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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 111
Total Points: 3,744
Last Year: 538
Last 30 Days: 27
137 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2715 | Routes 131 | Areas 25 | Photos 335 | Page Improvments | Comments 384 | Posts 86 | Stars 1586 | Ratings 168
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Agreed that the supposed "crux" pitch was quite tame. Steep but perfect hands for about 10' until you can stem out onto the other crack. I don't remember the loose block Karsten speaks of, but thought that changing corners pitch 2 was probably the crux of the route (10a). The Triple Cracks is definetely the highlight of the route, and quite sustained.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Comments here comparing this to the Mithral Dihedral on Mt Russell are misguided. The technical climbing on that route is 1/2 the length of this. While we're at it, let's compare this to a single-pitch in Joshua Tree that you liked better...

With a 60M rope we linked 2&3, 5&6, and 9&10. 7 pitches total to the ridge, with two more to the summit. Watch out for the "X" block at the belay atop the Red Dihedral pitch.


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Impala : The Diagonal Route (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: A fun and quick route with a spectacular and airy summit pinnacle. Instead of following the ugly class 3 gully up and right towards the east ridge, we climbed directly up the beautiful golden face (mid-5th, good rock and climbing) and then traversed off right towards the ridge beneath a steep and grainy-looking LF corner crack. Some very exposed moves on the final ridge gaining the free-standing summit.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Dark Star (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Good beta to climb this big route fast (8-10 hours): Solo the 500' 4th-5th class "sit-start" - it's faster and more fun than hiking up the loose scree and then traversing into the base. P1-6 (to top of chimney, per topo) can be done in 4 long pitches w/60M rope. Simul to base of middle buttress from there. 2 pitches on middle buttress, simul to first rappel station. If you're comfortable with the terrain at this point, solo the rest to the summit ( w/ rappels). We never found the supposed 5.10 p... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Keeler Needle : Harding Route (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Lots of great crack climbing on the proudest tower in the Sierra. Rock quality was better than expected. Both my partner and I thought that the last 10' of the P4 5.10a OW was significantly harder than the supposed enduro P8 5.10c OW crux. P8 was pretty casual, with hand jams in the back of the flare and occasional face holds/cracks. We brought both a single #4 and #5 camalot, and were glad to have them for many of the lower pitches.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : No Country For Old Men (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Many parties are now just doing the first three pitches, but they are short-changing themselves. The chimney pitch 5 is wild (gear to 3", not 1.5"!) and the knobby pitch 6 is an all-time classic. Calling P7 a horrow-show death flake extravanganza is a bit of an injustice, too. It's cleaned up pretty well, and any 5.10 climber should have no problem avoiding the few loose blocks at the top of the 5.7 pitch. Ideally, they should be trundled when no one is at the base (wanted to topple them today, ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Parisian Buttress : Arc de Triomphe (5.10d PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: First two pitches in the dihedral are stunning - fun and stout 5.9 liebacking. P4 squeeze chimney really sucks the fun out of the first half, though, and above the rock quality deteriorates quickly. P6-9 is some of the most mind-bending 5.5-5.7 I've ever climbed. Extreme exposure on the thin arÍte with runout gritty knobs that feel like they could blow at any moment. OK route - I can't give this more than 2 stars because of rock quality. It MIGHT clean up a bit with traffic, but lets face it - n... more >>


Location: Richard Shore : Text : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Indeed, Mike. Those Kiwis can't take a straight photo! I like to think if it is presented this steep, it will keep the masses off this completely reasonable moderate route..


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Richard Shore When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: From the AAJ -

Hermit Spire, South Face. An interesting edifice of nature highlights the rolling subalpine hills west of the Little Kern River, closely north of Lloyd Meadows (several miles north of The Needles). Its base is shaped like a typical Sierra dome, but about 600 feet higher its walls slenderize to form a crest-like spire. Dan McHale and I spent Nov. 29 and 30, 1969 climbing the south face, which had to be reached by some cross-country effort. The climbing was spectacular but with a r... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Mean Streak (5.10c/d A1 R)
By: Richard Shore When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: SUPERB! As Bill noted above, be solid at 5.10+ before jumping on this rig. Excellent and varied climbing, runout knobs, splitter cracks, glassy slab, chimney, thin potato chip flakes, so good! P1 is the most runout hard pitch, and seems contrived when there is an obvious 5.7/8 variation just to the right - up the left-facing corner, then step left into a right facing corner/flake up to the belay. P2 is one of the toughest "5.10b"s you'll ever do, ENDURO hands up the overhanging/leaning corner wi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: No, that's not the one. It is on the plumb line straight down from the big oak tree. 1/2" red-head expansion bolt. I was never proud of the botch job, so never posted anything up here. Just throwing out a little history for anyone interested.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Matt - did you see the hangerless stud about 2/3rds of the way up the face? a few years back I made a ground-up ascent of this line, stance-drilling the bolt, and then I f@cking botched the damn thing (my only pro) stripping the threads while hammering it in. I left it as was and kept climbing. A foolhardy solo with a rope and bolt kit in tow.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Wicked Duke Takes a Wif... (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: This line was done years ago by Andy and crew, and maybe even earlier by a previous generation. Exactly as you describe the location.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : What Have You Done with My ... (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: The flake of doom is a little scary, but otherwise has lots of fun finger-and-tips jams with insecure feet. Trundled a hundred pound block off of the alternate start - I wouldn't recommend going that way.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Very nice line; certainly a contender for "best 15' finger crack" in SB, and undoubtedly the best (and only?) 5.8 finger crack. This is the cleanest line on the wall with excellent gear and jamming. I personally prefer Gnome Fingers, but this is a close 2nd.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: I spotted the tower from Arlington Peak a few weeks back, and noticed all the clean-looking and abundant cracks. Thanks for posting up, Jeff. Some good crack climbing to be found here, which will hopefully clean up with more traffic. A cordless leaf blower might be a good thing to add to your rack to help empty the loose dirt and leaves out from the cracks.

Where's the entry for Putrid Rat? I thought it was the best line on the tower - long, with lots of hand-slamming fun. 5.7ish?

Also - ther... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : The Boss Man (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Cool, Alex. I always wondered about this obscure line after reading the description in the old Tucker/Steele guide - something about the unknown grade of "difficult 5th class" intrigued me. 5.10a doesn't sound too difficult after all!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Touche, Bob.

Unfortunately, the stars of this flick are hairy, farmer-tanned, shirtless men. I'll save my $12.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Pit Bull Attack (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: The top section of the route is kinda forced and poorly protected for the follower. No possible directionals up top. After attaining the ledge, clip the bolt, reeeeeach far left to the arete holds and then up. Gear anchor is wayy off to the right near the top of Semi-Tough. Best choice for follower (and maybe leader, too, depending on size of huevos) is to unclip the bolt and step right about 5 feet on the ledge and topout via the Semi Tough crack. Neat start with the wide body stem and airy tra... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Kelly was hazy on the details? The dude has a mind like a steel trap. Just rousing you, Andy. But seriously, Scorpion Boulders is a much sexier name..


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Maybe the above description should say "out of respect for the FA-ists it shall remain known as the Scorpion Boulders."


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : NE Ridge (full) (5.6)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: The original grade III rating preserved here is a bit of a sandbag. Expect a grade V kinda day (or two, especially in winter) with the long descent and many miles of desert hiking back to the car. We did two short rappels from towers - a 30M cord is plenty. Roped up for one pitch near the final tower where the crack was filled with ice and running water, and simul'ed the sugar snow exit gully.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : The Plunger : Masters of the Mid (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Maybe you could add the Crown Jewels formation to the site as a new area, and put this route there, Scott. This isn't even close to the Plunger, it's nearly 2 miles away.

I don't think any 2 pitch route qualifies for a Grade III rating (or any rating for that matter). Does a 2-pitch route on a 1,000' mountain face even count as an "FA" in Alaska???


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Direct South Face (5.7 A0)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Great adventure, crummy climbing. Rock quality ranks amongst the worst I have experienced in the Sierra. Take the 5.8 handcrack variation up high (instead of the pendulum), it was the best pitch on the route BY FAR. Worth spending a night on the spectactular bivy ledge atop P5 (per topo), but only in the winter with sufficient snow to melt as you will not want to haul a two day supply of water up there. You'll need at least a tool and maybe even crampons for the ice/snow approach gully and desce... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, IMO one of the best moderate adventure multipitch routes in the Needles vicinity, second only to the South Face of the Warlock. Why? Obscure and uncrowded, no fixed convenience belays/rap stations, excellent rock quality, climbing, and aesthetics. Fred had a good eye for routes, to be sure. The fourth pitch dihedral with knobs, horns, scoops and buckets ranks among the best moderate pitches I've ever climbed. Much much better than the popular Magic Dragon 5.8 on the Magician. Ju... more >>


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