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Location: PA : Bellefonte Quarry
By: Rick Mix When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: El crackitan 5.9+ bwaaaahhhaaaaaaaaa!
The "20 y/o" bolts we put in (20+years ago) are mostly very long so as to penetrate multiple layers in the bedding plane of the rock. Yeah, I typed penetrate... Should still be okay...Prior to that the standard Bellefonte bolt was the total POS self-drive lag shield. Not a bad bolt for the dude placing it,otherwise crap. (Though most of them did hold some long falls.) The change occurred of course when we bagged drilling by hand from stances and went Fren... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: Rick Mix When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even though the book says to climb this in two pitches, I usually go in four. I do the slab start R of the chimney, then up to the gully. P2 goes up to the bolted belay. P3 is kinda a guide trick. I do the traverse around the roof, go up the corner to its top and belay right there. It's short but allows great communication between everyone and makes the last pitch a bit more pleasant for the leader.
Really a great route.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: Rick Mix When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bombay is the 'Slot of Delight" on Scott Fischer Mem. route. It climbs the top side of the feature you're pictured on.
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Location: PA : Hunter's Rocks (Rocky Ridge... : The Main Area : Saddle Burr (V1+)
By: Rick Mix When: Aug 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I did the FA of this in early '90. It's "Saddle Burr" not "Sore".
Enjoy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Apparition (5.11a)
By: Rick Mix When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not 11a. Hard though. Balancy and strenuous.
I replaced the two bolts on this about a year ago. Also took out the pin that was hiding a perfect purple Metolius. The top anchors must be seen to be believed.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: Rick Mix When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was .11c in 1988. G rated pro. Way Awesome route.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Sunshine Crag : Unbroken Chain (5.12a)
By: Rick Mix When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Original line doesn't go around the arete. Stays on the left side all the way.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Rick Mix When: Jul 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: that isn't me.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area : Mr. Fantasy (5.11c)
By: Rick Mix When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, I put this route up with Nino Rocha.
I used a cam before the bolts.
Glad to see it's getting done.
The route name is Dear Mr. Fantasy.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Rick Mix When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a route! Did what may have been the 2nd free ascent with Erik Wagg and Jim Shimberg. It was a while ago! Finished on WOTWS. Super good!
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Location: PA
By: Rick Mix When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pa rocks! And just think, if you want to write a guidebook you don't have to go mucking about with a bunch of facts. Just print whatever comes to mind or sounds good. Awesome!
eg: Mojo @ Hunters was put up by Randy Burks circa '88 (or earlier)
He and I added the sit sometime shortly after that. Come to think of it, we did quite a few routes that never got recorded, and thence renamed,regraded, etc. Don't really care too much about that, but I do care about guidebook authors just randomly ma... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : Mohling Traverse (5.2)
By: Rick Mix When: Jul 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've gotta say that if you go up there expecting 5.2 then you may be in for a surprise. Quite a bit harder in my opinion. (I am old and weak....)
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Arborvitae (5.10)
By: Rick Mix When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, got on this thing last week. Had no idea about it, just looked good so racked up and went for it. Bernard, you really should just go ahead and bolt the whole route. Not looking for an ethical squabble here, but the mixture of fixed vs clean pro on this line just made no sense to me at all. Otherwise, a really great line.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon
By: Rick Mix When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone out there got some dope on the Unaweep wall route? Thanks
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: Rick Mix When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fer sure one of the BEST routes in BC! P2 overhang is a little heady, but that's what we're out there for, right?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Big Splash (5.10)
By: Rick Mix When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes right of The Big Splash= from a high ledge a seam up to a hand crack is "Flaming Dog Poo" 5.10ish? (hard start) further right is a nice overhang to dihedral that I cleaned and tried a couple times, then abandoned because somebody else put twelve bolts on the thing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: Rick Mix When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss ... more >>
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Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Rick Mix When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I read something about book signings being an hour early, with a drop-off/pick-up kinda thing. Anyone know the skinny on this? Here's to the Greatu'n!
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