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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 1007 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 21 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 925 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b R)
By: rgold When: Feb 11, 2012

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Comments: Congratulations to Pete and Cindy for a ground-up ascent in (updated) classic Needle's style!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Uberfall Descent (Easy 5th)
By: rgold When: Jan 18, 2012

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Comments: Hmmm. First of all, this is not "easy fifth" class climbing. It is fourth class at most.

Second of all, it is worth mentioning that this is not the way down that gave the Uberfall its name, and that if one does go the other way, which was as far as I know the "regular" way for most climbers BITD when everyone walked back from every climb, there is still a choice of whether or not to perform the actual "uberfall," most climbers choosing not to replicate the original path down.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : Kamps Crack (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: We did it in 1967, so yes---no cams---or nuts for that matter, and no tape. I went up, placed a piton just before what I remember as the crux move to get into the crack proper, fussed around a bit and climbed back down. It was a little rotten up there and I broke some holds. Kamps then went up and did it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: rgold When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: Another Gunks sandbag in my opinion. The bottom 20' is probably 5.9. There is a perfectly good belay ledge part way up; back in the day, everyone stopped and belayed there. If there is concern about the second having trouble, then the belay should be at that ledge, since there will be a lot less rope stretch and communication will be possible. It is very hard to communicate from the top.

I've cut the tat off that chockstone a few times and will continue to do so if I happen to be th... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : End Pin : End Pin (5.10d PG13)
By: rgold When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: When Williams and I did the FFA in 1975, there was no bolt (and no other pro) after the crux.


Location: NY : New York City : Photo
By: rgold When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: This wall was part of my standard workout circuit in Riverside park in the seventies. I guess such things have been replaced by climbing gyms, although the amount of traversing you can do here without colliding with groups climbing up various routes still makes it of some possible utility.

Another wall at the 79th Street Boat Basin, being a bit less than vertical, was perfect for ARC'ing (not that we knew of either the concept or the term in the seventies). But now its proximity to the Boat B... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Uberfall problems : The Goldstone Bulge (V0)
By: rgold When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: The grade is somewhere in the V3-V5 range I'd guess. Probably very height dependent.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7)
By: rgold When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: I can add a few remarks to the information Tom Anderson-Brown quotes me as saying above.

The Michael in Michael's Project is Michael Fain, who made the first top-rope ascent in the late fifties. The first top-rope ascent of Peter's Project was also in the late fifties by Peter Gardiner.

Both those routes were lead for sure by Steve Derenzo and I in the very early sixties before Errol Morris appeared at Devil's Lake; he was certainly not the first to lead Peter's Project, and for t... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak : On Little Cat Feet (5.9)
By: rgold When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: Looks like the Robbins route to me. I did it with Bob Kamps and Mark Powell, probably in 1965. The different starts are inconsequential either way and only constitute a few feet of the route. It is possible that where we stepped right at the top, the feline route bulldozes more directly up with the aid of bolted protection. This would make it at best a three-bolt variation with a 5.9 move or two, almost the same as the 1964 route but with perhaps a short section at the top, maybe four feet left... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak : Regular Route (5.8)
By: rgold When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: This route was definitely done November 4, 1971 by Paul Piana, but probably was climbed considerably earlier than that by Bob Kamps and Mark Powell.

I'm not sure what makes this the "Regular Route;" the first route on the spire was climbed by Royal and Liz Robbins in 1964 and seems to coincide with "Little Cat Feet," except of course Royal climbed it without any bolts.

The summit was obtained by tyrolean traverse in 1954 by Ray Sandberg and Walt Bailey. The name was, of course, me... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : ... : Photo
By: rgold When: Oct 20, 2010

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Comments: I think the regular route goes up the left-hand of those two chimneys.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: rgold When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Left of the bolt is where the original route went. I've climbed that a few different ways. I think they are all 5.9, and no one would even think twice about calling them 5.9 if the bolt was ten feet below the move rather than in top-rope position. But the difficulty really does boil down to a single move.

This is one of many examples of the persistence of historical grading at the Gunks---the Arrow started out at 5.8 and that's where it stayed. Art Gran, in the first Gunks guide, seemed to ... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: rgold When: May 12, 2010

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Comments: Oops, my bad...I was indeed thinking the description was of Super Pin.

A historical note: Pete climbed pretty far up a tree near the face to rig some protection for climbing up to and placing the first bolt.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Three Fools (V3)
By: rgold When: Feb 10, 2010

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Comments: Chances are I made the first ascent of this, since I did it in the late sixties or early seventies and I'm guessing that was before the three fools showed up (or were born, maybe).


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Three Fools (V3) : Photo (Copy)
By: rgold When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: I did the "Three Fools" route in the early 1970's. We didn't name boulder problems at the time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: A cool shot to be sure! The climber is, at the moment, still making the moves on the regular CCK; the direct part of this section runs through the overhangs above he has yet to reach.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Arm Eater Crack (V1)
By: rgold When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: It is certainly true that the Arm Eater crack is somewhat less than a bouldering classic. Those not wishing to offer up their arms to the gnashing maw of the armeater crack will simply layback the whole thing and arrive over the lip flapper-free. As for the descent, traverse left and batman down the tree.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Uberfall problems : The Goldstone Bulge (V0) : Photo (Copy)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: The line for the "Goldstone Bulge" starts more or less where the number 6 is and goes straight up. There's a long reach to a two-finger triangular pocket. A largish hold to the left which is a foothold on the start of Squiggles is not part of the route. An uneducated guess would be V4, harder if you are less than 5'9" but maybe also easier if you are taller.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Andrew Area : Andrew Boulder Problem (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: BITD we also used to do this as a pure campus problem (no heel hooks) all the way to the finishing jug.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Photo
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Two comments:

1. Of historical interest: Tweedle Dee used to be harder. The large fractured finishing bucket was created by someone practicing aid climbing who pried off a thin flake that was useless as a hand hold. Boulderers interested in experiencing the original route should simply eliminate that hold and work with the crack and rib. Also, the original route (yellow), done as a lead not a boulder problem, continues up the face rather than traversing off left into the chimney.

2. The T... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gi... (V2)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: I don't have a clue about the bouldering V-grades, but the Gill Crack got quite a bit harder after a chockstone a move or two up came out. Also, take the question mark off Gill's name; he definitely made the first ascent.

For those interested in a lead, the Gill Crack can be used as a direct (and logical) start to Katzenjammer, which means that if it is a "variation" of any climb, the climb should be Katzenjammer, not Brat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Ro... (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Gill only used the crimpers and the bucket, nothing on the nose or around the corner (I was there). Check out the picture posted in the comments on Larsen's problem.

Gill did have a wonderful eye for boulder problems, but his Gunks visit was only for two or three days. Who knows what other classics he might have done if he had more time?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Photo
By: rgold When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic perspective on the DOWT wall!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Photo
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: I don't think that Symmetry Spire, which is bounded to the North by Hanging Canyon and to the South by the Symmetry Couloir, is considered to be a feature of Cascade Canyon. The Symmetry Couloir does run into Cascade Canyon, and so the South side routes are approached from Cascade Canyon, but I don't think Symmetry Spire itself is part of the Cascade Canyon wall.


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