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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Tradoholic


Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,133
Last Year: 355
Last 30 Days: 14
264 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All (5608) | Routes (269) | Areas (78) | Photos (1356) | Comments (1483) | Posts (871) | Stars (998) | Ratings (553)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: 5.9 moves and if you get lucky with the gear it protects just fine.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Derek Smalls' Crack (5.10a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Burt, you guys sure are adding to my return to WI tick list. Keep it up!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Bro's Before Holes (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: There's currently a left-behind anchor up there, the tri-cam and purple nut are recent but the rest might be pretty old and is on shallow nuts. The anchor ought to be at the top of the business, under the hourglass choss but that would require large cams or (ahem!) hardware.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: WTF? This climb is pretty much junk. Just about every hold was suspect and it only got worse as you get higher. In addition there was what looked like a mess of glue that was mixed too thin and then ran all over. Not to mention the moves weren't too great either.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: Clipped the pin and prayed I assume? Protected well after that I thought, I was considering replacing the pin.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: A "Left Section" could be added here to separate routes like Mongolia Thunder Pussy and Green Savior as the aren't really approached from the middle. Getting to these routes was probably easiest by going to the swamp slabs and then traversing on the pine tree ledge.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Green Savior (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: Belaying just post the "window" a 70m took this all the way to nice belay ledge just below the top.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Your definition states that all property is owned by the community, this is not the case here. There is private property in our system but the above route lies in public property. If you want to label me a communist that's fine, it's a pretty good idea in theory but public property in our capitalist system is still public property. So, your point doesn't really go anywhere.

As for what people think about me, I couldn't care less. I'm here to present the ideas with rationale and hope that a few ... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: "Communist"?!?!? This is getting too good! Been watching too much Fox News I think.

If height doesn't matter then why did Glenn make a point of it here: "Am I seeing that photo right? It looks like a 15' boulder problem with 4 bolts on it." And you here: "So we have 3, 100ft traditional routes(did you put in any bolts?) With a minor approach and that may have been climbed before. You spent what an hour "cleaning" them?" So now you are telling me scale doesn't matter?!!? You ma... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: So, if the "community" agreed that stealing a car was ok, you would agree? Just pointing out that your logic makes no sense ;)

Its this attitude that someone has someone has ownership over a public resource that causes a rift in the community. If people would simply give to the community and demand nothing in return we would all be better off.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Most climbers agreeing doesn't make it right.

In your world, since this is so short, does it qualify for red tag status?


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: C'mon you can do better than that can't ya? This is like drowning a squirrel in a bucket.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I used to, but what fun is that? You are so hostile, find yourself some WI micro-brew and relax.

Capitalization is what separates us from the animals.

Ya know, it is time for a name change, how about "Red Tagger". Yes, I like it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I was afraid to even step on that thing.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Man, I sewed this one up nicely. You have represented CO climbers in such a lovely light haven't you "josh".

If you get to DL make sure you lead Acid Rock, classic!

BTW, people might respect you more if you capitalize your name ;)


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: Will do and since he's asked nicely I shall respect the red tag :)


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: "josh" you have not addressed one of my concerns directly, try again.

What someone puts in doesn't matter but if we were to use your system I have put in plenty and have more than enough experience to have a say.

Thinly disguised threats of violence are still threats of violence.

Can anyone tell us what good red tagging does for climbing?


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 13, 2012

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Comments: Right on Chris, this is nothing personal. I saw no pint where "josh" addressed my points, all I saw were threats of violence and the classic political punditry of name calling.

I don't see how me claiming rights to use public property can be selfish and I don't see how red tagging benefits the community. I have put tons of work into the climbing community and never asked for anything in return but according to "josh" that doesn't count and that's bullshit. Does it all really matter? No, but it'... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Sadly, it's raining here so, game on!

Another classic defense is to ignore argument and just claim that I don't know what I'm talking about. How about addressing my points? Here they are again for review:

-The idea of saving public property for ones persoanl use is selfish.

-Any personal property willingly added to public property becomes pubicly owned.

-Phyiscal confrontation over climbing ethics is uncivilized.

-ColoRADo beer sucks.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: You ever get the feeling that you're fucking with someone who likes to be fucked with?

(Sigh) I don't know another way to express that unconditional sharing is the heart of a positive and productive community. It's not about who has done more as no amount of work entitles anyone to close public property to anyone else.
Go ahead, red tag your routes if it makes you feel like a man, like you have contributed more to climbing than other people, I couldn't care less. If I see a red tag I will cut i... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: You are still not getting it J, try to wrap your tiny little brain around the following. THE AMOUNT OF TIME, MONEY, AND EFFORT, IS UNRELATED TO THE IDEA THAT RED TAGGING IS SELF-SERVING AND THEREFORE CONTRARY TO AN ETHOS OF OPENLY SHARING A NEW ROUTE. Can you tell us how much time, effort and money is required exactly to qualify getting pissed about someone getting the route before you? Of course not, the answer is arbitrary.

If we would like to talk about giving to the climbing community and w... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: In addition, do you see a guy, finding a boulder problem, cleaning it, scrubbing it, maybe fix the landing, clear the walk off, ie put in time and effort THEN claim no one else can try it until they send it first? It seems a little silly. What you do see is a group of people going out finding a problem, putting in time and effort and then collectively figuring the problem out and sending it. Everyone is psyched when someone sends, not throwing a tantrum because they put in the most work and then... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Sorry for the delay. J. you are clearly missing the point, if you are putting up routes strictly to be first then I think you shouldn't be putting up routes at all.

I never said my word is the final one, I'm giving my opinion and argument as to why I think that way, take it or leave it.

At this crag in fact I have put up three trad routes, Buddha Bukstein Crack, Whitney's Chimney, and Whitney's Revenge but I wouldn't say I got an FA not because I am or am not the first but because that's not ... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: I've cleaned and spent plenty of time prepping routes Josh, yet I never claim them for myself just because I put in the effort first. I said above we all appreciate the time, money and effort put into routes but to close the route to others just because the person who prepped it is egotistical and lame. I realize that this is some sort of tradition among sport climbers but it's a tradition that should die. No offense to Chris, he's just following that tradition but I humbly request the tradition... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The office project. (V7+)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: I never forget "The". I never use the MP search either, it's horrible. I always use Google.


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