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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1472 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 47 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 1358 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gi... (V2)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: I don't have a clue about the bouldering V-grades, but the Gill Crack got quite a bit harder after a chockstone a move or two up came out. Also, take the question mark off Gill's name; he definitely made the first ascent.

For those interested in a lead, the Gill Crack can be used as a direct (and logical) start to Katzenjammer, which means that if it is a "variation" of any climb, the climb should be Katzenjammer, not Brat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Ro... (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Gill only used the crimpers and the bucket, nothing on the nose or around the corner (I was there). Check out the picture posted in the comments on Larsen's problem.

Gill did have a wonderful eye for boulder problems, but his Gunks visit was only for two or three days. Who knows what other classics he might have done if he had more time?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Photo
By: rgold When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic perspective on the DOWT wall!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Photo
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: I don't think that Symmetry Spire, which is bounded to the North by Hanging Canyon and to the South by the Symmetry Couloir, is considered to be a feature of Cascade Canyon. The Symmetry Couloir does run into Cascade Canyon, and so the South side routes are approached from Cascade Canyon, but I don't think Symmetry Spire itself is part of the Cascade Canyon wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon
By: rgold When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: The turn-off and the dirt road in can be seen quite clearly in Google Earth, which is even capable of rendering a few cliff details (worth a look if you will be descending Black Velvet Peak and also Windy Peak, for example).

The turn-off is at (36 deg 00 min 35.5 sec) North, (115 deg 25 min 55.55 sec) West.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: rgold When: Sep 25, 2008

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Comments: This sounds like the Barber Route, not the Cleveland Route. Neither way originally had any bolts, and there were a number of ascents of the Barber Route in its original boltless condition. John Bragg and I made one such ascent in the early seventies, I think. The Cleveland Route diagonaled right across the face after the initial moves and has, as far as I know, never been repeated on the lead.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Sep 6, 2008

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Comments: Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 2, 2008

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Comments: Hey guys, since history has come up here, some of you might find my account (link) of the "first" ascent of the Needle's Eye in 1964 and the ensuing discussion on SuperTopo to be interesting.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : ... : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 6, 2008

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Comments: It might be worth noting that the climber in the picture has traversed past the start of the the third-pitch chimney, and is at or near the top pitch of the West Buttress route.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Nick of Time (5.10)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2008

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Comments: The first ascent was by Bob Kamps and Richard Goldstone, August 7, 1968.

We also climbed the chimney just left of the NOT. I recall perhaps a bit of 5.9. Not even remotely as good a route though.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: What do you bring in case you epic on route?Climbing Gear Discussionrgold10 hours ago
re: What do you bring in case you epic on route?Climbing Gear Discussionrgold11 hours ago
re: What do you bring in case you epic on route?Climbing Gear Discussionrgold11 hours ago
re: What do you bring in case you epic on route?Climbing Gear Discussionrgold12 hours ago
re: Adirondack Off-WidthsEastern Statesrgold12 hours ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold13 hours ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold2 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold2 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold3 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold3 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold4 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold4 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad Climbingrgold4 days ago
re: Roping up on TeewinotWyoming, Montana, Dakotasrgold4 days ago
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