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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Richard Shore
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Point Rank: # 95
Total Points: 4,444
Last Year: 627
Last 30 Days: 80
258 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3000 | Routes 136 | Areas 27 | Photos 452 | Page Improvements | Comments 419 | Posts 76 | Stars 1709 | Ratings 181
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo... : East Arete - Mt. Carl Helle... (3rd)
By: Richard Shore When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The BEST 3rd/4th class route I've done in these mountains, hands down. Spectacular position and a natural line directly on the knife-edge ridge. Miles better than Russell, Muir, Middle Pal, etc.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo... : Tulainyo Tower (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: 2 days ago

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Comments: An excellent route with a lot of really bad & loose rock. Choss connoisseurs rejoice! Helmets should be considered MANDATORY. The 5.10+ OW crux is short and well-protected with the 3/8" buttonhead bolt, and good small gear can be found just below to back it up. I managed to have a #2 camalot unclip itself from my harness while squirming up some 5.10 OW high on route - maybe the booty waiting at the base will attract other climbers to come try this thing.

Are there any alternate descents o... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Mt. Langley : Rest & Be Thankful (aka Nor... (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This route has seen possibly as few as 4 ascents now, and it will still feel like the first when you're on it. We trundled dozens of loose blocks in an effort to clean things up a little bit. Most memorable section for me - tunneling up a chimney on P3 with a birthing-hole type squeeze exit at the top; only the exit was partially blocked by a 200 lb rock, which I was able to push over to the side with both arms overhead while my lower body was locked in below. Tape is highly recommende... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Mt. Muir : East Buttress (w/ variation... (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The 4th class Mendenhall route listed in the Moynier Sierra Classics book is anything but classic - it actually takes a deeply incised, extremely loose dirt and rock gully just to the right of the true East Buttress. Avoid this at all costs. A much better alternative is to take the Semi-Direct - stay on the true prow as much as possible, tackling the first tower via a number of cracks in the 5.7 range. The Claude and Nancy Fiddler 5.9 Direct tackles the second tower straight on via a fist crack.... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : ... : West Ridge (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Ok, I feel obliged to comment after climbing this route. I'll give this one star for the awesome summit block and the fun initial 1000' cl.3-5 solo up the gully - which was sadly the best climbing on route. Very loose with loads of moss and mud. Stays wet for awhile after rain due to sun aspect and sheer volume of sponge-like plants on route. To compare - the worst pitch on the LFT is far better than the best pitch on the West Ridge. Be prepared for multiple stuck ropes on the low angle, block i... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Kearsarge Pass to Cedar Gro... : Bubbs Creek Wall : The Emperor (5.12a PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: A beauty! Varied and sustained climbing with few (if any) pitches easier than 5.10. Upper pitches retain water during the early season, but don't wait too late because this south facing route will be baking by mid-summer. Technical slab/face + heat = grim. Needles quality rock with Whitney Portal-style climbing, linking discontinuous crack systems by way of improbable yet incredible face sections and some thought-provoking slab. Bring a comfy harness and stiff shoes - many steep/hanging belays. ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Norman Clyde Peak : Twilight Pillar (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, but much shorter pitch-wise than suggested in the description. I believe most parties will avoid the glacier by scrambling up the long ridgeline to the northeast of the peak, traversing in below the large circular snowfield. Loads of 3rd and 4th class (with occasional easy class 5) will gain the steep part of the route where you will rope up. From the ledge at the base of the upper pillar, we did only 2 60M pitches and one 80M simul-pitch to the top. You can add a chossy 5.7 pitch by ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Mt. Irvine : East Buttress (5.9) : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Yo Adam - this pic of yours shows the light-colored scar I referenced. Myself and another party believe this is where the bowling pin once was. You can make an outline of it pretty easily. Instead of climbing this, we opted for a crack/face to climbers right at the end of the ledge.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: I have removed/edited most of my own beta page, in an effort to help restore the adventure aspect of this place. The thoughtless actions of few can negatively affect the access for the rest of us.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Grizzly Peak : Southwest Arete (4th)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: A really fun scenic scramble, and a nice change of pace from the typical Valley climb. Bit of a ant-filled bushwhack in places, but some cool knife-edge style exposure when out on the rock. The best route stays as close to the ridge as one feels comfortable - definitely some 5th class fun to be found.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak
By: Richard Shore When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Attempted the supposed 5.4 way on the summit block, way sketchy in approach shoes - insecure slab. Walked around to the south side of the summit block and found a cruiser (but steep) 30' handcrack. Clean and juggy with a fixed baby angle sticking 2" out of the rock on the left side. Matt's comments on the Cosmo the Crow route suggest this might be 5.9, but I felt it was much easier, MAYBE 5.7. I had no hesitations climbing up and down it in tennies. Great views, rad summit!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: If you feel confident at the grade, I would suggest bringing just one rope and going to the summit. Walk off/down scramble the west ridge - straightforward and scenic. Just remember, if you have to bail with one cord it will be expensive (leaving #3/4/5/6 camalots for anchors between bolted stations). Stout, physical, burly, wide, & aesthetic; a big-boys climb. Used the #4s, 5, and 6 on almost every pitch up to P6.

According to the summit register 0-1 parties/year actually... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lebowski (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: To use the parlance of our times - this route is a fu@ked-up-mega-choss-pile-never-to-be-forgotten adventure classic; a beautiful line drawn in the sand. By our estimates, there were 5 or 6 quality pitches out of the guidebook's 21. There is an unrelenting amount of physical wide climbing - bring your armor or you'll be entering a world of pain. 2x #5 and a single #6 camalot were sufficient for protecting the Jesus OW pitch, but dios mio, man! You come in here thinking you'... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : ... : Poaching Bighorn (5.11b)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Slightly dissapointed with this rig - a very short and desperate crux right off the deck on an otherwise long and moderate route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : ... : Greenhorn Dihedral (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, the rock is a little grainy, but I'd take that anyday over those greased up campground climbs. Much more sustained and engaging at the grade than the nearby classic Poaching Bighorn, so I'll steal a star from that and give it here.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: If you rap before P11, you haven't done the route - don't bail after P4 or before P9 as others have suggested above. The crux P9 is IMO the best pitch on the route - a technical flaring groove with funky body English. One of the most scenic walk-offs I've done in RR, down cascading pools and slabs in the upper reaches of the canyon. 2.5 hours from the summit to the car, including a swim. Probably no longer than the time it would take you to rappel and reverse the approach slabs.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Mary's Tears (5.11a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Thought this route was fun, but a far cry from the classic that others have made it out to be. P1 and P4 are forgettable, and even the "good" pitches are somewhat dirty. Consider it for a harder alternate start to the NE Buttress, but by no means worthy of the long hike for just the 4 pitches alone.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Matt, for your time and effort in restoring this historic ground-up route. Hopefully the rock isnt too badly scarred from this whole ordeal.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Ribbon Falls Area : Gold Wall : The Silent Line (5.10 C1)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: We were able to descend from top of P7 all the way to the ground on a single 70M. Knots were right at the chains on top of P1, though, so bring that second cord and leave it at the base in case your rope isn't as long. Link 1&2, and start free climbing in the vicinity of the knobs after a few aid moves above the P1 anchor. Handcracks for days!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatoween (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: Wow, excellent line! Lots of sustained crack climbing with a bit of face thrown in the mix. I felt that this line was much more demanding than Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk, which is the same length and grade (albeit on granite). Without much trouble, we did the route in 10 pitches with a 60M, linking the ST pitches as follows: 1&2, 3&4, 5, 6, 7, 8&9, 10&11, 12, 13&14 (rope drag!), 15. 6&7 might also link, but it'd be one hell of a burly pitch done that way. Route goes pretty quickl... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Sexy Sadye (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Excellent and bold, great rock and line. 1st bolt at 10', do the math for the rest.. keep your sh@t together!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Peer Pressure (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Short and steep, beware the <50' JT 5.10!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Christmas Tree Arete (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Easiest .10c tick in the park. A short overhanging jug-haul with easier jug-hauling above. The obvious 8' tall "Christmas tree" marks the start.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : The Pearls : Black Pearl (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: While the climbing quality is good, I give this a bomb because it should not even exist as an independent line. It bypasses the first 30' of pearl drops and climbs NO different terrain, starting at its 3rd bolt - weak sauce. **** in the Vogel guide, wtf?! Don't short-change yourself, start from the bottom on PD


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : The Pearls : Zircon (5.9+ PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: A few committing moves before you get any good gear - 30' off the deck. A marginal #3 RP was enough mental pro to step up into the thin crack, but a hidden #0 tcu exists behind the handhold (can't see until above it).


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