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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique).
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Cloak and Dagger (5.13b)
By: reboot When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The loose flake right of the 3rd bolt is completely gone now. This significantly changes the right "variation", if still possible. Regardless of how one gets past the 3rd bolt, the traverse is probably a bit harder now that the broken flake eliminated a good foot hold. Maybe it's 13c again?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a set of nuts 8 ft off the ledge. Seem to have been there for a while (and a little blood stained). Describe correctly and they shall be returned.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: reboot When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "death block" appears to flex a lot more than just a few months ago (I can feel the thing move even when standing directly on it). It probably should be dealt soon (maybe it'll survive this summer but probably not through the winter). The route would still go (and in worst case will make climbing through bolt 6 & 7 pumpier, but you can recover @ bolt 8) without (significantly) changing the overall grade. I don't have a drill, but I'd be happy to help?
A similarly sized block to clip the anc... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: reboot When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tommey, the cam was still there 12/10. The bad news (for you) is we left it, as it's a good belay piece (with 1st bolt of P4) for those with no wide gear left at top of P3. It didn't look very stuck at all though, so get back on it!
As for the rap, I remember there used to be a nest of gear on Center Route, so you can do 4 raps with a 70m (now about the only thing 70m is good for is linking P2 & P3). Try to hand traverse a bit on the 2nd rap Phil described to get to P3 of Turf Spreader@SEMICOLO... more >>
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo
By: reboot When: Aug 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few things about the description:
Air Asia and some other local carriers fly into Guangzhou, often at very cheap rates.
Guangzhou isn't all that close to Yangshuo. You can fly into Guilin, the neighboring city, from any major city in China (Beijing, Shanghai Hongkong, etc), Bangkok, Singapore, and probably a few others.
It’s next to impossible to ‘wing it’ with an attempt at Cantonese or Mandarin.
Of course you can't wing it in Cantonese. You are in Guangxi, not Guangdo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Boys with Power Toys (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route that rewards technique more than brawn. More interesting move than many other routes on this wall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up there 6/4/11. With the Rifle flooding closure, I encountered 15-20 (including myself) people at the crag on 4 routes. A bit crowded yes, but what worried me was the noise everyone (myself included) generated. Some hikers came down and inquired me about whether there was an accident (probably from an agonizing unsend). What I'm trying to say is as the crag is right off the trail, it would behoove everyone to be discrete while there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Milk Bone (5.13a)
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route with a cool crux and very intricate body movement/positioning above. Yes, the business is only about 3-4 bolts long, but it really packs a punch. I thought it's slightly harder and better than the neighboring Ultrasaurus (thought the 2 have very different style).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13b)
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried the route 6/5. I don't know Kaelen, and while I think one star is a bit harsh, it certainly doesn't compare to either 13s on Dino Rock. The crux moves may deserve 13-, but they aren't particular interesting. The rest of the route is actually pretty good, but I can see why someone wanting to get on a 13 would be disappointed.
Edit:
Went back again today, it actually climbed better the second time around. Crux required pretty subtle body position if the route is at your limit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: reboot When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam, I've not been back on the route since you & I were there. I shameless took the grade from Rossiter's book; how am I to judge what the grade of the original traverse is if I haven't been able to do it? Still, I don't think doing the traverse would add any pump to the rest of the route. In that respect, I'd think Evictor is much harder.
This is the only climb (original traverse) I've been on where I think I'd have a better chance of making the move if I strap some weights on my an... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Scary Canary (5.12b/c R)
By: reboot When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: reboot When: May 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: wcurudy - it most definitely is.
Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: reboot When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt quite a bit easier than Foxtrot. The gear also does not get in the way nearly as much. A fine route though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: reboot When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.
Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Fang (WI5-6)
By: reboot When: Jan 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like it touched down (viewed from I-70) but thin.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Jan 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw a strong climber going directly onto the arete and got it clean last weekend. He said it was a lot harder than going to the right but didn't elaborate on the grade.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c) : Photo
By: reboot When: Aug 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The exit is the right-leaning crack (5.9) in the picture.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: reboot When: Aug 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: splattipus:
So you were the one that sent us off route (and made me repeatedly fall & take), huh? The cams were left there, as they'd serve as scary but passable rap anchor. I noticed as I went through the right-curving flake and traversing back to almost directly above the cam anchor that there was a more direct looking (and easier) line starting just left of the cam anchor. It had a slight right curve, which would be consistent with the topo. Since nowhere else on the route had what felt like ... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: reboot When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To add to theREALangry's comments:
Loose rocks: they are everywhere...it is the Black. End of P3: there are HUGE blocks right of the nut+sling anchor that are not supported on much. If possible, climb directly under the anchor. End of P11: depending on how you arrive at the ledge, there are large blocks that flexes. The only saving grace is that, at either location, you are unlikely to kill your belayer if you pull them loose.
P5: Belay right above, below or higher above the 11b roof problem, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Joke Crack to Superstone (5.11a R)
By: reboot When: Jul 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a three-star route IF the wall and the easy crack forming the start of purple haze weren't there. But as it is, it felt very contrived. Without using the "easy" crack and stemming the wall for rest, this felt like a 10, but then again, one must use it to get started...
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : .30-06 (5.12a)
By: reboot When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: And Rolofson reversed the name on the newer edition of the guide book. FWIW.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: reboot When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Errr, tried doing this as a single pitch... and I don't recommend it. Basically, you can either screw your second with little protection on the roof traverse or give yourself rope drag from hell.
I don't know if there was a defined crux on this route, but the roof traverse has poor feet for a couple moves for shorter guys and once the roof is turned, the upper section gets pumpy (or was it because of my 40 lb rope drag?) I don't know why anybody bothered to mention the OW, cause, it ain't no O... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Thunderdome (5.12a)
By: reboot When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given how some of the sport routes here gets more than 3 star average, I'm hesitant to give this 3 stars, but I think that's all it deserves. It does not have a crack crux or any sustained hard crack section.
I hung & fell at the crux (I was already pumped from a couple sport routes) before figuring out it was a bouldering problem, not a finger crack crux. Still, this feels at most 11+ for somebody with strong arms. At any rate, the protection is pretty straightforward and falls from the crux o... more >>
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Groove Tube (5.9-)
By: reboot When: Jun 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is fairly short and arches to the left. It goes ~5.10. Be warned that a 60m will NOT get you (rappel) down to the ground. There is a set of bolts 100 ft above ground you can rap off of that's somewhat below the 2nd pitch, but please back up the rap as you might swing trying to reach it.
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