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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Richard M. Wright

Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 9,554
Last Year: 173
Last 30 Days: 70
113 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

 
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All 2308 | Routes 525 | Areas 143 | Photos 333 | Page Improvements | Comments 494 | Posts 52 | Stars 653 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Bunker
By: Richard M. Wright When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for getting this site cleaned up. When I first posted it on climbingboulder.com (as Uber-Lapland via MF), it was after speaking with a very strong Mike Frieschlag (sp?) and then checking out the crag with various partners. Where the equipper appears to be unknown, it almost certainly can be traced to him. At the time (mid '90s), there were half a dozen routes bolted, but as Mike indicated, none had been red-pointed except for the 5.11s on the left. I know a lot of strong climbers that hav... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Braneworld (5.11a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Braneworld has cleaned up nicely and climbs well. Some tightly adherent crustose lichen remains on the last several feet that did not pose a climbing problem at all. It might be slippery if wet from the rain however.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Here is a neat post-script note: I was up here on a cleaning day when the rain closed in with a long, slow drizzle. I was hanging off a fixed line in my raingear and doing my best "Fuller Brush Man" impression when the crag was descended upon by flock of 10 or so Hermit Thrushes. The whole forest burst into their song, which is one of the most magical and mesmerizing sounds imaginable. It was an utterly cool moment.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Dougald. It was nice to see you and Inga up there. It must be quite a bit out of your way. I have up-dated the grading to come more in line with the four of us. When Patrick and I jumped on the middle one, it still seemed 5.11d/5.12a, but by then the wall was taking a direct solar hit that made things feel a bit greasy, so I'd take the grade to be +/- close either way.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Randall Force (5.11b/c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Beta note: it was very nice to tape at least the middle two fingers of the left hand. They slide into a very sharp crack that can really dig into the skin.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Slammer (5.12b) : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: A bat-rest? Cute perhaps. When Alan Nelson did the FFA of Slammer, he hiked through it all sans rest like a stroll through the park. Getting the bolts in was loads more effort.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Double Stout (w/ extension) (5.14a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: Great video feed, Darren, and what a brilliant ascent by Mark Anderson. We had rapped this sector back in the '90s figuring it to be possible by stronger, better climbers than us. The heel hook sequence through the roof, and the ability to pull through on it is worth endless study. This is an object lesson on how to climb powerfully, creatively, and boldly. Must have been terrific just to witness it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Geneva Creek Crag
By: Richard M. Wright When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: While I have climbed at Geneva Creek Crag for several years now, I have been unable to locate any published material. My impression is that the left side of the crag hosts several climbs, fully bolted, that seemed to run 5.10 to 5.11 in difficulty. The right side of the crag is severely overhanging and contains two apparently very difficult routes, although I have not been on either. There is a more moderate route that I have done that is in the same alcove. There is also opportunity to run a se... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Convenience Cliff holds a number of very nice routes, sees relatively little traffic, and has a very accessible trail. The great sun exposure makes CC appealing for even a mid-winter day. The climbing reminded me of a trip to the Flatirons or even Eldo. While we had climbed these routes shortly after their installation many years ago, I had forgotten just how nice the climbing is. The cliff is pretty small, well bolted, and provides something for everyone. We climbed here and at the Mill Creek D... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: If this photo can't get your itch going nothing will.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : New Road (5.11a/b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: FFA: Alan Nelson, probably 2000.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Peg Leg Wall : The Flamed, The Pumped, The... (5.11a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was a D'Antonio route, circa 1987. I know we got on it close to '87 when he was doing a lot of these.


Location: CO : Empire : The Eyrie Sector
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Mark Tarrant put in a sparsely protected (bolts and slings) route that takes off from the cozy ledge system right of the Eyrie Sector proper. This will take you up to point where you can scramble to the top. On the way it passes a system of roofs composed of more terrific rock. This sector would easily hold half a dozen high quality routes.


Location: CO : Empire : The Eyrie Sector : Birds of Prey (approach) (5.11)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: August 24, 2014: I did not have a chance to pull the old ground line evident in the picture. It has been around for a while and might best be avoided or used sparingly. It runs to the old rap line and not to the top of BOP, so it's not much use for getting down to the BOP rap.


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : King of the Mountain (5.13a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Nice find, Josh. I'm 5'8" and Mark is 6'1", so trying KM by stemming his way reaches a point where no matter how stretched I get my legs simply come off. We tried to locate some tiny fingers in the dihedral, but there is not much there. We never tried coming in from the left. It probably runs out a little, but a fall shouldn't cause you to hit anything. Cool solution.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: The two blocks above the chains were pulled off Sunday (July 13, 2014). I don't think they were ever a problem, but tagging the last hold above the chains feels a bit more comforting now. Pulling these off took double crowbars, both extended, and jimmying some rocks in the gaps just to tip them up enough to use the second crowbar to lever them off the cliff.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Wetterhorn Trail Boulders
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: I have been unable to locate any description of the boulders along the Wetterhorn Trail and in the Wetterhorn Basin; perhaps someone using MP.com has some beta. More than likely, anything you touch will be for the first time. Overall, bouldering here is something of a big project, but for a serious boulderer in the area and with the time, the Wetterhorn Trail is definitely worth checking out. It's also a beautiful place to be climbing.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.12/AO) (5.13)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Out of the chaos a sequence has begun to emerge for Lou Reed; but still a long way from a RP. LR is hard. In rough terms and with the current beta, I think that comparing it to "The Web" in Eldo is not far off the mark. No single move is particularly reach-dependent, so execution through the overlaps becomes the primary crux. The crux transition hold is a nasty little bugger dubbed "Steve McClure", because it's hard to imagine moving off it without Steve McClure's crimp power. No indiv... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.12/AO) (5.13)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Patrick Burwick and I had a chance to jump on Lou Reed last weekend after ticking off a bunch of the new lines on MCC. While I still think that LR is super hard, we did uncover an improbable undercling in the main roof that unlocks some of the beast. Helps, but did not free up the A0.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Doug's photo called to mind an opportunity I had to climb the Gem with Jim Garber shortly after the FA. Jim's flawless onsight was just so typical of him with his methodical, relaxed, deliberate style. His ability to clamp onto the tinest edges and hold on forever while he sussed out the coming sequence was just plain the coolest thing to observe. A brilliant moment in climbing.


Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Denver Bouldering Club
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I've been bouldering at DBC almost since the opening day. My personal opinion is that DBC offers a terrific venue for busy people looking for either a great problem solving session or a good workout on the campus board, weights, rings, etc. Boulder problems are re-set frequently for a very low boredom factor, and span the range from really, really hard to really, really easy. And the spread between these extremes is excellent. Problems have been set on walls that vary from sub-vertical slab to s... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Richard M. Wright When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: RE: Drew Spalding "This is an area I climbed at many years ago in the early nineties. I first toproped this line "Roof Rack" in probably 1992 and within that next year I came back to lead it also. I remember thinking it was 5.9+/10.a and certainly remember that distinct roof crack! I never did give it a name, because I was surely convinced that someone had climbed this obvious line before I did (probably in the '60s, '70s, and '80s). Good to see there is more lines to climb up there now."

Inter... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Power and Lies (5.10+)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: I watched some folks climbing PAL just recently, and it seems pretty clear why this route, unlike the two routes left of it, gets such disparate grades: 5.9 to 5.10+. When climbed on the bolt line and not well left of the bolts, it is good and solid 5.10, perhaps 5.10c. When done using the face on the left, it comes in close to 5.9, give or take a bit. Whatever works. Leading from the left does entail stretching over to the clips, so watch out.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Rafiki (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Rafiki has always posed a dilemma: starting on the face in line with the bolts or climbing the crack staying a bit right of the bolt line. I had the opportunity to work out some of the straight up moves in mid February, 2014. I don't think that this adds a lot to overall difficulty if you step back to the crack at bolt 3 and do the rest as Mark described. Personally, I think that the crux moving up and past bolt 4 is really hard, more like borderline 5.12 than mid-range 5.12. There is a good bea... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe
By: Richard M. Wright When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: From Melvin Glerup: "This email comment confirms that the so-called Pinecliffe climbing area is on Private Property. The Mountain Project should not publish that this is a climbing area. There is no chance that this property will ever be available for public climbing, and all climbing should cease. No access is granted from the Lazy Z area to the north. It is also time to remove the cable (tyrolean) as it is on Private Property on both sides of the creek."

We've seen this type of categorical cl... more >>


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