Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Javelin (5.10+)
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: VERY scary start. I never managed to get over the crux near the bottom because the landing would be so ugly if you didn't make it. Pretty heavy commitment.
|
Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Chewbacca (5.8)
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, but a real bitch to retrieve the rope from the anchors on climber's right if you have to rap down and pull gear. If you rope solo this as a lead, plan on seconding on TR to clean gear, then retrieve your rope at the top and take the class 3-4 walkoff just uphill from the topout. Or stand at the bottom tugging and cursing all day:)
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : The Sentinel
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7 seems like quite a stretch. This was one of my first trad climbs, and I recall feeling like the rope was overkill. Just a lot of blocks and shrubs. I wouldn't make any special effort to climb this. There are many better climbs in the area. Tombstone, for example.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake : Flake n' Bake (5.5)
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left facing dihedral immediately to the right goes at about the same difficulty as flake'n bake, but the pro is a little sketchy in the middle (small pocket in the crack will take a #3-4 stopper, but really shallow placement).
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo... : Pizza Crack (V2)
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not that hard to do, but the exposure is terrifying:) If you don't stick that last jam it could be a really ugly get-off. That said, bring a lot of nerve, and hit it quick. Staring at the crux from halfway will burn your forearms and sap your courage. Bring a pad, a good spotter and just SEND. The less time you spend, the easier it is. Good luck, my friends...
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Backside of Upper Mound/ Wo... : Wounded Knee (V2+)
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very "Sequency"(?) the divot between the crimpers and the big hand ledge is the key. if you can plant your feet solidly and get the divot with your left hand, the rest is easy money. Keep your hips in close to the rock. Be brave, it's not a bad landing, but it IS a bad downclimb;)
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : Blockade (5.10a)
By: RiggerMortis When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More intimidating to look at than to actually do. Passing the second bolt is a scary, but surprisingly easy layback move. Once you get up into the corner under the roof there's a really nice rest to be had with good feet. Standing up on the ledge outside the roof and going for the anchors is a little nervy, too, but again, more of a headgame than anything. If you rope solo this as a lead (I did), bring a prussik or two, or maybe an ascender to get positioned to remove the quickdraw under the... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: RiggerMortis When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say it's all 5.7 to 5.8 except for the crux move. BTW, it CAN be done without the mystery foothold. You just have to place your left foot really high and hang from the sidepull in the dihedral with your left hand while reaching around the corner for a pinky and ring finger lock in the crack. Then grunt and send. This worked for me (but my partner swore it wouldn't 'til I did it:) Might not work if you're short. I'm 5'10"
|
RSS Feed
