Comments: My friend Evan was able to send this last year and I came pretty close but kept slipping off on the crux. I'm sure it had been done back in the day being a plum but the name really fits. High on my list the next time I go back. Theirs also a couple easier problems to the left which fit in well as warmups (V0/1) with the Roadside Warmup just below.
Comments: I'm a 5'9 200lb barrel chested frame so starting inside the chimney at the bottom wasn't even a consideration. I tried laybacking to the right on the outside (almost worked) and then tried an opposing gaston type move with no success (end of session I was tired). Either way, as far as chimneys go this one is awesome regardless of its difficulty.
Comments: A plethora of easy high ball vertical cracks. Backbone ridge is so much fun with some great sandstone features. A cool midweek afternoon in late April and I had the place to myself. At the end of my session I tried what I thought would be an easy narrow chimney on the west side and was sent packing. Can't wait to come back.
Comments: I bumped into Boulder#1 after taking the kids out to Rome Point to see the seals haul out on the rocks. Good quality rock with fair height and although it lacks steepness it can offer some fun problems and even some difficulty if one is willing to contrive.
Comments: I've been climbing in from the right but the crux at the top is essentially the same. Scary as hell that is. I made it to the layback again last night but ended up pissing myself downclimbing from the crux. two words for this one; gripped and pumped. Can't wait to grow a pair and send.
Comments: I was cleaning the flake to left on the start and a piece fell out making a sidepull flake which made a substantially better starting hold than the left undercling. Unfortunately it also added about 6 inches in reach to the incut hold you can dyno to. Might be an easier start for someone tall but that upper incut is anything but easy. I stuck that thing like 6 times and each time I fell off once I tried bumping up to a better hand hold or took my left foot off. I've been climbing pretty regular ... more >>
Comments: After keeping an eye on the boulder for the last year+ It seems the owners started to develop the lot behind the boulder and then stopped. I've climbed here lately with no problems but do so on the down low and if you run into any problems post here asap. Hard to say but its also possible the Midden boulder is not on the posted property (like they did by the cluster which is definitely posted beyond the property line.)
Comments: I finally got this one today with some ease considering I struggled on it in the past. Possiblly V2+ for shorter stockies people like myself. Evan who's tall couldn't do it yet and he definitely climbs harder than me. Fun problem.
Comments: Me and a friend designated the 4 inch wide hueco about 4 foot overhead as the GloryHole. Sounds like the pocket your describing. A rare granite hold. Awesome how you can gaston the hold to make the step up.
Comments: Great name. This line has been on my project list for way too long. The pinches get me every time. You should give ViceGrip on the Broken Moon boulder out at Wickaboxet a try sometime (way beyond my ability).
Comments: I gave this a PG13 rating not because of the placements but because of loose rock. In one case my partner above me moved a very large rock (5'x8') with very little pressure. We climbed around it but if he had knocked it from its perch I most likely would not have avoided it.
Comments: I think what Mr. Shultz was trying to point out was that the spotters were risking injury. Experience has taught me that no spot can be and often is safer.
Fairly tall (12-18 feet), vertical (give or take a little), and a level landing can be best spotted away from the pad only helping a falling climber if he/she is flying off the pad into other obstacles (trees and rocks etc.). Allow the pad to do its job.
Of course every climb is different and a more direct spot might be beneficial (climbe... more >>
Comments: I think the problem is way better from the sit. A shallow side pull around the right with a crimpy undercling on the left(or free hand it if your strong enough). A few intermediaries before the horizontal can help out or be skipped with strength or dynamics. Fun topout. Probably V2/3.
Comments: The problem to the right of Vice Grip is 3star problem. A V2/3 if I remember right possibly called "Lonely Planet". I only sent it because Mike G and Marc T gave me all the beta. Really fun and each move within the grade.