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The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact rgold


Point Rank: # 3,049
Total Points: 145
Last Year: 59
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Contributions


All (779) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (16) | Comments (55) | Posts (706) | Stars (1) | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Larsen's Problem

V1 5 (2)

Boulder

NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area

Feb 9, 2010

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, <a href='http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA_129_Braking_Device_March2013.pdf' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA_129_Braking_Devi>>></a>

UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA_129_Braking_Devi>>>

Climbing Gear Discussion : Alpine up : Post

Jan 2, 2014

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needles Outlets map.

Needles Outlets map.

Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Needle's Eye map detail.

Needle's Eye map detail.

Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Heading to Needles/Rushmore... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962.  The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left.  The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left. The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962.  The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left.  The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the original lead.

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left. The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the origi

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Eastern States : Entrance fee for the gunks? : Post

Oct 29, 2011

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Community Forum : just a math question. : Post

Aug 26, 2011

Pulley Effect

Pulley Effect

Trad Climbing : ACR Anchor Method? : Post

Dec 8, 2010

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

NY : The Gunks : ... : Larsen's Problem (V1)

Feb 9, 2010

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up. Photo by Myriam Bouchard

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Aug 19, 2009

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

rgold : Climbing Pictures

Feb 26, 2008

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye

Feb 16, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Photo
By: rgold When: Dec 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Take a good deep breath and hold it. Most of those trees are gone now, either the direct victims of the Mountain Pine Beetle or the efforts to limit its spread. See this shot, www.mountainproject.com/v/107191638, a few further on.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: I thing slinging the point is the way to go---that's what I used to do bitd. But I always anchored the sling to a piece placed further back so the sling couldn't lift off.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Oct 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, the Trapps aren't in this shot at all. Near Trapps front and center, Bayards to the left and Millbrook just peeking through the trees further left.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Phallus
By: rgold When: Sep 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know if Lauria was used as ballast on the Phallus, but that was a technique we used from time to time to get off a pinnacle without leaving anything behind, so it is certainly possible.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There was a big debate about this, with passion on both sides on Supertopo.

The "stealing" claim is bogus. The idea that Henry "stole" the route from someone who couldn't repeat it is itself a stretch. And you didn't have to overhear anyone's secrets to know about Superpin. I'd spoken to Henry about Pete Cleveland's amazing feat long before Henry arrived in the Needles. Henry didn't steal anything, he thought he was repeating Cleveland's route and realized as he got higher that he wasn't on i... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Well, the block fell out---fortunately not while someone was yarding on it as in this picture. The fact that it just went one day confirms that the warnings about not pulling on it were justified. Thank god no one got hurt.

Meanwhile, this photo is going to go into the Annals of How Not to Climb on Real Rock.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The surveying and original maps (this is just one) were done by Herb Conn, who was a civil engineer before moving to the Needles to climb. When Bob Kamps wrote his guide to the Needles, Herb gave him permission to use the map, which at that point only existed as a small and mediocre mimeograph image.

I took that image and with a draftsman's pantograph (this was before there were computer tools for such things), set to work on enlarging and labeling the map for Bob's guidebook. As the enormity... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jun 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, the Jackie line is wrong almost everywhere.


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