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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,386
Last Year: 465
Last 30 Days: 35
286 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5751 | Routes 279 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1511 | Posts 883 | Stars 1064 | Ratings 557
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Grace Slick (5.10b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: I liked P1. P2 was like floating up nothing through the crux which was fun but A. the line skipped the obvious weakness up and right through a thin crack so it was a bit contrived and B. it headed for a third bolt then abruptly angled left to the finish anchors when it would have been better to go straight up a nice crack to finish on newer anchors on the right or just keep going for the summit. Anyway, bring a few small cams to finish up a 5.8 crack for P2, it's sweet.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Haunting (V8)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: A cool variation is turning around three times before starting. I call it "The Spins" V9


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : My Pink Half of the Drainpi... (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Rad line, takes some gear know-how to keep the rope drag down. Not too hard either, 10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Too Biased (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Continue to the top for some more nice climbing. For P4 I zigged right to start then straight up through a roof right over a tree. Moves over the roof seem improbable but they go nicely.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Toe Tip (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch is a nice way to get to the jungle but the second pitch is a total contrivance.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Oz - (AKA The Road To Emera... (5.12b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: This pic is so midwest.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Greasy Kid Stuff (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Maybe a green C3 will work in the upper horizontal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : North Buttress (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Start in a nice right facing corner, heading into some trees.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Steinke Wall : ... : Heineken Crack (V2)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: WTF? People climb here?!!?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : After the Gold Rush (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: Name changed, thanks Bob. Definitely wasn't 5.9!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Razor's Edge (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: No bats but plenty of lizards. Yea, that's a thin flake!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: There's three random bolts on the top, none set for rappel, I left a sling and locker on one to do three raps down to the ground.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : The Breeze (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Not R. I finished on the 5.7 end of The Jackal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Farce (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the guide book doesn't quite scale as to how far you need to go in the dihedral. The traverse should start on a decent foot ledge with a piton in the middle at foot level. The traverse does go no hands for a move or two but is pretty chill.
From the top of the wide crack on P2 you should go more or less straight up passing two old bolts just right of a flake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Bonamici Arete(aka Tequila) (V3 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: "Bonameathead Arete"?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Blankety Blank (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Second pitch crux bolt is still junk. 3rd pitch bolt isn't so great either so I bailed right after clipping. Funny that the badly needed crux bolts on this route haven't been replaced but all the others have.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Switchbacks, Direct Start (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Heading right to a second bolt is the route Betty, 5.10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : West Lark (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Right-o Brent. I've changed the description.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Big Daddy (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The start is sketch!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Upside Down Cake (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Fun! Crux is the last move, #4 good to have, #5 too but not mandatory.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : Lip Up Fatty (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the Vogel+Gaines book is definitely off for a large portion of this buttress. From the "JTree Ledge" for this route I tried to enter the "alcove" as described in the book but it looked totally whack so I continued left past a small tree to bypass a roof with a old nut (with cord) fixed at the base. Pulled the roof (fun and exposed) and wandered a bit left to an obvious exit toward the top.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Goliath (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: OMG, do yourself a favor and use the lip at the start of the chimney, left foot on slap right foot and hands on lip, WAY easier! Follow a bomber flake into the wider part of the chimney and then enjoy. Runout but easy chimney from there.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Pull the pin. If a Ball-Nut didn't fit I was going to put in a new one on lead. That was the plan anyway. Bought a pin but left the area a month later so never got to it.
The only opinion that matters is the FA of course but I would think that anything more hard-core than clipping something you didn't place on lead would be perfectly acceptable to the DLFA.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : Last Grapes (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Yea fun. I felt bad standing on the little tree though, no way around it. The bolted belay on the left is easy to miss. I stayed right and belayed off a slung tree, then continued on easy ground to the top.

The right facing dihedral ever been freed?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Shit ya. Props. I would like to see this climb go sans pin. My plan was to pull the pin and place a ball-nut in its place. I never felt comfortable on the crux moves though.


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