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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 116
Total Points: 3,484
Last Year: 1,068
Last 30 Days: 161
114 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All (2640) | Routes (127) | Areas (23) | Photos (300) | Comments (369) | Posts (91) | Stars (1564) | Ratings (166)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond : Toto (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: Brian's description above is spot on. The route is equipped with bolted rap anchors set for a single 60M rope. The last few splitter pitches are short but excellent! Rack I'd bring next time - 1/2 set nuts, single set of cams to 4", doubles 0.5 & 0.75 camalot for the 5.9+ 4th pitch corner.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Actually, Jess, I do aspire to climb some of John's routes. He has done some amazing things in the alpine realm. Frozen choss is probably a bit more solid than this route, though. Someone who might step onto this climb expecting the "4-star" experience based on comments here might be extremely dissatisfied, much like myself.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Raspberry Arete (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Mostly a bomb.. several grapefruit-sized chunks simply gave out uinder my body weight. Like it's neighbor to the right, I think this one is overrated.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: IMO - one of the worst chosspiles I've climbed on the highway. Every hold through the crux traverse sequence is flexing badly, and held in place by little more than a thin veneer of mud. The steep face before the traverse is also packed with large, flexing blocks. Not sure why everyone loves this one so much. It's got a couple of neat moves. I'll give it one star for length..

and minus 800 stars for rock quality.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Asgard Tor : Green Wall (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: A bit gritty from lack of traffic, but a worthy endeavor. From the base, the wall looks highly featured (and maybe even easy), but once on route you realize that those features are much more dificult to use than you originally thought.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Near Tors: Rock 1 : R + R (Stupid) (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Has one fun move at the top - the jump dyno into the summit bucket notch. Otherwise, a rather forgettable climb.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Asgard Tor : Little Maniac/Dead End Crac... (5.10 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Second Coming Tor
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: The Fairbanks Area Climbing Guide must have mixed up the grades of these two routes - the Right crack (5.8 in guide) is definitely a grade harder than the Left route (5.9 in guide), and I have submitted the routes to reflect this. YMMV.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : Urban Blight (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Maybe the best route of it's grade on the highway, with good rock. Unlike many routes around here, this one actually follows a singular line, not just another highly-featured face. Steep! Very clean and no dirt as of 6/2013.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : TKFP (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Pretty straightforward jug-thuggery. Very steep, even for 5.10a. Some questionable loose blocks which you are required to pull on detract from this otherwise excellent line. The crux might be the top-out into dirt and loose debris, though.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Northwest Passage
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Some long-ish, steep routes to be had here, along with a collection of some of the worst fixed gear (bolts) on the Highway. I'd avoid leading in this area until some replacement takes place.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire : Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: If you have to ask about downclimbing safely, I'd guess you probably aren't ready to be soloing it. Comments above suggest it's a big chosspile. Why not bring a harness and rappel line? Ropes do dry out, it's not like you're gonna ruin it..


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Soda (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: 7 bolts + one giant eye bolt, not 11.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Draino (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Lots of loose blocks along the rampy middle section.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Warrior (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Decent rock (after the first 8 feet), sustained & technical movement up an aesthetic arete, and crappy rusted bolts in need of replacement. Gets my vote for the best single pitch route in the Sunshine Ridge area.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Passport to the Sky (5.11 A1) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: I like the helmet clipped to the belay... I'd have at least put it on to protect that bald spot from geting sunburnt.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : No Whiners (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Nice mix of mostly positive and large holds - slopers, jugs, pinches, crimps, it's got em all.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : No Finer (5.10b/c)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Probably the best line on this side of the formation, at least movement-wise. Good overhanging stems up a cool corner. Eases off significantly after the first 20 feet.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Shiner (5.10b/c)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb, but some seriously large and hollow sounding blocks up high (one marked with with a few chalk X's) detract from the quality. Tread lightly, and put your belayer off to the side.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Boy Scout Rocks : Main Area
By: Richard Shore When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: Yep, looks about 3-4" in diameter. I don't think a regular caribiner will fit on it. Throw a sling through that bad boy.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This photo is tilted a bit. The route is not quite this steep.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Pivot Point (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Stemming is key to taking the bite out of the lower half of the route. Slick and polished, but excellent rock.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Sunshine Ridge (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: I'd say the climb is closer to 450 feet in length - I stretched the first and last pitches to 45-50M each. Also, this thing is in a bit of disrepair - there are a handful of chopped bolts/stolen hangers, and the bolted belay atop P2 has been chopped (no biggie, gear belay from a solid hand-size crack or go up another 15' and tie off a boulder). The walk-off is to climber's left, and drops you very close to your car. Do not be tempted to descend climber's right - this gully is very loose, steep ... more >>


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: West Gr... : First Crag : Fern Hueco (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Best line on the crag.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: West Gr... : First Crag : Peril (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: A very contrived route where one is forced to climb right or left of the bolt line by 6 feet or more at times. The crux itself is really just a one-move wonder, and very reachy (or dynamic for the height deficient folks).


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