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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 108
Total Points: 3,931
Last Year: 719
Last 30 Days: 155
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2778 | Routes 133 | Areas 26 | Photos 365 | Page Improvements | Comments 392 | Posts 87 | Stars 1605 | Ratings 170
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Western Front (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: 8 hours ago

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Comments: I seem to remember two cheater stones perfectly placed at the P1 belay to help get established on P2. Without these, it looked pretty desperate to get into the corner/crack off the belay ledge (even at 6'3"). Maybe 5.11, or harder? Keep future parties in mind - do them a favor and DON'T trundle those blocks!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Here's an idea:

Let the route fall into obscurity; allow the moss and lichen to grow back on the rock. Somebody re-climb it 10 years from now and re-claim the FA and rename it whatever they want. Seems to be common practice nowadays amongst the bouldering contingent in the area. I'm thinking we can rename the whole area while we're at it - something along the lines of "Black Canyon of the Gunnison" if it isn't already taken.

Or, maybe we can respect the name given by the FAists, take... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : South Face (5.7+)
By: Richard Shore When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The description here is excellent. No topo needed. The approach pitch is 4th class, and if you value your skin you will encounter easy 5th class face/slab to avoid heinous vertical bushwhacking. P1 is all of 5.8, with shallow, flaring, and somewhat insecure crack climbing. P2 & 3 are easily combined with a 60M rope, just make sure not to place any gear under the huge block/boulder at the top of the P2 belay so rope drag doesnt kill you on the final 30 feet. As noted by others, the easy 5th class... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : The Watchtower : Timex Route (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The photo overlay topo posted here is extremely helpful - take a copy with you on route. P1 as described here is about 220', so be ready to simulclimb on some easy terrain. Look for a small tree about 40' up with some rap slings as a landmark on the first pitch. A good adventure route on quality rock with no fixed gear and LOTS of vegetation. Nut tool for the leader is essential for excavating gear placements. Take care with some minor loose blocks on belay ledges as well - we trundled a few. Th... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : South West Face (Harding) R... (5.10c) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Much easier to climb 6 feet to the right up face features then step left into the crack.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : South West Face (Harding) R... (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: The most physical route I've done in the Sierra. The OW pitches felt harder than those on Keeler Needle, which are similarly graded at a higher altitude. A #6 can be walked through much of the 5.10 OW pitch 4, clipping bolts/pins as you pass by. Beware the 3rd and 6th pitch 5.8 squeezes! A very proud climb. At least 3 different guidebooks give this route a grade V rating, so be prepared. "Only 9 pitches, AND you can link some, this should be quick!". I thought this would be the easiest of ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North ArÍte (5.6)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Agreed, you MUST go to the true South summit, otherwise it doesn't count :P. The 5.8 dihedral variation is good and worthy if you're looking to add a little extra technical climbing to the otherwise scrambly route.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Dragtooth : North Buttress (aka the Dra... (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, I only wish the technical climbing was twice as long and the ridge climbing twice as short! For climbers looking to make this into a more full day, consider linking this route into the North Arete 5.7 on Matterhorn Peak. From the summit of Dragtooth, continue along the huge summit ridge and eventually drop down the south flank and then up into the notch between Dragtooth and Matterhorn (aka West Couloir). A short bit of cl3-4 downclimbing from the notch and you can traverse into... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Agreed that the supposed "crux" pitch was quite tame. Steep but perfect hands for about 10' until you can stem out onto the other crack. I don't remember the loose block Karsten speaks of, but thought that changing corners pitch 2 was probably the crux of the route (10a). The Triple Cracks is definetely the highlight of the route, and quite sustained.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Comments here comparing this to the Mithral Dihedral on Mt Russell are misguided. The technical climbing on that route is 1/2 the length of this. While we're at it, let's compare this to a single-pitch in Joshua Tree that you liked better...

With a 60M rope we linked 2&3, 5&6, and 9&10. 7 pitches total to the ridge, with two more to the summit. Watch out for the "X" block at the belay atop the Red Dihedral pitch. Do yourself a favor and go left around the birthing hole near the summit. It's eas... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Impala : The Diagonal Route (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: A fun and quick route with a spectacular and airy summit pinnacle. Instead of following the ugly class 3 gully up and right towards the east ridge, we climbed directly up the beautiful golden face (mid-5th, good rock and climbing) and then traversed off right towards the ridge beneath a steep and grainy-looking LF corner crack. Some very exposed moves on the final ridge gaining the free-standing summit.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Dark Star (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Good beta to climb this big route fast (8-10 hours): Solo the 500' 4th-5th class "sit-start" - it's faster and more fun than hiking up the loose scree and then traversing into the base. P1-6 (to top of chimney, per topo) can be done in 4 long pitches w/60M rope. Simul to base of middle buttress from there. 2 pitches on middle buttress, simul to first rappel station. If you're comfortable with the terrain at this point, solo the rest to the summit ( w/ rappels). We never found the supposed 5.10 p... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Keeler Needle : Harding Route (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Lots of great crack climbing on the proudest tower in the Sierra. Rock quality was better than expected. Both my partner and I thought that the last 10' of the P4 5.10a OW was significantly harder than the supposed enduro P8 5.10c OW crux. P8 was pretty casual, with hand jams in the back of the flare and occasional face holds/cracks. We brought both a single #4 and #5 camalot, and were glad to have them for many of the lower pitches.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : No Country For Old Men (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Many parties are now just doing the first three pitches, but they are short-changing themselves. The chimney pitch 5 is wild (gear to 3", not 1.5"!) and the knobby pitch 6 is an all-time classic. Calling P7 a horrow-show death flake extravanganza is a bit of an injustice, too. It's cleaned up pretty well, and any 5.10 climber should have no problem avoiding the few loose blocks at the top of the 5.7 pitch. Ideally, they should be trundled when no one is at the base (wanted to topple them today, ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Parisian Buttress : Arc de Triomphe (5.10d PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: First two pitches in the dihedral are stunning - fun and stout 5.9 liebacking. P4 squeeze chimney really sucks the fun out of the first half, though, and above the rock quality deteriorates quickly. P6-9 is some of the most mind-bending 5.5-5.7 I've ever climbed. Extreme exposure on the thin arÍte with runout gritty knobs that feel like they could blow at any moment. OK route - I can't give this more than 2 stars because of rock quality. It MIGHT clean up a bit with traffic, but lets face it - n... more >>


Location: Richard Shore : Text : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Indeed, Mike. Those Kiwis can't take a straight photo! I like to think if it is presented this steep, it will keep the masses off this completely reasonable moderate route..


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Richard Shore When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: From the AAJ -

Hermit Spire, South Face. An interesting edifice of nature highlights the rolling subalpine hills west of the Little Kern River, closely north of Lloyd Meadows (several miles north of The Needles). Its base is shaped like a typical Sierra dome, but about 600 feet higher its walls slenderize to form a crest-like spire. Dan McHale and I spent Nov. 29 and 30, 1969 climbing the south face, which had to be reached by some cross-country effort. The climbing was spectacular but with a r... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Mean Streak (5.10c/d A1 R)
By: Richard Shore When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: SUPERB! As Bill noted above, be solid at 5.10+ before jumping on this rig. Excellent and varied climbing, runout knobs, splitter cracks, glassy slab, chimney, thin potato chip flakes, so good! P1 is the most runout hard pitch, and seems contrived when there is an obvious 5.7/8 variation just to the right - up the left-facing corner, then step left into a right facing corner/flake up to the belay. P2 is one of the toughest "5.10b"s you'll ever do, ENDURO hands up the overhanging/leaning corner wi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: No, that's not the one. It is on the plumb line straight down from the big oak tree. 1/2" red-head expansion bolt. I was never proud of the botch job, so never posted anything up here. Just throwing out a little history for anyone interested.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Matt - did you see the hangerless stud about 2/3rds of the way up the face? a few years back I made a ground-up ascent of this line, stance-drilling the bolt, and then I f@cking botched the damn thing (my only pro) stripping the threads while hammering it in. I left it as was and kept climbing. A foolhardy solo with a rope and bolt kit in tow.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Wicked Duke Takes a Wif... (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: This line was done years ago by Andy and crew, and maybe even earlier by a previous generation. Exactly as you describe the location.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : What Have You Done with My ... (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: The flake of doom is a little scary, but otherwise has lots of fun finger-and-tips jams with insecure feet. Trundled a hundred pound block off of the alternate start - I wouldn't recommend going that way.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Very nice line; certainly a contender for "best 15' finger crack" in SB, and undoubtedly the best (and only?) 5.8 finger crack. This is the cleanest line on the wall with excellent gear and jamming. I personally prefer Gnome Fingers, but this is a close 2nd.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: I spotted the tower from Arlington Peak a few weeks back, and noticed all the clean-looking and abundant cracks. Thanks for posting up, Jeff. Some good crack climbing to be found here, which will hopefully clean up with more traffic. A cordless leaf blower might be a good thing to add to your rack to help empty the loose dirt and leaves out from the cracks.

Where's the entry for Putrid Rat? I thought it was the best line on the tower - long, with lots of hand-slamming fun. 5.7ish?

Also - ther... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : The Boss Man (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Cool, Alex. I always wondered about this obscure line after reading the description in the old Tucker/Steele guide - something about the unknown grade of "difficult 5th class" intrigued me. 5.10a doesn't sound too difficult after all!


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