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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Tradoholic


Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,279
Last Year: 417
Last 30 Days: 8
274 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5666 | Routes 271 | Areas 80 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments | Comments 1494 | Posts 877 | Stars 1015 | Ratings 554
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Red Rock Route (5.1)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Huh? 5.7? I don't think so, super easy all the way, no chimney moves required, jugs all the way.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : North East Rib (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Yea, ok climbing. Rope up the noobs on the approach as you pass under Farce. The fixed pin in the small blocky roof marks the start of the actual route. Couple of options to take above.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Right Ski Track (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Because it doesn't follow the natural line. The natural line would be the path of least resistance, that's what I did at about 5.8. The traverse deliberately goes a different direction.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Right Ski Track (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: Total contrivance. I clipped the bolt and looked up on glorious jugs, under clings to the off-width corner, OR I could have done the actual 5.9 part by traversing down and right on some gnar slab. Why? Either way it's just a small variant of Left Ski Track.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : King Dome Area : ... : Lynn Hill Memorial Face Pro... (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Solid V4 with a good landing and just enough spice. Use yer feet!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : The Uneventful (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: I have since done the dihedral, it's pretty easy, 5.5 is about right.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Geology Tour Road Boulderin... : Western Belt : ... : Slashface (V3 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Everyone seems to have a different way of doing this, along with exciting height and moves that require finesse this is a true standard of classic JT bouldering.

Also...HEY! Chill out with the tick marks!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Light Sabre (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Solid three stars, the bottom corner is the crux, keep the feet our right and your back against the left wall, coming out of the rest looks hard but isn't...commit.

Anchor bolts were good.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Alice Rock : Black Rabbit (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: Solid fun, using the arete at the top is easier. The anchor is a good edition.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Alice Rock : Alice in Wonderjam (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: Solid 3 stars, gets harder the higher you get, bring the C4 #4.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : The Comic Strip : The Comic Strip - SW Face : Comic Book (5.9+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: A little run in the start, a small c3 would have helped maybe. Definite crux out of the pod, lay it back and commit. I could find a rap anchor, we rapped of an anchor behind the climb to the NW, with anal beads attached to it, yes I said "anal beads".


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Icon (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: Before reading your comments I decided to down-grade to two stars, it's just not that good!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Icon (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Not sure why this is "classic". Rock is suspect and greasy and the jams aren't fun.

Webbing on the anchor is bad, have your partner follow then traverse over to rap anchors on Black Diamond (two bolts up higher w/o rap rings, two bolts lower with rap rings).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Exorcist (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Maybe 10a but definitely four stars, getting shut down is no reason to give it less stars.


Location: MN : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: That's cool!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Real Hidden Valley Circuit : ... : Saturday Night Live (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Speaking of not doing the whole problem, I assumed matching on crack was the proper start, making this a two move wonder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Sidewinder (5.10b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Less than par rock on the first part keeps this from being classic, watch out for the sucker jug above the crack, it will make a widow out of some pretty lady someday.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : EBGB's (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: A must do. I found the mantle interesting but not awkward. Crux right at the last bolt and the run-out pretty tame. Make the right decisions on direction at the top and it's a breeze.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Y Crack Buttress : The Y Crack (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Solid 3 stars. Triples in C4 green and red are nice but not mandatory. Tat anchor sucks, bring a knife and some replacement, bolts are good though. FYI, route finishes climbers right of the anchor, so top out, set a trad anchor or look left for the bolts and a hanging belay.

That nice crack to the right is 11c apparently. Can't recall the name...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Where's Vinny with "Fight Club" when you need him?!!?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Bitch Better Have My Money (V6)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: LOL! Welcome to the Lake, eh Ian?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Tombstone : The S Cracker (5.11a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This thing looked REALLY excellent. I shall return!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Overnight Sensation (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Really fun! The choss is over quick and leads into great moves. Protects well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Where Have all the Cowboys ... (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: One tricky 10d slab section, otherwise pretty straight forward, well bolted!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Suicide Horn Rock : Bighorn Dihedral (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Awkward and hard start leads into perfect dihedral climbing with a healthy run-out. I put in the largest DMM brass-offset and took it 30 feet or so to safety with a few useless micro-nuts in-between. I thought the rock quality was pretty good, crumbly down low but I stuck to climbing in the crack into the dihedral directly.
Long but easy hike, easier than Queen Mountain.
Kudos to Simon for the tag-team ascent!


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