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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Richard M. Wright

Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 9,484
Last Year: 138
Last 30 Days: 0
113 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

 
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All 2292 | Routes 521 | Areas 142 | Photos 331 | Page Improvements | Comments 489 | Posts 52 | Stars 649 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 3, 2007

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Comments: Lee, no offense taken at all. I thought the pun was cute, honestly. I think that anyone who values our landscape has a stake in how this mitigation is carried out. CDOT may have its financial hands tied to some extent, but a poor solution now does little to create a viable long term solution. The sheds I would like to see used instead have been in use in Europe for literally a hundred years, perhaps more. I have a photo shot in the Dolomites last year that shows a shed that is more than a mile l... more >>


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 2, 2007

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Comments: It's a cute comment, Lee. But bear in mind that there are many crags and routes close to the road or only a short way up hill that have a good chance to be erased by CDOT's scaling or curtain hanging- "The crag they close may be your own (favorite)".


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 1, 2007

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Comments: CDOT road hazard mitigation is misguided at best. The massive scarring of Colorado's mountain sides is unnecessary, damaging, and ecologically irreversible. The use of steele curtains is certainly neither better nor remotely effective.

Recent articles in the Denver Post by Katy Human on Rock Slides and mitigation were interesting and informative. The second article in this series discussed mitigation efforts conducted by CDOT to prevent rock fall on Colorado's roads. The CDOT response to recen... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 8, 2007

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Comments: No. Pick up the trail right at the bridge. Just drop down as though you were going to the main cliff. The trail is picked up right by the river. Just stay on it instead of hiking up to the crag. You will encounter a few places where it leads right into the river, but these are easy to negotiate. I'll pull the topo's and see what I can learn about ownership.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 7, 2007

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Comments: Dana, funny you should ask. I did hike over in the snow, and I did the tracks as well on the same day. I didn't think the trail was bad at all. I ended up hiking on the ice half the time since the trail takes you right down to the river for most of the way. The only troublesome part was in the narrows where you can creep over the little falls, but this gets really slippery. This section stays open for a lot of the winter despite most of the river being iced over. The tracks were really a slog in... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 7, 2007

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Comments: Approaching via the trail that picks up at the bridge is not difficult, solves any issues with the RR, and saves running the tyro.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Upside The Cranium (5.10c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 7, 2007

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Comments: Hmmmm. No excuses. This route was logged into the old cb.com pretty hastily.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Major Bolt Achievement (MBA... (5.11a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 1, 2007

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Comments: Thanks, TA. Probably long overdue. This route, and the adjacent, badly need these upgrades.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: There are also several crags on the approach and east of Wonderland that will hold, and some may already hold, very interesting routes. So, in fact, the potential here is far from tapped out. Most of these subsidiary crags appear to be of excellent quality as well.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 26, 2006

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Comments: Dana Ernst has requested that this crag be removed from MP.com citing potential issues with the railroad and large numbers of climbers that may compromise access. Additional feedback would be appreciated before removing this important crag.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 22, 2006

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Comments: Thanks for the information, Geoff. I'll change the crag name. In fact we did see the short bolted arete - I had forgotten to list it. Ninja Ladder (14a) - no wonder we were getting destroyed !!! On the other hand, until now I was convinced that 5.14 did not use holds of any kind. I'd love to see someone on it who could actually climb it. The route is brillant by any standard, but in the BTC it's a supernova.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Caddis Cliff
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: Allen, we were a bit rushed and I did not look for other routes upstream. Certainly a few other trads routes could have been done, but a survey from the creek did not reveal any other bolted routes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: Bernard, I'm not entirely certain which crag this is, or even if it was climbed by time your guide was assembled. I had assumed, based on the distance and on your description of the trad line, that this was what you had called the "short wall, etc". This may be incorrect. My distances and description are largely on target, but the bolt line was anything but moderate. The routes we found were in an alcove that formed a right facing dihedral, with the routes on the right face and a steep gully on ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: Random scuttlebut has hinted that BG may have put this up...???


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Slab : NBD, Narcissistic Bolting D... (5.9+)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: I'm afraid so. I took that one right in the chest and figured it would make a good route name. The plan had been Eldo, but we ended up here for an NBD session. Moral: never trust a climbing partner....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Merlin (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 19, 2006

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Comments: FA and FFA is Alan Nelson and Richard Wright from some time in the '90s.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Irok : M1A1 (5.10d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 18, 2006

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Comments: M1A1 was a kick. Climbing is on some major (!!!) jugs and needs just a bit of commitment. The roof above was initially perplexing and could generate some bad rep for its shaky rock quality. However, if you simply punch straight up - rather than taking the traverse that seems obvious - then you avoid all of the dubious rock that you might otherwise have stood on. At the top, take a shake, lock and load. While it gets pumpy at the end, you won't find these jugs anywhere else in Clear Creek.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 20, 2006

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Comments: We hit Jug Dome and Mary's Bust on 16 July, 2006 when it was very hot nearly everywhere (103 in Denver). I thought that the climbing on both crags was fairly similar, but MB was significantly cooler (mid 80s) with most of the South face in the shade and in close proximity to the river. This made for basically comfortable climbing on an otherwise very hot day. As the route development grows on MB, the crag could be a nice choice on those blistering hot days. As a side note on BTC climbing in gene... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Capra Diem (5.8)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 23, 2006

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Comments: Simple enough story. I had tried to run straight up but could not find a sequence. I came in from the side because it would go. Seemed a bit tricky and powerful stacking up, getting the underclings, and the layaways. The rock seems sketchy off the belay but it seems to be solid enough that full body yarding has not reefed off anything significant.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 20, 2006

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Comments: Hi Scott !! Nice to know who has been at work here too. I would not have guessed that it was you, but after all the work you have done at the Head, CWC, CCC, and elsewhere I'm not surprised. It looked to me that both Dynamite and Suture Self had new gear added. At this point an updated topo might be useful. I have BG's pic, but as he indicated it is a tad sketchy and incomplete. If you or Allen had one we might circulate it and then post it for the sake of clarification. BTW, Allen, I have not y... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 19, 2006

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Comments: Allen, I would agree with your overall assessment of BTC climbing. On Mary's Bust, for the most part it is not the integrity of the rock that is really in question. While there can be some down right chossy stuff, a lot of the stone is as solid as stone can be. The North and East faces do require a lot of cleaning - and this is a huge dis-incentive for new route development. This is really not much different a situation than for any of the crags in this semi-alpine environment. The following lin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 10, 2006

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Comments: I hope that this will not turn into a minor fiasco. However, in the search for unclimbed rock close to Denver, Golden, and Boulder the Big Thompson Canyon has come up repeatedly as a poorly developed area over all. In fact, there are many, many untouched crags that could yield some excellent climbing and at a high standard. A lot of these are North facing and just plain filthy - a major caveat on Mary's Bust. Many are, as B. Gillett has described in guide to Estes Park Valley, just plain choss -... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Feb 14, 2006

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Comments: Here is the central issue missing from the present discussion. Grading any climb is a subjective process of refinement and consensus, and the posting of new routes in a public forum before the rotes have appeared in print allows the process of refinement and consensus to unfold in a timely manner. It is important to understand that when a new route goes in, and that is when Curvaceous got its grade, the grade applied reflects only the impression at the time. It is nearly a universal truth that ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 4, 2006

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Comments: In the Fall of 2005 I put in a variation to SG. The variation climbs two new pitches right of the last two pitches of SG but shares the first three pitches and belay stances. SG follows the left line of bolts. Mark and I went up to free the new route and came away feeling that some bolts needed to be moved. I finished this, and a little cleaning, probably in late August or early September, and the new placements will comfortize most of the climbing. Nonrtheless, there is a spot crossing the roo... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: N.B.: Waimea does, however, require 70 m or two ropes to hit he ground from the top of P1 (115 ft). It is possible to catch one of the belay stances left or right of Waimea and still get down with a 60 m rope. You will have to swing wide to do this.


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