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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Richard M. Wright

Point Rank: # 34
Total Points: 9,600
Last Year: 184
Last 30 Days: 33
113 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

 
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Contributions


All 2354 | Routes 528 | Areas 143 | Photos 333 | Page Improvements | Comments 510 | Posts 55 | Stars 666 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : New Hard Line on Mt Evans i...
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: If I understand this correctly, Piz's route is actually on Mount Warren, and the crag is the dominant formation seen on the approach to and at the Chicago Lakes. Check the photo to be sure.


Location: CO : Spanish Peaks
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 24, 2008

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Comments: The intrusive granitic dikes found around West Spanish Peak actually arise on Mount Mestas, Mount Lincoln, Sheep Mountain, and randomly around La Veta pass. The dikes can be up to 100 feet high and have seen some random climbing and rappelling exercises over the years. Even the local Boy Scouts have a merit badge for rapping the dikes. Much of the land through which the dikes run is BLM or National Forest and not private. From my own recon of the area, my impression is one of variable quality gr... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Proud Mary (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Nov 14, 2007

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Comments: Someone, not myself yet, may have done the rib free. Frankly, it's not really all that difficult. It's just tricky enough and continuous enough that it is easy to grab a hang and high clip. Stringing it together may simply be a matter of a little practice. I have not had a chance to return since my hip surgery. However, rehab is progressing fast enough that I was able to get out climbing for the last couple of weekends with only minor limitation. If weather holds, I may get back before the snow ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 25, 2007

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Comments: Tom, can you more accurately locate the crag in question?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: Tina, about 100 yards East of the Stone Point pullout is a smaller pullout on the right as you drive toward Estes Park. This little spot is the closest parking for Jug Dome, although the other pullouts are all very close. The spot is marked by several large boulders. The trail is best located on the right of the pullout although the start is a tad inconspicuous.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Linger Longer Rock : Compressor Route (5.9)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 15, 2007

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Comments: Hi Allen, painting the hangers is a fine idea. As I indicated before, I really have no trouble pulling a bolt where we can find good gear. If my surgery had not come up so quickly, I was planning on running through it again with this in mind as well as brushing it up a bit. As far as climbing it goes, I was trying to stay on the bolt line and away from the easier climbing out right. However, forcing a line may simply be pointless. I thought the rock straight up was nicer, but people will do what... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Linger Longer Rock : Compressor Route (5.9)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Allen, I put the route up shortly before going in for hip surgery, at the end of July, 2007. It was done solo, ground up, and on the lead, and this has always generated more bolts than I would like myself. I ran it using a rope solo technique at the time. My estimate was that a 60 meter rope may not quite touch ground, I did it with a 70 meter line with no trouble. Pulling some bolts near natural placements is fine with me, in fact I drilled most of the holes long enough that the hangers can be ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Evolution Revolution (5.12b/c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: Evolution Revolution is also the name a Udo Neuman climbing video that has some of the best Euro footage ever.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 19, 2007

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Comments: Do it, Josh. Walk softly.


Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 17, 2007

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Comments: Mark and I were doing some "finger training" in Eldo on the evening Michael was tearing up the place. He saw us at work and took a short detour on his way out of the canyon just to chat it up with some climbers he had never met. No spray. No ego. Just a very decent guy doing what he loved. I had to pump him just to learn that he had climbed close to a mile of Eldo, no rope, one day. What is so tragic and frustrating is that it was not soloing that claimed his life - just the hand of god reaching... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 10, 2007

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Comments: I quote: To all you punter sport climbers, not to start an ethics debate, but Anarchitect is a classic example of a route that should have never been bolted, In early June 2007, my friend, Matt L. fired the first FREE acent on trad gear rating this climb 5.12d/x. Please don't bolt routes that accept gear, and don't take climbing out of climbing. Anarchitect is a beautiful line that readily accepts the placement of gear. Let's keep it that way, oh and I'm not as nice as Matt, so when I send this ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 9, 2007

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Comments: It's definitely cool to run this route on trad gear. However, it might be nice to have a few questions answered just to help us all understand the ascent. 1) was any of the existing gear used in rehearsal?; 2) were the rap anchors used in getting off the route or did you walk off or set a trad anchor somewhere?; 3) was the gear pre-placed or did you place it on the lead? As for removing Alan's bolts, I think Hank has it right. Furthermore, I've known Alan for something like 2... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Priceless (5.12b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: NB: my comments on Priceless figure the route to have 5 not 4 pitches. A lot of parties may not string P1 and P2 together as Mark indicated. With care rope drag will not be a problem linking them. Communication could be a problem in brisk conditions. Rapping down will almost certainly deposit you at the top of P1 unless you run it on double ropes.


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Priceless (5.12b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: I'm not sure that I can add anything of substance to what Mark has described in the detached monotone appropriate for a climbing guide or a textbook on French cooking. What he told you here is just what you will find. But, age and decrepitude buys me a moment of reflection that may or may not alter your own perception of the climbing. Opening a big crag like Halidome is huge effort, and it is an effort that may very well fail. Rock may deterioriate, sections may not link up, parts may not even b... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: We were at the Salt Block on Sat, 9 June, and the route just right of the chimney appeared to be a work in progress with only a few bolts on a very blank looking face.......


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 29, 2007

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Comments: There are two old aid lines on the west side of MB. Does anyone have any of the FA information on these routes?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hypnotherapy (5.11c/d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: Hypnotherapy dishes up some steep climbing right off the deck. While the rock is good throughout, it is a tad sharper than the rest at this crag. Tricky and pumpy for 25 feet, the line kicks back after you jam into the flake system. Hands and feet on the arete are both difficult to sus, and mid-arete has a bit of a reach move - unless you can squeeze the bugger to death.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hip-Op (5.11b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: HO is another surprising route on this surprising crag. While it looks like it should tick in at mid 5.9, it is really a full-on head trick on pumpy terrain. Difficult to sus and powerful to the end. I won't give away the beta, but when the line turns steep expect a fight. Rock is just about perfect. Just believe the grade.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hip, Hip, Hurray (5.12b/c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: Hip, Hip, Hurray is an excellent, steep (!!!!), and powerful route on nearly perfect rock. That Mark finds it closer to 12b than to 12c or 12d may reflect my presently bum hip and now diminished flexibility or simply his having caught too much sun at this crag. This route is steep, or did I already indicate that (?), really steep. What look like good edges from below turn out to be very hard to use and super finger intensive. Even the one slolt is hard to use. After six months of bouldering on p... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: This route has excellent thin moves to an off-balance dyno right onto the sharp edge of the arete. The Hipster delivers a lot of pump in 50 feet of climbing. Overall rock quality is excellent, the climbing continuous and interesting. Pro is dead-on perfect.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: I had considered making no comment on the crag and route names that Mark posted, but there is some higher lesson to be coaxed from the situation that Mark has reflected in the name selection. Most of my athletic life since junior high school was spent as a runner/ sprinter (100m, 200m, 400m, and 800m), and I have always considered myself more a runner than a climber. After 35 years of interval training on the track, my right hip has reached such a state of degeneration (osteoarthritis) that it h... more >>


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 3, 2007

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Comments: Lee, no offense taken at all. I thought the pun was cute, honestly. I think that anyone who values our landscape has a stake in how this mitigation is carried out. CDOT may have its financial hands tied to some extent, but a poor solution now does little to create a viable long term solution. The sheds I would like to see used instead have been in use in Europe for literally a hundred years, perhaps more. I have a photo shot in the Dolomites last year that shows a shed that is more than a mile l... more >>


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 2, 2007

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Comments: It's a cute comment, Lee. But bear in mind that there are many crags and routes close to the road or only a short way up hill that have a good chance to be erased by CDOT's scaling or curtain hanging- "The crag they close may be your own (favorite)".


Location: CO : Clear Creek Canyon Closed
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 1, 2007

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Comments: CDOT road hazard mitigation is misguided at best. The massive scarring of Colorado's mountain sides is unnecessary, damaging, and ecologically irreversible. The use of steele curtains is certainly neither better nor remotely effective.

Recent articles in the Denver Post by Katy Human on Rock Slides and mitigation were interesting and informative. The second article in this series discussed mitigation efforts conducted by CDOT to prevent rock fall on Colorado's roads. The CDOT response to recen... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 8, 2007

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Comments: No. Pick up the trail right at the bridge. Just drop down as though you were going to the main cliff. The trail is picked up right by the river. Just stay on it instead of hiking up to the crag. You will encounter a few places where it leads right into the river, but these are easy to negotiate. I'll pull the topo's and see what I can learn about ownership.


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