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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Richard M. Wright


Point Rank: # 28
Total Points: 9,333
Last Year: 210
Last 30 Days: 11
105 Compliments
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Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

 
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All (2090) | Routes (516) | Areas (140) | Photos (320) | Comments (473) | Posts (40) | Stars (568) | Ratings (33)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Irok : M1A1 (5.10d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 18, 2006

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Comments: M1A1 was a kick. Climbing is on some major (!!!) jugs and needs just a bit of commitment. The roof above was initially perplexing and could generate some bad rep for its shaky rock quality. However, if you simply punch straight up - rather than taking the traverse that seems obvious - then you avoid all of the dubious rock that you might otherwise have stood on. At the top, take a shake, lock and load. While it gets pumpy at the end, you won't find these jugs anywhere else in Clear Creek.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 20, 2006

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Comments: We hit Jug Dome and Mary's Bust on 16 July, 2006 when it was very hot nearly everywhere (103 in Denver). I thought that the climbing on both crags was fairly similar, but MB was significantly cooler (mid 80s) with most of the South face in the shade and in close proximity to the river. This made for basically comfortable climbing on an otherwise very hot day. As the route development grows on MB, the crag could be a nice choice on those blistering hot days. As a side note on BTC climbing in gene... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Capra Diem (5.8)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 23, 2006

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Comments: Simple enough story. I had tried to run straight up but could not find a sequence. I came in from the side because it would go. Seemed a bit tricky and powerful stacking up, getting the underclings, and the layaways. The rock seems sketchy off the belay but it seems to be solid enough that full body yarding has not reefed off anything significant.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 20, 2006

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Comments: Hi Scott !! Nice to know who has been at work here too. I would not have guessed that it was you, but after all the work you have done at the Head, CWC, CCC, and elsewhere I'm not surprised. It looked to me that both Dynamite and Suture Self had new gear added. At this point an updated topo might be useful. I have BG's pic, but as he indicated it is a tad sketchy and incomplete. If you or Allen had one we might circulate it and then post it for the sake of clarification. BTW, Allen, I have not y... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 19, 2006

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Comments: Allen, I would agree with your overall assessment of BTC climbing. On Mary's Bust, for the most part it is not the integrity of the rock that is really in question. While there can be some down right chossy stuff, a lot of the stone is as solid as stone can be. The North and East faces do require a lot of cleaning - and this is a huge dis-incentive for new route development. This is really not much different a situation than for any of the crags in this semi-alpine environment. The following lin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 10, 2006

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Comments: I hope that this will not turn into a minor fiasco. However, in the search for unclimbed rock close to Denver, Golden, and Boulder the Big Thompson Canyon has come up repeatedly as a poorly developed area over all. In fact, there are many, many untouched crags that could yield some excellent climbing and at a high standard. A lot of these are North facing and just plain filthy - a major caveat on Mary's Bust. Many are, as B. Gillett has described in guide to Estes Park Valley, just plain choss -... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Feb 14, 2006

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Comments: Here is the central issue missing from the present discussion. Grading any climb is a subjective process of refinement and consensus, and the posting of new routes in a public forum before the rotes have appeared in print allows the process of refinement and consensus to unfold in a timely manner. It is important to understand that when a new route goes in, and that is when Curvaceous got its grade, the grade applied reflects only the impression at the time. It is nearly a universal truth that ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 4, 2006

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Comments: In the Fall of 2005 I put in a variation to SG. The variation climbs two new pitches right of the last two pitches of SG but shares the first three pitches and belay stances. SG follows the left line of bolts. Mark and I went up to free the new route and came away feeling that some bolts needed to be moved. I finished this, and a little cleaning, probably in late August or early September, and the new placements will comfortize most of the climbing. Nonrtheless, there is a spot crossing the roo... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: N.B.: Waimea does, however, require 70 m or two ropes to hit he ground from the top of P1 (115 ft). It is possible to catch one of the belay stances left or right of Waimea and still get down with a 60 m rope. You will have to swing wide to do this.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Hot Dog (5.11b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: What a kick. I may have been on Hot Dog with Alan at the FA or perhaps second ascent. Regardless, HD has a cool sequence in the hand traverse and nice movement at the end of the traverse. Two stars in Clear Creek.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Fiddler on the Woof (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: Without intending to bust open a now well worked discussion about drilling and chipping, I thought the movement through the roof was really fun. Big muscle moves on a big roof. What is done is done, so if you enjoy pulling big moves on jugs with limited approach and on good solid rock, Fiddler offers up a good option with some fun climbing.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Waimea (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 20, 2004

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Comments: Not the start, just the crux. Until I can figure out the short-bold-guys way, I'm using a tow-through. Frankly, it should be sussable. The climbing is reasonable right up to the 10 feet or so of thin crux, it stays hard through the crux, and then drops back down as you get back on the feet. Hanging it all together involves staying cool to the rest before the crux, moving powerfully through to good hands, and then getting the chill back into your veins. Hot shots like Mark do it on their seco... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Waimea (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 17, 2004

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Comments: Somebody needs to get chain on this guy. Mark is enough past his "30-somethings" that he could be sitting home toting the stogie and street talking the neighborhood kids, rather than slipping through 12+ like it was stroll around the park. Waimea looks like Waimea and climbs Mavericks on a bad day. Take the long board and some guns. P1 is the meat, and as Mark indiated, is much steeper than it appears. Dropping off from the anchor at the top of P1 leaves you 20 feet from the climbing at mid heig... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Little John's Big Stick (5.10a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 2, 2004

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Comments: On second reflection, perhaps it is all well and good to hold an ethical discussion over a minor route. It's likely that there would not be much to discuss if the bolts had been placed on the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge, or up Pervertical Sanctuary. Like all good discussions this one has at least two worthy and rational sides to it. Tony approached me with the proposition that because popular opinion seemed to lean heavily toward pulling the bolts on LJ, he would do so if I consented. This was ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 2, 2004

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Comments: Isn't it about time to put this discussion to rest? Sherwood Forest is an okay place to climb on a hot day. It produced a few good routes, but nothing of any real inspiration. I personally enjoyed some of them - Prince of Thieves has a couple of good moves, so do some of the others. Most of the grades have dropped down as we have picked the right sequences, something we usually get wrong when jumping on a new rock for the first time. The discussion over LJBS is far out of proportion to the route... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 30, 2004

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Comments: Bob - No argument there. We're all learning, I suppose. In trying to grapple with where S.D. is coming from, it was not hard to see his side of things. I guess, what I'd like to be able to do is to keep this broader view of things in mind all the time, and you're right I have not always done so. I'm also putting away a lot of very inflammatory things attributed to him. But part of my point in trying to balance the many things that come up when we put up new routes is that we all enjoy the "right... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 30, 2004

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Comments: Steve Dieckhoff has been a constant voice in the climbing community for at least as long as I have been climbing myself (4 May 1980). In this entire period, he has expressed a constant opinion, and as near as I can tell he has never relented and has never hidden from his opinion. He makes the point that placing a bolt trumps a trad placement, because it becomes a permanent feature of the landscape and asks the question "does placing a bolt confer a special right to permanently alter the landsca... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Aries (5.10)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: I found myself wondering why. The first twenty feet are interesting, but the real distinctness of the climb seems to peter out at that point. It works as a variation to either of the adjacent climbs, but neither really needs a more difficult start. Once again, a couple of TCUs will nicely get you to the third clip. Overall: okay with an interesting entry.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Cheap Labor (5.10a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: Nice thoughtful line. A single small TCR was useful between clips 2 and 3. Nothing is really needed further up. This is a very nice addition.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Lunchmoney (5.9+)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: Fun, thoughtful moves below a small roof band. The last 15 feet are on wonderful stone. A potentially significant concern is that the belayer looses sight of the leader once the leader has passed the roof band. Even double slings at the belay did not abrogate the problem. A small TCR was useful above the roof.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Vitamin-N (5.8+)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: Still needs a bit of brushing, but the entry moves under the flake are a kick. N.B.: I did pull off several small flakes in the headwall below the last bolt, so some of the rock is a bit friable up here. Overall, this is a nice moderate addition.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Smeagol's Way (5.11c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 20, 2004

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Comments: TB is being considerate here, inasmuch as he barely escaped with his life. Mark Tarrant and I had both been though Smeagol's Way and thought the route to be largely quite clean - but for some minimal surface flakes. However, when leading up through the very last move below the anchors, I stood on a square cut ledge of almost two inches width, weighted it, and was immediately air borne along with a 20 pound block. Thanks only to TB's attentiveness and awareness of this high altitude setting, h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Hypertension (5.12b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: 12b in the guides; I followed Rolofson's. "a" is more in keeping with things like the Ticket, which actually seems quite a bit harder.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Moving Zen (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: Second opinion: Moving Zen runs up nearly perfect stone to join Training Day at its pegmatite band in P1 and finishes at the three bolt belay of TD. Mark had originally considered stopping MZ short of the pegmatite, leaving it entirely on perfect granite, and the hard-core may quibble about finishing on more moderate terrain. The logic of finishing at the belay stance seemed good, and a lower belay just seemed unnecessary and cluttering. MZ has two distinct cruxes as Mark indicated. Negotiating ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 13, 2004

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Comments: Sorry, typo-ed the stars. Two stars at least.


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