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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 1190 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 1090 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Needles Outlets map.

Needles Outlets map.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needle's Eye map detail.

Needle's Eye map detail.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left. The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left. The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the origi

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Eastern States : Entrance fee for the gunks? : Post

Oct 29, 2011

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Community Forum : just a math question. : Post

Aug 26, 2011

Pulley Effect

Pulley Effect

Trad Climbing : ACR Anchor Method? : Post

Dec 8, 2010

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left pictu...

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

NY : The Gunks : ... : Larsen's Problem (V1)

Feb 9, 2010

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up. Photo by Myriam Bouchard

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Aug 19, 2009

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Feb 26, 2008

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the eve...

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye

Feb 16, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: I guess it is possible that I did the first lead; I lead it in the early sixties. There were other climbers around who could easily have done it before me; John Gill, Dave Slinger, and Roger Wiegand are three that I know of. And soon after Pete Cleveland and Jim and Dave Erickson showed up, at which point it was a walk in the park.

The first time I tried it---I think that was '62---my foot skidded off something and I popped off, pulling a piton (this was before nuts) before... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : West Buttress (5.8)
By: rgold When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Picture from the second ascent posted.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: First ascent Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968. (I "discovered" the line and led pitches 1 and 2 so don't deserve to be left entirely off the FA credits!) thanks - added to route info - JSH

I don't know if new micro gear has improved the situation significantly, but if not the first pitch is more like R than PG-13, and as usual for Gunks 9+'s, it might be 10a. Pitch 2 had a really old pin down and left that might have indicated an aid ascent earlier.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Six : Empire State Building (5.10)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: First ascent of the Wavy Crack route August 7, 1964 Mark and Beverly Powell and Bob Kamps.

In August 1967 I did an independent route on the face to the right of the Wavy Crack. My belayer didn't follow; I don't remember why now, but I think the sun was setting. Back then the Wavy Crack was 5.9 and my route seemed a bit easier, so we called it 5.8. Now that the Wavy Crack is 5.10, it is possible that my route might seem undergraded.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Hmm. Perhaps worth noting that when Ivan and I did the route, nuts were all we had, and nothing as big as those recommended cams. Of course, there was no bolt in the offwidth either.

I protected the exit from what now seems to be called the Houdini Slot by climbing up into it, reaching around to the outside, and placing a nut in the crack in the dihedral. Normally, this would be a totally blind placement but in this case I could observe what I was doing from "inside" the crack because of my ... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : How to Hip Belay
By: rgold When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: Those of us who grew up with hip belays for all belaying of both leader and second found it useful to clip the rope from belayer to climber into a carabiner that nowadays would be on the belay loop of the harness. This is very important if the hip belay is for the leader, but is useful even if the hip belay is for a second. In this case the carabiner adds a bit of friction by putting a bend in the rope path, and it makes it impossible for the rope to slip down the belayer's butt if the belayer... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Photo
By: rgold When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Take a good deep breath and hold it. Most of those trees are gone now, either the direct victims of the Mountain Pine Beetle or the efforts to limit its spread. See this shot, mountainproject.com/v/10719163..., a few further on.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: I thing slinging the point is the way to go---that's what I used to do bitd. But I always anchored the sling to a piece placed further back so the sling couldn't lift off.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Yup, the Trapps aren't in this shot at all. Near Trapps front and center, Bayards to the left and Millbrook just peeking through the trees further left.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Phallus
By: rgold When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: I don't know if Lauria was used as ballast on the Phallus, but that was a technique we used from time to time to get off a pinnacle without leaving anything behind, so it is certainly possible.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: There was a big debate about this, with passion on both sides on Supertopo.

The "stealing" claim is bogus. The idea that Henry "stole" the route from someone who couldn't repeat it is itself a stretch. And you didn't have to overhear anyone's secrets to know about Superpin. I'd spoken to Henry about Pete Cleveland's amazing feat long before Henry arrived in the Needles. Henry didn't steal anything, he thought he was repeating Cleveland's route and realized as he got higher that he wasn't on i... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Well, the block fell out---fortunately not while someone was yarding on it as in this picture. The fact that it just went one day confirms that the warnings about not pulling on it were justified. Thank god no one got hurt.

Meanwhile, this photo is going to go into the Annals of How Not to Climb on Real Rock.


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