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This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!


Member Since: Oct 16, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,138
Total Points: 242
Last Year: 33
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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All (1276) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (30) | Comments (62) | Posts (1085) | Stars (55) | Ratings (41)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: Ok, that was me performing the ridiculous moves John is talking about above. I jammed my way up and got a #1 Camalot high in the crack instead of clipping the ring piton, bomber placement. The crack is very flared, so good jams were not easy to come by. Is it possible I plugged a cam into a necessary handhold that would have kept this easier? Maybe a better alternative would have been a layback? A fall from here, with good pro, would be very clean as you are overhanging, none the less ... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Green Giant Buttress : Dreamer (5.9) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: I see... obviously a Greatful Dead poster.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Knight With a Shining Stick (A3) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: That is one ballsy line! Good on you! You look very calm in the photo.... I bet that was not the case.... LOL!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Guide's Route (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I was following another pair of climber who combined P1 & P2. Don't do it with a 60m! They made it to the 3 piton belay just fine, I had to have my second climb up a little to reach. For P3, I went straight up the 5.8 roof crack to avoid rope drag. It was awesome! Fun moves. Easy/good pro, go for it. Stuck cam is still there.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I had to back off and clean the hand/fist crack on P2 for the sake of a follower, it felt 5.7 to me. Wish I could have gone that way because the rope drag going left on the ledge was horrendous. For a new follower, just pitch it out and belay from the huge ledge and do a short 3rd pitch to the top. Great easy lead!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: I loved this route more than the Lover's Leap Center route. Definitely two 5.6 cruxes on P1 and another on P2 IMO. This climb has an adventurous feel. P1 there was tons of lichen and moss, lots of loose rock, vegetation, rope drag, what's not to love? Surely I was off route... until I found the bolt hangers at the belay ledge. P2 I was wandering all over, I must have been off route... until I found the bolt hangers out on the slab belay. P3 was like the 3rd Flatiron to the top.

Maybe it w... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Gore Mountain Range : Buffalo Mountain : South Side of Buffalo Pinna... (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rick Blair When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Awesome job! To me this is what mountain project is all about.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 22, 2010

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Comments: Damn, they blend in well. I almost stepped on a mother and her chicks on New York Mountain once because I couldn't see them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette
By: Rick Blair When: Dec 9, 2009

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Comments: George, fair enough, recommending a dead tree as an anchor may not be the most responsible comment I have left on this site. Anyone reading this, don't assume you are rapping off the same tree I did and don't rap off of dead trees in general;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Pellea (5.5 R)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: I can tell from the descriptions some others took a slightly different route, I stayed mainly towards the southern edge. Normally I take R ratings on the East face Flatiron routes with a grain of salt, this one deserves it. The lead running up to the first crux and the entirety of the second crux on the 3rd pitch is friction and 2-3 mm edges for holds, all with no pro.

The first pitch crux actually has good pro for the final big move, for me, leading the 3rd pitch was the hardest part. Bef... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.8 Crack (5.8)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: I just got a report from someone without an MP account that there is a hollow flake breaking apart on this route. If you have better beta please post up and I will remove this.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Left Handed Jew (5.8)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: The crux is truly comparable to other 5.8s I have done, so I feel the rating is fair. Big committing moves to get over reminiscent of bouldering but you can slide a cam in above the crux and put yourself on TR... so go for it. I climbed while it was a little damp, so I had to lean waaaay back to get feet.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rattlesnake Canyon
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: Get on the water near Fruita and take out at the base of Rattlesnake Canyon. This is one of the best hikes I have ever done! Obviously river access makes this a less traveled trail. Absolutely amazing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: The first part of the description is correct 100%. I started on the far South side but instead of heading right to the "left leaning crack" I kept going left and never found the crack until I was above it at the belay. What I found was a 50 foot run out that I was not happy with, even on easy rock. Head in a rightward direction from the start!

Easy though long approach and descent, good rock, plenty of good belay station options, sustained 5.5 friction climbing with a fun finish and rappel, t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Recon (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: P1 was good but the rest was OK. 5.6 crux near beginning, rest is easier, 5.4ish. I headed straight up to the second pitch of the bomb, does recon have an official second pitch? I think I went to the top the wrong way. I went straight to the top after the anchors, I think you want to first head east to better rock then go up. The 3rd pitch I did had some run out climbing near the top on really rotten red rock, I had to check every hold, though it is easy climbing. If you are going to do the 3r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: The slung horn and the pink tricam (red is an option here) in a tiny pocket are your only pro for the first ~60 feet, ground fall is a distinct possibility here. Just remember the #1 rule of climbing and you should be fine.... don't fall.

The route goes 120' to the tree at the top. I gave into the temptation to to go further and used all 60m of rope to get to a nice belay ledge farther up, but the rope drag was horrendous so I cannot recommend this, belay at the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: May 17, 2009

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Comments: The start in the description above was obvious but not the same as what Roach has in his book. Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: The hanger on the left bolt at the anchor at the top of Skunk Crack and Comeback Crack is siting off the rock about a centimeter. Based on some tapping on the bolt I would say it is definitely a little loose but with recent snow melt and water seepage, the state of that bolt is probably not going to improve. Bring a wrench.


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: Speaking from experience, unless he has someone available extremely competent to support a used, especially older, laptop he is better off with a new one. An Apple if he has an Apple store nearby is especially good, lots of free support. I am assuming he is inexperienced with computers.


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: I wonder what his avatar on MP will look like, hmmmmm...


Location: CO : Merry Christmas, Happy Hanu...
By: Rick Blair When: Dec 24, 2008

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Comments: Since my wife is from abroad as well, I know how you probably miss some of the Christmas traditions of your homeland. Merry Christmas to you as well John! Thanks for this web site and all you add to the climbing community here. It was great to meet you last week.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: I agree with Trey, what is the direct impact to climbing access? If this is going to go through does anyone have information to contact petroleum companies involved if that is where this is headed? I think we need to think a few steps ahead on this so that climbing access is not interfered with.

After the drills are gone, I have noticed that oil/gas pumps and storage usually are in small areas with a fence around them. Aside from the visual impact, the impact on climbing may be minimal. More... more >>


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: Well Ang, something made me laugh so hard when I first saw the logo, my imagination just went wild.

Seriously though, I appreciate your groups work. Email sent.

-Rick


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: I live on Stout so I think I have the approach nailed. South on Stout to Broadway, follow Broadway around to 18th ave. Without chalk marks I am unsure how to proceed after that. As far as pro goes, I think a rack of 25 size 0 Master Cams or similar sized aliens will do for a 60M rope and 3-4 point anchors at the (hanging) belays.

I have seen some guys up there doing some aid with really "old school" gear but I am not sure what the sticks with rubber strips on the end and the buckets are for.


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Mark,

Au Contraire, the side of that building is covered with polished, granite tiles.


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