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Member Since: Oct 24, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 19, 2011

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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13) By: RBF When: Jun 24, 2010	view comment >>
Comments: Tony could not help it, he was condescendent as usual. I was by no mean suggesting to change bolt position nor add more bolts. I was simply and generously posting a creative solution to safely climb a WELL DOCUMENTED decking situation on pitch 1 of this specific climb. If only useful betas would be posted on those forums and comments, mp.com would be pleasant to visit.
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13) By: RBF When: Jun 17, 2010	view comment >>
Comments: Both of us felt 5.10c/d is more appropriate than 5.10a. I agree with 5.10c if you are 6 foot tall (my partner is). If you are smaller like 5 foot 8 as I am, it is about 5.10d in my opinion. Say, you know the moves from a prior ascent. Only then you would feel a little closer to 5.10a. But def not 5.10a for an onsight. The first bolt is too far to the right and too high. As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall. I can't imag... more >>