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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,312
Last Year: 452
Last 30 Days: 28
278 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5705 | Routes 274 | Areas 80 | Photos 1374 | Page Improvments | Comments 1502 | Posts 881 | Stars 1039 | Ratings 555
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : After the Gold Rush (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Name changed, thanks Bob. Definitely wasn't 5.9!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Razor's Edge (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: No bats but plenty of lizards. Yea, that's a thin flake!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: There's three random bolts on the top, none set for rappel, I left a sling and locker on one to do three raps down to the ground.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : The Breeze (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Not R. I finished on the 5.7 end of The Jackal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Farce (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The topo in the guide book doesn't quite scale as to how far you need to go in the dihedral. The traverse should start on a decent foot ledge with a piton in the middle at foot level. The traverse does go no hands for a move or two but is pretty chill.
From the top of the wide crack on P2 you should go more or less straight up passing two old bolts just right of a flake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Bonamici Arete(aka Tequila) (V3 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: "Bonameathead Arete"?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Blankety Blank (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Second pitch crux bolt is still junk. 3rd pitch bolt isn't so great either so I bailed right after clipping. Funny that the badly needed crux bolts on this route haven't been replaced but all the others have.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Switchbacks, Direct Start (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Heading right to a second bolt is the route Betty, 5.10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : West Lark (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Right-o Brent. I've changed the description.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Big Daddy (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The start is sketch!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Upside Down Cake (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Fun! Crux is the last move, #4 good to have, #5 too but not mandatory.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : Lip Up Fatty (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the Vogel+Gaines book is definitely off for a large portion of this buttress. From the "JTree Ledge" for this route I tried to enter the "alcove" as described in the book but it looked totally whack so I continued left past a small tree to bypass a roof with a old nut (with cord) fixed at the base. Pulled the roof (fun and exposed) and wandered a bit left to an obvious exit toward the top.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Goliath (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: OMG, do yourself a favor and use the lip at the start of the chimney, left foot on slap right foot and hands on lip, WAY easier! Follow a bomber flake into the wider part of the chimney and then enjoy. Runout but easy chimney from there.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Pull the pin. If a Ball-Nut didn't fit I was going to put in a new one on lead. That was the plan anyway. Bought a pin but left the area a month later so never got to it.
The only opinion that matters is the FA of course but I would think that anything more hard-core than clipping something you didn't place on lead would be perfectly acceptable to the DLFA.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : Last Grapes (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Yea fun. I felt bad standing on the little tree though, no way around it. The bolted belay on the left is easy to miss. I stayed right and belayed off a slung tree, then continued on easy ground to the top.

The right facing dihedral ever been freed?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Shit ya. Props. I would like to see this climb go sans pin. My plan was to pull the pin and place a ball-nut in its place. I never felt comfortable on the crux moves though.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Error (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: This is a decent climb and despite the name plus other comments, pretty straight forward.

At the "body swallower" crack the climber needs to go left. I saw the gear left behind at the top of that crack. After getting to the large ledge with the crooked tree the topos say to do a 5.7 traverse to the larger right facing corner. Don't do it! As the ledge peters out head up the crack system it puts you into and pick your adventure to the top.


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Sentinel Area : Sentinel Crack (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: "Rite"


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : The Illegitimate (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: I liked this one, pretty interesting. On P3 I tried to exit direct through the roofs (listed as The Bastard 10b in Vogel's book). I whipped a bit and then decided to take the right exit. About a dozen feet below the roof at ring-pin with old green tat on it I exited right onto the face and went up and right (not right and down) at 5.8 R to join White Maiden.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Swallow (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Solid three stars. Off the two pin anchor on P1 (tatty white webbing) go to the left crack, straight up is chossy, and get into the off width (#5 c4 was useful for sure).

For the finish I pretty much went straight up, just right of Whodunit, nary a move of 5.10.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hot Buttered Rump (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Pick your poison. Start facing out and then convert to the lip for a wild ride or go face in for a suffer-fest. I was forced to run it out going the face out route, but it was fun!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : David (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Not "R" as described in the Vogel guide, easy to step back into the crack from the face to place.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Whitney's Revenge (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: In a Man's world. Glad you got on it!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Solid 10b, protects well with a c4 #4 and #5 at the top.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Unzipped(aka The Zipper Dir... (5.13 V8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: I just revisited visions of Emerson somersaulting down the hill!!!!


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