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Member Since: Sep 22, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 12, 2015
Contact Rogerlarock

Point Rank: # 11,260
Total Points: 23
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rogerlarock been climbing?










Contributions


All 157 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 134 | Stars 2 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
keep on struttin

keep on struttin

Eastern States : Let's get the stoke going!!... : Post

Apr 11, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Wyoming Prairie Dogs (5.10a)
By: Rogerlarock When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route the other day. Sorry, boys, but it's just another squeeze job, and most of the holds are chipped to boot, but hey, you got your name on the MP, and that's what really counts right?


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Lazy Squaw Spire
By: Rogerlarock When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: FINALLY!! After many years of looking(and one aborted mission) FINALLY got up on this thing!!

A VERY UNIQUE AND WONDERFUL ADVENTURE!!

All of the bolts need to be fixed. I'm working on it.

Oh, an alternative approach is to park at Aspen Meadows CG (outside the CG proper but off the main road) and hike up to the saddle between the spire and the Grendel. Casual 10/15 min WSW uphill from there.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : ... : Photo
By: Rogerlarock When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: 11c? I graded it 11b when I put it up. Hold broke?


Location: PA : South Central PA : Bellefonte Quarry
By: Rogerlarock When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: El crackitan 5.9+ bwaaaahhhaaaaaaaaa!

The "20 y/o" bolts we put in (20+years ago) are mostly very long so as to penetrate multiple layers in the bedding plane of the rock. Yeah, I typed penetrate... Should still be okay...Prior to that the standard Bellefonte bolt was the total POS self-drive lag shield. Not a bad bolt for the dude placing it,otherwise crap. (Though most of them did hold some long falls.) The change occurred of course when we bagged drilling by hand from stances and went Fren... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: Rogerlarock When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: Even though the book says to climb this in two pitches, I usually go in four. I do the slab start R of the chimney, then up to the gully. P2 goes up to the bolted belay. P3 is kinda a guide trick. I do the traverse around the roof, go up the corner to its top and belay right there. It's short but allows great communication between everyone and makes the last pitch a bit more pleasant for the leader.
Really a great route.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: Rogerlarock When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: The bombay is the 'Slot of Delight" on Scott Fischer Mem. route. It climbs the top side of the feature you're pictured on.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Hunter's Rocks (Rocky Ridge... : The Main Area : Saddle Burr (V1+)
By: Rogerlarock When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: I think I did the FA of this in early '90. It's "Saddle Burr" not "Sore".
Enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Apparition (5.11a)
By: Rogerlarock When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Not 11a. Hard though. Balancy and strenuous.

I replaced the two bolts on this about a year ago. Also took out the pin that was hiding a perfect purple Metolius. The top anchors must be seen to be believed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Rogerlarock When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: that isn't me.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Rogerlarock When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: What a route! Did what may have been the 2nd free ascent with Erik Wagg and Jim Shimberg. It was a while ago! Finished on WOTWS. Super good!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Hunter's Rocks (Rocky Ridge...
By: Rogerlarock When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Mojo @ Hunters was put up by Randy Burks circa '88 (or earlier)
He and I added the sit sometime shortly after that. Come to think of it, we did quite a few routes that never got recorded, and thence renamed,regraded, etc. Don't really care too much about that, but I do care about guidebook authors just randomly making stuff up rather than doing WORK and RESEARCH before going to press. I know, that's crazy talk, but it would be nice to see effort put forth.

Sorry 'bout the rant.


Rick Mix


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : Mohling Traverse (5.2)
By: Rogerlarock When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: I've gotta say that if you go up there expecting 5.2 then you may be in for a surprise. Quite a bit harder in my opinion. (I am old and weak....)


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Arborvitae (5.10)
By: Rogerlarock When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: So, got on this thing last week. Had no idea about it, just looked good so racked up and went for it. Bernard, you really should just go ahead and bolt the whole route. Not looking for an ethical squabble here, but the mixture of fixed vs clean pro on this line just made no sense to me at all. Otherwise, a really great line.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon
By: Rogerlarock When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: Anyone out there got some dope on the Unaweep wall route? Thanks


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: Rogerlarock When: Dec 15, 2008

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Comments: Fer sure one of the BEST routes in BC! P2 overhang is a little heady, but that's what we're out there for, right?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Big Splash (5.10)
By: Rogerlarock When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: Routes right of The Big Splash= from a high ledge a seam up to a hand crack is "Flaming Dog Poo" 5.10ish? (hard start) further right is a nice overhang to dihedral that I cleaned and tried a couple times, then abandoned because somebody else put twelve bolts on the thing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: Rogerlarock When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss ... more >>


Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Rogerlarock When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: I read something about book signings being an hour early, with a drop-off/pick-up kinda thing. Anyone know the skinny on this? Here's to the Greatu'n!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: women's miura for dudes?Climbing Gear DiscussionRogerlarockApr 20, 2015
re: Surviving the wild west with NO $. Should I stay or should I go? (sorry for The Crash reference, I know, it is completely ran through)General ClimbingRogerlarockApr 19, 2015
re: Front Range Climbing Right Now?Colorado PartnersRogerlarockApr 19, 2015
re: Wilderness First Aid Injuries and AccidentsRogerlarockMar 25, 2015
re: Colorado doctors who climbColoradoRogerlarockJan 24, 2015
re: How Rap Slings came to the GunksEastern StatesRogerlarockJan 3, 2015
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