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This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!


Member Since: Oct 16, 2007
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,209
Total Points: 246
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1327 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvments | Comments 66 | Posts 1129 | Stars 56 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: The first part of the description is correct 100%. I started on the far South side but instead of heading right to the "left leaning crack" I kept going left and never found the crack until I was above it at the belay. What I found was a 50 foot run out that I was not happy with, even on easy rock. Head in a rightward direction from the start!

Easy though long approach and descent, good rock, plenty of good belay station options, sustained 5.5 friction climbing with a fun finish and rappel, t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Recon (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: P1 was good but the rest was OK. 5.6 crux near beginning, rest is easier, 5.4ish. I headed straight up to the second pitch of the bomb, does recon have an official second pitch? I think I went to the top the wrong way. I went straight to the top after the anchors, I think you want to first head east to better rock then go up. The 3rd pitch I did had some run out climbing near the top on really rotten red rock, I had to check every hold, though it is easy climbing. If you are going to do the 3r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: The slung horn and the pink tricam (red is an option here) in a tiny pocket are your only pro for the first ~60 feet, ground fall is a distinct possibility here. Just remember the #1 rule of climbing and you should be fine.... don't fall.

The route goes 120' to the tree at the top. I gave into the temptation to to go further and used all 60m of rope to get to a nice belay ledge farther up, but the rope drag was horrendous so I cannot recommend this, belay at the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: May 17, 2009

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Comments: The start in the description above was obvious but not the same as what Roach has in his book. Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: The hanger on the left bolt at the anchor at the top of Skunk Crack and Comeback Crack is siting off the rock about a centimeter. Based on some tapping on the bolt I would say it is definitely a little loose but with recent snow melt and water seepage, the state of that bolt is probably not going to improve. Bring a wrench.


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: Speaking from experience, unless he has someone available extremely competent to support a used, especially older, laptop he is better off with a new one. An Apple if he has an Apple store nearby is especially good, lots of free support. I am assuming he is inexperienced with computers.


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Blair When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: I wonder what his avatar on MP will look like, hmmmmm...


Location: CO : Merry Christmas, Happy Hanu...
By: Rick Blair When: Dec 24, 2008

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Comments: Since my wife is from abroad as well, I know how you probably miss some of the Christmas traditions of your homeland. Merry Christmas to you as well John! Thanks for this web site and all you add to the climbing community here. It was great to meet you last week.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: I agree with Trey, what is the direct impact to climbing access? If this is going to go through does anyone have information to contact petroleum companies involved if that is where this is headed? I think we need to think a few steps ahead on this so that climbing access is not interfered with.

After the drills are gone, I have noticed that oil/gas pumps and storage usually are in small areas with a fence around them. Aside from the visual impact, the impact on climbing may be minimal. More... more >>


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: Well Ang, something made me laugh so hard when I first saw the logo, my imagination just went wild.

Seriously though, I appreciate your groups work. Email sent.

-Rick


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: I live on Stout so I think I have the approach nailed. South on Stout to Broadway, follow Broadway around to 18th ave. Without chalk marks I am unsure how to proceed after that. As far as pro goes, I think a rack of 25 size 0 Master Cams or similar sized aliens will do for a 60M rope and 3-4 point anchors at the (hanging) belays.

I have seen some guys up there doing some aid with really "old school" gear but I am not sure what the sticks with rubber strips on the end and the buckets are for.


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Mark,

Au Contraire, the side of that building is covered with polished, granite tiles.


Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: You guys got climbing access to the Wells Fargo "Cash Register Building"!!! Sweet! I live just 7 blocks away. Anyone have any beta?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fatiron : ... : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: Roach describes what is shown here as an F6 variation. The route according to Roach goes 20-30 feet right of the crack. There is pro there and in the crack though what is pictured here is a more "natural" line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fatiron : ... : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: We did this part with a 60M rope in 2 pitches and started lower so our belays were in different places. The important part of this photo is the orange line. You want your 2nd pitch to work its way toward that area staying left of the crack. We went way to the right and it was extremely licheny and chossy. Bleh!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Spike Rock : Spike Mantle (V2)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 4, 2008

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Comments: Short but sweet! Not often I get to mantle like this. There is a picture on page 34 of "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills" by Craig Luebben. The guy in the picture sequence sticks his right elbow straight in the air, leverages, matches his other hand and tops out by bringing up his foot. Awesome. I did it facing completely the opposite way. I am going to bring the book with me and see if I can copy his way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 1, 2008

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Comments: I reluctantly gave this a PG-13, there are run-outs but they only occur where the climbing is easiest. I started P1 near the ridge but at the end had to traverse way left for the only suitable belay anchor pro. After you start P1, look and aim for the trees, there are some great belay spots there! Run the rope out all the way! 60m. Make P3 short and belay in the gully, from there follow the finger crack on P4 to the top, great crack! I clipped an enormous bong on P4, that thing is old and ev... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: After you get to the top of the first Flatironette, if you look down the gully between it and the Spy you will see a large dead tree. The tree is completely denuded of bark, totally smooth and made a great rap anchor. The rope pulled flawlessly. Be sure to knot the ends of your rope because the rap ends at 4th class climbing, a 70m will go to the bottom. If you take it easy on the tree and keep your rope running as close to the base as possible, there will be many years of rapping left for th... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Lover's Leap (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: A shoe-sized rock landed 3 feet away from me at the bottom of the last rap, keep your helmet on!

Fun route, the 2nd pitch is long and fun! I have only lead a few 5.8s and this crux move felt as hard, but the gear is so excellent (reach way up and place a cam, you are basically TRed ) that I would not let this discourage a 5.7 leader or 5.6 for that matter. It's one move and you are over, I am 6' tall, if you are taller this will be easier. If you like this, you will like Mount Thorodin. I a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Crack (5.2)
By: Rick Blair When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: I am not incredibly brave and I found the approach not too scary, I thought it was over-hyped, my second disagrees. I went to the left and built an anchor south of the tree, the pictures lead me to believe I should finish at the cable, did I do a variation? Hmmmm. This is the steepest, longest, most sustained, airiest pitch I have climbed at this level but I can't argue too much with the rating because the holds are all there, I did it in approach shoes. Feels much more intimidating to me than ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Mt Thorodin : CMC Route (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Sep 14, 2008

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Comments: Started on crack at dead tree, on the way up I noticed the crack to the left looked better/cleaner. I saw some webbing around a tree on that route so maybe someone used that for a rap route. I could almost give this 3 stars for the scenery, interesting climbing and fun approach. The negatives were the circuitous walk-off and the vegetation and lichen on the route. The day I climbed was preceded by a snow fall on the high peaks, the views were breathtaking and I could see downtown Denver from... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Spain
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 6, 2008

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Comments: It will be great to see this part of the site get filled. I have never gone climbing there but I can concur that the country is full of climbable rock, at least where I have been. This country should be a climbing Mecca. Madrid and Andalusia start hitting the mid 90s in May so they are probably incredible winter destinations. Hopefully I will be posting some routes from there some day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Let it Vee (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 30, 2008

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Comments: No one mentioned the nice laybacking starting half way. Fun route! Lots of loose rocks at belay ledge, watch out! I knocked a few down.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: I did not rate this, because I am quite sure I was off route quite often. On the hike-in look for the green, metal stake with the white band for the trail to Skunk Canyon off the main trail. It is on a switchback below the wood fence which is on the next switchback above. It looks like the wood fence is there to discourage hikers from going that way due to erosion. Stay in the gully all the way to the Ridge of Angel's Way. If you find yourself climbing or scrambling, you are off course!

Run you... more >>


Contributed News

Title Location Submitted By Date
Denver Parks Forum at Red Rocks on October 13th!CORick BlairSep 22, 2008
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