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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 17
Total Points: 12,426
Last Year: 485
Last 30 Days: 6
296 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5802 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1531 | Posts 886 | Stars 1089 | Ratings 558
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Icon (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Not sure why this is "classic". Rock is suspect and greasy and the jams aren't fun.

Webbing on the anchor is bad, have your partner follow then traverse over to rap anchors on Black Diamond (two bolts up higher w/o rap rings, two bolts lower with rap rings).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Exorcist (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Maybe 10a but definitely four stars, getting shut down is no reason to give it less stars.


Location: MN : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: That's cool!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Real Hidden Valley Circuit : ... : Saturday Night Live (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Speaking of not doing the whole problem, I assumed matching on crack was the proper start, making this a two move wonder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Sidewinder (5.10b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Less than par rock on the first part keeps this from being classic, watch out for the sucker jug above the crack, it will make a widow out of some pretty lady someday.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : EBGB's (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: A must do. I found the mantle interesting but not awkward. Crux right at the last bolt and the run-out pretty tame. Make the right decisions on direction at the top and it's a breeze.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Y Crack Buttress : The Y Crack (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Solid 3 stars. Triples in C4 green and red are nice but not mandatory. Tat anchor sucks, bring a knife and some replacement, bolts are good though. FYI, route finishes climbers right of the anchor, so top out, set a trad anchor or look left for the bolts and a hanging belay.

That nice crack to the right is 11c apparently. Can't recall the name...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Where's Vinny with "Fight Club" when you need him?!!?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Bitch Better Have My Money (V6)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: LOL! Welcome to the Lake, eh Ian?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Tombstone : The S Cracker (5.11a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This thing looked REALLY excellent. I shall return!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Overnight Sensation (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Really fun! The choss is over quick and leads into great moves. Protects well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Where Have all the Cowboys ... (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: One tricky 10d slab section, otherwise pretty straight forward, well bolted!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Suicide Horn Rock : Bighorn Dihedral (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Awkward and hard start leads into perfect dihedral climbing with a healthy run-out. I put in the largest DMM brass-offset and took it 30 feet or so to safety with a few useless micro-nuts in-between. I thought the rock quality was pretty good, crumbly down low but I stuck to climbing in the crack into the dihedral directly.
Long but easy hike, easier than Queen Mountain.
Kudos to Simon for the tag-team ascent!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Step (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: I had some trouble at the roof, up and down, but once I saw how to do it went down nicely. It all protects pretty well, one #4 useful for the layback finish.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: P2 has a short but definitely solid 10a section. Continuing after the dihedral go slightly right then back left to the lunch ledge pine-tree for a full pitch. Rap from there or finish on one of the many variations to the top.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Blank (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Done in two pitches, very awkward in the dihedral, I was under-cling fist-jamming, whatever that is.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Pigs in Bondage (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Did the crux over the bush, got to the slab and saw the rusty 1/4in bolt, no thanks. Contrived to go up the slab anyway.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: I skipped the first pitches, just scrambled to The Jungle, didn't seem to be any rave reviews for the first two pitches. The $ pitch seemed pretty easy and short for 10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : The Uneventful (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Would say going this way was 5.5 while staying in the dihedral appeared (and I've heard) to be 5.8-ish.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Forget just linking 1+2, with a few feet of simul-climbing and a 70m you can link all the way to lunch ledge.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : The Uneventful (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: From 10/10.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundike (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 12, 2013

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Comments: Awesome pitch, very technical.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 12, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the best in Idyllwild! Topo is a bit outdated in the vogel book, no pin on p2, new bolt.

SPOILER ALERT!

Traverse directly right at the final bolt on p2, hands on two small black knobs, then breathe for a heady 5.6 runout, no pro after that bolt.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : What does the fox say? (V3-)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I watched the entire video. There, I admitted it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingergrip (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: A little gardening and no pro coming out of The Jungle, but it shapes up quickly, fun if you've done all the other moderates on the wall.


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