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This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...


Member Since: Oct 16, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Rick Blair
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Total Points: 286
Last Year: 40
Last 30 Days: 36
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1457 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 71 | Posts 1245 | Stars 58 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This is the start I did, I went straight up that first face. If you were to walk uphill a few more feet, you will see an obvious ramp which is not obvious at this angle.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Wow! The green river banks against the layered sea of red rock, amazing photo.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Ranch Hand : Biscuits 'n' Gravy (5.4)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: Justin, I have a beta picture of the decent on the main Ranch Hand page. I think it goes pretty reasonably, very secure 4th class. I don't think it's worth leaving tat up there, but if you can't find the way down, by all means be safe.

Remember to pay attention to bird closures.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Shoreline Crag : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: I rated this photo 5 starts due to the fact that you took a great photo of an animal while it was trying to figure out how to eat you. Wow!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Such an awesome photo. I wish I could zoom in more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Park View Dome : Hey Ranger! (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: To avoid confusion, the correct route is the "prominent rib", the right of the 2 prominent ribs with aspens browning in between. If you look up, you will see the 2nd pitch headwall with the finger crack. The start is not at the base of the formation but uphill toward the start of the gully between Parkview and the Ranch Hand.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Park View Dome
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Ralph has the correct descent. Head toward the Ranch Hand, there is a great pine tree to rap off of slings. The gully appears to be down climbable with a lot of positive holds. It is mossy however and when I did it, there was a downpour and serious falling rock hazard. It is about a 25 Meter rap so almost a full 60 doubled. This is very reminiscent of some of the gnarly flatiron hike outs, not great but not the worst I have seen either.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: Most likely waiting for you to micturate so they could lap up the goods.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Please pan out so I can see this guy is really 3 feet off the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: This is an outstanding photo! Shows the adventures to be had in what amounts to a "city park."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : Billy Goat Arete (5.1)
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: With a 30 meter rope in 3 pitches: 100 feet to first nice belay ledge, 75 feet to second large belay ledge, 75 feet to top.

On descent, a 30 meter rope gets you to large ledge/platform 10 feet from walking territory. Easy 3rd class to the ground from there. There was a static rope around the huge summit block. This would make a good place for a chain anchor in my opinion.

Check out my beta photo on the main Hillbilly page for a much more civilized approach. Watch out for poison ivy!

2 s... more >>


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : The Bridge : HalfWay (5.7) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb and Fantastic photo, nice work!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Queen's Way (Steep Snow)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Slope measurements on the way up:
Entrance 30
Midway 38
Top 42
These were taken on my mountaineering axe laid on surfaces that appeared to best represent the overall slope. Likely there are localized areas of steeper snow and snow conditions would certainly change this. My visual slope readings from the moraines down below were around 45 degrees.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: The first 2 pitches were like an approach climb for the summit. After the start head out to the very edge for climbing about as exciting as 5.0 gets.

When I saw the final pitch it looked so improbable at easy 5th class, it has to be harder. Once you get on it, the holds just appear, you can literally "walk" across the traverse to the final moves. I would put this pitch at 4th class and one of the finest summits in the flatirons, a true classic! I protected the traverse with 3 bomber large fi... more >>


Location: CO : Rock Climbling Accidents: C...
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: What I got from it is that I am never going to climb under a party in their 20s from Australia....... when I'm in Boulder. It's probably ok in Australia.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : South Ridge (5.0)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Gerry Roach has this as F3 and Haas has it as 4th. I strongly disagree. I was intending a free solo but caught it after a rain so had to rope up the first half. I was also in approach shoes. Even accounting for those 2 things I think this requires much more thoughtful moves than Front Porch, Lost Porch, Freeway or S Ridge 1st Flatironette. On those you can grab and go, not so much on certain sections of this. I would say 5.2 but would have to come back with climbing shoes when its dry to v... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Julius had the same experience as I did. There is a small pocket halfway up the opening face that takes a red or pink tricam and is bomber, if you don't find that you only get one more piece near the top. In the Haas book, we are referring to the "East Face" route which matches the original route in Roach's book. This way appears much more exciting than the one listed above.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Southern Dinosaur Egg : Hatch (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: While not epic, climbing this will always be memorable for me. It was my first climb in 6 months. Classic Flatiron's approach, for a short climb there was a lot of adventure. Crack, real chimney moves if you choose to get down in there and nice face climbing. The first move off of the chockstone on the final pitch requires you to step out left onto a foot-sized foot hold with big exposure. Not having climbed for 6 months, this lead got my blood pumping! Great pro where needed but not much n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Southern Dinosaur Egg
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Based on the beta above, when I got to Bear Canyon, I followed a trail just south of the stream up a heavily eroded and dangerous steep slope expecting to find a semi-hidden climber trail, big mistake. The goal here is to gain the old road/trail by the power line ( actual Bear Canyon Trail). Had I known that, I would have headed further south where the Bear Canyon trail intersects the Mesa trail. Hike the Bear Canyon trail, and then descend from the Bear Canyon trail to the valley floor at th... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: Please see my above series of 3 photos to get started on the proper approach. Whomever did this knew what they were doing. These trail improvements are amazing. Much safer, I wonder how many ambulance calls there have been due to people ascending/descending the steep bank. No more beat up ropes for hand lines, no more erosion on the stream bank. If you need help for more trail work please PM me, I would love to help.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Bell Cord Couloir
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: In this huge snow year, this was a loooong climb. We brought 2 axes, and I was glad to have them. We were able to mix it up plunging both shafts, then some daggering even traversing was nice, because you didn't have to switch hands. The large runnel in the middle is created by falling ice and boulders, stay out. We started at 3am.

Slope:
35 degrees down low,
39 degrees typical,
43 degrees steepest.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: I think 5.4 is fair. We hit 3 cruxes, the first 5.2, second 5.4 and we did a 5.7 roof by choice simply because it was a shorter and more direct line. I believe those who say this can all be done 4th class, but often that will mean leaving the ridge proper.

Despite all the loose rock around, the climbing is actually quite solid, really great actually. I brought some bugaboos and knife blades, anywhere I could have placed them I would have simply been a stone mason. This rock fractures so para... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Lost Porch : Southeast Ridge (5.0)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Julius, my partner and I saw that gully and were tempted, but it looked dirty though doable. If you stick with the ridge, it is indeed 4th class, a little higher angle than the gully but clean.

This was an outstanding free solo. The position on the middle of the first face and the middle of the final face is dead vertical with huge huecos, runnels, and pockets with positive edges you can wrap your fingers around for every hold. How does this happen in nature? Amazing. To me, the crux is nav... more >>


Location: Phil Lauffen : pix : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: Your face says it all! When I get my son up there I let you know how it feels from the other side, gonna be a few years though.


Location: CO : Golden : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Coors Brewery is at the end of the rainbow? Do Leprechauns make the beer?


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