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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 111
Total Points: 3,806
Last Year: 595
Last 30 Days: 62
143 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2744 | Routes 132 | Areas 25 | Photos 345 | Page Improvments | Comments 386 | Posts 87 | Stars 1600 | Ratings 169
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain - East : Dog Police (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 20, 2013

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Comments: Simply outstanding! One of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Too bad nobody goes up there... bit of a bushwhack, 4th class approach. I trundled a handful of large loose blocks from the optional belay ledge while on rappel. The rap anchor could definitely use some love too - bring a knife and a good length of tan or green color cord/webbing to replace the rat's nest on the fixed nuts up there. 2-60M ropes will let you rap past the 4th class approach. We totally expected a nightmare of stuck ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: I agree wholeheartedly with EVERYTHING Bob just said.

I'm not much of a boulderer, but here are some examples of failed epoxy jobs on SB sport climbs - where the reinforced holds broke anyway:

-Beggars Banquet 5.11+, 7 Falls
-Titanium Albatross 5.12, 7 Falls
-To Epoxy or Not to Be 5.13?, Earthwatch Wall
-practically everything at The Amphitheater 5.12-5.14, Playground area.

Notice that there aren't any easy or moderate routes in that list? This plays into the "elitist" idea mentioned above.
... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: First pitch is 1995 Budget Closure 5.11a


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Squash (V3)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: The name I have heard some people call this problem is "Nemesis" - V4 for the straight up finish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: There appear to be at least 3 bolted (newer?) routes in this area, right off the main trail. None of these are in the guidebooks, and none of them were the "Christmas Tree Arete" which I was looking for. Anybody have beta on these lines?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Remain in Light (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I had more fun on this one than the "classic" Treasures of the Sierra Madre next door. Impeccable rock quality on a rather long line. Don't expect much for supplemental gear - a piece or two can be had in the initial crack, then traverse out to the arÍte and clip the two bolts. A tiny nut/cam can be placed high above the second bolt. Probably not X, but definitely R. Be solid at the grade before attempting this one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : That's Powell Not Rowell (5.10a PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Some fun steep hand-jamming to be had here. I cleaned a bunch of loose rock out of the lower crack, should be more enjoyable for future parties. The huge block seems solid, right? I yarded on it anyway..

To descend - step across the void to climber's right (wise to stay roped up for this), onto the next summit, then descend one of several gully/chimney systems between the towers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Tiger Rocks : Fly Away (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: My first time doing an OW inversion move, and probably my last.

If you're wondering "should I lieback, or go upside down?" - consider my epic. I slotted my left foot like a nut in the crack above the lip, and was stuck hanging upside down solely by my left foot/ankle for nearly 10 min. I managed to free myself by lassoing the horn above with a 4' sling and pulling myself to freedom. A #5 camalot would also save you from this fate.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Eva Las Vegas (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Slightly intimidating through the first 3 bolts - you could fall off the arete into space below! Equally cruxy for the follower, too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Matt Gay (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Looks like Todd added a 5th bolt at the start - no need for the tiny cam mentioned above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Diamonds are Forever (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Thought this was the hardest of the three "5.10d's" I did in the Bond Boulders area. Awkward, off-balance moves up the dike.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor... (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Bolted anchor indicated in the guide and here is GONE. Belay up top with gear and descend via the standard gully scramble down the middle of Fraggle Rock


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Stairway to Kevin (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Every other bolt (2 and 4) is garbage. The crux is convincing yourself they will hold a fall on this sandbagged route. Solid 5.9, maybe harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Scattered Remains (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Agree that this felt soft, even for the new 5.10d grade. Pretty fun route, nice and steep. Lots of loose flakes and grainy rock inside the crack lend to TRing over leading though, at least for me. Anchor can be built with a long cord using the big oak tree and a few 3" cams. Helmet for the belayer!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : Freckle Face (5.11a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: One-move thin crux leads to long and steep 5.10 jug haul.

It's a little exposed getting to the anchors if TR-ing - I wouldn't recommend leading it on those rusty Leeper hangers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Hand Grenade Corridor : Hand Grenade (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice obscure route, clean finger-to-hand jams in a shallow RF corner. IMO one of the best of the Stirrup Tank area. Good patina rock on the steep lower half - polished and slick. The difficulties and the rock quality decrease a bit up higher. Shares a bolted rap anchor for another route up top. Single rope rappel to climber's right.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : Heavy Gold (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Very obvious line just right of the main Crocodile Rock, starting on a ledge behind a prominent tree. Excellent gold-colored stone on the left wall.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : Claim Jumper (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: 3/8" bolts; unfortunately matched with rusted and thin Leeper hangers.

Good route (on TR at least)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : B-Movie (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: A #4 and #5 are recommended for the top section. Good steep crack in a corner, too bad it's not longer. Liebacking around the crux overhang worked well for me.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : I Get By With A Little Help... (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Most definitely 5.10, and the best route on the wall. IMO as good or better (longer, too!) than the similarly-graded/styled route "Modern Warfare". Bring a #5 along, too. I placed both of my #4s too early and had to run it out bigtime at the top - which only got wider.

Tape up for this fistfight.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : The Snatch (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Classy little crack line! Closer to 50' than the 80' listed here. No dreaded OW, maybe only a 5' long section of cups-to-fist with big faceholds alongside. Mostly just steep hands on good rock with a short fingery crux at the bottom.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, Matt, it does appear to be a recent event. I noticed it within the last year. This is right across from Steve Edwards Project V5 I believe.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : Toby (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Of the handful of .9's and .10's I did out here in Mongolia, this one felt the hardest because it was the most sustained. 5.9+++.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Ellsmere Island : Foreign Legion (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: A short but demanding lead. Most work I've done for 30' of climbing in awhile. I'd say 5.10+ is fair for the onsight leader. The upper bit can be done in two different ways - crimp all out, campus-style on the left side of the crack, or delicately walk up the offset edge while grabbing the arÍte out right.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Gilligan's Island : Mary Ann's Face : Route 66 (5.4)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Agree with all the sentiments above. Over 100' of splitter hand and fist jamming. 5.4 can be this good!


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