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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 1346 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 1238 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rope grooving

Rope grooving

General Climbing : Stop leaving tat on trees!!... : Post

Oct 22, 2014

Bark abrasion from rap slings

Bark abrasion from rap slings

General Climbing : Stop leaving tat on trees!!... : Post

Oct 22, 2014

Richard Goldstone on the crux crack, second ascent...

Richard Goldstone on the crux crack, second ascent of the West Buttress of Outer Outlet, 1965 (I think)

SD : Custer State Park : ... : West Buttress (5.8)

Sep 27, 2014

UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, theuia...

UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_f...

Climbing Gear Discussion : . : Post

Jan 2, 2014

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needles Outlets map.

Needles Outlets map.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needle's Eye map detail.

Needle's Eye map detail.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left. The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left. The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the origi

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Eastern States : Entrance fee for the gunks? : Post

Oct 29, 2011

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Community Forum : just a math question. : Post

Aug 26, 2011

Pulley Effect

Pulley Effect

Trad Climbing : ACR Anchor Method? : Post

Dec 8, 2010

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left pictu...

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

NY : The Gunks : ... : Larsen's Problem (V1)

Feb 9, 2010

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up. Photo by Myriam Bouchard

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Aug 19, 2009

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Feb 26, 2008

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the eve...

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye

Feb 16, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: May 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Doug, I have no doubt Pete led it, but I think I led it before he even arrived at Devil's Lake, in any case before he got busy.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rgold When: May 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Way BITD, a "suff" was a big-wall aid climb (Yes, "suff" for "suffering"). Simple Suff was originally aided, but it falls rather short of being a big wall and the aid was easy, hence the "simple." One of the first ascenders, Ants Leemets, made the fifth ascent of the Nose with Dick Williams and Dave Dornan in 1966, four years after Simple Suff.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I guess it is possible that I did the first lead; I lead it in the early sixties. There were other climbers around who could easily have done it before me; John Gill, Dave Slinger, and Roger Wiegand are three that I know of. And soon after Pete Cleveland and Jim and Dave Erickson showed up, at which point it was a walk in the park.

The first time I tried it---I think that was '62---my foot skidded off something and I popped off, pulling a piton (this was before nuts) before... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : West Buttress (5.8)
By: rgold When: Nov 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Picture from the second ascent posted.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968. (I "discovered" the line and led pitches 1 and 2 so don't deserve to be left entirely off the FA credits!) thanks - added to route info - JSH

I don't know if new micro gear has improved the situation significantly, but if not the first pitch is more like R than PG-13, and as usual for Gunks 9+'s, it might be 10a. Pitch 2 had a really old pin down and left that might have indicated an aid ascent earlier.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Six : Empire State Building (5.10)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent of the Wavy Crack route August 7, 1964 Mark and Beverly Powell and Bob Kamps. Not "circa 1968" as currently noted in the description.

In August 1967 I did an independent route on the face to the right of the Wavy Crack. My belayer didn't follow; I don't remember why now, but I think the sun was setting. Back then the Wavy Crack was 5.9 and my route seemed a bit easier, so we called it 5.8. Now that the Wavy Crack is 5.10, it is possible that my route might seem undergr... more >>


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