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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 105
Total Points: 4,035
Last Year: 823
Last 30 Days: 98
163 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2814 | Routes 134 | Areas 26 | Photos 382 | Page Improvements | Comments 395 | Posts 87 | Stars 1619 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: West Gr... : First Crag : Peril (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: A very contrived route where one is forced to climb right or left of the bolt line by 6 feet or more at times. The crux itself is really just a one-move wonder, and very reachy (or dynamic for the height deficient folks).


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: West Gr... : First Crag : She Broke It (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: The upper half of this route is really fun, but unfortunately suffers from a very forced start on crappy holds. One could climb right or left or the line by just a few feet. And as far as the comment above about "placing to high bolt to make it a more serious lead"... what a bunch of crap. Stick clip the damn bolt, this is sport climbing. A top-down, rap bolted route with a purposely intended runout? Get real, that isn't "serious", that's called contrived boldness. Rant over.

A better line woul... more >>


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: East Gr... : Crackland : Iraqy Cracky (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: The rock quality and climbing deteriorate quickly after the first 10 feet, and most of the protection would be worthless anyway. This one is probably best left as a toprope - or - just boulder the fun start and jump off/downclimb after the goods.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Middle Troll : South Face (5.8 Mod. Snow)
By: Richard Shore When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: The first three pitches are very chossy. Expect mud, lichen, moss, and gravel climbing; marginal gear; if you try it too early in the season, snow and ice as well. I found a small axe to be handy for clearing snow and chopping steps. Do yourself a favor and climb the snow gully all the way up to the alternate start, cutting out the first 2.5 pitches.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : The Throne : West Face Cracks (5.10a Easy Snow)
By: Richard Shore When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: The rightmost of three cracks, not described here, is an excellent 5.10b/c corner with a fun roof just before the anchor (3/8" bolt and equalized nut).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Mostly good 3/8" bolts on the bolt ladder pitch. Some are homemade hangers, some odd (but fat!) bolts; I pushed two of the loose rawls back in their holes which were sticking out ~1". Not much to worry about if leading since there are TONS of bolts, but may be a cause for concern if you solo the route with daisies like I did. Don't pull outward!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: This route is not listed in the Raptor Closures for 2013, but there are a pair of nesting hawks with 4 eggs in the crack before the second set of bolted anchors as of April. Please stay off the route so as not to disturb them further.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Bring at least four #3 camalots. Even with this and three #2s I soloed the first 30 feet before placing a piece to conserve gear. Large hands will love this route. Enduro hands/cups is definitely harder than the supposed crux up top. Move fast!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : The Trojan Arete (V8+)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: For one of the most visually striking and hardest highballs in SB, we get no description?

Try this one on for size:

Hard moves right from the get-go, 5.12c. Sit-start reportedly goes at 5.13a. Power your way up the proud arÍte that overhangs the road by 8 feet. Most mortals will take advantage of the single bolt anchor up top for top-roping. Whether you TR or highball, plan on using some traffic control and avoid trying this during rush hour. According to O11, this line has never seen an unreh... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain - East : Dog Police (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 20, 2013

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Comments: Simply outstanding! One of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Too bad nobody goes up there... bit of a bushwhack, 4th class approach. I trundled a handful of large loose blocks from the optional belay ledge while on rappel. The rap anchor could definitely use some love too - bring a knife and a good length of tan or green color cord/webbing to replace the rat's nest on the fixed nuts up there. 2-60M ropes will let you rap past the 4th class approach. We totally expected a nightmare of stuck ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: I agree wholeheartedly with EVERYTHING Bob just said.

I'm not much of a boulderer, but here are some examples of failed epoxy jobs on SB sport climbs - where the reinforced holds broke anyway:

-Beggars Banquet 5.11+, 7 Falls
-Titanium Albatross 5.12, 7 Falls
-To Epoxy or Not to Be 5.13?, Earthwatch Wall
-practically everything at The Amphitheater 5.12-5.14, Playground area.

Notice that there aren't any easy or moderate routes in that list? This plays into the "elitist" idea mentioned above.
... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: First pitch is 1995 Budget Closure 5.11a


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Squash (V3)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: The name I have heard some people call this problem is "Nemesis" - V4 for the straight up finish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: There appear to be at least 3 bolted (newer?) routes in this area, right off the main trail. None of these are in the guidebooks, and none of them were the "Christmas Tree Arete" which I was looking for. Anybody have beta on these lines?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Remain in Light (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I had more fun on this one than the "classic" Treasures of the Sierra Madre next door. Impeccable rock quality on a rather long line. Don't expect much for supplemental gear - a piece or two can be had in the initial crack, then traverse out to the arÍte and clip the two bolts. A tiny nut/cam can be placed high above the second bolt. Probably not X, but definitely R. Be solid at the grade before attempting this one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : That's Powell Not Rowell (5.10a PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Some fun steep hand-jamming to be had here. I cleaned a bunch of loose rock out of the lower crack, should be more enjoyable for future parties. The huge block seems solid, right? I yarded on it anyway..

To descend - step across the void to climber's right (wise to stay roped up for this), onto the next summit, then descend one of several gully/chimney systems between the towers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Tiger Rocks : Fly Away (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: My first time doing an OW inversion move, and probably my last.

If you're wondering "should I lieback, or go upside down?" - consider my epic. I slotted my left foot like a nut in the crack above the lip, and was stuck hanging upside down solely by my left foot/ankle for nearly 10 min. I managed to free myself by lassoing the horn above with a 4' sling and pulling myself to freedom. A #5 camalot would also save you from this fate.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Eva Las Vegas (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Slightly intimidating through the first 3 bolts - you could fall off the arete into space below! Equally cruxy for the follower, too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Matt Gay (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Looks like Todd added a 5th bolt at the start - no need for the tiny cam mentioned above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Diamonds are Forever (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Thought this was the hardest of the three "5.10d's" I did in the Bond Boulders area. Awkward, off-balance moves up the dike.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor... (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Bolted anchor indicated in the guide and here is GONE. Belay up top with gear and descend via the standard gully scramble down the middle of Fraggle Rock


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Stairway to Kevin (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Every other bolt (2 and 4) is garbage. The crux is convincing yourself they will hold a fall on this sandbagged route. Solid 5.9, maybe harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Scattered Remains (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Agree that this felt soft, even for the new 5.10d grade. Pretty fun route, nice and steep. Lots of loose flakes and grainy rock inside the crack lend to TRing over leading though, at least for me. Anchor can be built with a long cord using the big oak tree and a few 3" cams. Helmet for the belayer!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : Freckle Face (5.11a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: One-move thin crux leads to long and steep 5.10 jug haul.

It's a little exposed getting to the anchors if TR-ing - I wouldn't recommend leading it on those rusty Leeper hangers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Hand Grenade Corridor : Hand Grenade (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice obscure route, clean finger-to-hand jams in a shallow RF corner. IMO one of the best of the Stirrup Tank area. Good patina rock on the steep lower half - polished and slick. The difficulties and the rock quality decrease a bit up higher. Shares a bolted rap anchor for another route up top. Single rope rappel to climber's right.


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