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This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...


Member Since: Oct 16, 2007
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,290
Total Points: 246
Last Year: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rick Blair been climbing?










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All 1327 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts 1129 | Stars 56 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : East Face/Achean Pronouncem... (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Pitons are not present at the top of P3. They are not needed anyway, plenty of pro. I linked the 1st and part of 2nd pitch in approach shoes, if it's 5.7, then just barely. I would recommend linking first 3 pitches into 2 pitches. The start of P1 is the crux so use your own judgment. P4 is 5.2 climbing BUT... very rotten, every hold is questionable, and there is no pro that will actually hold a fall until you get to a bomber threadable hole ~80 ft out on the ridge.

This was a fun climb, I ... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: Climbing shirtless with fresh snow in the background sums up a lot about Colorado for me.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: I contacted one of the local SAR guys by email. He thinks the route I did was the actual original route making rangerdrew's beta photo the picture of the original start. He thinks Wes's route was a rescue route and the anchors he encountered were left over from a rescue on Ye Old Hysterical. I went to the AMC library to find some old beta to clear this up, I think I had the correct route, but either way there appears to be 2 distinct routes here.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Wow, I can't wait to see comments on future routes for this area based on how the first one was received. You claim that bolting this area was discussed with the climbing community but I noticed everyone on this web site left very negative critiques including a major guide in the area. I wonder how that happened?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: Ok, that was me performing the ridiculous moves John is talking about above. I jammed my way up and got a #1 Camalot high in the crack instead of clipping the ring piton, bomber placement. The crack is very flared, so good jams were not easy to come by. Is it possible I plugged a cam into a necessary handhold that would have kept this easier? Maybe a better alternative would have been a layback? A fall from here, with good pro, would be very clean as you are overhanging, none the less ... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Green Giant Buttress : Dreamer (5.9) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: I see... obviously a Greatful Dead poster.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Knight With a Shining Stick (A3) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: That is one ballsy line! Good on you! You look very calm in the photo.... I bet that was not the case.... LOL!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Guide's Route (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I was following another pair of climber who combined P1 & P2. Don't do it with a 60m! They made it to the 3 piton belay just fine, I had to have my second climb up a little to reach. For P3, I went straight up the 5.8 roof crack to avoid rope drag. It was awesome! Fun moves. Easy/good pro, go for it. Stuck cam is still there.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I had to back off and clean the hand/fist crack on P2 for the sake of a follower, it felt 5.7 to me. Wish I could have gone that way because the rope drag going left on the ledge was horrendous. For a new follower, just pitch it out and belay from the huge ledge and do a short 3rd pitch to the top. Great easy lead!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: I loved this route more than the Lover's Leap Center route. Definitely two 5.6 cruxes on P1 and another on P2 IMO. This climb has an adventurous feel. P1 there was tons of lichen and moss, lots of loose rock, vegetation, rope drag, what's not to love? Surely I was off route... until I found the bolt hangers at the belay ledge. P2 I was wandering all over, I must have been off route... until I found the bolt hangers out on the slab belay. P3 was like the 3rd Flatiron to the top.

Maybe it w... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Gore Mountain Range : Buffalo Mountain : South Side of Buffalo Pinna... (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rick Blair When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Awesome job! To me this is what mountain project is all about.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 22, 2010

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Comments: Damn, they blend in well. I almost stepped on a mother and her chicks on New York Mountain once because I couldn't see them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette
By: Rick Blair When: Dec 9, 2009

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Comments: George, fair enough, recommending a dead tree as an anchor may not be the most responsible comment I have left on this site. Anyone reading this, don't assume you are rapping off the same tree I did and don't rap off of dead trees in general;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Pellea (5.5 R)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: I can tell from the descriptions some others took a slightly different route, I stayed mainly towards the southern edge. Normally I take R ratings on the East face Flatiron routes with a grain of salt, this one deserves it. The lead running up to the first crux and the entirety of the second crux on the 3rd pitch is friction and 2-3 mm edges for holds, all with no pro.

The first pitch crux actually has good pro for the final big move, for me, leading the 3rd pitch was the hardest part. Bef... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.8 Crack (5.8)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: I just got a report from someone without an MP account that there is a hollow flake breaking apart on this route. If you have better beta please post up and I will remove this.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Left Handed Jew (5.8)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: The crux is truly comparable to other 5.8s I have done, so I feel the rating is fair. Big committing moves to get over reminiscent of bouldering but you can slide a cam in above the crux and put yourself on TR... so go for it. I climbed while it was a little damp, so I had to lean waaaay back to get feet.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rattlesnake Canyon
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: Get on the water near Fruita and take out at the base of Rattlesnake Canyon. This is one of the best hikes I have ever done! Obviously river access makes this a less traveled trail. Absolutely amazing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: The first part of the description is correct 100%. I started on the far South side but instead of heading right to the "left leaning crack" I kept going left and never found the crack until I was above it at the belay. What I found was a 50 foot run out that I was not happy with, even on easy rock. Head in a rightward direction from the start!

Easy though long approach and descent, good rock, plenty of good belay station options, sustained 5.5 friction climbing with a fun finish and rappel, t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Recon (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: P1 was good but the rest was OK. 5.6 crux near beginning, rest is easier, 5.4ish. I headed straight up to the second pitch of the bomb, does recon have an official second pitch? I think I went to the top the wrong way. I went straight to the top after the anchors, I think you want to first head east to better rock then go up. The 3rd pitch I did had some run out climbing near the top on really rotten red rock, I had to check every hold, though it is easy climbing. If you are going to do the 3r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: The slung horn and the pink tricam (red is an option here) in a tiny pocket are your only pro for the first ~60 feet, ground fall is a distinct possibility here. Just remember the #1 rule of climbing and you should be fine.... don't fall.

The route goes 120' to the tree at the top. I gave into the temptation to to go further and used all 60m of rope to get to a nice belay ledge farther up, but the rope drag was horrendous so I cannot recommend this, belay at the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: May 17, 2009

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Comments: The start in the description above was obvious but not the same as what Roach has in his book. Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: The hanger on the left bolt at the anchor at the top of Skunk Crack and Comeback Crack is siting off the rock about a centimeter. Based on some tapping on the bolt I would say it is definitely a little loose but with recent snow melt and water seepage, the state of that bolt is probably not going to improve. Bring a wrench.


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: Speaking from experience, unless he has someone available extremely competent to support a used, especially older, laptop he is better off with a new one. An Apple if he has an Apple store nearby is especially good, lots of free support. I am assuming he is inexperienced with computers.


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: I wonder what his avatar on MP will look like, hmmmmm...


Location: CO : Merry Christmas, Happy Hanu...
By: Rick Blair When: Dec 24, 2008

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Comments: Since my wife is from abroad as well, I know how you probably miss some of the Christmas traditions of your homeland. Merry Christmas to you as well John! Thanks for this web site and all you add to the climbing community here. It was great to meet you last week.


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