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21-August-2012: Me just before heading up the Twil...


Member Since: Jun 30, 2006
Last Visit: Apr 7, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 570 | Routes 22 | Areas | Photos 80 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 146 | Stars 231 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : The Obelisk : Southeast Buttress (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Oct 3, 2012

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Comments: Pro to 3 inches helps with the OW (we thought it more like .7 or .8) and the exit move on the third pitch.

We opted to do the first pitch a little differently: instead of the steep corner on questionable rock, I headed right and up a juggy face. My partner got a short pitch up a fun and similarly juggy arete-like feature, then stepped left and belayed. A couple of options exist to join the third pitch as written above, which lived up to the praise -- we really enjoyed that one.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Norman Clyde Peak : Twilight Pillar (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: I posted a picture of our approach; it was fairly straightforward fourth class and and mostly slabby, though I think there were one or two places where we engaged in some squeeze chimney antics (probably close to the end).

We belayed at the start of the 5.8/5.9 dihedral, and with a 60m rope climbed four pitches to a point just below the summit.

The descent probably took us as long as the roped climbing. We made 5 raps down the NNE ridge, then traversed across and back to the Thunder... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Photo
By: rhyang When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Clint. I was going to delete this photo, but MP won't let me. Oh well.

The partner I did this with has a penchant for obscure, zero-starred routes. Have had some real adventures climbing with him !


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Flumes Formation : Photo
By: rhyang When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice annotations, but some errors as follows :

1. First pitch of Tilting Terrace (5.8) shares first bolt with Nipples and Knobs (5.10a).

2. Adams Apple (5.9) starts from first pitch belay of Tilting Terrace.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Icefields Parkway : ... : Lower Weeping Wall (WI4-5)
By: rhyang When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: The right-hand rappel route starts at a stout tree with a chain around it; there are two more stations to the ground, and we made it with 60m half ropes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Yellow Brick Road (WI3+)
By: rhyang When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Jason ! I've added this info to the route description. If Bob remembers the year of the FA, that would be great to include too.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Cuticle Corner (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Dec 22, 2011

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Comments: It looks a bit steep at first; remember to stem.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Tyndall : North Rib (3rd)
By: rhyang When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: If free of snow (fairly obvious from approach), the slabs to the right of the rib proper are much cleaner. Class 2-3 friction.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: rhyang When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: Tried leading the mantel but backed off. Downclimbed back to belay and then down the gully left to a tree with rap slings on it. From there I headed up and left on easier terrain, then traversed right above the mantel to the top of the buttress. High-gravity day I guess :)

So if you get psyched out by the mantel, there is an escape.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice : Bard Harrington Wall : Bard Harrington (WI3-4)
By: rhyang When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: Decent route overview here -

aboutmyadventure.com/directori...

Still pretty good conditions as of 13-March-2011.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice : Chouinards
By: rhyang When: Jan 12, 2011

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Comments: The Bard-Harrington Wall started coming in late last season (Feb. 2010) and has been climbed recently (January 2011).

Whether this is because of any alleged leaks in the penstock or because of a higher amount of precip is a matter of conjecture & rumor.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice : Chouinards : Main Line (WI3-4)
By: rhyang When: Jan 12, 2011

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Comments: The picture shows a line on Chouinard Falls, but the description seems to imply the leftmost line on the Main Wall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Tiburcio's X : Coyote Ugly (5.9)
By: rhyang When: Jan 2, 2011

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Comments: As of last Tuesday (28-Dec-2010) there was a 7th bolt protecting the 5.10c direct finish.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Flumes Formation
By: rhyang When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: According to Brad Young's excellent guidebook , there are five parts of this formation with established routes. Here are approach instructions to the NE side :

1. From the westside parking lot, take the Balconies Trail (NOT the North Wilderness Trail), from the far end of the Chaparral picnic area.

2. Turn left at the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail.

3. Cross about five footbridges. At the 'climber access' sign for the Destiny Wall ('Destiny' is a... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Regular Route (5.8 PG13)
By: rhyang When: Nov 26, 2010

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Comments: Brought gear (cams), but didn't use it. Draws / slings probably sufficient for most folks.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Red Slate Mountain
By: rhyang When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: For the North Couloir, head up a use trail from Mildred Lake to Lake Wit-So-Nah-Pah. You can also get there by crossing the Mildred Lake outlet and going up to Lake Dorothy / Bighorn Lake / etc.


Location: CA : High Sierra : North Peak : North Face North Couloir (r... (AI3 Steep Snow)
By: rhyang When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: The scramble to the summit can be as easy as third class if you go a bit left on obvious ledges. You will pop out onto the SW face a bit below the true summit -- from there it's class 2 to the top.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Matterhorn Peak : North Arete (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: Note that Fiddler & Moynier's Climbing California's High Sierra: The Classic Climbs on Rock and Ice has a diagram that shows this route starting from the opposite couloir (west) instead of east. Secor and supertopo show it starting from the east couloir, so that's what we did.

Having a #4 on the last pitch was good, as it widens out in places, but I'm sure the more accomplished wide fetishists can do without :)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Degeneration (5.10a)
By: rhyang When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Was just there - the route seems to be closed (sign attached to bolt anchors). I guess the vultures are back.


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : Six Toe Rock : Six Toe Crack (5.8+)
By: rhyang When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: You can do a third pitch of about 100' to the top of the formation. Take the dihedral up the right side, about 5.6. There are two nice new looking bolts and rap chains at the top, contrary to what the guidebook says.

The offwidth on pitch two can also be traversed around on the right (though I think this is part of the neighboring route, Chocksucker). Extra #0.75 - 1 camalots can come in handy to protect the traverse.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: rhyang When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: I'm 5'10" and have a hard time with the first move -- for whatever reason I pretty much have to lieback it. Five years ago I followed it and had the damndest time until I did that.

When I led it today I reached up and placed a yellow (#2) C3 before leaving the ground and that gave me peace of mind enough to pull the lieback. YMMV


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Flumes Formation : Bits and Pieces (5.9)
By: rhyang When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: See Brad Young's latest Pinnacles guidebook (2007) for info on Bits and Pieces Extension (5.9). The route is ~90' high and has 8 bolts. The anchor is shared with Wet Paranoia (5.9, TR) and one 60m rope was sufficient to rap to the ground.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Left Side (5.7)
By: rhyang When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Starting to the left of The Grack, Center you can avoid the hordes heading up the more popular route. This is maybe 5.5 - 5.6 at most.

btw The bush/tree at the first belay isn't eucalyptus :) I seem to remember the smell of bay leaves.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: rhyang When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Rapped with two 60m ropes. From the first bolt anchor these got us to a ledge about 20' below the starting ledge, which made the descent more casual .. class 2-ish. If the initial scrambling wigs you out there are usually rap slings off a bush on the right side of the starting ledge.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Biscuit and Gravy (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: First moves are the hardest. Two bolts, then move right and head up the left-facing corner, which is something like 5.6. A couple of smallish cams between 0.6" and 1.25" work in the corner. From there several more bolts lead up to the anchor. Fun and short !


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