Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 112
Total Points: 3,744
Last Year: 538
Last 30 Days: 27
139 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2715 | Routes 131 | Areas 25 | Photos 335 | Page Improvments | Comments 384 | Posts 86 | Stars 1586 | Ratings 168
Page 2 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I didn't think flake at the P4 crux was as bad as some make it out to be. I reefed on the thing with my 200lbs with little-to-no flex

The P5 splitter with chickenheads ranks among the top 5 pitches I have ever climbed. Simply amazing.

Linked P1-2 of the Remorse start with about 15' of simul climbing on a 60M. Done this way, it was still a full 6 pitches plus a short 30' pitch to top out.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: You kids and your newfangled big cams :). Just have Andy cut up a few pieces of 2" OD aluminum and rig up some big tube chocks, like in that old school photo. And don't forget the knee high socks! I always wanted to get on this rig, but never did.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : El Segundo Buttress : Chortle (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Unless the bolts on this rig have been replaced, I remember them all being 1/4" button heads. They did look good at the time (2012) with no rust and no spinners.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone : Thin As Ice (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Leg pumping fun! All footwork - You can't crimp your way up this one. Link both pitches for full value. 12 draws needed if done this way.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith : Freedom Roof (5.10-)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If the runouts were closer to grade, maybe an "R", but even so they are only 10'-15' at most, with some gear opportunities between bolts. Well protected for the one-move-wonder crux. Be sure to let out a blood-curdling, Braveheart style "freeeeedom!" at the roof for full value.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith : Zigzag (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Don't pass up any protection opportunities early on this route - sustained 5.9 moves coming right away on slippery polished knobs and ground fall potential getting into the second crack. Thoughtful and engaging. With substantial sling-age one can link into the Freedom Roof (5.10-) for an awesome ~150' pitch.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Delta Range : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent photos, Galen!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Inner Tube Toes (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice, Mike. way to keep the SB obscurities alive. Keep seeking them out! Always wondered about this face and route. Supposedly there is a short bouldery 5.10+ crack somewhere on the south/SE face of Gib rock near the road, too.

Please go find your way to the .11d Dave Griffith route above and right of the bolt ladder and report back. Also the .10a R "Dream Weaver" on Cathedral Pk. Never made it to there and always wanted to..


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Mount P... : Main Wall : Giradelli (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I've listed the route name as it's spelled in Stan Justice's guide, but based on the other chocolate-themed routes on the wall, I assume they meant to say "Ghirardelli."


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Mount P...
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Adventure climbing at it's finest, and way, way out there. Prindle can be done in-a-day (a HUGE day), and with 24 hour daylight in the summer why not? Adding all the weight of overnight gear onto the already demanding and strenuous approach is no joke, but would allow for doing more than just one or two routes. The 3 hour estimate is for fast and experienced parties familiar with the approach and hidden game-trails. With overnight gear, I'd expect 5 hours of seemingly endless slogging through sp... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Pipeline? aka the Kiser Pro... (V6- PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I looked at it once back in 2008 and dubbed it the "Futuristic Problem with Too Many Names"...


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Zulu Warrior (5.10b R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Not really a sport climb, but a ground-up traditionally bolted route. A fall before achieving the third bolt will leave you in bad shape.. You're about 10' out on 5.9 ground with the low-angle slab below haunting you... I'll give this one the dreaded "R" rating. Felt a tad harder than it's neighbor to the left.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Voodoo Child (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Classic climbing! Fantastic friction! Superb stemming! How many more alliterations can I come up with? A very nice line, with just enough spice to keep your head in check. Optional small-medium gear can be used to protect the crack leading up to the first bolt.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall : Physical Attraction (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Much more difficult than appearances suggest, and no gimme for the grade. Two nice ASCA ring bolts on top for rappelling.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond : Toto (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Brian's description above is spot on. The route is equipped with bolted rap anchors set for a single 60M rope. The last few splitter pitches are short but excellent! Rack I'd bring next time - 1/2 set nuts, single set of cams to 4", doubles 0.5 & 0.75 camalot for the 5.9+ 4th pitch corner.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Actually, Jess, I do aspire to climb some of John's routes. He has done some amazing things in the alpine realm. Frozen choss is probably a bit more solid than this route, though. Someone who might step onto this climb expecting the "4-star" experience based on comments here might be extremely dissatisfied, much like myself.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Raspberry Arete (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Mostly a bomb.. several grapefruit-sized chunks simply gave out uinder my body weight. Like it's neighbor to the right, I think this one is overrated.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Dino Head : Best Deal in Town (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: IMO - one of the worst chosspiles I've climbed on the highway. Every hold through the crux traverse sequence is flexing badly, and held in place by little more than a thin veneer of mud. The steep face before the traverse is also packed with large, flexing blocks. Not sure why everyone loves this one so much. It's got a couple of neat moves. I'll give it one star for length..

and minus 800 stars for rock quality.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Asgard Tor : Green Wall (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A bit gritty from lack of traffic, but a worthy endeavor. From the base, the wall looks highly featured (and maybe even easy), but once on route you realize that those features are much more dificult to use than you originally thought.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Near Tors: Rock 1 : R + R (Stupid) (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Has one fun move at the top - the jump dyno into the summit bucket notch. Otherwise, a rather forgettable climb.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Asgard Tor : Little Maniac/Dead End Crac... (5.10 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Second Coming Tor
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The Fairbanks Area Climbing Guide must have mixed up the grades of these two routes - the Right crack (5.8 in guide) is definitely a grade harder than the Left route (5.9 in guide), and I have submitted the routes to reflect this. YMMV.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : Urban Blight (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe the best route of it's grade on the highway, with good rock. Unlike many routes around here, this one actually follows a singular line, not just another highly-featured face. Steep! Very clean and no dirt as of 6/2013.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : TKFP (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty straightforward jug-thuggery. Very steep, even for 5.10a. Some questionable loose blocks which you are required to pull on detract from this otherwise excellent line. The crux might be the top-out into dirt and loose debris, though.


Page 2 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>