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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did route this past Sunday and I have to say has to be my favorite multipitch route in red rocks so far even though I failed leading pitch 4.
We brought TCU blue to red and single 0.4-#6 C4s. There are two bolts on pitch 5 that protect the parts of the wider stuff so doubles for the offwidth aren't necessary. I also placed two small nuts on pitch 2 I believe. Having a #5 on pitch 4 does help but not necessary. After a few more moves you can place something, but just a little ru... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: RNclimber When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Topped out the route this past Saturday April 13 and rapped Power Failure anchors with two 60m ropes. Be very careful rapping down cause there is A LOT of loose rock up there above power failure.
rack only consisted of draws, no gear was placed.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Out on a Limb (5.10c)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.10bish with A0 for the first bolt. I'm 5'6 and I can see the move going if I was over 6 foot tall and can reach the left hand side pull and step on the skirt
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 70 meter raps ok. Rope tip ends about 3-4 feet above the ground
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: RNclimber When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: takes 2 good medium nut placements before the crux/moving into the crack/actually climbing of the route. Before that is just scrambling
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak
By: RNclimber When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never seen so many anchors on a wall without rap rings. Is there a reason why at this wall? My partner and I rapped from the top down but had to maneuver from one belay station to another using scattered anchors with rap rings and using bail biners we found on rap anchors/belay stations without them...
Baby face was a prime example. You can climb the first pitch and get to a belay station with rap rings, but you climb another 10 feet up to belay for the 2nd pitch on 3 bolts without rings/c... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : Baby Face (5.11a)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt like pitch 2 was a lot more difficult than pitch 3. Route info didn't mention that pitch 2 is pretty slabby half way through.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks. I didn't even notice it walking away from the quarry till I turned around halway to the car...it was actually lightly raining at this time
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Fungus folks (5.11a/b R)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hats off to anyone that bags this on Lead. This would be a really sketch lead as 1st piece of Pro I can see be placed is about 25ft of the ground on 5.10 moves with slick sections prior
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : No Laughing Matter (5.10-)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route yesterday. Route eats nuts and I probably placed 4 cams and rest nuts. Don't let the read on hollow flakes scare you away. Good route to do when it's cold out along with other routes on this wall.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bush Pilots (5.10a R)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Friend lead this route and I followed. Bottom crux was protected with a yellow TCU then a #2 C4. You can placed the 1st piece, lower down then clip it from a good stance
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Totally worth doing when its really cold out. My friend that's 5.9 did it with no problem. You don't need to be 5'10 with long arms to get the crux static. I'm about 5'6 and was about an inch from getting the right crimp static. I did find a mono right above the crux where everyone seems to do a layback/sidepull and then dyno for the jug straight up. It's easy breezy afterwards
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Topless Twins (5.9)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used mainly nuts on this route and I think a .75 and #1 ?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: RNclimber When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route with Ben Quinones(met him here on MP) on Thursday and boy was it freaking cold. Our hands were numb the entire way up. It was totally worth it though because we were the only climbers on the entire tower and the entire canyon!
Route can be definitely done/rapped with a 70 meter rope and you definitely do not need a double rack and for sure not a #4. Leave those two 60's at home or back in the car and that extra gear! We probably used half a rack, set of nuts and 15 dra... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : False Lieback (5.4)
By: RNclimber When: Dec 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: such a fun climb for the grade. I used a #3 to protect the crux for me.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Catch A Falling Star (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Dec 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In reply to Joseph's post about being height dependent..
I'm about 5'5 and I don't think it was height dependent at all. Really good smears and foot holds on this route. I think I only used up to .75 C4 on this route and 2 solid nut placements. Crux for me was right before the anchors
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Double Agent (5.12a)
By: RNclimber When: Nov 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: route would be a lot better if it involved harder moves (more 12a or 11+) after lower crux. Crux is above 2nd bolt and can be done multiple ways (tall and short), rest of the climbing is 10 to easy 11 with plenty of rest
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Photo
By: RNclimber When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: flesh and blood, trundle trophy and nostalgia?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this climb this past Monday in one pitch. Had doubles in .5-3, one #4 and set of nuts. Climb takes nuts really well, use long slings at the bottom and save one #2 after the double crack up top, which is a lot easier than it looks! Excellent climb!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: RNclimber When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Partner and I did after seven then continued up this route. To much easy/scrambling climbing for me until the very last pitch. Fun face climbing at the last pitch.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: RNclimber When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first time in the valley this weekend and decided to do this route as my introductory climb to Yosemite climbing. Quality route, 4 stars from me. Felt like tahquitz climbing(my home trad crag)
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Violator (5.11c)
By: RNclimber When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The meat of the climb doesn't really get difficult till about 30 feet up from the new start. If you're 5'5 or lower, one clipping stand is pretty "reachy" and I would say right around the first crux of the climb.
Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb on Saturday, classic route. 3rd bolt on pitch two still missing hanger, can cinch a nut to it to clip onto for protection or can be a pretty big fall/swing. Classic pitch 3 also ends at 3 bolts and route can be rappeled back to the Jungle then rap back close to the ground with some 3rd class scrambling to get to base of route to avoid Friction Descent.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can rappel of tree on pitch 1 with 70 meter with only a few feet to spare.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: RNclimber When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this yesterday with a friend (His first time ever doing trad/multipitch climb) and went very smooth. Climb can be done in 3 pitches. Ended the climb with the 5.5/5.6 slab with one bolt to the top.
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