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Member Since: Sep 5, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 2, 2012
Contact Ray Snead


Point Rank: # 1,542
Total Points: 391
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 124 | Routes 27 | Areas 4 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 51 | Posts | Stars 35 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Runaway (5.8)
By: Ray Snead When: Oct 19, 2005

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Comments: A silk purse from a sow's ear, Runaway is amazingly good given the nondescript terrain it covers. A reported 4 DAYS of cleaning brought the route to its current condition, which perhaps sheds some light on why our various vocal trads ignored the route until the bolts made it easy to locate.

Note to "but there's gear" activists: this route would *never* have been done ground up trad (not because it isn't possible, but because death blocks and moss aren't appealing). Now it's going to get climbed... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Chains of Love (5.12b)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 12, 2005

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Comments: Roland the Headless Thompson Gunner?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Ray Snead When: Oct 25, 2004

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Comments: I believe that Dan Hare equipped this route, and I suspect that he wouldn't object to adding a bolt or two.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Bar None (5.8)
By: Ray Snead When: Oct 11, 2004

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Comments: Intimidating looking, and the crux is perplexing, but it probably really is only 5.8. A bit crispy at the second bolt.

Neverthess, a worthy and exciting "moderate" outing if combined with What if You're Not and P1 of Hell Freezes Over.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Hell Freezes Over (5.12a)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 21, 2004

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Comments: We stumped up there this morning to do the first pitch. This alone is worth the hike and 1.5 stars: 2 for the climbing and covert and scenic position, but subtract half for dirt, lichen, and rock quality. It should clean up acceptably, except perhaps for the huge death block (with mysterious chalked line) at the 2nd to last bolt. Tread carefully here; belayers beware.

The start felt height dependent and hard for the given grade, the middle really fun, and the top exciting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Tony Bubb's Little Stick (5.10d)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 21, 2004

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Comments: LJBS is a trivial pile, at best a one star route on a one star crag. I did clip the bolts when it first went in, but personally would never have put them in in the first place, chopped them, or re-installed them.

The "disgusting affair" started with the wrong-headed chopping of the route. All we have is agreement with FA wishes and concensus in matters such as these, and it's pretty clear that neither were achieved before chopping.

Then, if Alan wanted to take a stand he should have simply re-... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 20, 2004

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Comments: A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides.

A good route worth the two bolts, I think.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Tony Bubb's Little Stick (5.10d)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 20, 2004

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Comments: Ron describes a stupid but time honored practice, usually promoted by jaded first ascensionists at tiny climbing areas with nothing better to do.

Whether the climbing is good in that 24" swath of rock is irrelevant - the whole affair is disgusting.




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Tony Bubb's Little Stick (5.10d)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 20, 2004

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Comments: I'm with Crusher. I can understand Alan replacing the bolts on LJBS, but this is no route. When I climbed it (on TR) I stemmed left at about #5, duh, a full 18" away. The red tape must have fallen off.

The stylistically confused can just climb the obvious link-up "Little John Made Marian," which catches the only good climbing on either Stick at the headwall.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : On the Edge (5.11b)
By: Ray Snead When: Jun 2, 2004

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Comments: This superb route is my favorite in all of the S'Platte. Traversing the lip of the arch is reminicent of Velvet Elvis, but harder, more insecure, and way more run out. Very intimidating. I actually led this pitch with triple nines, feeling, perhaps irrationally, that the more rope available the better if an escape had to be engineered after falling. The 11b pitch seemed trivial after this much pucker.

The routes on either side, El Supremo and Ramblin' Rose, are also stellar.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Daily Grind (5.10b/c)
By: Ray Snead When: Mar 17, 2004

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Comments: The extension is "Caffeine Buzz," which is in the database.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Ray Snead When: Dec 12, 2003

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Comments: We are old guys, but Greg did not redpoint Anarchitect in 1003... it was actually 1993, and I will never forget the sight of Lucky spiralling though the air. Think "Back to the Future," not "Dukes of Hazzard."

BTW, this "side comment" idea seems well-intentioned but wrong...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Gyromancy (5.11a)
By: Ray Snead When: Sep 1, 2003

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Comments: Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket.

This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Mr. Sandman (5.10a)
By: Ray Snead When: Aug 31, 2003

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Comments: Charles, I concur. The move left to the anchors is similar in difficulty to the cruxes on Bolt Cola or That's Weak - the closest thing we have to "reference" 10a's in BoCan.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Cheops (5.10d)
By: Ray Snead When: Jul 26, 2003

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Comments: Is someone saying that additional bolts were added recently?

I did this route in the early '90s and the 3/8" bolts were already in place. At that time it felt well protected for the S'Platte but still a bit spicy at the top.

A very, very good slab climb. The little band of less-than-perfect rock only adds to the charm. Great photo op. I recall that the technical crux seemed to be the first few moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Mr. Sandman (5.10a)
By: Ray Snead When: Jul 20, 2003

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Comments: I first did this route shortly after it had been put up, and thought Bob's grade was right on. It has cleaned up nicely, and I found holds today that I had completely missed in the grit and lichen before. It is easier now, yes, but certainly not 5.9. Sandman is harder than a typical bolted BC 10a, and for that matter, Over the Hill. I'd call it 10a/b, and do be careful getting to the first bolt.

A two star route at a three star crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: Ray Snead When: Jul 13, 2003

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Comments: I apologize for the lack of clarity in my earlier posting. I thought that the sarcastic tone was sufficiently established in the first sentence to carry over to the second.

So I will be clear. I think that Pincushion is noticibly harder than 11a, and believe that the bolt placements were made with an eye toward minimizing the bolt count, not toward making a good 5.11 route. This might be more understandable, but still quite ironic, in the context of this being an approach pitch to a lavishly bo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: Ray Snead When: Jul 12, 2003

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Comments: The grade is about right - if you include a hearty tug on the second and third quick draws, that is. A breath of fresh air for those who are sick and tired of overbolting or soft grading.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Pin Dome : Mine All Mine (5.10a)
By: Ray Snead When: May 19, 2003

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Comments: I climbed this route again yesterday, and was reminded that you might have to hit it just right for it to feel 10a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Nickel Dome : Oversleeping (5.10a)
By: Ray Snead When: May 19, 2003

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Comments: Every single 5.10 on Plotinus Wall is better than this one, so adjust your star system accordingly. Burly, dirty laybacking down low and a single move at the top that is way harder than 10a make the grade a bit suspect also.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Rama (5.11a)
By: Ray Snead When: Apr 11, 2003

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Comments: This is certainly one of those routes which tempts with nearby easier ground, but you are still funneled into a steep section past the last bolt where most aspirants will certainly want to place some gear.

The dicey upper section can easily be avoided by doing the soon-to-be-popular "Rama Dreaming" linkup. Power over the aforementioned section, place a good stopper, then shoot out right to the obvious bolt on Lucid Dreaming - it is maybe 5.9 to the chains, and all bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Chore Boy (5.10b/c)
By: Ray Snead When: Feb 18, 2003

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Comments: The bolt count is actually ten - a single bolt was added (not by the FA party) on the very day that provided that little bit of excitement for Jim.

As for difficulty, the reachy bulge at the 4th bolt or so is certainly harder for shorter climbers, which may explain any controversy.

This is actually a really good route, and much better than it looks.

-R


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Get Shorty (5.10a/b)
By: Ray Snead When: Jan 5, 2003

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Comments: The locker was soothing, as Ivan suggests, and the clip isn't too bad with a draw on it (thanks Greg). Certainly the clip is the crux of the route. Most people connect up with Bolt Cola, but I noticed someone yesterday using Shorty as an indirect start to Where Eagles Dare.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Red Wall aka Raptors in Cel... (5.9+)
By: Ray Snead When: Nov 22, 2002

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Comments: The old name *was* "Raptor in Cellophane" - I remember when PP did it. The name is a layered pun, referencing both bird closures and a popular TV show of the time, "Twin Peaks." Recall the state of Laura Palmer's body...

Pumpy, yes, but it seemed about 10a, at least when the holds stayed on.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Dire Straits (5.10b)
By: Ray Snead When: Oct 31, 2002

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Comments: You'll want gear to protect the second if you do the nutty downwards traverse.


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