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This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...


Member Since: Oct 16, 2007
Last Visit: 13 mins ago
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Rick Blair
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Point Rank: # 2,268
Total Points: 270
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 24
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1420 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 1216 | Stars 56 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Papa's hair works great for balance while putting ...

Papa's hair works great for balance while putting on gear.

Rick Blair : Kids

Oct 27, 2010

I chose this for P1 up to the large block with the...

I chose this for P1 up to the large block with the little tree, ~35m. Comfy belay spot and you can talk to your second. The second pitch will get you 6 feet below the very peak of the south pinnacl

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face/First Flatironett... (5.2)

Jul 15, 2010

Margaret leading right after the P1 crux and the f...

Margaret leading right after the P1 crux and the fixed ring piton. When I lead it, I could reach with my 35" arms to the right and place a cam. Don't know what the protectable crack to the righ

CO : South Platte : ... : Guide's Route (5.6)

Jul 15, 2010

This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...

This is a novel auto blocking belay device. I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth. Great to lower with. You gotta love over engineering.

Rick Blair : Random Stuff

Jul 15, 2010

From the Trango B52 FAQ

From the Trango B52 FAQ

Rick Blair : Random Stuff

Jun 30, 2009

Me rappeling off of the final peak of the Fatiron....

Me rappeling off of the final peak of the Fatiron. Nov 2008.

Rick Blair : Flatirons

Dec 11, 2008

First belay on Mount Thorodin CMC route. Did I rea...

First belay on Mount Thorodin CMC route. Did I really need to extend that runner? ooops! Sept 2008

Rick Blair : Alpine Adventures

Dec 11, 2008

Camping spot next to the bowl of tears. We had gia...

Camping spot next to the bowl of tears. We had giant boulder above to protect from rock fall. July 6 2008 about 5:45am. Amazing when the sun came up. Beautiful.

Rick Blair : Alpine Adventures

Dec 9, 2008

John Brooks (right) and I atop Mount of the Holy C...

John Brooks (right) and I atop Mount of the Holy Cross. Triumphant after our ascent of the Cross Couloir. I think Dave was taking the picture. July 6 2008

Rick Blair : Alpine Adventures

Dec 4, 2008

Me rap'ing from the 3rd.  Taken by John Brooks. Oc...

Me rap'ing from the 3rd. Taken by John Brooks. Oct 2007

Rick Blair : Flatirons

Dec 4, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Wow! The green river banks against the layered sea of red rock, amazing photo.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Ranch Hand : Biscuits 'n' Gravy (5.4)
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: Justin, I have a beta picture of the decent on the main Ranch Hand page. I think it goes pretty reasonably, very secure 4th class. I don't think it's worth leaving tat up there, but if you can't find the way down, by all means be safe.

Remember to pay attention to bird closures.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Shoreline Crag : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: I rated this photo 5 starts due to the fact that you took a great photo of an animal while it was trying to figure out how to eat you. Wow!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Such an awesome photo. I wish I could zoom in more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Park View Dome : Hey Ranger! (5.5)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: To avoid confusion, the correct route is the "prominent rib", the right of the 2 prominent ribs with aspens browning in between. If you look up, you will see the 2nd pitch headwall with the finger crack. The start is not at the base of the formation but uphill toward the start of the gully between Parkview and the Ranch Hand.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Park View Dome
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Ralph has the correct descent. Head toward the Ranch Hand, there is a great pine tree to rap off of slings. The gully appears to be down climbable with a lot of positive holds. It is mossy however and when I did it, there was a downpour and serious falling rock hazard. It is about a 25 Meter rap so almost a full 60 doubled. This is very reminiscent of some of the gnarly flatiron hike outs, not great but not the worst I have seen either.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: Most likely waiting for you to micturate so they could lap up the goods.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Please pan out so I can see this guy is really 3 feet off the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: This is an outstanding photo! Shows the adventures to be had in what amounts to a "city park."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : Billy Goat Arete (5.1)
By: Rick Blair When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: With a 30 meter rope in 3 pitches: 100 feet to first nice belay ledge, 75 feet to second large belay ledge, 75 feet to top.

On descent, a 30 meter rope gets you to large ledge/platform 10 feet from walking territory. Easy 3rd class to the ground from there. There was a static rope around the huge summit block. This would make a good place for a chain anchor in my opinion.

Check out my beta photo on the main Hillbilly page for a much more civilized approach. Watch out for poison ivy!

2 s... more >>


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : The Bridge : HalfWay (5.7) : Photo
By: Rick Blair When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb and Fantastic photo, nice work!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Queen's Way (Steep Snow)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Slope measurements on the way up:
Entrance 30
Midway 38
Top 42
These were taken on my mountaineering axe laid on surfaces that appeared to best represent the overall slope. Likely there are localized areas of steeper snow and snow conditions would certainly change this. My visual slope readings from the moraines down below were around 45 degrees.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: The first 2 pitches were like an approach climb for the summit. After the start head out to the very edge for climbing about as exciting as 5.0 gets.

When I saw the final pitch it looked so improbable at easy 5th class, it has to be harder. Once you get on it, the holds just appear, you can literally "walk" across the traverse to the final moves. I would put this pitch at 4th class and one of the finest summits in the flatirons, a true classic! I protected the traverse with 3 bomber large fi... more >>


Location: CO : Rock Climbling Accidents: C...
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: What I got from it is that I am never going to climb under a party in their 20s from Australia....... when I'm in Boulder. It's probably ok in Australia.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : South Ridge (5.0)
By: Rick Blair When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Gerry Roach has this as F3 and Haas has it as 4th. I strongly disagree. I was intending a free solo but caught it after a rain so had to rope up the first half. I was also in approach shoes. Even accounting for those 2 things I think this requires much more thoughtful moves than Front Porch, Lost Porch, Freeway or S Ridge 1st Flatironette. On those you can grab and go, not so much on certain sections of this. I would say 5.2 but would have to come back with climbing shoes when its dry to v... more >>


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