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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, I sewed this one up nicely. You have represented CO climbers in such a lovely light haven't you "josh".
If you get to DL make sure you lead Acid Rock, classic!
BTW, people might respect you more if you capitalize your name ;)
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will do and since he's asked nicely I shall respect the red tag :)
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "josh" you have not addressed one of my concerns directly, try again.
What someone puts in doesn't matter but if we were to use your system I have put in plenty and have more than enough experience to have a say.
Thinly disguised threats of violence are still threats of violence.
Can anyone tell us what good red tagging does for climbing?
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right on Chris, this is nothing personal. I saw no pint where "josh" addressed my points, all I saw were threats of violence and the classic political punditry of name calling.
I don't see how me claiming rights to use public property can be selfish and I don't see how red tagging benefits the community. I have put tons of work into the climbing community and never asked for anything in return but according to "josh" that doesn't count and that's bullshit. Does it all really matter? No, but it'... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sadly, it's raining here so, game on!
Another classic defense is to ignore argument and just claim that I don't know what I'm talking about. How about addressing my points? Here they are again for review:
-The idea of saving public property for ones persoanl use is selfish.
-Any personal property willingly added to public property becomes pubicly owned.
-Phyiscal confrontation over climbing ethics is uncivilized.
-ColoRADo beer sucks.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You ever get the feeling that you're fucking with someone who likes to be fucked with?
(Sigh) I don't know another way to express that unconditional sharing is the heart of a positive and productive community. It's not about who has done more as no amount of work entitles anyone to close public property to anyone else.
Go ahead, red tag your routes if it makes you feel like a man, like you have contributed more to climbing than other people, I couldn't care less. If I see a red tag I will cut i... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are still not getting it J, try to wrap your tiny little brain around the following. THE AMOUNT OF TIME, MONEY, AND EFFORT, IS UNRELATED TO THE IDEA THAT RED TAGGING IS SELF-SERVING AND THEREFORE CONTRARY TO AN ETHOS OF OPENLY SHARING A NEW ROUTE. Can you tell us how much time, effort and money is required exactly to qualify getting pissed about someone getting the route before you? Of course not, the answer is arbitrary.
If we would like to talk about giving to the climbing community and w... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In addition, do you see a guy, finding a boulder problem, cleaning it, scrubbing it, maybe fix the landing, clear the walk off, ie put in time and effort THEN claim no one else can try it until they send it first? It seems a little silly. What you do see is a group of people going out finding a problem, putting in time and effort and then collectively figuring the problem out and sending it. Everyone is psyched when someone sends, not throwing a tantrum because they put in the most work and then... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry for the delay. J. you are clearly missing the point, if you are putting up routes strictly to be first then I think you shouldn't be putting up routes at all.
I never said my word is the final one, I'm giving my opinion and argument as to why I think that way, take it or leave it.
At this crag in fact I have put up three trad routes, Buddha Bukstein Crack, Whitney's Chimney, and Whitney's Revenge but I wouldn't say I got an FA not because I am or am not the first but because that's not ... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've cleaned and spent plenty of time prepping routes Josh, yet I never claim them for myself just because I put in the effort first. I said above we all appreciate the time, money and effort put into routes but to close the route to others just because the person who prepped it is egotistical and lame. I realize that this is some sort of tradition among sport climbers but it's a tradition that should die. No offense to Chris, he's just following that tradition but I humbly request the tradition... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The office project. (V7+)
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I never forget "The". I never use the MP search either, it's horrible. I always use Google.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The office project. (V7+)
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On that note, I hate how MP places "The" after the name. Chris, fix this, now. AND All caps might be a sweet rule for naming projects, attracts attention.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The office project. (V7+)
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Names are capitalized, please.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never understood the closed project "ethic". I mean, who cares who does it first? I won't go into the psychoanalysis, that's for the forums but I appreciate the invitation to climb it and I think I speak for everyone when I say we appreciate the new routes. However, in my opinion closed projects should remain the domain of CO navel gazers.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Closed project?!!? WTF is this, COLORADO?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Garbonzo Bean (5.7)
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Treiber's Deception (5.7)
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two #4's would be helpful for a 5.7 leader, bolts are junk but aren't really necessary anyway.
70m gets to the ground easy on the east face rap station.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's about an hour hike from the new parking lot to Tom's on the new trail. Might be harder but faster to go to Gardners Wall then scramble up to the Thumb.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : North Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a Flunker route.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : Renaissance Direct (5.7 R)
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts are kinda old on the 2nd pitch but it's the most secure 5.7 slab climbing you will ever do. Two raps with a 70m gets to the ground. A #4 BD C4 will calm the nerves for the last 15ft of the runout but it definitely gets way easier there.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : Hanging Gardens (5.5)
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can be done in one pitch with a 70m, gear belay in pod 15ft from the chains. Rapped it with one 70m too, will not reach chain anchor on route though, there's another anchor climbers right and higher on a different route that will get you to the ground in one more rap.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not a sport area.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the route this way linking to the belay at the base of the 5.8 finger crack with a 70m rope. No rope drag with use of slings.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : West Lark (5.5)
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vogel has a very different line for this climb in the guide that I found enjoyable and accurate. I will post a pic of the start.
Basically, climb a crack then traverse left on ledges to a right-facing corner system. Buy the guide and follow the topo to do this climb. THE OP DESCRIPTION ABOVE IS NOT ADEQUATE.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: Trad Nanny When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The origional third 5.7 pitch is well worth doing but the crux moves are unprotected, might get a tiny nut in, it gets easier soon with good albiet small pro.
Follow the guidebook topo to finish it up, basically another traverse pitch and pull through a notch for another pitch of 5.easy climbing above.
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