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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 107
Total Points: 4,073
Last Year: 859
Last 30 Days: 38
167 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2842 | Routes 134 | Areas 26 | Photos 389 | Page Improvements | Comments 396 | Posts 87 | Stars 1635 | Ratings 175
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Panama Red (5.11c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 23, 2012

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Comments: ^^^ lots of talk for an anonymous coward.

Great climb, very sharp, and sustained from the first horizontal until the upper jugs. IMO the crux was getting established on the face/seam after the horizontal crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Phelp's Chevrolet (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 23, 2012

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Comments: Gritty, nasty rock for most of the climb, questionable pro, powerful roof. What the heck - I'll give it two stars for "character"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Crack of Noon (V3)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: My opinion - SANDBAG. I can't even get off the ground on this one, which is likely the crux. Always wondered why I've never seen chalk above the first tips lock..


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Shelf Ridge (Couch Rock)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Aren't there some access issues with this place? The Edwards guide seems to suggest so. It would be prudent of you to include any crag access issues on this page, Alexander.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Ponderosa Wall / Black Towe... : Blazing Saddles (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Runout off the first bolt isn't too bad as the climbing eases significantly in grade. Still, you don't want to fall or you'll splatter.

A walk-off also exists if you don't want to rappel off the tat on the bolt hangers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Ponderosa Wall / Black Towe... : Coyote Crack (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Grainy and short, with one 5.9 move off the deck leading to 5.7 fingers-hands.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Ponderosa Wall / Black Towe... : Virginia City (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Slab-tastic! A nice contrast between the lower juggy face and the upper, hold-less slab. It's painfully obvious that the first few bolts were placed on rappel, while the upper half was perfectly protected at stances by the old trad-daddies (Bob and Todd).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Ponderosa Wall / Black Towe... : Hop Sing (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Pretty nice for the grade. The slashes on the left wall of the crack make perfect hand-jam constrictions for the duration of the climb. This would be a great route for a budding leader to learn how to place hexes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Overnight Sensation (5.11b)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: A bit grainy to be considered a true classic, but an excellent line nonetheless. Crux is definitely passing the last bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Party in the Desert (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: ^^^ "maybe not even .11b."

Get real, dude. My girlfriend did the move first try and she's no .11b climber. One left sidepull with foot in opposition gets you onto a better right foot and then the crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Wild Wild West (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: First bolt spins in the hole, and the nut can't be tightened. It won't likely pull out, just be warned.

Knee-barring up the chimney to the second bolt seemed like the natural line to me. I'd still give the slab part .10d though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Comfortably Numb (5.11)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 10, 2012

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Comments: Wanted to give this one a go last weekend, but was a bit dismayed at the sight of splattered blood EVERYWHERE at the base of the route. Looks like a man (or woman) was recently eaten alive by this OW..


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 10, 2012

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Comments: Bolts were replaced by Tucker Tech and friend last weekend, 12/08.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Jungle Cruise (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 10, 2012

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Comments: Some small wires and finger-size cams are necessary for protecting the short but demanding crux at the start of the crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Enchanted Stairway (5.9 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 10, 2012

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Comments: Take the fun crack line instead of going out left to the forced bolt. Done this way, this is one of the best long "easy" pitches in the park. 45+ meters long. The upper face is a blast! Huge holds!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Icon (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 10, 2012

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Comments: Well worth the 1.5-2 hour approach. The rock is patina'ed to the point of being slippery smooth. New webbing and leaver 'biner at the anchor to facilitate rappel as of 12/2012. Nothing smaller than 0.5/0.75 Camelot needed for the lead. Pretty steep - the rappel is free hanging.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Mountain Devil Dike (5.12d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Nicely done, Brad! I've done the MSMR next door, and I can only assume this line is of similar quality, albeit substantially more difficult.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Nuclear Reactor Rock : Nuke the Whales (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: Nowhere near as good as Colorado Crack. Some fun movement and good length, but the EXTREMELY coarse nature of the rock is a huge detractor. Very painful jamming, even with tape. Maybe worthwhile if you happen to be camped at Jumbo, want to do something other than Conan's Corridor or Zebra Cliffs, are lazy, and don't feel like driving to climb something better. I certainly won't be coming back.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Rain Dance (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: According to Randy's guide, this route (Rain Dance) is only 5.8 and 0/5 stars. Alan must have got this description mixed up with Knack.

Admin request - can we clean up this confusing mess?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Knack (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: This route is pretty stout considering its meager 30' length. 2 or 3 pieces in the finger sizes is all you should need for the lead. 1-2.5" for the anchor, scramble down to climbers right.

5.10c in Randy's guide and 2/5 stars. Seems that it is 5.10+/11a (NOT .10b) based on my experience and comments under the misgraded Rain Dance page here. Worthwhile if you're already here for Perpetual Motion, but certainly not a destination climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Hey, that's me at the belay! Thanks for the nice pic, Johnny!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Control (5.12c R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Rusty 1/4" buttonheads with Leeper hangers and ancient rap slings at the belay.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Dunce Cap
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone else noticed the hueco filled with large bone shards on the summit? At first glance, I figured it was a raptor roost, but there is no poop anywhere. On further inspection, the bone pieces are quite large, so unlikely that a bird carried it up there. Methinks a bighorn sheep managed to summit the formation, and forgot his rope for the mandatory rappel, perishing on the summit. Wild.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Dunce Cap : The Dunce Cap (5.10c R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: The bolt appears to be a 3/8" rawl type (hex head), but is unfortunately matched with a rusty Leeper hanger. I'm not sure that stick-clipping the bolt erases the R factor, either. There are some dicey 5.10 friction moves at the end of the traverse gaining the thin crack - blow it here and you're looking at a big penji back into the starting boulder. Have your belayer pay out some extra slack with hopes that if you peel, you might swing beneath the block on clean face instead of crashing directly... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Respect (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux.


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