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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,386
Last Year: 465
Last 30 Days: 35
286 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5751 | Routes 279 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1511 | Posts 883 | Stars 1064 | Ratings 557
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : At Your Pleasure (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: One of the only easy climbs around here and good for a warm up. No ants for me either. Also, it starts out of the right side of the chimney not the left as stated in the description.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: The trail is well established at this point and well cairned but your eyes peeled for important intersections.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: This is the Railroad slab?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Chutes and Ladders (5.7+)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Note that Dungeons and Dragons aka Burnt Toast 11b is the bolted line just right of Chutes.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Chug A Lug (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Tricky to step into the crack for the second pitch.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Baby Woolsey (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Does this finish on the nice but short hand crack climbers right of Vanishing Point?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : The Wedge : Naked Edge (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Middle bolt still manky.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Upper Looner Land : Spinal Tap (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I think this is the route closest to the left corner? It has newer Fixe hangers. There's a separate route that has older SMC hangers to the right (left of James Addiction).


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Flashback (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Got on the bolted section while doing Zig-Zag, ultra thin crimps. From the Mechanics Route belay there's an obvious horn on the left that leads to the bolts.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Y Crack (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Just TR this thing and enjoy a great lieback. You need some long webbing or cord to set it up. I attempted to solo up to the #5 C4 placement but wigged out on some crumbly rock and decided to downclimb. To place a #6 before the crux I think it would have to get pretty deep meaning a very awkward move to get into it.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Corona Club (5.8+)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Start to the left of the bolt line only moving right at the finish.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Short But Sweet (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: More like a V1 highball, it took a few tries to figure out the start, then cruiser jams.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Send it (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: A boulder problem to a jug and great gear.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Sandstone Area : Fruity Pebbles (V1+)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: Same approach as the other ones?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Captain Kronos (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: I started from the ground, seemed logical. Only runout for a little bit in easier terrain. If not for rock quality this would get a solid three stars. Yes, not 5.7.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: This climb reminded me of the Van Halen Greatest Hits album "The Best of Both Worlds", a little DLR, and little Hagar, maybe some Gary Cherone there too. A right hand palming move proved key to reaching the first bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Pretty easy for 5.8, yea cut the tat. I traversed (exposed) around to the anchors for Eureka for the rap.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I've been on way worse approaches, for JT standards it is a bit much I guess, but still worth it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : La Reina (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : California Crack (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Red C3 perfect for the crux.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Zig Zag (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: An underrated climb, take care not to go off route, and the "exit" from the thin seam isn't obvious but surprisingly exciting. Did it in two pitches with a 70m.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Fuzzy climbing?!?!!? How did you lure him in?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : Rupley Towers
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: A little confusing to find these via directions from the current guidebook because of the 2010? construction. The trail is about 500ft from the main parking lot and starts down a short paved drainage. Follow the trail a bit right then cut left behind Tower "A" and back around to the front.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Agatha Christie (Direct) (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: There are much better climbs around Windy Point than this one, turn around and do "Old Man" 5.9 for one.


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