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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : The Great Escape (5.11c)
By: Ranger Matt When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Use some longer draws on the last few bolts on pitch 3 (or 2 depend on how you're counting).
A little too much drag on the last moves without them.
I think pitch 1 and 2 combined is one of the best face pitches right off the ground in the valley.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Tangerine Trip (5.9 A3+)
By: Ranger Matt When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.
We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: Ranger Matt When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: First moves on the first pitch were the most heady for me. Some delicate face climbing with only a small came behind a suspect flake to keep you from the ankle breaking fall.
Route gets sun around 1pm (in August). So a late start isnt a bad idea.
Two thumbs way up!! Love the name of this route, needless to say we honored the name at every belay.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Pringles (5.11c PG13)
By: Ranger Matt When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun, one of the best single pitch face climbs I've done in the Park.
Definitely not PG13. Very well bolted.
Seems like a tree which was growing right next to the wall died and fell over, opening up room for this great line. Thanks nature, RIP tree.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : New Wave (5.11d)
By: Ranger Matt When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a variation to the left (slightly easier), which stems up off the large rock in front of the wall. This avoids the brutal, thin crux down low by going straight up to the roof and travering to the right. There is a different bolt for this vartiation but is of suspect quality.
I found this to be more fun than the tweaky direct line.
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