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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 948 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvments | Comments 58 | Posts 872 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Larsen's Problem

V1 5 (2)

Boulder

NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area

Feb 9, 2010

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, <a href='http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA_129_Braking_Device_March2013.pdf' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA_129_Braking_Devi>>></a>

UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA_129_Braking_Devi>>>

Climbing Gear Discussion : Alpine up : Post

Jan 2, 2014

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needles Outlets map.

Needles Outlets map.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needle's Eye map detail.

Needle's Eye map detail.

Colorado : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962.  The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left.  The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left. The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962.  The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left.  The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the original lead.

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left. The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the origi

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Eastern States : Entrance fee for the gunks? : Post

Oct 29, 2011

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Community Forum : just a math question. : Post

Aug 26, 2011

Pulley Effect

Pulley Effect

Trad Climbing : ACR Anchor Method? : Post

Dec 8, 2010

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

NY : The Gunks : ... : Larsen's Problem (V1)

Feb 9, 2010

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up. Photo by Myriam Bouchard

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Aug 19, 2009

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Feb 26, 2008

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye

Feb 16, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Six : Empire State Building (5.10)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent of the Wavy Crack route August 7, 1964 Mark and Beverly Powell and Bob Kamps.

In August 1967 I did an independent route on the face to the right of the Wavy Crack. My belayer didn't follow; I don't remember why now, but I think the sun was setting. Back then the Wavy Crack was 5.9 and my route seemed a bit easier, so we called it 5.8. Now that the Wavy Crack is 5.10, it is possible that my route might seem undergraded.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hmm. Perhaps worth noting that when Ivan and I did the route, nuts were all we had, and nothing as big as those recommended cams. Of course, there was no bolt in the offwidth either.

I protected the exit from what now seems to be called the Houdini Slot by climbing up into it, reaching around to the outside, and placing a nut in the crack in the dihedral. Normally, this would be a totally blind placement but in this case I could observe what I was doing from "inside" the crack because of my ... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : How to Hip Belay
By: rgold When: Apr 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Those of us who grew up with hip belays for all belaying of both leader and second found it useful to clip the rope from belayer to climber into a carabiner that nowadays would be on the belay loop of the harness. This is very important if the hip belay is for the leader, but is useful even if the hip belay is for a second. In this case the carabiner adds a bit of friction by putting a bend in the rope path, and it makes it impossible for the rope to slip down the belayer's butt if the belayer... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Photo
By: rgold When: Dec 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Take a good deep breath and hold it. Most of those trees are gone now, either the direct victims of the Mountain Pine Beetle or the efforts to limit its spread. See this shot, www.mountainproject.com/v/107191638, a few further on.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I thing slinging the point is the way to go---that's what I used to do bitd. But I always anchored the sling to a piece placed further back so the sling couldn't lift off.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Oct 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, the Trapps aren't in this shot at all. Near Trapps front and center, Bayards to the left and Millbrook just peeking through the trees further left.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Phallus
By: rgold When: Sep 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know if Lauria was used as ballast on the Phallus, but that was a technique we used from time to time to get off a pinnacle without leaving anything behind, so it is certainly possible.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There was a big debate about this, with passion on both sides on Supertopo.

The "stealing" claim is bogus. The idea that Henry "stole" the route from someone who couldn't repeat it is itself a stretch. And you didn't have to overhear anyone's secrets to know about Superpin. I'd spoken to Henry about Pete Cleveland's amazing feat long before Henry arrived in the Needles. Henry didn't steal anything, he thought he was repeating Cleveland's route and realized as he got higher that he wasn't on i... more >>


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