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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 107
Total Points: 4,076
Last Year: 864
Last 30 Days: 7
170 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2870 | Routes 134 | Areas 26 | Photos 389 | Page Improvements | Comments 401 | Posts 87 | Stars 1655 | Ratings 178
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Delta Range : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Excellent photos, Galen!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Inner Tube Toes (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Nice, Mike. way to keep the SB obscurities alive. Keep seeking them out! Always wondered about this face and route. Supposedly there is a short bouldery 5.10+ crack somewhere on the south/SE face of Gib rock near the road, too.

Please go find your way to the .11d Dave Griffith route above and right of the bolt ladder and report back. Also the .10a R "Dream Weaver" on Cathedral Pk. Never made it to there and always wanted to..


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Mount P... : Main Wall : Giradelli (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: I've listed the route name as it's spelled in Stan Justice's guide, but based on the other chocolate-themed routes on the wall, I assume they meant to say "Ghirardelli."


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Mount P...
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Adventure climbing at it's finest, and way, way out there. Prindle can be done in-a-day (a HUGE day), and with 24 hour daylight in the summer why not? Adding all the weight of overnight gear onto the already demanding and strenuous approach is no joke, but would allow for doing more than just one or two routes. The 3 hour estimate is for fast and experienced parties familiar with the approach and hidden game-trails. With overnight gear, I'd expect 5 hours of seemingly endless slogging through sp... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Pipeline? aka the Kiser Pro... (V6- PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: I looked at it once back in 2008 and dubbed it the "Futuristic Problem with Too Many Names"...


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Zulu Warrior (5.10b R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Not really a sport climb, but a ground-up traditionally bolted route. A fall before achieving the third bolt will leave you in bad shape.. You're about 10' out on 5.9 ground with the low-angle slab below haunting you... I'll give this one the dreaded "R" rating. Felt a tad harder than it's neighbor to the left.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Voodoo Child (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Classic climbing! Fantastic friction! Superb stemming! How many more alliterations can I come up with? A very nice line, with just enough spice to keep your head in check. Optional small-medium gear can be used to protect the crack leading up to the first bolt.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Physical Attraction (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Much more difficult than appearances suggest, and no gimme for the grade. Two nice ASCA ring bolts on top for rappelling.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond : Toto (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: Brian's description above is spot on. The route is equipped with bolted rap anchors set for a single 60M rope. The last few splitter pitches are short but excellent! Rack I'd bring next time - 1/2 set nuts, single set of cams to 4", doubles 0.5 & 0.75 camalot for the 5.9+ 4th pitch corner.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Actually, Jess, I do aspire to climb some of John's routes. He has done some amazing things in the alpine realm. Frozen choss is probably a bit more solid than this route, though. Someone who might step onto this climb expecting the "4-star" experience based on comments here might be extremely dissatisfied, much like myself.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Raspberry Arete (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Mostly a bomb.. several grapefruit-sized chunks simply gave out uinder my body weight. Like it's neighbor to the right, I think this one is overrated.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: IMO - one of the worst chosspiles I've climbed on the highway. Every hold through the crux traverse sequence is flexing badly, and held in place by little more than a thin veneer of mud. The steep face before the traverse is also packed with large, flexing blocks. Not sure why everyone loves this one so much. It's got a couple of neat moves. I'll give it one star for length..

and minus 800 stars for rock quality.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Asgard Tor : Green Wall (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: A bit gritty from lack of traffic, but a worthy endeavor. From the base, the wall looks highly featured (and maybe even easy), but once on route you realize that those features are much more dificult to use than you originally thought.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Near Tors: Rock 1 : R + R (Stupid) (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Has one fun move at the top - the jump dyno into the summit bucket notch. Otherwise, a rather forgettable climb.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Asgard Tor : Little Maniac/Dead End Crac... (5.10 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Second Coming Tor
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: The Fairbanks Area Climbing Guide must have mixed up the grades of these two routes - the Right crack (5.8 in guide) is definitely a grade harder than the Left route (5.9 in guide), and I have submitted the routes to reflect this. YMMV.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : Urban Blight (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Maybe the best route of it's grade on the highway, with good rock. Unlike many routes around here, this one actually follows a singular line, not just another highly-featured face. Steep! Very clean and no dirt as of 6/2013.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : TKFP (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Pretty straightforward jug-thuggery. Very steep, even for 5.10a. Some questionable loose blocks which you are required to pull on detract from this otherwise excellent line. The crux might be the top-out into dirt and loose debris, though.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Northwest Passage
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Some long-ish, steep routes to be had here, along with a collection of some of the worst fixed gear (bolts) on the Highway. I'd avoid leading in this area until some replacement takes place.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire : Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: If you have to ask about downclimbing safely, I'd guess you probably aren't ready to be soloing it. Comments above suggest it's a big chosspile. Why not bring a harness and rappel line? Ropes do dry out, it's not like you're gonna ruin it..


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Soda (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: 7 bolts + one giant eye bolt, not 11.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Draino (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Lots of loose blocks along the rampy middle section.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Warrior (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Decent rock (after the first 8 feet), sustained & technical movement up an aesthetic arete, and crappy rusted bolts in need of replacement. Gets my vote for the best single pitch route in the Sunshine Ridge area.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Passport to the Sky (5.11 A1) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: I like the helmet clipped to the belay... I'd have at least put it on to protect that bald spot from geting sunburnt.


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