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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Richard Shore
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Point Rank: # 100
Total Points: 4,290
Last Year: 687
Last 30 Days: 1
212 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2942 | Routes 135 | Areas 27 | Photos 425 | Page Improvements | Comments 410 | Posts 76 | Stars 1689 | Ratings 180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : NE Ridge (full) (5.6)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: The original grade III rating preserved here is a bit of a sandbag. Expect a grade V kinda day (or two, especially in winter) with the long descent and many miles of desert hiking back to the car. We did two short rappels from towers - a 30M cord is plenty. Roped up for one pitch near the final tower where the crack was filled with ice and running water, and simul'ed the sugar snow exit gully.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Crown Jewel : Masters of the Mid (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Maybe you could add the Crown Jewels formation to the site as a new area, and put this route there, Scott. This isn't even close to the Plunger, it's nearly 2 miles away.

I don't think any 2 pitch route qualifies for a Grade III rating (or any rating for that matter). Does a 2-pitch route on a 1,000' mountain face even count as an "FA" in Alaska???


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Direct South Face (5.7 A0)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Great adventure, crummy climbing. Rock quality ranks amongst the worst I have experienced in the Sierra. Take the 5.8 handcrack variation up high (instead of the pendulum), it was the best pitch on the route BY FAR. Worth spending a night on the spectactular bivy ledge atop P5 (per topo), but only in the winter with sufficient snow to melt as you will not want to haul a two day supply of water up there. You'll need at least a tool and maybe even crampons for the ice/snow approach gully and desce... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, IMO one of the best moderate adventure multipitch routes in the Needles vicinity, second only to the South Face of the Warlock. Why? Obscure and uncrowded, no fixed convenience belays/rap stations, excellent rock quality, climbing, and aesthetics. Fred had a good eye for routes, to be sure. The fourth pitch dihedral with knobs, horns, scoops and buckets ranks among the best moderate pitches I've ever climbed. Much much better than the popular Magic Dragon 5.8 on the Magician. Ju... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I didn't think flake at the P4 crux was as bad as some make it out to be. I reefed on the thing with my 200lbs with little-to-no flex

The P5 splitter with chickenheads ranks among the top 5 pitches I have ever climbed. Simply amazing.

Linked P1-2 of the Remorse start with about 15' of simul climbing on a 60M. Done this way, it was still a full 6 pitches plus a short 30' pitch to top out.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: You kids and your newfangled big cams :). Just have Andy cut up a few pieces of 2" OD aluminum and rig up some big tube chocks, like in that old school photo. And don't forget the knee high socks! I always wanted to get on this rig, but never did.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : El Segundo Buttress : Chortle (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Unless the bolts on this rig have been replaced, I remember them all being 1/4" button heads. They did look good at the time (2012) with no rust and no spinners.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone : Thin As Ice (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Leg pumping fun! All footwork - You can't crimp your way up this one. Link both pitches for full value. 12 draws needed if done this way.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith : Freedom Roof (5.10-)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: If the runouts were closer to grade, maybe an "R", but even so they are only 10'-15' at most, with some gear opportunities between bolts. Well protected for the one-move-wonder crux. Be sure to let out a blood-curdling, Braveheart style "freeeeedom!" at the roof for full value.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith : Zigzag (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Don't pass up any protection opportunities early on this route - sustained 5.9 moves coming right away on slippery polished knobs and ground fall potential getting into the second crack. Thoughtful and engaging. With substantial sling-age one can link into the Freedom Roof (5.10-) for an awesome ~150' pitch.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Delta Range : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Excellent photos, Galen!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Inner Tube Toes (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Nice, Mike. way to keep the SB obscurities alive. Keep seeking them out! Always wondered about this face and route. Supposedly there is a short bouldery 5.10+ crack somewhere on the south/SE face of Gib rock near the road, too.

Please go find your way to the .11d Dave Griffith route above and right of the bolt ladder and report back. Also the .10a R "Dream Weaver" on Cathedral Pk. Never made it to there and always wanted to..


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Mount Prindle : Main Wall : Giradelli (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: I've listed the route name as it's spelled in Stan Justice's guide, but based on the other chocolate-themed routes on the wall, I assume they meant to say "Ghirardelli."


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Mount Prindle
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Adventure climbing at it's finest, and way, way out there. Prindle can be done in-a-day (a HUGE day), and with 24 hour daylight in the summer why not? Adding all the weight of overnight gear onto the already demanding and strenuous approach is no joke, but would allow for doing more than just one or two routes. The 3 hour estimate is for fast and experienced parties familiar with the approach and hidden game-trails. With overnight gear, I'd expect 5 hours of seemingly endless slogging through sp... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Pipeline? aka the Kiser Pro... (V6- PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: I looked at it once back in 2008 and dubbed it the "Futuristic Problem with Too Many Names"...


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Zulu Warrior (5.10b R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Not really a sport climb, but a ground-up traditionally bolted route. A fall before achieving the third bolt will leave you in bad shape.. You're about 10' out on 5.9 ground with the low-angle slab below haunting you... I'll give this one the dreaded "R" rating. Felt a tad harder than it's neighbor to the left.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Voodoo Child (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Classic climbing! Fantastic friction! Superb stemming! How many more alliterations can I come up with? A very nice line, with just enough spice to keep your head in check. Optional small-medium gear can be used to protect the crack leading up to the first bolt.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Physical Attraction (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Much more difficult than appearances suggest, and no gimme for the grade. Two nice ASCA ring bolts on top for rappelling.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond : Toto (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: Brian's description above is spot on. The route is equipped with bolted rap anchors set for a single 60M rope. The last few splitter pitches are short but excellent! Rack I'd bring next time - 1/2 set nuts, single set of cams to 4", doubles 0.5 & 0.75 camalot for the 5.9+ 4th pitch corner.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Actually, Jess, I do aspire to climb some of John's routes. He has done some amazing things in the alpine realm. Frozen choss is probably a bit more solid than this route, though. Someone who might step onto this climb expecting the "4-star" experience based on comments here might be extremely dissatisfied, much like myself.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Raspberry Arete (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Mostly a bomb.. several grapefruit-sized chunks simply gave out uinder my body weight. Like it's neighbor to the right, I think this one is overrated.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: IMO - one of the worst chosspiles I've climbed on the highway. Every hold through the crux traverse sequence is flexing badly, and held in place by little more than a thin veneer of mud. The steep face before the traverse is also packed with large, flexing blocks. Not sure why everyone loves this one so much. It's got a couple of neat moves. I'll give it one star for length..

and minus 800 stars for rock quality.


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Granite Tors : Asgard Tor : Green Wall (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: A bit gritty from lack of traffic, but a worthy endeavor. From the base, the wall looks highly featured (and maybe even easy), but once on route you realize that those features are much more dificult to use than you originally thought.


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Granite Tors : Near Tors: Rock 1 : R + R (Stupid) (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Has one fun move at the top - the jump dyno into the summit bucket notch. Otherwise, a rather forgettable climb.


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