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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Richard M. Wright


Point Rank: # 31
Total Points: 9,416
Last Year: 226
Last 30 Days: 17
109 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

 
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Contributions


All 2118 | Routes 519 | Areas 141 | Photos 326 | Page Improvments | Comments 481 | Posts 44 | Stars 573 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Empire : The Eyrie Sector : Birds of Prey (approach) (5.11c/d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: 3 days ago

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Comments: August 18, 2014: I've put up a fixed line on BOP in order to do some final brushing on P2. This should come down this week. Additional routes to the right of BOP may require temporary use of the BOP top anchor.


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : King of the Mountain (5.13a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Nice find, Josh. I'm 5'8" and Mark is 6'1", so trying KM by stemming his way reaches a point where no matter how stretched I get my legs simply come off. We tried to locate some tiny fingers in the dihedral, but there is not much there. We never tried coming in from the left. It probably runs out a little, but a fall shouldn't cause you to hit anything. Cool solution.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: The two blocks above the chains were pulled off Sunday (July 13, 2014). I don't think they were ever a problem, but tagging the last hold above the chains feels a bit more comforting now. Pulling these off took double crowbars, both extended, and jimmying some rocks in the gaps just to tip them up enough to use the second crowbar to lever them off the cliff.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Wetterhorn Trail Boulders
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: I have been unable to locate any description of the boulders along the Wetterhorn Trail and in the Wetterhorn Basin; perhaps someone using MP.com has some beta. More than likely, anything you touch will be for the first time. Overall, bouldering here is something of a big project, but for a serious boulderer in the area and with the time, the Wetterhorn Trail is definitely worth checking out. It's also a beautiful place to be climbing.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.12/AO) (5.13)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Out of the chaos a sequence has begun to emerge for Lou Reed; but still a long way from a RP. LR is hard. In rough terms and with the current beta, I think that comparing it to "The Web" in Eldo is not far off the mark. No single move is particularly reach-dependent, so execution through the overlaps becomes the primary crux. The crux transition hold is a nasty little bugger dubbed "Steve McClure", because it's hard to imagine moving off it without Steve McClure's crimp power. No indiv... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.12/AO) (5.13)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Patrick Burwick and I had a chance to jump on Lou Reed last weekend after ticking off a bunch of the new lines on MCC. While I still think that LR is super hard, we did uncover an improbable undercling in the main roof that unlocks some of the beast. Helps, but did not free up the A0.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Doug's photo called to mind an opportunity I had to climb the Gem with Jim Garber shortly after the FA. Jim's flawless onsight was just so typical of him with his methodical, relaxed, deliberate style. His ability to clamp onto the tinest edges and hold on forever while he sussed out the coming sequence was just plain the coolest thing to observe. A brilliant moment in climbing.


Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Denver Bouldering Club
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I've been bouldering at DBC almost since the opening day. My personal opinion is that DBC offers a terrific venue for busy people looking for either a great problem solving session or a good workout on the campus board, weights, rings, etc. Boulder problems are re-set frequently for a very low boredom factor, and span the range from really, really hard to really, really easy. And the spread between these extremes is excellent. Problems have been set on walls that vary from sub-vertical slab to s... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: RE: Drew Spalding "This is an area I climbed at many years ago in the early nineties. I first toproped this line "Roof Rack" in probably 1992 and within that next year I came back to lead it also. I remember thinking it was 5.9+/10.a and certainly remember that distinct roof crack! I never did give it a name, because I was surely convinced that someone had climbed this obvious line before I did (probably in the '60s, '70s, and '80s). Good to see there is more lines to climb up there now."

Inter... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Power and Lies (5.10+)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: I watched some folks climbing PAL just recently, and it seems pretty clear why this route, unlike the two routes left of it, gets such disparate grades: 5.9 to 5.10+. When climbed on the bolt line and not well left of the bolts, it is good and solid 5.10, perhaps 5.10c. When done using the face on the left, it comes in close to 5.9, give or take a bit. Whatever works. Leading from the left does entail stretching over to the clips, so watch out.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Rafiki (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Rafiki has always posed a dilemma: starting on the face in line with the bolts or climbing the crack staying a bit right of the bolt line. I had the opportunity to work out some of the straight up moves in mid February, 2014. I don't think that this adds a lot to overall difficulty if you step back to the crack at bolt 3 and do the rest as Mark described. Personally, I think that the crux moving up and past bolt 4 is really hard, more like borderline 5.12 than mid-range 5.12. There is a good bea... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe
By: Richard M. Wright When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: From Melvin Glerup: "This email comment confirms that the so-called Pinecliffe climbing area is on Private Property. The Mountain Project should not publish that this is a climbing area. There is no chance that this property will ever be available for public climbing, and all climbing should cease. No access is granted from the Lazy Z area to the north. It is also time to remove the cable (tyrolean) as it is on Private Property on both sides of the creek."

We've seen this type of categorical cl... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.12/AO) (5.13)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Lou Reed got squeezed in between snow storms in the middle of November. It was actually bolted while the snow was falling. The crux getting past bolt 5 remains an A0 project at this point, but it provides great incentive to tone up the dynamic bouldering moves this winter. Looks like a lot of time on the campus board at DBC. The redpoint crux will be a solid number grade or more harder than climbing before and after bolt 5. The crux is a dynamic power crimp and throw through a steep bulge. It st... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Pinch Fest (5.12b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Like most limestone after a lot of use; makes one dream about granite.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Deflator-Mouse (5.11)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Super. Deflator-Mouse is much more steep and continuous than the photo might suggest. I thought the climbing was cool and pumpy. This terrific line is definitely worth a burn if you are at the MCC. Unfortunately, the lame photographer that caught Harald's lead missed Diana' RP burn entirely. Will try again if I can.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Marty, Click Colorado, scroll to comments.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : Ram (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: I had hoped to polish off Ram before the Mill Creek Dome got blasted by bad weather. I had the route sussed and went up with high expectations in mid-October, only to get shut down by the need for very aggressive climbing. Ram is just not something that can be approached in a mellow state of mind. From the very first move up the headwall right to the end, you just have to keep pushing. There is a good stance at the globe used for the dyno at clip 4 on the headwall, but the dyno and the subsequen... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : Sita (5.11c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: I thought it was a lot less painful to tape the back of the hands for the crux cracks on the final bit before the anchor. The cracks are not super bad, but the jams get torqued quite a bit in standing up.


Location: CO
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: With all of the devastation coming from the floods, it is remarkable that most of the Clear Creek drainage has escaped significant damage. From the Eisenhower tunnel to Denver, there appeared to be no significant damage, just high water. Things could have been much worse had Clear Creek flooded as well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9) : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: While I agree wholeheartedly with Leo as well, it is also well past time when the very dated hardware like the cold shuts used here should be replaced. For myself, the high grade steel used by Fixe, for example, should be used as replacement wherever this old gear is found. A lot of routes that were established 10 and 20 years ago were put in without appreciating the amount of traffic they would see or the stunning increase in the number of climbers that has emerged in the last several years.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: On my one rap in, I used a 100 meter static line off one of the Cedar trees above. Just hiking up was nasty. 70 meters would certainly get you over the roof and probably touch ground.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Chimney Rock : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Bolts or a few slings. Not much choice in my opinion. I did look around for a slings with knots type of Elbsandstein approach, but the rock is just not conducive. Holes drilled for removable bolts would work for pitches but not rap stations, and it seems a bit lame. It also invites wasps. If we are considering the big faces and not the crumbling chimneys, then there is just not much choice. But bear in mind that this is would not look like the Sport Park. It would be adventure climbing in the wi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Chimney Rock
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Re:Chimney ROCK. At least that's its official name, not Chimney Peak. Why does this bother me? :)

While it may not be worth too much BS&T, Chimney Peak is arguably the appropriate name. Ormes, in his Guide to Colorado Mountains, has referred to it as Chimney Peak since the first printing in 1952. So, it is not just a local moniker. Ormes notes that Chimney Peak distinguishes it from the numerous other Chimney Rocks in Colorado, including those in the San Juans. Ormes has been something of a Bi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Chimney Rock : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: It seems to me that for this irregular conglomerate if the cement base will hold a bolt, then the possibilities become limitless. When Anna I checked out the South Chimney (did not climb it!!), it was none too impressive. But, there is a lot of rock on this formation that does have a very solid base that could be bolted. Chimney Rock lies within the Uncompahgre Wilderness, and from what I can determine, bolts, but not power drills, can be used. Cimarron Ridge and Turret Ridge lie in the National... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The rock is terrific, bullet hard, and clean.


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