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This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...


Member Since: Oct 16, 2007
Last Visit: 26 mins ago
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Rick Blair
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Total Points: 270
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 22
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1420 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 1216 | Stars 56 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Julius had the same experience as I did. There is a small pocket halfway up the opening face that takes a red or pink tricam and is bomber, if you don't find that you only get one more piece near the top. In the Haas book, we are referring to the "East Face" route which matches the original route in Roach's book. This way appears much more exciting than the one listed above.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Southern Dinosaur Egg : Hatch (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: While not epic, climbing this will always be memorable for me. It was my first climb in 6 months. Classic Flatiron's approach, for a short climb there was a lot of adventure. Crack, real chimney moves if you choose to get down in there and nice face climbing. The first move off of the chockstone on the final pitch requires you to step out left onto a foot-sized foot hold with big exposure. Not having climbed for 6 months, this lead got my blood pumping! Great pro where needed but not much n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Southern Dinosaur Egg
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Based on the beta above, when I got to Bear Canyon, I followed a trail just south of the stream up a heavily eroded and dangerous steep slope expecting to find a semi-hidden climber trail, big mistake. The goal here is to gain the old road/trail by the power line ( actual Bear Canyon Trail). Had I known that, I would have headed further south where the Bear Canyon trail intersects the Mesa trail. Hike the Bear Canyon trail, and then descend from the Bear Canyon trail to the valley floor at th... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: Please see my above series of 3 photos to get started on the proper approach. Whomever did this knew what they were doing. These trail improvements are amazing. Much safer, I wonder how many ambulance calls there have been due to people ascending/descending the steep bank. No more beat up ropes for hand lines, no more erosion on the stream bank. If you need help for more trail work please PM me, I would love to help.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Bell Cord Couloir
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: In this huge snow year, this was a loooong climb. We brought 2 axes, and I was glad to have them. We were able to mix it up plunging both shafts, then some daggering even traversing was nice, because you didn't have to switch hands. The large runnel in the middle is created by falling ice and boulders, stay out. We started at 3am.

Slope:
35 degrees down low,
39 degrees typical,
43 degrees steepest.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: I think 5.4 is fair. We hit 3 cruxes, the first 5.2, second 5.4 and we did a 5.7 roof by choice simply because it was a shorter and more direct line. I believe those who say this can all be done 4th class, but often that will mean leaving the ridge proper.

Despite all the loose rock around, the climbing is actually quite solid, really great actually. I brought some bugaboos and knife blades, anywhere I could have placed them I would have simply been a stone mason. This rock fractures so para... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Lost Porch : Southeast Ridge (5.0)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: Julius, my partner and I saw that gully and were tempted, but it looked dirty though doable. If you stick with the ridge, it is indeed 4th class, a little higher angle than the gully but clean.

This was an outstanding free solo. The position on the middle of the first face and the middle of the final face is dead vertical with huge huecos, runnels, and pockets with positive edges you can wrap your fingers around for every hold. How does this happen in nature? Amazing. To me, the crux is nav... more >>


Location: Phil Lauffen : pix : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: Your face says it all! When I get my son up there I let you know how it feels from the other side, gonna be a few years though.


Location: CO : Golden : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Coors Brewery is at the end of the rainbow? Do Leprechauns make the beer?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : 2 Minutes? That's IT? (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: I love the route description and the comment above as well, good stuff! You sucked me in with the opening sentence. Congratulations for putting your name on an FA in one of the most famous climbing areas in the country! Did you fight over who would get to lead it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : ... : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Interesting... where is the rope going? Top rope??? Anyway, this is the obvious face right off the trail and the way I would recommend. Fire up towards that tree.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : ... : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 10, 2011

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Comments: Yeah Phil, and the one in the middle is cute and has nice teeth, this picture may not actually be from England.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos... : Shrike (5.12b/c R) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: That is an amazing stance he is holding. 1988... Bad Ass.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: Incredible photo! Almost makes me think of an oil painting when viewed in smaller size.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : East Face/Achean Pronouncem... (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Pitons are not present at the top of P3. They are not needed anyway, plenty of pro. I linked the 1st and part of 2nd pitch in approach shoes, if it's 5.7, then just barely. I would recommend linking first 3 pitches into 2 pitches. The start of P1 is the crux so use your own judgment. P4 is 5.2 climbing BUT... very rotten, every hold is questionable, and there is no pro that will actually hold a fall until you get to a bomber threadable hole ~80 ft out on the ridge.

This was a fun climb, I ... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: Climbing shirtless with fresh snow in the background sums up a lot about Colorado for me.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: I contacted one of the local SAR guys by email. He thinks the route I did was the actual original route making rangerdrew's beta photo the picture of the original start. He thinks Wes's route was a rescue route and the anchors he encountered were left over from a rescue on Ye Old Hysterical. I went to the AMC library to find some old beta to clear this up, I think I had the correct route, but either way there appears to be 2 distinct routes here.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Wow, I can't wait to see comments on future routes for this area based on how the first one was received. You claim that bolting this area was discussed with the climbing community but I noticed everyone on this web site left very negative critiques including a major guide in the area. I wonder how that happened?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: Ok, that was me performing the ridiculous moves John is talking about above. I jammed my way up and got a #1 Camalot high in the crack instead of clipping the ring piton, bomber placement. The crack is very flared, so good jams were not easy to come by. Is it possible I plugged a cam into a necessary handhold that would have kept this easier? Maybe a better alternative would have been a layback? A fall from here, with good pro, would be very clean as you are overhanging, none the less ... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Green Giant Buttress : Dreamer (5.9) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: I see... obviously a Greatful Dead poster.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Knight With a Shining Stick (A3) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: That is one ballsy line! Good on you! You look very calm in the photo.... I bet that was not the case.... LOL!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Guide's Route (5.6)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I was following another pair of climber who combined P1 & P2. Don't do it with a 60m! They made it to the 3 piton belay just fine, I had to have my second climb up a little to reach. For P3, I went straight up the 5.8 roof crack to avoid rope drag. It was awesome! Fun moves. Easy/good pro, go for it. Stuck cam is still there.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I had to back off and clean the hand/fist crack on P2 for the sake of a follower, it felt 5.7 to me. Wish I could have gone that way because the rope drag going left on the ledge was horrendous. For a new follower, just pitch it out and belay from the huge ledge and do a short 3rd pitch to the top. Great easy lead!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: I loved this route more than the Lover's Leap Center route. Definitely two 5.6 cruxes on P1 and another on P2 IMO. This climb has an adventurous feel. P1 there was tons of lichen and moss, lots of loose rock, vegetation, rope drag, what's not to love? Surely I was off route... until I found the bolt hangers at the belay ledge. P2 I was wandering all over, I must have been off route... until I found the bolt hangers out on the slab belay. P3 was like the 3rd Flatiron to the top.

Maybe it w... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Gore Mountain Range : Buffalo Mountain : South Side of Buffalo Pinna... (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rick Blair When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up. Awesome job! To me this is what mountain project is all about.


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