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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 964 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 58 | Posts 888 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Uberfall problems : The Goldstone Bulge (V0)
By: rgold When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: The grade is somewhere in the V3-V5 range I'd guess. Probably very height dependent.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7)
By: rgold When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: I can add a few remarks to the information Tom Anderson-Brown quotes me as saying above.

The Michael in Michael's Project is Michael Fain, who made the first top-rope ascent in the late fifties. The first top-rope ascent of Peter's Project was also in the late fifties by Peter Gardiner.

Both those routes were lead for sure by Steve Derenzo and I in the very early sixties before Errol Morris appeared at Devil's Lake; he was certainly not the first to lead Peter's Project, and for t... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak : On Little Cat Feet (5.9)
By: rgold When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: Looks like the Robbins route to me. I did it with Bob Kamps and Mark Powell, probably in 1965. The different starts are inconsequential either way and only constitute a few feet of the route. It is possible that where we stepped right at the top, the feline route bulldozes more directly up with the aid of bolted protection. This would make it at best a three-bolt variation with a 5.9 move or two, almost the same as the 1964 route but with perhaps a short section at the top, maybe four feet left... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak : Regular Route (5.8)
By: rgold When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: This route was definitely done November 4, 1971 by Paul Piana, but probably was climbed considerably earlier than that by Bob Kamps and Mark Powell.

I'm not sure what makes this the "Regular Route;" the first route on the spire was climbed by Royal and Liz Robbins in 1964 and seems to coincide with "Little Cat Feet," except of course Royal climbed it without any bolts.

The summit was obtained by tyrolean traverse in 1954 by Ray Sandberg and Walt Bailey. The name was, of course, me... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : ... : Photo
By: rgold When: Oct 20, 2010

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Comments: I think the regular route goes up the left-hand of those two chimneys.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: rgold When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Left of the bolt is where the original route went. I've climbed that a few different ways. I think they are all 5.9, and no one would even think twice about calling them 5.9 if the bolt was ten feet below the move rather than in top-rope position. But the difficulty really does boil down to a single move.

This is one of many examples of the persistence of historical grading at the Gunks---the Arrow started out at 5.8 and that's where it stayed. Art Gran, in the first Gunks guide, seemed to ... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: rgold When: May 12, 2010

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Comments: Oops, my bad...I was indeed thinking the description was of Super Pin.

A historical note: Pete climbed pretty far up a tree near the face to rig some protection for climbing up to and placing the first bolt.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Three Fools (V3)
By: rgold When: Feb 10, 2010

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Comments: Chances are I made the first ascent of this, since I did it in the late sixties or early seventies and I'm guessing that was before the three fools showed up (or were born, maybe).


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Three Fools (V3) : Photo (Copy)
By: rgold When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: I did the "Three Fools" route in the early 1970's. We didn't name boulder problems at the time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: A cool shot to be sure! The climber is, at the moment, still making the moves on the regular CCK; the direct part of this section runs through the overhangs above he has yet to reach.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Arm Eater Crack (V1)
By: rgold When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: It is certainly true that the Arm Eater crack is somewhat less than a bouldering classic. Those not wishing to offer up their arms to the gnashing maw of the armeater crack will simply layback the whole thing and arrive over the lip flapper-free. As for the descent, traverse left and batman down the tree.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Uberfall problems : The Goldstone Bulge (V0) : Photo (Copy)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: The line for the "Goldstone Bulge" starts more or less where the number 6 is and goes straight up. There's a long reach to a two-finger triangular pocket. A largish hold to the left which is a foothold on the start of Squiggles is not part of the route. An uneducated guess would be V4, harder if you are less than 5'9" but maybe also easier if you are taller.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Andrew Area : Andrew Boulder Problem (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: BITD we also used to do this as a pure campus problem (no heel hooks) all the way to the finishing jug.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Photo
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Two comments:

1. Of historical interest: Tweedle Dee used to be harder. The large fractured finishing bucket was created by someone practicing aid climbing who pried off a thin flake that was useless as a hand hold. Boulderers interested in experiencing the original route should simply eliminate that hold and work with the crack and rib. Also, the original route (yellow), done as a lead not a boulder problem, continues up the face rather than traversing off left into the chimney.

2. The T... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gi... (V2)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: I don't have a clue about the bouldering V-grades, but the Gill Crack got quite a bit harder after a chockstone a move or two up came out. Also, take the question mark off Gill's name; he definitely made the first ascent.

For those interested in a lead, the Gill Crack can be used as a direct (and logical) start to Katzenjammer, which means that if it is a "variation" of any climb, the climb should be Katzenjammer, not Brat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Ro... (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Gill only used the crimpers and the bucket, nothing on the nose or around the corner (I was there). Check out the picture posted in the comments on Larsen's problem.

Gill did have a wonderful eye for boulder problems, but his Gunks visit was only for two or three days. Who knows what other classics he might have done if he had more time?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Photo
By: rgold When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic perspective on the DOWT wall!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Photo
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: I don't think that Symmetry Spire, which is bounded to the North by Hanging Canyon and to the South by the Symmetry Couloir, is considered to be a feature of Cascade Canyon. The Symmetry Couloir does run into Cascade Canyon, and so the South side routes are approached from Cascade Canyon, but I don't think Symmetry Spire itself is part of the Cascade Canyon wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon
By: rgold When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: The turn-off and the dirt road in can be seen quite clearly in Google Earth, which is even capable of rendering a few cliff details (worth a look if you will be descending Black Velvet Peak and also Windy Peak, for example).

The turn-off is at (36 deg 00 min 35.5 sec) North, (115 deg 25 min 55.55 sec) West.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: rgold When: Sep 25, 2008

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Comments: This sounds like the Barber Route, not the Cleveland Route. Neither way originally had any bolts, and there were a number of ascents of the Barber Route in its original boltless condition. John Bragg and I made one such ascent in the early seventies, I think. The Cleveland Route diagonaled right across the face after the initial moves and has, as far as I know, never been repeated on the lead.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Sep 6, 2008

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Comments: Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 2, 2008

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Comments: Hey guys, since history has come up here, some of you might find my account (link) of the "first" ascent of the Needle's Eye in 1964 and the ensuing discussion on SuperTopo to be interesting.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : ... : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 6, 2008

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Comments: It might be worth noting that the climber in the picture has traversed past the start of the the third-pitch chimney, and is at or near the top pitch of the West Buttress route.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Nick of Time (5.10)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2008

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Comments: The first ascent was by Bob Kamps and Richard Goldstone, August 7, 1968.

We also climbed the chimney just left of the NOT. I recall perhaps a bit of 5.9. Not even remotely as good a route though.


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