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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: N.B.: Leo Paik has expressed the same idea as Bernard, so this may in fact be the end of it. However, it can't hurt to find out.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for thinking about this, Greg. I've known Tony for a million years, and I guarantee that he had nothing to do with chopping. If Bernard is right in his inference, then I'm not sure what to do. It remains a tad odd that an owner would leave a starting bolt in place but remove all the slab bolts. In the end, the bolts are considered abandoned property, and it's probably not worth getting too worked up about it. In addition, when I do get back on my feet, I will have significantly greater ob... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! I'm super impressed!! Stripping a moderate route because it can be done in another style makes such a macho statement: "ain't no room in my world for someone with less experience than me". I am so impressed!!!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations; nice addition to CCC. I'm surprised that it kicked up so many nice lines. We had scoped with it binoculars several years ago, were not really jazzed, and never humped up. Super job!! Have you thought about the crag way up the hillside - steep but solid rock.
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Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: More beta notes: October 2012, ABS and I had a chance suss out more sequence on this route. Current beta looks like 5.11+ up to clipping bolt three with a heel hook in place; super hard move off a bad rt hand sloper to gain the first deep finger slot and clip 4 (presently A0 off the bolt); hard awkward 5.12 turn off the slot gains a hard move into the second finger slot; this is followed by another hard and long turn to the left gaining a crisp corner, the stand up,... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Hot Dog (5.11b) : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Juggy enough, but a creepy solo - Cool job, Matt !!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sport Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On November 16 of 2012, ABS and I ran up for a quick run on several of these routes. We encountered no people, no resistance, and no trouble at all throughout the short day we spent at the crag. Low key BUVOS seems to have worked well here for the last two years. The climbing on this crag is really excellent. Working through the Access Fund to try and open it up is certainly worthwhile, and there is loads more potential for moderate and hard routes.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Falls Wall : Bones (5.13c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note on the grade: perhaps Mark has a better sense of this than I do; however, my take on it was harder than Rim Job proper, but not as hard as routes like The Web in Eldo or the Black Streak in CWC. That would put in the 5.13 category but perhaps not quite "c" ....
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Falls Wall : Bones (5.13c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, I was pretty certain that it had all been done free at the time, but not red pointed. Apologies to Mark if I'm wrong. Perhaps Tom (Hanson) or TA has further info. Anyway you cut it, linking it all up on red point is really cool. It's a lot of hard moves to stack together, and sharp. My recollection, not substantiated by any notes, is belaying TA through it on TR with everything done free, but again not red pointed. My own attempt was thoroughly dogged. But, we did get back for several runs... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Younger and stronger in 2001....
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Falls Wall : Bones (5.13c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I am not mistaken, which is always possible, this sounds a lot like the original variation to Rim Job, cutting right after the third bolt on Rim Job and firing up the steep, right side headwall, that was originally, and successfully, run by the Rim Job FA team. As I recall, the Bones variation was run free as a TR at the time but not given a clean red point (circa 1993). Did you place new bolts for the variation described or use the existing bolts for Bones? If the latter is true, you may or ... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Leaning Aid Crack (5.4 A2)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has this line been climbed free? A couple of years ago ABS and I ran it on a top rope, and while we did not do it free at the time, there seemed to be a reasonable sequence that could go free if you have the finger strength and the reach. Might make an excellent hard climb for the 5.14 generation.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : The Sub (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Grade: it is always tricky to regrade a route retrospectively. However, getting it right is a useful exercise. For The Sub, the following considerations would line up with the 12c rating (1) consensus seems to lean more to c than d; (2) is The Sub as hard as Anarchitect or Genesis? (hard sell); is it one letter grade easier than Chaos or The Rainbow Wall? (another hard sell); is it a letter grade harder than Movement of Fear or Sucking My Will to Live? (unlikely). T... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As D.G. indicated, Staunton SP is currently closed to public use. Nonetheless, we have the current cognoscenti slamming in new routes, climbing, clicking the pics, and laying claim to one of the largest of our State Parks. How exactly does this work? Closed but for us? Sounds like your tax dollars at work again.
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Location: CO : Golden : Ralston Buttes
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To quote TZ: "Closed Open Space". Your tax dollars at work. It might be useful if anyone knew of a mechanism by which the tax paying public could influence the status of Ralston Buttes. How would one go about pushing an agenda to open up this area? It is also interesting that a similar scenario is evolving at the Staunton State Park. This park was slated to open early in 2012 and is presently a long way from opening. It is understandable to fall behind a construction schedule, but this should no... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tzilla's comment is right on target and underscores what any seasoned climber knows: top rope through your own gear and not through in situ rap anchors, and rap from an in situ station rather than lowering from the station. Both practices increase wear on the in situ gear, generate sharp edges, and increase the likelihood of cutting a rope - just as lowering from a permadraw. Increased traffic on a route like Sucking My Will only emphasizes the rationale for using one's own gear. Like Peter said... more >>
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Location: CO : Georgetown
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd be jazzed to take over the process of completing the line but not if I would be excoriated as a bottom-feeding, route-stealing slug. While I may indeed be the former, I have never had to resort to the later.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Remission (5.7)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To paraphrase Oscar Wilde: "Cynicism is the [first] recourse of an unimaginative mind". An initial TR burn on Remission may be a good idea if you feel unsure of the stances. Once you know where to step, it feels roughly 5.8+/5.9. Panic in the Grey Room is loads more technical, thin!
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Location: CO : Georgetown
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Tigre. I wasn't sure if this was the same crag or not. After rapping in, it seemed likely. It also seems appropriate to determine if there is any intent on finishing the work. This last weekend I came prepared to knock the whole thing off in one short afternoon, but pinching a project is really low level, bottom-feeder stuff, so I did not do anything. There are other lines to be done on the same crag, but the main LOW follows the crack/seam system and would be stellar. If no one jumps in to c... more >>
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Location: CO : Georgetown
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Open project?? I went up to a small granite crag half a mile South of Georgetown on a recon mission. The crag sits just below the second switchback immediately South of town on the way to Guanella Pass. The crag can be approached from below or from above. My rappel from the top uncovered a couple of bolts, an anchor, and a fixed stopper. Clearly someone was looking at the same crag. The gear in situ appears to have been in for quite some time. In running the obvious line of weakness up the main ... more >>
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Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nine draws in 60 ft seems like a lot of steel; however, there are couple of places where a fall could result in a nasty encounter. Sweet Petite is bolted so that there should be no need to stick-clip the start.
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Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab a...
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personal opinion: We hit this crag on the way back from the Mill Creek Crag. We found the climbing to be okay, not remarkable. However, the noise of the highway on a Sunday afternoon was more than annoying. Drivers seem to think that if they see a climber there arises some necessity to set off a series of horn blasts. Not exactly serene, at least by conrast to Mill Creek, which really is a nice setting.
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Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had the opportunity to check out most of MCC routes this last weekend. While I recognize Harald's request for a bolt free area, I ran a TR through the overhanging crack and corner system 20 ft right of the Freeway route, the main dihedral on the West-facing wall. This would make fine, difficult route (5.11+ give or take a bit), but it would require at least partial bolt protection. I won't put it in with bolts if that is the consensus; however, it could be a really good addition.
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Location: CO : Empire : Junction Rock : Arete Rules (5.11)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beta note: we ran this on 10/7/2012, seemed to be nearer the 5.11+ range than middle. Using the dihedral can shave a bit off the difficulties, and it may be hard to avoid the dihedral altogether. Climbing felt thin and sharp, a bit like J-Tree. I thought it was pretty cool, two stars for sure.
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Location: CO : Empire : The Eyrie Sector : Wings of Glory (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: N.B.: I was unable to pry off the block at clip two on P2 using my standard crowbar. A long extension to the crowbar might work to get it off. I climbed cautiously around it without any particular trouble, but I did not use it. There are some good slots just around the block and great places for the feet that also avoid the block.
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