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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Tradoholic


Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,279
Last Year: 417
Last 30 Days: 8
274 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5666 | Routes 271 | Areas 80 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments | Comments 1494 | Posts 877 | Stars 1015 | Ratings 554
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : La Reina (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : California Crack (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Red C3 perfect for the crux.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Zig Zag (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: An underrated climb, take care not to go off route, and the "exit" from the thin seam isn't obvious but surprisingly exciting. Did it in two pitches with a 70m.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Fuzzy climbing?!?!!? How did you lure him in?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : Rupley Towers
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: A little confusing to find these via directions from the current guidebook because of the 2010? construction. The trail is about 500ft from the main parking lot and starts down a short paved drainage. Follow the trail a bit right then cut left behind Tower "A" and back around to the front.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Agatha Christie (Direct) (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: There are much better climbs around Windy Point than this one, turn around and do "Old Man" 5.9 for one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Mean Mistreater (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: To confirm all hangers are still in place except for one missing off the two bolts next to the rap anchors for P1. I.E. rap anchors with chains still in place plus one bolt and one hangerless stud.

Pretty casual until the crux on P2, I thought more like a 10-. The crux can be well protected by a green C3 a bit higher than the bolt but the bolt is bomber too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Great route, lots of different techniques on this one, did it in one pitch to the Mean Mistreater anchors with a 70m.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Don't bother Woodchuck, nice for laps but not too interesting. Go to Wyalusing for some legit ice. However, I used to do a "Round Robin" every year of Stephens, Cox Hollow and Lone Rock for a solid day of ice.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Sacred Datura Direct (5.9 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: Starting on Succubus into this must be the non-direct?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: Hey, did anyone climb anything hard and scary this year? Tell us about it!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Stretcher (5.9+)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Less than a year in ColoRADo and you already want to bolt everything? Figures.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : Shipwreck Boulder
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: There's a sign on the north side of the boulder declaring that side closed but nothing on the Ship Wreak side.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: 5.9 moves and if you get lucky with the gear it protects just fine.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Derek Smalls' Crack (5.10a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Burt, you guys sure are adding to my return to WI tick list. Keep it up!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Bro's Before Holes (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: There's currently a left-behind anchor up there, the tri-cam and purple nut are recent but the rest might be pretty old and is on shallow nuts. The anchor ought to be at the top of the business, under the hourglass choss but that would require large cams or (ahem!) hardware.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: WTF? This climb is pretty much junk. Just about every hold was suspect and it only got worse as you get higher. In addition there was what looked like a mess of glue that was mixed too thin and then ran all over. Not to mention the moves weren't too great either.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: Clipped the pin and prayed I assume? Protected well after that I thought, I was considering replacing the pin.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: A "Left Section" could be added here to separate routes like Mongolia Thunder Pussy and Green Savior as the aren't really approached from the middle. Getting to these routes was probably easiest by going to the swamp slabs and then traversing on the pine tree ledge.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Green Savior (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: Belaying just post the "window" a 70m took this all the way to nice belay ledge just below the top.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Your definition states that all property is owned by the community, this is not the case here. There is private property in our system but the above route lies in public property. If you want to label me a communist that's fine, it's a pretty good idea in theory but public property in our capitalist system is still public property. So, your point doesn't really go anywhere.

As for what people think about me, I couldn't care less. I'm here to present the ideas with rationale and hope that a few ... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: "Communist"?!?!? This is getting too good! Been watching too much Fox News I think.

If height doesn't matter then why did Glenn make a point of it here: "Am I seeing that photo right? It looks like a 15' boulder problem with 4 bolts on it." And you here: "So we have 3, 100ft traditional routes(did you put in any bolts?) With a minor approach and that may have been climbed before. You spent what an hour "cleaning" them?" So now you are telling me scale doesn't matter?!!? You ma... more >>


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: So, if the "community" agreed that stealing a car was ok, you would agree? Just pointing out that your logic makes no sense ;)

Its this attitude that someone has someone has ownership over a public resource that causes a rift in the community. If people would simply give to the community and demand nothing in return we would all be better off.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Most climbers agreeing doesn't make it right.

In your world, since this is so short, does it qualify for red tag status?


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