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Member Since: Sep 7, 2006
Last Visit: Sep 1, 2013
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Point Rank: # 2,299
Total Points: 229
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 195 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvments | Comments 34 | Posts 31 | Stars 95 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a)
By: Riddler When: Jul 21, 2010

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Comments: A surprising amount of variety for such a short route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Alcove / BNF Area : No Talent Ass Clown (5.10c)
By: Riddler When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: Great rock! The crux hits hard but a little creativity will get you through it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Retro'd Hardman (5.10d)
By: Riddler When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: I think this route is a blast. Don't waste too much energy on the bouldery start; it's a long route, and the middle section, although easier, can still add up to quite a pump. You might be cursing when the chains are staring you in the face but you can't figure out how to pull the last bulge!

This route takes every foot of a 60m rope to lower/rap. You will definitely want to take the slings mentioned above for some of the mini-roofs.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Ionic Bonding (5.11a)
By: Riddler When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: Fun, juggy first pitch. Second pitch is good but has a short crux. Donít cheat yourself by clipping the chains from below the second roof, pull it first!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Jerusalem (5.11a PG13)
By: Riddler When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: Much harder than it looks. Utilizing careful footwork and good balance is the only way to get up this one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : The Tangerine : Verona (5.11a)
By: Riddler When: Sep 12, 2009

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Comments: Awesome route; I wish it was twice as long. Might be tough if you're short. I'm 6'0" with a +4 ape index and it is still a stretch for a couple moves.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Something Must Break (5.11a/b)
By: Riddler When: Sep 1, 2009

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Comments: Awesome jughaul. Even though this one gets traveled pretty often, I still pulled a good sized rock off near the top. Helmet for the belayer recommended, or at least belay close to the wall out of the way of flying rocks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Riddler When: Aug 31, 2009

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Comments: Great route, but not quite the classic I was hoping for. Several sections of crappy rock and mediocre pro detract from an otherwise awesome route. Still, a fun outing and pretty exciting. The last pitch was great, and much longer than I was expecting. As with a lot of routes in BCC, I found tricams to be especially useful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Blues from a Gun (5.10b)
By: Riddler When: Aug 11, 2009

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Comments: Really awkward start, but fun up above. The middle section is a bit contrived; it takes a lot of discipline to stay in the bolt line.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : The Raw and the Cooked (5.11a)
By: Riddler When: Aug 8, 2009

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Comments: A brown tri-cam near the top worked great for me. Watch out for stinging nettle growing out of the wall on the way to the first bolt; it hurts!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Skyscraper (5.8)
By: Riddler When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: Sweet exit. Be wise with your runners (on both gear and bolts) or you might get some nasty rope drag. Tri-cams work well on this route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Drunk Punk Oi (5.11b/c)
By: Riddler When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: Great route! This is my favorite one in Ferguson so far. Some tough clips up higher, or maybe that was just the pump talking.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock
By: Riddler When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: Unfortunately, the Ogden Area Climbing Guide has no first ascent information. I donít have any of the older, out-of-print guides; maybe there is some info there?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Begging For Bolts (5.11a)
By: Riddler When: May 15, 2009

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Comments: I felt like this route was more like a few short cruxes separated by straightforward climbing. Really fun, though. If you don't have two ropes you can use the anchors on Terminalogical Inexactitude as a second rap.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (5.10c)
By: Riddler When: Apr 22, 2009

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Comments: The undercling start is a really cool sequence, and the ledge is more difficult to attain than you might think from below. Watch out for hornets in one of the sidepull holds (can be bypassed) on the upper headwall!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Tree Crack Area : Tastes Like Burning (5.10d)
By: Riddler When: Apr 8, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun, continuous route that utilizes several different techniques. You will definitely want to take a cam in the .3-.5 range for the initial moves, as a fall before the first bolt with no gear in could be disastrous for both the climber and belayer.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Cracked Lip (5.11b/c)
By: Riddler When: Mar 3, 2009

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Comments: A fun route with a sweet crux sequence. Tough to clean on rappel.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Vile of Crack (5.11b/c)
By: Riddler When: Mar 3, 2009

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Comments: The first clip might look intimidating, but unless you are really short it isn't bad. The crux is still down low, though, so you'll need an attentive belayer to keep you out of the dirt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : K-8 (5.11b)
By: Riddler When: Dec 2, 2008

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Comments: Bulletproof rock, fun moves, perfect holds. A little soft for the grade. I just wish it was longer!


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : The Garden Of Eden (5.10d)
By: Riddler When: Dec 2, 2008

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Comments: I thought this route was really fun. The bulge is slopey but it has a decent clipping stance from below. After you pull over it, enjoy the juggy yet pumpy run to the anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Upper Wall : High Dive (5.11b)
By: Riddler When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: A fun extension to Geronimo. If you take care to alleviate rope drag, it is easily led in one pitch from the ground. You can rap all the way to the ground from the top of High Dive with a single 60m.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Teaming Metropolis (5.10d)
By: Riddler When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: I found this route to be extremely frustrating, as I was unable to figure out the roof sequence. If anyone is willing to share beta I will graciously accept it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Da Kine (5.9)
By: Riddler When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: At the risk of sounding like a wuss, I will be the first to say this route is MUCH harder than it's neighboring route, Lichen Life (10a). It's pretty cool that this route links together, but I found it needlessly frustrating.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: Riddler When: Nov 14, 2008

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Comments: This is a pretty reasonable highball boulder problem, especially since you can get it wired on a rope first. Watch out for the back-breaking boulder at the bottom!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: Riddler When: Nov 5, 2008

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Comments: I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.


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