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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,386
Last Year: 465
Last 30 Days: 35
286 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5751 | Routes 279 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1511 | Posts 883 | Stars 1064 | Ratings 557
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : Fool's Rush (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Both the guide book and the OP description is a bit lacking. My version: Go up the easy gully passing the first large overhang in a notch to the right. Above it is a nice ledge. Continue in the nice right-facing dihedral for a bit and then exit left onto the face, past the next overhang. I think the proper way to finish is to continue in the right facing dihedral but I followed some easier terrain to the left, but right of the White Maiden's Walkway. I will post some pics.

LOTS OF LOOSE BLOCKS ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : Fustercluck (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: SUCH A GOOD NAME!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Sherlocked (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: There's been some pontificating behind the scenes on weather or not this is a "new" route. For the purposes of MP it is because it hasn't been posted yet, however it has been TR'd before and surely named but I think "Sherlocked" is pretty good so unless Andy objects (he wouldn't) I would leave that.
For clarity regarding DL on MP I would remove the "R" rating until someone actually leads it, that allows strictly TR routes to be distinguished from lead/TR routes.
In addition my policy has alwa... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : American Dream Roof (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: I don't believe the uber direct has been sent.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Take a Stand (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Steve, didn't we call this Desalvo Slab? Or is that something different?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: This might be the long lost, and undone, Desalvo Slab.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Wong Climb (5.8) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I use the SP in this orientation, works better that way, easier to make clips.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: I have often used double rope technique at DL and elsewhere. Typically I use two skinny "single" rated ropes as either twins or halfs. As to what technique I use depends on the route and circumstances. I might go with twin style if I need two ropes for rappel for example. I might go with half style if the route wanders alot or has sketchy pro. I have also used two ropes to belay two followers at the same time, clipping one rope most of the time except in cases where I need to protect the first f... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Hex Marks the Poot (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a great route, anchors at the top of P1 and P2 are currently safe. I took it to the top per the suggestion of "john durr" on Primal Flake, finished with a nice no hands slab. No anchors at the very top, walked it off to the NW then traversed back around to the south side to our packs. Probably better to bring shoes and rap My Laundry and then walk back to packs from there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Make sure you start at the highest point of boulders leaning on the wall.

I think it's pretty standard to do this in two pitches.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Ryan Campground Bouldering : Sacred Land : The Arrowhead
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I added "Sacred Land" area to the Ryan Campground Bouldering page, in the new bouldering guide The Arrowhead is included in that area, P.246.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: This thing is hand size dependent, 11c is fair for even medium size hands. I removed the pesky .75 in the way at the crux, you're welcome.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Maybe the start is reachy? I lay-backed it with balance, got a perfect finger jam and hit the flat jug, not V3. I also tried Wanger Banger and that felt way harder, hand size dependent it seemed.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I shuffled an anchor through the traverse. A MUST do for JT.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Burning Sensation (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this one was great! Didn't seem reachy, just find the right feet and body position for your height.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Pigpen (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: At first this felt harder than V4 but unlocking an efficient sequence for the finish allowed it to be on grade, be creative with your jams.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : My Laundry (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, bird debris where not an issue. In the green Vogel guide it's not clear that this joins up with the last part of Solid Gold on the first pitch, if you do a sweet mantle on a jug to the last bolt you did it right.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Heh, my argument is made pretty clear above so I don't feel the need to touch on it but for the record I would never personally snip a red tag. I'm simply saying there's alot of people who contribute to the climbing community in a variety of ways, not just by bolting routes.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Dog (5.12a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: There's probably confusion on which holds are "on" this one. The key is to first acknowledge that there are in fact small holds contrary to the description (sorry Jay) and that after completing the traverse and matching on the pinch jug you must use your LEFT hand on the next higher crimp to set your self on the arete proper. Using your right pushes you into The End.
Classic moves and an impressive lead from Huston.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : The Flatiron (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: I finally got around to this one. Classic for the historical context. Also, rumor is the chipping was to clean a sharp part of the hold not to create a hold where none existed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Isn't that the "Cheetah" hold?!!?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Sword of Damocles (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Thank god for the bolt! Hip scumming appeared to work best in the chimney.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Frustration (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Just before entering the wide chimney I went left and laybacked the flake on the left, much easier I think but run-out a bit.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Captain Hook (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Serpentine (5.9-)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: This is a great slab route, but after a few pitches of slab no matter how good I usually would like to move on to some crack climbing.

-P1. At the third bolt it seems from the Vogel topo that you should be moving far right but the fourth bolt is actually directly above you. I climbed to the right and then stepped back left to clip the bolt because going straight up looked blank. You only need one medium nut to protect the start, right facing flake.

-P2. Yea the crux but pretty well protected f... more >>


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