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Member Since: Sep 15, 2009
Last Visit: Nov 29, 2011
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 32 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Many Times (a.k.a. Backside... (5.10+)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: If this route is from the SW corner of Sugarloaf, fairly close to the "newer" rappel route, then I think we did this around 1972 time-frame. It was the old gang: Me (Reed Cundiff), Karl Kiser, Cliff Naveaux, Edmund Ward and Paul Seibert. There may have been a sixth. It was a beautiful crack and stem climb which was done with a lot of aid. I got to the entire one or two leads and put in a lot of Chounard Lost Arrows since this was years before nuts, much less cams became common or were even used... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 23, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the easiest approaches and descents in the Organs. We just walked off the backside and down Big Windy Canyon in the 50s through 70s. I noted a really big black rattlesnake on a boulder right along the descent around 1969 (it was cold and he wasn't doing much) and remarked to Bill Hackett that he shouldn't put his hand on the boulder. I received an end of the day blistering for BS'ing him and then he saw the snake. Of course we sometimes stumbled across the desert in the dark as we... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : The Citadel : Clem's Folly (5.7)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Saw Clem Ota on 25 November when he came by for Thanksgiving dinner at son Charlie's place. Looks older than 1972.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Extraction (5.10)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: My favorite first cousin Paul Seibert is either incorrect or I really hit myself hard on the head. It could be either or both.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: I know that iron is now considered passe; however, there are knife-blade placements that are excellent. They sure worked great 46 years ago.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Dragtooth : North Buttress (aka the Dra... (5.10) : Photo
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: This is the only section that had aid on first ascent. Mountain boots jammed well


Location: CA : High Sierra : Dragtooth : North Buttress (aka the Dra... (5.10) : Photo
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: This part went free on first ascent


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : The Citadel : Clem's Folly (5.7)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: This climb was put up by Dick Ingram and Clem Ota. It is so named because Clem took a bad fall on it. Both of them showed up at the Southwestern Mountaineer part at the Pizza Boulders that afternoon. Clem looked much the worse for wear


Location: CA : High Sierra : Dragtooth : North Buttress (aka the Dra... (5.10)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Nov 25, 2009

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Comments: This was supposed to be a Fred Beckey, Jack Miller and myself climb but Fred came down with a bad cold and let Jack and I do it. Fred met us at the top. The only aid was on the 5.10 off-width as there was no gear at the time to protect it. We were able to aid on small cracks on either side of the dihedral. There is a great hand traverse to the left at the end of final real pitch where you could see the glacier way down between your legs. The route down was down an easy snow slope

I hope the Geo... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.6)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Oct 25, 2009

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Comments: This was pretty much the standard rock climb for the New Mexico Mountain Club in the 1950's. The route then avoided the first two or three pitches on the ridge by going to the left and then up a grubby/bushy chimney.I remember Charles "Bill" Williams leading a 8 or 9 man/woman rope up this climb around 1956. The club was hurting for leaders back then. It sure took all day.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Oct 2, 2009

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Comments: Chris

As I wrote earlier, we went way to the right to avoid what may have been 5.9 (we just called it "harder than we chose to do again") and then traversed left around a bulge. I put in a self-drilling threaded expansion bolt(it expanded as you screwed in the bolt) and that is what the bolt missing a hanger looks like. I don't think we did that summit pitch off Luncheon Ledge until the third try since it was getting dark the first and second attempts. We always hiked up the La Luz Trail. Thank... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Dave and I chose this route since it has one of the most distinct silhouettes from Albuquerque in the afternoon sun. We had examined what is now know as Torreon but figured it was beyond our skill level and gear.

The ring piton on the last pitch is probably ours from the first ascent to the top. We went straight up from the right side of Luncheon Ledge so we didn't do the Black Death variation. The route we did on the SE face is way to the left of the "beta" photograph since at least two of our... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : ... : Photo
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: The beta shown for the SE face is way, way off. Dave and I started in the left side of the gulley and then stuck pretty much just to the right of the arete. Three of the pitches wound up with belay positions on the arete and we may have gone onto the left side of the arete for part of several pitches. Also, the standard rope length then was 120'(37 metres) of white cable laid nylon. The 50 metre rope didn't seem to show up until the middle 1960s. One of the pitches on the original climb was hard... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Extraction (5.10)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: I believe the only aid on the climb were the bongs I put in on the final left facing dihedral. I wasn't up to doing a left facing lie-back/undercling/jam putting in pins for protection (am very right handed). The route down then was just to walk down. There was no rappel route down the face.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Bill Hacket and I decided to try the first ascent of the Tooth and ran into Lee Davis and another climber already on it. So we backed off, cranky and grumbly. At that time there were huge Ponderosa Pines (2' diameter) at the base of the climb; unfortunately, these were killed off by a brush/forest fire in the 1970's that burned off much of the southern part of the Organs. It took Lee a number of tries to work through the route, along with a number of partners.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : ... : Photo
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: I think the only aid of the first ascent was on the final left facing dihedral, no guts on my part using bongs (cams were not around yet or we were to cheap to buy them).


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : The West Ridge (5.7)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: This was one of the favorite climbs of the old Southwestern Mountaineers of NMSU. We once had 7 or 8 roped teams do the route just after a snow storm in November 1970. We approached it from the west side in summer (to be in the early morning shade) and from Aguirre Springs in winter (to be in the sun)


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : ORP : West Face (5.8+)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: I think Mark Losleben and Cliff Naveaux did the first ascent of this route. There is (or was) a Golden Eagle nest directly on the route. Mark led onto this and had comments about the bones left by the Eagle. He commented to Cliff that maybe there were some lost climbers' remains laid about.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Dave Hammack and I did the face around 1960-61. The rock was excellent and the climbing was mid 5, maybe 5.6 or 5.7. We were not very imaginative in naming pinnacles. We certainly were not of the ability to do Karl Kiser's route


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Standard S Route (5.6)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Dave Hammack and I did either this route or the Hill route about 1959 or 1960. We have been credited with doing the first route on the Shield but I believe that Dick Ingram of NMSU (physics professor and writer of the original Organ Mountain Guide) did it before us. We heard that this party had gotten benighted so we got started very early and were on the rock around 7:30 am. We pushed extremely fast since we didn't want to spend the night and knew there had to be some hard work higher up. We go... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Did this over Christmas vacation in 1970 or thereabouts with Leland Davis and Clay Goldberg. Decided that it really was cold when we realized that snot froze immediately on our gloves. Exciting part was that there was a herd of mountain sheep (now extinct I believe in the Sandias) ahead of us and the alpha ram was not happy. We were roped up and I was going over the only tricky part (it was full of snow) and the ram made a mock charge (and I dropped about 10 feet - I wasn't drawing to his bluff ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Aviary Ort Overhangs (5.9)
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 16, 2009

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Comments: The only other possibility to Aviary Ort as the climb we did in 1961 is the dihedral about 75' to the left (E) and the top section of that overhangs far to much for us to have done with the skills and gear we had back then. I think our main protection was soft iron horizontal pins in cracks to the left and right of the dihedral and Army and Dave Hammack ring angles in the dihedral. Our total rack was probably half a dozen angles and 10 or so Cassin, Holubar, and Stubai soft iron horizontals. Dav... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 16, 2009

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Comments: One of the better routes was named "Wally's Folly" after Wally Houseman who was happily belaying the leader on one of the ledges around 1970 when he realized there was a loud buzzing between his feet. He got struck on his boot heel by a a moderately large rattler. Fortunately, he was wearing heavy mountain boots which probably gave the snake a headache and bent fangs. He did a bit of dancing on the ledge but maintained his belay.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Bear Boulders
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 16, 2009

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Comments: Bear Boulder was named after my cousin Paul Seibert's nickname "Pooh Bear" (sorry about this sordid detail primo). Bear Boulder and the Pizza Boulders were closed due to very nice petroglyphs on the rocks and in the general area. Climbers were quite respectful of them but others painted over them, chipped them off or used them for target practice. Bear Boulder also has a section of "Mammoth Rubbing" which is apparently quite rare


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : East Slabs
By: Reed Cundiff When: Sep 16, 2009

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Comments: Karl is correct about bolts. The rope length for the original ascent (Great Bowl through Ingram's Diherdral) was 120'(37 metres). The first ascent was by Dick Ingram and Lee Davis on one rope and Bill Hackett and Reed Cundiff on the other. Ingram had the bolt kit and was switching leads with Davis. We got behind in Ingram's Dihedral and went to the right instead of the left as they did. I wound up on a blank section (noted as 5.7 in write-up) at end of rope and had to belay off a Gerry steel han... more >>


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