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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,292
Last Year: 428
Last 30 Days: 14
275 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5690 | Routes 272 | Areas 80 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments | Comments 1497 | Posts 881 | Stars 1030 | Ratings 555
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Burning Sensation (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this one was great! Didn't seem reachy, just find the right feet and body position for your height.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Pigpen (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: At first this felt harder than V4 but unlocking an efficient sequence for the finish allowed it to be on grade, be creative with your jams.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : My Laundry (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, bird debris where not an issue. In the green Vogel guide it's not clear that this joins up with the last part of Solid Gold on the first pitch, if you do a sweet mantle on a jug to the last bolt you did it right.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Heh, my argument is made pretty clear above so I don't feel the need to touch on it but for the record I would never personally snip a red tag. I'm simply saying there's alot of people who contribute to the climbing community in a variety of ways, not just by bolting routes.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Dog (5.12a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: There's probably confusion on which holds are "on" this one. The key is to first acknowledge that there are in fact small holds contrary to the description (sorry Jay) and that after completing the traverse and matching on the pinch jug you must use your LEFT hand on the next higher crimp to set your self on the arete proper. Using your right pushes you into The End.
Classic moves and an impressive lead from Huston.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : The Flatiron (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: I finally got around to this one. Classic for the historical context. Also, rumor is the chipping was to clean a sharp part of the hold not to create a hold where none existed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Isn't that the "Cheetah" hold?!!?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Sword of Damocles (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Thank god for the bolt! Hip scumming appeared to work best in the chimney.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Frustration (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Just before entering the wide chimney I went left and laybacked the flake on the left, much easier I think but run-out a bit.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Captain Hook (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Serpentine (5.9-)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: This is a great slab route, but after a few pitches of slab no matter how good I usually would like to move on to some crack climbing.

-P1. At the third bolt it seems from the Vogel topo that you should be moving far right but the fourth bolt is actually directly above you. I climbed to the right and then stepped back left to clip the bolt because going straight up looked blank. You only need one medium nut to protect the start, right facing flake.

-P2. Yea the crux but pretty well protected f... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Scuttlebutt (V0)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Not reachy but definitely requires good body english and rubber trust.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Out of Touch (V2+)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: I started with the flake, seemed most logical. Great top out!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Undertow (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: I cleaned out the finish hold today, people might want to run up top before doing this as the dish will collect pebbles. A great problem.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Stonehenge and Fry Boulders : Fry Boulders : ... : Fry Problem (V2)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Very cool, a must do. Shade most of the day.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Romp Roof : Flake Direct (V2+)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Great problem to start the day. Traverse off right to get down.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Romp Roof : Roof Romp (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Good problem, but pretty easy for V4, especially if comparing to Pigpen.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Powell Boulder : Powell Face (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Easy for V3, I didn't use the jugs out left.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V3 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: V3 in the modern context I think, especially considering the landing. A classic must do highball.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Solarium (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Getting pretty polished, it hurts the quality. Chalk, scrub, blow, repeat.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Leary/Bard Arete (V5)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: This was really good, trust the rubber up top.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Pollen Grains / Lidija Boul... : ... : Lidija's Mouth (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: This is a classic unique problem. Still V3 for me at 6ft tall I thought.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Pollen Grains / Lidija Boul... : ... : Suspended in Silence (V5+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Left start has to be pretty hard now, sideways dyno maybe? Anyway the regular dyno is still money. Eases off right in time, I thought two pads was sufficient.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: Ice climbing still "easy" Remo?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Upper Devils Canyon : Lost Wall : Queen Creek Freak (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 14, 2013

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Comments: There was an old sling around a boulder at the top but no tree. I set an anchor in the rocks back from the edge.


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