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Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 924
Total Points: 685
Last Year: 210
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 961 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 97 | Page Improvements | Comments 130 | Posts 343 | Stars 217 | Ratings 167
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b) : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Per topo, the climber above is at the suggested belay. He told me to make one slightly lower. It worked just as well


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: RNclimber When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Went up there August 27-29. Vlad is right, there was a small stream/water hole about 100 feet below the camp site for good water.

Climbed Sunspot Dihedral August 28 and saw Peter Croft, David Nettle and another guy putting up a new Route to the Right of Sunspot. It was my first trip up there and Peter Croft was the one that inspired me to go there. I can't believe I was climbing right underneath him and had Nettle rapping next to me while watching me climb his route. Anyways, look out for anoth... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: RNclimber When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this 8-28-14 with Nelson Day. Got a green alien stuck on pitch 4 or 5, so good luck on the new owner.

We followed the Topo Luke Stefurak posted except a few differences.

At the end of pitch 2, I built a belay about 15 feet short of what was suggested. Another party was ahead of us and said the semi hanging belay sucked and be better to built a belay a little lower. I built my belay after the 5.9 pillar past the 2 bolt anchors on the huge ledge. More comfortable that way.

I wouldn't re... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Lost Souls (5.12a)
By: RNclimber When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: I'm a little short of 5'6". Did this route about 3 years ago and I don't remember having to dyno for anything. Just really big moves


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Upper Tier : Mohawk (5.12a)
By: RNclimber When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: I believe the FA to this route was Chris Scheusler.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b) : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: doing this route next month. I'm about 5'6, is the traverse to the hand crack pretty height dependent?


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b) : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: That's a pretty long traverse


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Sphinx Crack (5.13b) : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: This is an awesome photo.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R) : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: WOW. hardman of the past


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Photo (Copy)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: If you build a belay about 15 ft up higher than this location you can make it to the very top with a 70m rope (barely reaches)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
By: RNclimber When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: @Kevin No...People's been climbing there for over a year now


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: double rack .4-3 with nut (save at least 1 #2 for anchor up top if not belaying from tree

Using a 70 meter I didn't belay from the shaded tree way in the back on the top of the pitch. I built a belay halfway from the edge to the tree so I can go back and hear my partner (wife). Crack needs .5-2 for anchor


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: start early or really late in the afternoon

we were first on the route at 9am 6/5/14 and by the time I was leading the 3rd pitch, there was about 4 parties waiting on the huge belay ledge.

Saw a smart couple sleep in and started their day late when we got to the base. They figured starting late in the afternoon was just as smart.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: 1st try at the offwidth at top facing right, couldn't move. 2nd try I faced left and it seemed easier.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: I brought three #3s and three #4s and used them all. I had to walk my last 4 also


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: RNclimber When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: that would be pretty epic if this was free solo'ed


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: RNclimber When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Also good spot to belay right before the crux so you can get a good view of your climber


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Did this route same day after super pooper. I thought they were about the same difficulty. At least the pitch 2 of this route


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10a/b)
By: RNclimber When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Just did this route yesterday and here are my comments.

double rack from .5-3 with #4 and set of TCUs, small set of nuts to protect the crux 10a/b move (I placed a purple TCU instead). LOTS OF SLINGS

We did the entire route in 4 pitches using a 60 meter rope starting at the base of the Trough

Pitch 1:
Start directly at the beginning of The Trough, climb about 30-40 feet of the route until you can start traversing left, towards the Vampire. Past the 1st large tree with slings and keep tr... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Hueco Wall : ... : Photo
By: RNclimber When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: haha you pirate going for booty


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Photo
By: RNclimber When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Agree with Ryan. Sometimes our cove is covered in trash and stinky rotting kelp


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I've heard about pretty good sloppers at stoney


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Did this route a few more times since last post. Definitely lead this route on gear, it's so much more fun that way. It's also way more committing on the "lie back" section on the face on gear instead of clipping the bolts on the far right of it. Bring runners to extend the bottom pieces. Save 2-3 draws for the last section + your anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : More Than One Way (5.11-)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: used a 3.5 and a #4 on this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: book says #1s and #2s but I placed at least 3 #3 C4s. #4 can be used also at the very top on easy slab before the anchors


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