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Member Since: Oct 24, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 19, 2011
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Point Rank: # 21,693
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 4 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 2 | Posts | Stars 1 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: RBF When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: Tony could not help it, he was condescendent as usual.

I was by no mean suggesting to change bolt position nor add more bolts.
I was simply and generously posting a creative solution to safely climb a WELL DOCUMENTED decking situation on pitch 1 of this specific climb.

If only useful betas would be posted on those forums and comments, mp.com would be pleasant to visit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: RBF When: Jun 17, 2010

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Comments: Both of us felt 5.10c/d is more appropriate than 5.10a.
I agree with 5.10c if you are 6 foot tall (my partner is).
If you are smaller like 5 foot 8 as I am, it is about 5.10d in my opinion.

Say, you know the moves from a prior ascent.
Only then you would feel a little closer to 5.10a.
But def not 5.10a for an onsight.

The first bolt is too far to the right and too high.
As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall.
I can't imag... more >>