (5.8+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: felt spicy going to 2nd bolt for a 5.8


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hungover (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: great climb, all the moves are there, just fight the PUMP!!


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