Comments: I've been climbing in from the right but the crux at the top is essentially the same. Scary as hell that is. I made it to the layback again last night but ended up pissing myself downclimbing from the crux. two words for this one; gripped and pumped. Can't wait to grow a pair and send.
Comments: I was cleaning the flake to left on the start and a piece fell out making a sidepull flake which made a substantially better starting hold than the left undercling. Unfortunately it also added about 6 inches in reach to the incut hold you can dyno to. Might be an easier start for someone tall but that upper incut is anything but easy. I stuck that thing like 6 times and each time I fell off once I tried bumping up to a better hand hold or took my left foot off. I've been climbing pretty regular ... more >>
Comments: After keeping an eye on the boulder for the last year+ It seems the owners started to develop the lot behind the boulder and then stopped. I've climbed here lately with no problems but do so on the down low and if you run into any problems post here asap. Hard to say but its also possible the Midden boulder is not on the posted property (like they did by the cluster which is definitely posted beyond the property line.)
Comments: I finally got this one today with some ease considering I struggled on it in the past. Possiblly V2+ for shorter stockies people like myself. Evan who's tall couldn't do it yet and he definitely climbs harder than me. Fun problem.
Comments: Me and a friend designated the 4 inch wide hueco about 4 foot overhead as the GloryHole. Sounds like the pocket your describing. A rare granite hold. Awesome how you can gaston the hold to make the step up.
Comments: Great name. This line has been on my project list for way too long. The pinches get me every time. You should give ViceGrip on the Broken Moon boulder out at Wickaboxet a try sometime (way beyond my ability).
Comments: I gave this a PG13 rating not because of the placements but because of loose rock. In one case my partner above me moved a very large rock (5'x8') with very little pressure. We climbed around it but if he had knocked it from its perch I most likely would not have avoided it.
Comments: I think what Mr. Shultz was trying to point out was that the spotters were risking injury. Experience has taught me that no spot can be and often is safer.
Fairly tall (12-18 feet), vertical (give or take a little), and a level landing can be best spotted away from the pad only helping a falling climber if he/she is flying off the pad into other obstacles (trees and rocks etc.). Allow the pad to do its job.
Of course every climb is different and a more direct spot might be beneficial (climbe... more >>
Comments: I think the problem is way better from the sit. A shallow side pull around the right with a crimpy undercling on the left(or free hand it if your strong enough). A few intermediaries before the horizontal can help out or be skipped with strength or dynamics. Fun topout. Probably V2/3.
Comments: The problem to the right of Vice Grip is 3star problem. A V2/3 if I remember right possibly called "Lonely Planet". I only sent it because Mike G and Marc T gave me all the beta. Really fun and each move within the grade.
Comments: Thanks to Shylo the Mystic area abounds in some of the sickest bouldering in southern New England. I occasionally drift over the border because its close so if your ever in the area message me and I might be able to join in for a spot and an extra pad.
Comments: At least 3 more problems on this one which are currently not listed. The face below "Against the Grain" has a horizontal - diagonal crack (difficult/painful but a great problem), The back right arete, and a short slopey mantel problem next to "Pure Grain" that Marc Troob put up.