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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Richard M. Wright

Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 9,557
Last Year: 176
Last 30 Days: 73
113 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2310 | Routes 525 | Areas 143 | Photos 333 | Page Improvements | Comments 496 | Posts 52 | Stars 653 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: We were at the Salt Block on Sat, 9 June, and the route just right of the chimney appeared to be a work in progress with only a few bolts on a very blank looking face.......


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 29, 2007

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Comments: There are two old aid lines on the west side of MB. Does anyone have any of the FA information on these routes?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hypnotherapy (5.11c/d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: Hypnotherapy dishes up some steep climbing right off the deck. While the rock is good throughout, it is a tad sharper than the rest at this crag. Tricky and pumpy for 25 feet, the line kicks back after you jam into the flake system. Hands and feet on the arete are both difficult to sus, and mid-arete has a bit of a reach move - unless you can squeeze the bugger to death.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hip-Op (5.11b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: HO is another surprising route on this surprising crag. While it looks like it should tick in at mid 5.9, it is really a full-on head trick on pumpy terrain. Difficult to sus and powerful to the end. I won't give away the beta, but when the line turns steep expect a fight. Rock is just about perfect. Just believe the grade.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hip, Hip, Hurray (5.12b/c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: Hip, Hip, Hurray is an excellent, steep (!!!!), and powerful route on nearly perfect rock. That Mark finds it closer to 12b than to 12c or 12d may reflect my presently bum hip and now diminished flexibility or simply his having caught too much sun at this crag. This route is steep, or did I already indicate that (?), really steep. What look like good edges from below turn out to be very hard to use and super finger intensive. Even the one slolt is hard to use. After six months of bouldering on p... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: This route has excellent thin moves to an off-balance dyno right onto the sharp edge of the arete. The Hipster delivers a lot of pump in 50 feet of climbing. Overall rock quality is excellent, the climbing continuous and interesting. Pro is dead-on perfect.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: I had considered making no comment on the crag and route names that Mark posted, but there is some higher lesson to be coaxed from the situation that Mark has reflected in the name selection. Most of my athletic life since junior high school was spent as a runner/ sprinter (100m, 200m, 400m, and 800m), and I have always considered myself more a runner than a climber. After 35 years of interval training on the track, my right hip has reached such a state of degeneration (osteoarthritis) that it h... more >>


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 3, 2007

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Comments: Lee, no offense taken at all. I thought the pun was cute, honestly. I think that anyone who values our landscape has a stake in how this mitigation is carried out. CDOT may have its financial hands tied to some extent, but a poor solution now does little to create a viable long term solution. The sheds I would like to see used instead have been in use in Europe for literally a hundred years, perhaps more. I have a photo shot in the Dolomites last year that shows a shed that is more than a mile l... more >>


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 2, 2007

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Comments: It's a cute comment, Lee. But bear in mind that there are many crags and routes close to the road or only a short way up hill that have a good chance to be erased by CDOT's scaling or curtain hanging- "The crag they close may be your own (favorite)".


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 1, 2007

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Comments: CDOT road hazard mitigation is misguided at best. The massive scarring of Colorado's mountain sides is unnecessary, damaging, and ecologically irreversible. The use of steele curtains is certainly neither better nor remotely effective.

Recent articles in the Denver Post by Katy Human on Rock Slides and mitigation were interesting and informative. The second article in this series discussed mitigation efforts conducted by CDOT to prevent rock fall on Colorado's roads. The CDOT response to recen... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 8, 2007

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Comments: No. Pick up the trail right at the bridge. Just drop down as though you were going to the main cliff. The trail is picked up right by the river. Just stay on it instead of hiking up to the crag. You will encounter a few places where it leads right into the river, but these are easy to negotiate. I'll pull the topo's and see what I can learn about ownership.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 7, 2007

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Comments: Dana, funny you should ask. I did hike over in the snow, and I did the tracks as well on the same day. I didn't think the trail was bad at all. I ended up hiking on the ice half the time since the trail takes you right down to the river for most of the way. The only troublesome part was in the narrows where you can creep over the little falls, but this gets really slippery. This section stays open for a lot of the winter despite most of the river being iced over. The tracks were really a slog in... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 7, 2007

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Comments: Approaching via the trail that picks up at the bridge is not difficult, solves any issues with the RR, and saves running the tyro.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Upside The Cranium (5.10c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 7, 2007

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Comments: Hmmmm. No excuses. This route was logged into the old cb.com pretty hastily.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Major Bolt Achievement (MBA... (5.11a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 1, 2007

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Comments: Thanks, TA. Probably long overdue. This route, and the adjacent, badly need these upgrades.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: There are also several crags on the approach and east of Wonderland that will hold, and some may already hold, very interesting routes. So, in fact, the potential here is far from tapped out. Most of these subsidiary crags appear to be of excellent quality as well.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 26, 2006

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Comments: Dana Ernst has requested that this crag be removed from MP.com citing potential issues with the railroad and large numbers of climbers that may compromise access. Additional feedback would be appreciated before removing this important crag.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 22, 2006

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Comments: Thanks for the information, Geoff. I'll change the crag name. In fact we did see the short bolted arete - I had forgotten to list it. Ninja Ladder (14a) - no wonder we were getting destroyed !!! On the other hand, until now I was convinced that 5.14 did not use holds of any kind. I'd love to see someone on it who could actually climb it. The route is brillant by any standard, but in the BTC it's a supernova.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Caddis Cliff
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: Allen, we were a bit rushed and I did not look for other routes upstream. Certainly a few other trads routes could have been done, but a survey from the creek did not reveal any other bolted routes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 19, 2006

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Comments: Bernard, I'm not entirely certain which crag this is, or even if it was climbed by time your guide was assembled. I had assumed, based on the distance and on your description of the trad line, that this was what you had called the "short wall, etc". This may be incorrect. My distances and description are largely on target, but the bolt line was anything but moderate. The routes we found were in an alcove that formed a right facing dihedral, with the routes on the right face and a steep gully on ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: Random scuttlebut has hinted that BG may have put this up...???


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Slab : NBD, Narcissistic Bolting D... (5.9+)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: I'm afraid so. I took that one right in the chest and figured it would make a good route name. The plan had been Eldo, but we ended up here for an NBD session. Moral: never trust a climbing partner....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Merlin (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 19, 2006

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Comments: FA and FFA is Alan Nelson and Richard Wright from some time in the '90s.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Irok : M1A1 (5.10d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 18, 2006

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Comments: M1A1 was a kick. Climbing is on some major (!!!) jugs and needs just a bit of commitment. The roof above was initially perplexing and could generate some bad rep for its shaky rock quality. However, if you simply punch straight up - rather than taking the traverse that seems obvious - then you avoid all of the dubious rock that you might otherwise have stood on. At the top, take a shake, lock and load. While it gets pumpy at the end, you won't find these jugs anywhere else in Clear Creek.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 20, 2006

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Comments: We hit Jug Dome and Mary's Bust on 16 July, 2006 when it was very hot nearly everywhere (103 in Denver). I thought that the climbing on both crags was fairly similar, but MB was significantly cooler (mid 80s) with most of the South face in the shade and in close proximity to the river. This made for basically comfortable climbing on an otherwise very hot day. As the route development grows on MB, the crag could be a nice choice on those blistering hot days. As a side note on BTC climbing in gene... more >>


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