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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,312
Last Year: 452
Last 30 Days: 28
278 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5705 | Routes 274 | Areas 80 | Photos 1374 | Page Improvments | Comments 1502 | Posts 881 | Stars 1039 | Ratings 555
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Y Crack (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Just TR this thing and enjoy a great lieback. You need some long webbing or cord to set it up. I attempted to solo up to the #5 C4 placement but wigged out on some crumbly rock and decided to downclimb. To place a #6 before the crux I think it would have to get pretty deep meaning a very awkward move to get into it.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Corona Club (5.8+)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Start to the left of the bolt line only moving right at the finish.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Short But Sweet (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: More like a V1 highball, it took a few tries to figure out the start, then cruiser jams.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Send it (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: A boulder problem to a jug and great gear.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Sandstone Area : Fruity Pebbles (V1+)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: Same approach as the other ones?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Captain Kronos (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: I started from the ground, seemed logical. Only runout for a little bit in easier terrain. If not for rock quality this would get a solid three stars. Yes, not 5.7.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: This climb reminded me of the Van Halen Greatest Hits album "The Best of Both Worlds", a little DLR, and little Hagar, maybe some Gary Cherone there too. A right hand palming move proved key to reaching the first bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Pretty easy for 5.8, yea cut the tat. I traversed (exposed) around to the anchors for Eureka for the rap.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I've been on way worse approaches, for JT standards it is a bit much I guess, but still worth it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : La Reina (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : California Crack (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Red C3 perfect for the crux.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Zig Zag (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: An underrated climb, take care not to go off route, and the "exit" from the thin seam isn't obvious but surprisingly exciting. Did it in two pitches with a 70m.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Fuzzy climbing?!?!!? How did you lure him in?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : Rupley Towers
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: A little confusing to find these via directions from the current guidebook because of the 2010? construction. The trail is about 500ft from the main parking lot and starts down a short paved drainage. Follow the trail a bit right then cut left behind Tower "A" and back around to the front.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Agatha Christie (Direct) (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: There are much better climbs around Windy Point than this one, turn around and do "Old Man" 5.9 for one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Mean Mistreater (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: To confirm all hangers are still in place except for one missing off the two bolts next to the rap anchors for P1. I.E. rap anchors with chains still in place plus one bolt and one hangerless stud.

Pretty casual until the crux on P2, I thought more like a 10-. The crux can be well protected by a green C3 a bit higher than the bolt but the bolt is bomber too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Great route, lots of different techniques on this one, did it in one pitch to the Mean Mistreater anchors with a 70m.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Don't bother Woodchuck, nice for laps but not too interesting. Go to Wyalusing for some legit ice. However, I used to do a "Round Robin" every year of Stephens, Cox Hollow and Lone Rock for a solid day of ice.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Sacred Datura Direct (5.9 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: Starting on Succubus into this must be the non-direct?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: Hey, did anyone climb anything hard and scary this year? Tell us about it!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Stretcher (5.9+)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Less than a year in ColoRADo and you already want to bolt everything? Figures.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : Shipwreck Boulder
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: There's a sign on the north side of the boulder declaring that side closed but nothing on the Ship Wreak side.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: 5.9 moves and if you get lucky with the gear it protects just fine.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Derek Smalls' Crack (5.10a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Burt, you guys sure are adding to my return to WI tick list. Keep it up!


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