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Member Since: Feb 2, 2006
Last Visit: May 2, 2015
Contact Ray Hellinger

Point Rank: # 1,726
Total Points: 378
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 294 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 47 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 208 | Stars | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Unknown Left - AKA: Toilet... (5.9+)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: The route description here, and the comments, makes me think people are not on Left Toilet Crack. Left Toilet crack starts at the same point as Right Toilet Crack (see that route for approach info). It starts as 4th class scrambling to the left of the large trees growing out of a chimney system. You will arrive at a ledge below a deep chimney. The guidebook says to build an anchor here, but you can just keep going and do it as one pitch. Enter the chimney with a finger crack on the left wal... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Right Toilet Bowl Crack (5.9+)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: This climb is much better than it looks from the ground. Highly recommended. Gear recommendation is good here. Don't pay attention to the "optional" 5" piece noted in the guidebook.....you will want it for the P3 OW or you risk a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. I would give this a solid 5.10 rating on P1.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : Lap Dance (5.11-)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: FYI, trundled the scary block at the top of pitch one.

I am curious what people think of the top out of P3. A bolt would be nice. Pretty runnout and sandy. Otherwise, P3 is pretty amazing and fun.

For gear, I took the following BD cams:
1 x 0.3/0.4
3 x 0.5/0.75
6 x 1
2 x 2
2 x 3
1 x 4/5


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Grotto and Base of the Grea... : One for the Road (5.10b/c)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: This is a quality line! The start isn't all that junky, it felt solid. You don't need big gear, there are other placements with smaller stuff. The hand/finger crack is pretty sweet.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Grotto and Base of the Grea... : Edge of Delight (5.10b/c)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: The can be a great climb. The problem with doing it in one pitch is the rope will get caught in a pinch at the roof and creat heinous drag. I don't think it's possible to avoid that. Doing it in 2 pitches would avoid that problem, however, the slung tree is kinda sketch. There are some gear options for anchors, but it would still be a bit awkward. As for the "second pitch" flake, you need at least 2 #5 BDs (I would recommend 3 if you don't want to run it out) and a couple of #4s... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Squeeze Play (5.10a)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Super fun climb! Using just the finger crack up high is a bit contrived in my opinion.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Flip of a Coin (5.10)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: The guidebook gives this an 11-, which I would agree with. The gear I would take is: 2 x #0.4/0.5, 3 or 4 x #0.75/1, 2 x #2and 1 x #3 (these are BD camalots sizes). I even placed a nice #4 early on, but it's not necessary. Overall, I thought this was a really good climb.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Tales of Flails (5.10)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb. Much better than it looks.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : The Fat Hedral (5.10c/d)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree, this is a great climb! Lots of variety in crack size and moves.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Fails of Power (5.11c)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: I'd give this 11+ (never believed in a/b/c/d ratings for trad climbs below 5.12) and that is just to pull the roof and get to the anchors. You will definitely think you are at IC on this one.....oh yeah......except for the 1,000 times better view!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cynthia's Hand Job (5.10)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: Loved this route. The first pitch is much better than it looks from the road. The 2nd pitch is amazing. Take a #4 and #5 camalot for the short o/w section. I took 4x #2s and that seemed ok. FYI, if your partner wants a gear anchor at the base of P2 (it's just a little exposed) then you will need another #4 and #5 camalot.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : Lap Dance (5.11-)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: P1 is one of my favorite pitches in Zion. Love this climb. One of the best routes in the Cragmont area.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : The Gypsy's Curse (5.10)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: The 4th pitch kinda looked like junk. We didn't bother. The 2nd pitch is pretty amazing. Very enduro for its grade. 3 x #3 and #4 camalots we perfect for me (doubles of the rest). The #4s were tight, but worked. Old BD 3.5s would be ideal.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: One of the best climbs I've done. I didn't lead the 3rd pitch, or the monkey finger pitches, but I had to French free a short section of each. The 4th pitch was pretty enduro for me.....and yes, the belay at the top blows. Make some stirrups to stand in or your legs will go numb. Didn't do the last pitch. Didn't seem worth it......and we were beat, ha!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Inner Chi (5.11)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Ok....this was f-ing hard at the top. I'd give it a 11+. Super fun crack, then burly stemming through the upper section. The biggest cam you need is 0.5 camalots. The crack just gets smaller from there.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Gunswinger (5.10)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Super fun. Solid 5.10. Good warm up for Crimson King.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Crimson King (5.11)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: I loved this climb. Reminds me of Indian Creek. The upper section is deceptively hard.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: The block on the first pitch fell out. It is a thin hands splitter in the back of a flare now. Goes at 5.10. Not trying to be a sandbagged, but, this climb is not 5.11. 10+ at the most. If Crimson King and Inner Chi are both 5.11, this climb is only 5.10. Super fun and highly recommended!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Storm King : Northeast Ridge (5.8+ PG13)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: Fun route. Did it in a day from Beartown (FYI, don't get up to Beartown from the Creede side...road is really bad) in 12.5hrs. Finding the trail up Stormy Gulch in the dark is hard, even after having been there before. The climb was mostly 4th and lower 5th with a few pitches of 5.6 and 5.8 thrown in. My partner was much shorter than me and was afraid to make the airy step from the tower back to the wall, so, I put in an anchor and lowered her. Anchor should still be there. The route goes ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Northern San Juans : Lizard Head
By: Ray Hellinger When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Rope soloed this one a few yrs ago after my partner bailed a few hundred feet from the start of the climb. He blamed the altitude, but I think it was lack of courage, haha. First pitch was VERY fun and solid. The 3rd class, scree scramble what the scariest part. I the 5.7, ledges variation to the summit was pretty easy to climb and downclimb. After looking at the anchors on the summit, I think I would have downclimbed even with a rope (I left it fixed at the first pitch).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Mount Sneffels : North Buttress (5.6)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Love this route. Have done it a couple of times. First time I ever attempted it, in mid July, I got caught in a major ice storm that covered the peak in and inch of ice. Had to downclimb 5.6 terrain. Was scary as hell!! Every other time, had perfect weather.....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Arrow Peak : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Did this route a coupld of weeks ago. You can easily make it harder (5.7/8) by picking specific lines. Great route tho on perfect rock. I think a solo of this route, Wham Ridge direct line and NF of W Trinity in a day would be the perfect trifecta.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Did this climb last summer and it was a lot of fun. Good pro and solid rock. Pretty much the same route as the one pitured on the page, but, for the 1st pitch, we took the left side. It was definitely around 5.8. Wouldn't really give it an R rating though.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Jagged Mountain
By: Ray Hellinger When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Did Jagged car-to-car from Vallecito via Leviathan Cr. 13.5hrs round trip. Long day. The trail up Leviathan is actually really good for about 2/3 of the way to the lake. Then it peeters out.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : West Trinity Peak : North Face of West Trinity ... (Easy 5th)
By: Ray Hellinger When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: I liked this route. Gets away from the crowds on Wham (ok...like there are crowds in the Grenadiers...) and is very similar climbing. Getting through the cliffbands is fun and interesting. No rope needed if you are an experienced climber, but, it will be an X rating at that point.


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