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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,409
Last Year: 481
Last 30 Days: 58
286 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5761 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1514 | Posts 883 | Stars 1069 | Ratings 557
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Pull the pin. If a Ball-Nut didn't fit I was going to put in a new one on lead. That was the plan anyway. Bought a pin but left the area a month later so never got to it.
The only opinion that matters is the FA of course but I would think that anything more hard-core than clipping something you didn't place on lead would be perfectly acceptable to the DLFA.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : Last Grapes (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Yea fun. I felt bad standing on the little tree though, no way around it. The bolted belay on the left is easy to miss. I stayed right and belayed off a slung tree, then continued on easy ground to the top.

The right facing dihedral ever been freed?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Shit ya. Props. I would like to see this climb go sans pin. My plan was to pull the pin and place a ball-nut in its place. I never felt comfortable on the crux moves though.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Error (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: This is a decent climb and despite the name plus other comments, pretty straight forward.

At the "body swallower" crack the climber needs to go left. I saw the gear left behind at the top of that crack. After getting to the large ledge with the crooked tree the topos say to do a 5.7 traverse to the larger right facing corner. Don't do it! As the ledge peters out head up the crack system it puts you into and pick your adventure to the top.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Sentinel Area : Sentinel Crack (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: "Rite"


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : The Illegitimate (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: I liked this one, pretty interesting. On P3 I tried to exit direct through the roofs (listed as The Bastard 10b in Vogel's book). I whipped a bit and then decided to take the right exit. About a dozen feet below the roof at ring-pin with old green tat on it I exited right onto the face and went up and right (not right and down) at 5.8 R to join White Maiden.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Swallow (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Solid three stars. Off the two pin anchor on P1 (tatty white webbing) go to the left crack, straight up is chossy, and get into the off width (#5 c4 was useful for sure).

For the finish I pretty much went straight up, just right of Whodunit, nary a move of 5.10.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hot Buttered Rump (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Pick your poison. Start facing out and then convert to the lip for a wild ride or go face in for a suffer-fest. I was forced to run it out going the face out route, but it was fun!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : David (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Not "R" as described in the Vogel guide, easy to step back into the crack from the face to place.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Whitney's Revenge (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: In a Man's world. Glad you got on it!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Solid 10b, protects well with a c4 #4 and #5 at the top.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Unzipped(aka The Zipper Dir... (5.13 V8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: I just revisited visions of Emerson somersaulting down the hill!!!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Lonesome Crowded West : All Nice On Ice : Doin' The Cockroach (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Tricky at the top, I mantled.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Echo Rock Bouldering : Echo Rock Boulders : ... : Flake Dyno (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Commit or fail, it's up to you.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: This is not long after dude decked hard-o at the creek. #BADASS!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Hesitation (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Solid fun, well-bolted.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Delila (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: 5.9!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Le Dent Pinnacle : Munge Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful brutality! I used a #5 C4 up high in the thrutching chimney. Stick with it!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Le Dent Pinnacle : Jammit (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Solid fun! Lots of no hands rests, crux is def the overhanging start.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Deception Pillar : Deception Pillar (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Linked it with a 70m.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Left Peyote Crack (5.10+ PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: V3 with a good landing. This is pretty tame using good technique. I would never bother to rope up on it, not even that tall!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Red Rock Route (5.1)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Huh? 5.7? I don't think so, super easy all the way, no chimney moves required, jugs all the way.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : North East Rib (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Yea, ok climbing. Rope up the noobs on the approach as you pass under Farce. The fixed pin in the small blocky roof marks the start of the actual route. Couple of options to take above.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Right Ski Track (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Because it doesn't follow the natural line. The natural line would be the path of least resistance, that's what I did at about 5.8. The traverse deliberately goes a different direction.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Right Ski Track (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: Total contrivance. I clipped the bolt and looked up on glorious jugs, under clings to the off-width corner, OR I could have done the actual 5.9 part by traversing down and right on some gnar slab. Why? Either way it's just a small variant of Left Ski Track.


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