Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led with Sarah today. Challenging crux for me, but protected it with a #2 cam in the crack. Rested (hung) on the rope while I figured out the moves through the roof. Once I figured out the moves, it wasn't too bad for me. Sarah climbed it in tennis shoes :-]
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : North Face (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route and outstanding double-rappel. Did it in three pitches with a 70m rope. First pitch is definitely the best, following a nice crack up a vertical wall. The other two pitches are standard Flatiron face climbs going about 5.2 with few places for protection. Would give the climb and raps four stars if not for the long approach.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Waiting for Staircase 1-3 (5.8-)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed all three routes today with my wife. All of the bolts and all three anchors/chains look good. Appears to be a new set of anchors/chains at the top of Kansas Honey (1st pitch) -- thanks to whoever put them up! I thought the crux on all three routes was either getting to the 1st bolt, or the 2nd bolt. Once past those bolts, the rest of the climbing is pretty straightforward (5.7ish). A little run out at the very top of Kansas Honey and the middle route but the climbing is straightforw... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Arch Rock Route (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed today with my wife. A great moderate route that protects well. The "direct" start (see photo) is very tough -- 5.9+ or harder. The regular start (fifteen feet left) is easy (5.6?). Both take you to a small ledge about fifteen feet off the ground. From there the route follows an obvious crack which stops just below the first belay ledge. Plenty of rests along the way. You will need to do about 8 feet of face climbing (5.7+) to get up on top of the first belay ledge which is wide an... more >>
|
Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Gorilla Milk (5.7+)
By: Rich F. When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed the route today and there were two bolts on the ledge at the top of the route -- and both bolts had hangars on them. Thank you to whoever put them up!
|
Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Strawberry Jam (5.5)
By: Rich F. When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'd with my wife today. Will probably feel more like 5.6 or 5.7 in couple of places if you are short, but it has good rests. Although the route follows the offwidth, it's probably easier to climb using the face on either side of the crack. Fun climb, but short like everything else here.
|
Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Tent Peg : Tent Peg (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the Tent Peg, but started on the opposite (North) side in a wide crack that faces the Hairy Pin. Climbed up, then traversed around to the left to join the same final runout to the top. Fun climb, with terrific exposure heading to the top, and a super small summit.
|
Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : The Fan : Moonlight Rib (5.3 R)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route -- easy to get to, easy climb, and great exposure for the last fifteen feet to the summit. Not sure why it is rated 5.3 here (I'm also not sure what a 5.3 route is exactly), but if you look at the pictures you can see that last bit of the climb is nearly vertical. Although the holds are big, there is little protection, unless you tie off a knob with a sling. I'm not a very good climber, but I like the 5.5 rating for this one.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Friction (5.5)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route and well protected. The "crux" is getting to the first two bolts, then it's very easy the rest of the way to the anchors. To me the first 15 feet felt like 5.6 climbing, while the top half of the route was much easier. A fun, but short, climb.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, easy, long, climb. Although it has an "R" rating, and protection is sparse in places, did not feel too exposed. The two eyebolts on the 1st pitch were well placed, the face is fairly low angle, and the friction is fantastic with rock shoes.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Shangrila (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great views on easy rock. On the first pitch I climbed the ridge immediately right of the watergroove. Never found a place for good protection, but it was easy climbing (maybe 5.4?) so I just ran it out to the belay. Second pitch had better exposure and was protectable with a few cams and some slings over horns. Again, easy climbing (5.5?) but the views were magnificent. In accordance with the route description above, I continued up the same ridge, right of the decent trough and immediately... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Family Values (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed route today with my wife. All four bolts still look good, as do the anchors. The sling is gone. Overall a fun route, just wish it were longer.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route but crowded on Saturday. At the base of the climb at 8:40AM we were 3rd in line. Unfortunately, the 2nd party had difficulty climbing the 1st pitch of Magical (eventually, they gave up and retreated). So, after an hour of waiting we chose to climb the large block that starts Neko's, then veered up and right to the right-facing Magical dihedral. With a 70M rope we linked the first two pitches together with just enough room to belay at the far right of the walk off ledge. This hybri... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fabulous route! Climbed it with my wife on Friday. Probably the toughest "short" 5.7 trad climb I've ever led. Protects well, but had to think through the zig-zag bulges and roofs. The moves through the A-frame roof seemed harder than 5.7 to me -- especially on my first attempt! Second try went better after my wife graciously pointed out a good place to stem with my right foot. Despite (or maybe because of) the challenge, I loved the route. I'll be back!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Roof By-Pass (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route today with my wife. One of the better moderate "crack" climbs I've done with lots of opportunity for left hand jams, and a few good face moves. Good protection with cams in the crack -- used everything from a #0.4 to a #3 BD Camalot. At the top of pitch 1 we belayed from a small (12 inch wide) ledge on the right side of the roof with two solid bolts that normally serve as anchors for the sport face climb just right of Roof Bypass. Above this ledge there is abou... more >>
|
Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed with Dave G. and Dan F. on May 23rd. Great climb from start to finish. Surprisingly little traffic on Saturday of Memorial Day weekend. Took and used a #5 BD Camalot repeatedly on this route -- was nice to have the big cam. Finished with the Bailey Direct route and some enjoyable face climbing after a day filled with OW and chimneys. Fun trip!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes... : Crack Parallel (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fabulous climb from start to finish. Bolts all looked great -- spaced out just enough to add some spice to the climb, especially near the top. Can exit left early on 2nd pitch, or climb last 20' over the top on much thinner holds. If you choose to go over the top (recommended!) there's an old piton that still looks reasonable to clip in a horizontal crack about 6' from the top ledge. Take some shoes/boots for the hike down the scree-filled gully back to the car after the climb. Still one of... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Bob's Buttress Crack (5.9-)
By: Rich F. When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route on solid rock. Well-protected crack with BD Camalots in the #0.75 to #1 range. I also used a #2. Fell on lead near the top (thanks for the catch, Dan!). The moves were at about the 5.8 level, but it seemed quite sustained to me. I took too long on lead sinking in protection and my arms were worn out by the time I reached the top -- though it's only about a 60 ft pitch. Fun route, though!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : New Era (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed New Era today with my wife. One of the best routes in the Garden -- great rock, lots of exposure, variety of moves. Combined the first two pitches to the belay alcove, then rapped back down from there. Solid rap anchors in the belay alcove, but requires two ropes (my 70m rope would have been at least 10m short).
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Coyote Wall : Pete's Classic Corner (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Crux is at about the 4th bolt. Our 60m-rope rappel from the anchors only made it down to the 1st bolt and we had about a 20 ft downclimb from there. Not a bad downclimb, but would have been nice to have a 70m rope. Still, its definitely one of the best moderate climbs at Red Rocks.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : Electric Swimming Pool (5.9)
By: Rich F. When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed today with Dave G. and Dan F. All three led. A great climb with a very interesting crux -- edging up a slanted dike with no hands, except for the dike itself (see pic). Well-placed bolts protect the crux. Fun climb, highly recommended.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : El Sol (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed today with Dave G. and Dan. Challenging crux getting past 1st bolt -- pretty much just feet and friction there. Felt like 5.7 to me. Short but fun climb.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Lance (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Nov 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this with my son, Danny, today. Enjoyed the route a lot for a 5.6. The route calls for a little face climbing and some chimney/offwidth climbing. It protects well with small to medium cams. This route has a couple of places where it makes you think about the best way up -- like just below the large flake overhang near the start of the route. Fun route, and I don't think it gets much traffic.
Descent -- rappeled from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of scarecrow. I rappe... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Potholes (5.7) : Photo
By: Rich F. When: Nov 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good Beta photo, but that bolt is now the 2nd bolt. There is a solid 1st bolt about 10 ft below and left of that bolt, which makes this route much better protected.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : North Ridge, White Twin Spi... (5.7 R)
By: Rich F. When: Nov 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are one or two very old pitons, and you can probably find a few places for cams as well. But, I top roped it with my son after climbing the south ridge first. I enjoyed this route as much, or more, than the south ridge. It looks harder than it really is, and I highly recommend it.
|
RSS Feed
